Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE
- Thread starter rlrenz
- Start date
rlrenz
Explorer
I'm gradually coming back to life, and getting back into the ambulance projects. I can't climb a ladder yet, but I have a garage-full of projects to keep me entertained. Today, I figured out what material I'd need to convert my Onan 4 KW generator to propane. I was able to find the ONAN propane solenoid valve and demand regulator on EBAY, but my parts book showed some internal brackets that I would either need to track down, or duplicate. The ONAN parts book has nice drawings, but not a photo anywhere.
Just for laughs and giggles, I jotted down the ONAN part numbers for the brackets and stopped off at the ONAN parts warehouse here in MSP - I even brought my camera and a tape measure in case they had a generator on display or in the shop that I could look at. Nope. No used generators, and the parts folks told me that none of the brackets were in stock (since they aren't a consumable part). They could order them from the factory, though. The cost for the three brackets totaled to more than $200, so I passed on ordering them. I can make whatever I need if necessary, but knowing some mounting locations and dimensions would help.
On to PLAN-B. Time to start checking with RV dealers and generator repair shops looking for a take-out generator that I can buy some parts from.
In other news, Weldon Company makes a LED reading lamp intended for commercial / emergency vehicle applications. The Weldon 8250 lamp is very nicely made, swivels, and has a decent switch. It makes the RV light fixtures I'd been thinking about look like junk. The price is decent as well -
About the cheapest source I've found is Emergency Responder Products (http://www.emergencyresponderproducts.com/82ledswrela.html) for $16.95. It is designed to be plugged into a vehicle harness using a $12.60 plug assembly (part number 0K90-3187-00), but this could be replaced with soldered leads and some heat shrink. I have a couple on order now.
Just for laughs and giggles, I jotted down the ONAN part numbers for the brackets and stopped off at the ONAN parts warehouse here in MSP - I even brought my camera and a tape measure in case they had a generator on display or in the shop that I could look at. Nope. No used generators, and the parts folks told me that none of the brackets were in stock (since they aren't a consumable part). They could order them from the factory, though. The cost for the three brackets totaled to more than $200, so I passed on ordering them. I can make whatever I need if necessary, but knowing some mounting locations and dimensions would help.
On to PLAN-B. Time to start checking with RV dealers and generator repair shops looking for a take-out generator that I can buy some parts from.
In other news, Weldon Company makes a LED reading lamp intended for commercial / emergency vehicle applications. The Weldon 8250 lamp is very nicely made, swivels, and has a decent switch. It makes the RV light fixtures I'd been thinking about look like junk. The price is decent as well -
About the cheapest source I've found is Emergency Responder Products (http://www.emergencyresponderproducts.com/82ledswrela.html) for $16.95. It is designed to be plugged into a vehicle harness using a $12.60 plug assembly (part number 0K90-3187-00), but this could be replaced with soldered leads and some heat shrink. I have a couple on order now.
rlrenz
Explorer
Finally close enough to spring so I can get back to work on the beast. Last fall, I noticed that the most I could charge my batteries to was about 12.4 volts (equal to about a 75% charge). I figure that sometime after the batteries were installed, the truck sat long enough for the batteries to significantly discharge, which kills batteries. I treated myself to four new Group 31 batteries this morning - I'll install them after I get the new IOTA charger finished.
Since I want to keep the existing Vanner inverter/charger for its value as an inverter, I had to disable its built-in charger. This charger is only a 3-step charger, and is not the best choice for a charger that will always be plugged in. I wanted to disable the charger, but I also wanted to have it available in case of emergency need.
Vanner told me which wire had to be disconnected to disable the charger, but I decided to add a switch to the wire so I could enable it if necessary. The wire that has to be disconnected is the blue one in the front of the photo. If you just want to disable the charger, the wire must be unplugged from the circuit board and the connector insulated with some heat shrink since the wire is normally live.
I wanted an all-position switch since the Vanner hangs upside down in my application, and I wanted to install the switch right-side up (looks better!), so I wound up using a spare push-pull circuit breaker from my collection -- in=on, out=off. The end result does what I need perfectly.
Next step: adding a tap to the existing #2 Vanner battery cables for my IOTA charger.
Since I want to keep the existing Vanner inverter/charger for its value as an inverter, I had to disable its built-in charger. This charger is only a 3-step charger, and is not the best choice for a charger that will always be plugged in. I wanted to disable the charger, but I also wanted to have it available in case of emergency need.
Vanner told me which wire had to be disconnected to disable the charger, but I decided to add a switch to the wire so I could enable it if necessary. The wire that has to be disconnected is the blue one in the front of the photo. If you just want to disable the charger, the wire must be unplugged from the circuit board and the connector insulated with some heat shrink since the wire is normally live.
I wanted an all-position switch since the Vanner hangs upside down in my application, and I wanted to install the switch right-side up (looks better!), so I wound up using a spare push-pull circuit breaker from my collection -- in=on, out=off. The end result does what I need perfectly.
