rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Thanks, Bob, for sharing this. I've downloaded it to print and keep handy.
Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE
- Thread starter rlrenz
- Start date
Thanks, Bob, for sharing this. I've downloaded it to print and keep handy.
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
That page will definitely be helpful. I pulled my dash apart last week to clean the evaporator and make sure I was not losing flow anywhere. Not sure these systems are ever going to be great. Airflow is an issue with the design of the fan/evap.
And since the compressor looks to have a clutch failure I will be investigating changing to a rotary compressor. But at a minimum it will have a new compressor, dryer and tx valve.
Also it looks like a small cabin filter can be fitted on the return air (behind the fuse panel).
And since the compressor looks to have a clutch failure I will be investigating changing to a rotary compressor. But at a minimum it will have a new compressor, dryer and tx valve.
Also it looks like a small cabin filter can be fitted on the return air (behind the fuse panel).
rlrenz
Explorer
Take a good look at the foam that's used to seal between the center of the dash outlets and the heater/AC discharge. If this gets distorted, air won't flow as readily out the center ports. I wound up regluing some of mine, and adding some more self-adhesive foam from HD.
If the foam isn't there, the discharge will go everywhere, except towards you.
If the foam isn't there, the discharge will go everywhere, except towards you.
rlrenz
Explorer
By the way - when I first bought the buggy, I found a complete paper set of Freightliner service manuals for medium trucks, FL50, FL60, etc on ebay - they became part of my collection. If there is anything that anyone needs from the service manuals, let me know, and if I have it, and if I can find it, I'll gladly copy it for you.
rlrenz
Explorer
Question of the day:
My ambulance front brake pads tend to glaze, probably because the original pads were spec'd for emergency vehicle duty. In reality, I should probably be using pads that would be about right for an RV. Anybody got any suggestions?
I got stuck driving about 25 miles through rush hour stop and go traffic - the kind where you accelerate, then stop. Not suddenly, but the snake expands and contracts near stoplights. And on and on for virtually all of the 25 miles. The worst kind of braking you can find -- plenty of heating, but no time for things to cool off. It was also 95+ degrees with high humidity. Without a doubt, a worst care scenario.
In other news - When I picked up the buggy in PHL, The check engine light never came on for the entire trip home. Last year, it came on randomly. Even though mechanics told me to ignore it, I chased the ghost all summer, with nothing ever being found.
This, year, I realized that the AC charge was low, so I topped it off. Now, no check engine light (yes, the bulb is good). Either a loose connection tightened itself over the winter, or low Freon can trigger the check engine light. It would make sense for an ambulance to have a low Freon sensor. How many hours and dollars could I have avoided.....
My ambulance front brake pads tend to glaze, probably because the original pads were spec'd for emergency vehicle duty. In reality, I should probably be using pads that would be about right for an RV. Anybody got any suggestions?
I got stuck driving about 25 miles through rush hour stop and go traffic - the kind where you accelerate, then stop. Not suddenly, but the snake expands and contracts near stoplights. And on and on for virtually all of the 25 miles. The worst kind of braking you can find -- plenty of heating, but no time for things to cool off. It was also 95+ degrees with high humidity. Without a doubt, a worst care scenario.
In other news - When I picked up the buggy in PHL, The check engine light never came on for the entire trip home. Last year, it came on randomly. Even though mechanics told me to ignore it, I chased the ghost all summer, with nothing ever being found.
This, year, I realized that the AC charge was low, so I topped it off. Now, no check engine light (yes, the bulb is good). Either a loose connection tightened itself over the winter, or low Freon can trigger the check engine light. It would make sense for an ambulance to have a low Freon sensor. How many hours and dollars could I have avoided.....
rlrenz
Explorer
I've been asked for more information about the drawer and cabinet latches that were used by Medic Master - they're probably also common on other ambulances as well. They would also work nicely in any application where a cabinet or drawer has to be held closed during shock and vibration. The latches are a Southco C5 latch. They are designed to fit through a 3/4" panel using a simple router-cut hole. They have a rear clamp bar that accommodates variations in panel thickness. If you run into any with a lock, the lock's key is probably the same on every C5 latch ever made. Here are some photos to clarify them:
On the latch clamp bar, style 2 is normally used with a 3/4" panel thickness
On the latch clamp bar, style 2 is normally used with a 3/4" panel thickness
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Thanks Bob. Those are exactly what we have, as you probably guessed. Fortunately we aren't missing any and none of them are broken. They're pretty impressively sturdy... like everything else on these rigs. But, it's nice to have the information in case we need to get a replacement or add more drawers. That's very much a possibility.
rlrenz
Explorer
Let me know if you need a key for the latches - I have a few spares.
rlrenz
Explorer
I decided to buy a set of wheel centering guides from Amazon. They showed up today, and I found that they wouldn't fit through my Alcoa wheels. One more instance of Amazon's incomplete descriptions causing problems.