Next step: adding a tap to the existing #2 Vanner battery cables for my IOTA charger.
rlrenz
Explorer
Thanks - it works very nicely. I'm going to add a stub "extension" cord with an Anderson connector on each end, and a 3/8" terminal stud in the middle to the Vanner DC cable. That way, I can easily add the 75 amp battery charger, the Echo-Charger, and probably a switchable digital battery voltage meter with a momentary pushbutton and a rotary selector switch so I can easily check the main truck batteries, the deep cycle (refrigerator) battery, and the ONAN start battery. The digital meter came from Amazon for less than $10, and the rotary switch and the momentary switch are in my parts box.
rlrenz
Explorer
I've been making slow and occasionally steady progress on the ambulance's 12 volt battery charging system. After I learned that the Vanner inverter/charger only tapered to a low charge rate, but never totally shut down, I decided to install an IOTA 4-stage battery charger, plus a Xantrex Echo-Charger for the deep cycle battery. Then, I decided to also add a digital meter so I could monitor the ambulance batteries, the deep cycle battery, and the ONAN starting battery. After I closed off the old O2 monitoring port with 1/8" aluminum, the entire package was mounted on 1/8" aluminum that was in turn mounted on unistrut. Since I could only mount the Unistrut with self-tapping 10-32 screws, I used one screw per Unistrut mounting hole. The wiring was done with marine 105C-rated cable for flexibility.
The terminals were crimped with my hydraulic crimper
The monitoring panel - made from a MIL surplus rotary switch, a MIL momentary SPST switch, and an Amazon digital meter. Once I get caught up on a few other things, I'll add photo-decal labels to the panel
The terminals were crimped with my hydraulic crimper
The monitoring panel - made from a MIL surplus rotary switch, a MIL momentary SPST switch, and an Amazon digital meter. Once I get caught up on a few other things, I'll add photo-decal labels to the panel
patoz
Expedition Leader
Man, it's doesn't get much more professional looking than that!!
A couple of questions...
1. If I understand correctly, the IOTA is primarily for the vehicle starting batteries, and the Echo~charge is for the house battery and generator battery, is that right?
2. Is that a 12 VDC PWR outlet mounted in the lower lefthand corner under the IOTA?
3. Is that a fusible link a the top where the IOTA's red power lead is connected?
4. I see the cooling fan on the IOTA, so I'm wondering how much heat it puts out? If I were to use this same charger, I would like to mount it inside the module, between my electrical panels and deep cycle house batteries (remember, no vehicle starting batteries). Being in Florida, anything that produces heat in a passenger area is a concern during the summertime.
I can't wait until I get to this stage, which I consider the fun part, but I've still got a lot of 'grunt' stuff to do to the outside first.
A couple of questions...
1. If I understand correctly, the IOTA is primarily for the vehicle starting batteries, and the Echo~charge is for the house battery and generator battery, is that right?
2. Is that a 12 VDC PWR outlet mounted in the lower lefthand corner under the IOTA?
3. Is that a fusible link a the top where the IOTA's red power lead is connected?
4. I see the cooling fan on the IOTA, so I'm wondering how much heat it puts out? If I were to use this same charger, I would like to mount it inside the module, between my electrical panels and deep cycle house batteries (remember, no vehicle starting batteries). Being in Florida, anything that produces heat in a passenger area is a concern during the summertime.
I can't wait until I get to this stage, which I consider the fun part, but I've still got a lot of 'grunt' stuff to do to the outside first.
The IOTA charges the vehicle batteries, and the Echo-charger is connected to the battery-IOTA junction. The deep cycle battery is thus charged by either the vehicle alternator, or by the IOTA when parked and plugged in. Yes, I added a 12 volt receptacle using a HD Hubbell bakelite box I had lying around. I added a 75 amp fuse to the junction point - a Blue Sea product. I expect some heat, but the IOTA's efficiency should be high enough to minimize heating - the Vanner chgr/inverter also has a fan, plus the cabinet also is also connected to the vehicle AC system. I'lol know more once I have it under load and I can do some measurements.
patoz
Expedition Leader
Thanks, I guess I was pretty close then.
One more question...would the Echo-charger be suitable for charging the smaller sealed lead acid battery in my Honda generator, and the even smaller sealed lead acid backup battery for the electrics brakes, or is it too high of an output?
One more question...would the Echo-charger be suitable for charging the smaller sealed lead acid battery in my Honda generator, and the even smaller sealed lead acid backup battery for the electrics brakes, or is it too high of an output?
rlrenz
Explorer
I have an Onan Micro-Quiet 4000 watt generator in my collection. Right now, it is set up for gasoline, and works perfectly. I tossed the idea of turning it into a propane generator for several months, and I finally decided to leave it as gasoline. Gasoline is available 24x7, it's available in more places than propane, it can be operated while on the road, and no tunnel restrictions on gasoline. I'm going to install everything in a 42x48" side cabinet - there's room for the generator, the starting battery, and fuel. Fuel will be stored in a Johnson outboard tank, with spare carried in several 5 gallon MIL fuel cans. The Onan is designed for up to 3 PSI of incoming fuel pressure, so I don't see any problems with siphoning.