If anyone wants to order a set, they are for a 22mm stud, and the minimum wheel hole has to be at least 26.5mm (my wheel holes measured 24.5mm). They can be fund at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BHRKYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If anyone wants to order a set, they are for a 22mm stud, and the minimum wheel hole has to be at least 26.5mm (my wheel holes measured 24.5mm). They can be fund at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BHRKYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
patoz
Expedition Leader
Dang Bob, I hate it when that happens!
One of my biggest pet peeves with Amazon is when they list the size of the box or package the product comes in, instead of the actual product. If I need to know if a product will fit a specific application, I could care less what size the box is.
One of my biggest pet peeves with Amazon is when they list the size of the box or package the product comes in, instead of the actual product. If I need to know if a product will fit a specific application, I could care less what size the box is.
rlrenz
Explorer
I agree!
I don't give a hoot what the box measures - I want to know about the tool that I'm buying. The other challenge is tracking down the actual supplier's web site - in many cases, there are multiple suppliers with very similar names. Even if you do find the web site, matching their listing to Amazon's listing can also be challenging.
Amazon will (maybe?) someday figure out that they need to really take a close look at the descriptions - otherwise, parts will come back as fast as they go out. How many times do we have to read their reviews to figure out the actual dimensions of a product?
I don't give a hoot what the box measures - I want to know about the tool that I'm buying. The other challenge is tracking down the actual supplier's web site - in many cases, there are multiple suppliers with very similar names. Even if you do find the web site, matching their listing to Amazon's listing can also be challenging.
Amazon will (maybe?) someday figure out that they need to really take a close look at the descriptions - otherwise, parts will come back as fast as they go out. How many times do we have to read their reviews to figure out the actual dimensions of a product?
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Thanks Bob, but none of ours lock. Much appreciated, though!
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Thanks for the AC info Bob. I found that I didn't add enough gas (difference between 800 and 1500 RPM). Saved me replacing the compressor, dryer and Tx valve. My vent temps are OK now but the airflow is low. Just ordered an anemometer just to see how bad it is and will try to find one to compare it to.
Anyway mate. Once again thanks for sharing the info that save me a bunch of time and money.
Anyway mate. Once again thanks for sharing the info that save me a bunch of time and money.
rlrenz
Explorer
Hey - that's why we're here -- we learn from each other.
If you have a Freightliner, don't plan on a high velocity air flow from the dash grill. Every one I've ever seen blows like there should be one more speed than it has. Mine cools the cab, and I can always feel cool air from the grill, but the cab doesn't refrigerate like the module does. Better cab insulation might help, but that large windshield definitely is a hole in the insulation.
Be sure that the foam spacer/gasket to the dash center grill is in good shape - if not, you can stack some pieces of Home Depot self adhesive weather striping to make up the difference. Also, set the dash dampers to blow through the grill and not down to the floor or to the windshield. The foam attaches to the grill, and not to the dash structure.
If you have a walk through, then run the AC in the module as well - in my own case, I can feel the difference in the cab.
If you have a Freightliner, don't plan on a high velocity air flow from the dash grill. Every one I've ever seen blows like there should be one more speed than it has. Mine cools the cab, and I can always feel cool air from the grill, but the cab doesn't refrigerate like the module does. Better cab insulation might help, but that large windshield definitely is a hole in the insulation.
Be sure that the foam spacer/gasket to the dash center grill is in good shape - if not, you can stack some pieces of Home Depot self adhesive weather striping to make up the difference. Also, set the dash dampers to blow through the grill and not down to the floor or to the windshield. The foam attaches to the grill, and not to the dash structure.
If you have a walk through, then run the AC in the module as well - in my own case, I can feel the difference in the cab.