NEPolarbear
Observer
Excellent points concerning the fridge and the DMV.
Wasn't even thinking about registration with the DMV.
Wasn't even thinking about registration with the DMV.
Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE
- Thread starter rlrenz
- Start date
rlrenz
Explorer
Getting registered as an RV is nice - because you're no longer a "commercial vehicle", so a NO TRUCKS PERMITTED sign doesn't affect you any more, and a scale that calls for trucks and commercial vehicles to stop also becomes a drive by - but you still gotta stop when the sign says ALL VEHICLES OVER 10,000 (+/-) LBS MUST STOP.
Here in MN, a RV license plate is also weight dependent, and there isn't much difference between the LP fees for a 20,000 Lb RV, and a 20,000 Lb commercial vehicle -- but I'm still going to register as an RV.
rlrenz
Explorer
RE: refrigerators:
Thanks for the suggestion, but you're about 10 hours too late. I ordered a fridge this morning.
I have been trying to figure out which to buy since I bought the ambulance, and I'm kinda thinking that it all becomes a Ford-Chevy-Dodge question. There are folks who swear by, and folks who swear at, each of them. The LP gas question was answered when I learned that an LP fueled refrig needs to be level, or it's performance becomes pitiful (and I don't want to go through the PITA of leveling perfectly just so the refrig is happy). RV dealers only handle LP fueled refrigerators, so I needed to find a marine dealer who had them on the floor - but no dealer I found had one on display. I wanted to poke one with my finger and see what they were like. After seeing how flimsy the RV units were, I was leaning away from Dometic and Norcold since both were big in RV refrigerators, and the same design standards might also be used for marine units. I wound up buying an Intertherm through West Marine - I can check it out when it is delivered to the showroom, and I can walk away if I don't like it. I don't want the PITA of trying to ship a refrig back to a dealer, so this became the best alternative. Even Amazon's selection didn't give me a warm fuzzy.
Intertherm is definitely not a low bid item, but since it's designed to operate in sailboats out on the open ocean, I figure it should have a decent chance of surviving in my ambulance.
I'll add photos to the thread as soon as I have it available.
Thanks for the suggestion, but you're about 10 hours too late. I ordered a fridge this morning.
I have been trying to figure out which to buy since I bought the ambulance, and I'm kinda thinking that it all becomes a Ford-Chevy-Dodge question. There are folks who swear by, and folks who swear at, each of them. The LP gas question was answered when I learned that an LP fueled refrig needs to be level, or it's performance becomes pitiful (and I don't want to go through the PITA of leveling perfectly just so the refrig is happy). RV dealers only handle LP fueled refrigerators, so I needed to find a marine dealer who had them on the floor - but no dealer I found had one on display. I wanted to poke one with my finger and see what they were like. After seeing how flimsy the RV units were, I was leaning away from Dometic and Norcold since both were big in RV refrigerators, and the same design standards might also be used for marine units. I wound up buying an Intertherm through West Marine - I can check it out when it is delivered to the showroom, and I can walk away if I don't like it. I don't want the PITA of trying to ship a refrig back to a dealer, so this became the best alternative. Even Amazon's selection didn't give me a warm fuzzy.
Intertherm is definitely not a low bid item, but since it's designed to operate in sailboats out on the open ocean, I figure it should have a decent chance of surviving in my ambulance.
I'll add photos to the thread as soon as I have it available.
No problem, man. I looked up the Intertherm unit; looks solid. I too would rather have an all-electric compressor-type fridge, as they are far more efficient than 3-way fridges in electric mode. Plus, compressor-types use so little juice that a solar panel setup can easily keep up with it, and still charge the batteries enough to keep it going at night. Electric IS the way to go in my book. Not cheap, but I would bet it lasts longer than an RV type, so money well-spent! Looking forward to seeing more of your rig, as you are able.
rlrenz
Explorer
Intertherm isn't a bargain-basement unit, but for all the work to install one in an ambulance in the first place and the PITA if a bottom-bid wonder poops out and has to be replaced, it makes sense to me. My plan is for a deep cycle battery charged from the truck's 270 amp alternator via a 15 amp Xantrex Echo-Charge unit. Considering that an Intertherm only uses about 2.5 amps, keeping it happy shouldn't be a problem, plus a solar panel is also being thought about.
The Xantrex Echo Charge simplifies things a whole lot - I only have to plan on heavy enough wire to handle a 15 amp load to charge the deep cycle battery - Xantrex recommends 12 Ga for my cable length. The Intertherm is also smart enough to shut down if battery voltage drops as well.
patoz
Expedition Leader
My situation also. I don't mind spending a little extra for the good stuff and installing it right, but I only want to do it once! Looking forward to seeing what you get, the installation, and how well it works.
rlrenz
Explorer
I think you mean Isotherm?
OOPS--- a glitch in my mental capabilities. It is definitely a great day for a coffee - rainy, gloomy, a brisk north breeze, a big pot of chili, a fireplace, etc.
rlrenz
Explorer
The idea of having running cold AND hot water is often appealing. I thought about an RV heater, except RV heaters are propane, plus I have to cut holes in the side of the buggy. Whilst perusing the refrigerator catalog, I saw that Isotherm also makes water heaters for boats (the Isotemp) - and they have a rectangular 4.2 gallon capacity, 115 volt, 750 watt version available. The dealer is Isotherm-Parts -- http://www.isotherm-parts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_34_57, and the cost is $ 780. The heater measures 7 1/4" wide, 15 3/4" high, and 23 1/4" deep -- A perfect size for this kind of conversion.
I like the rectangular construction, and the wattage - just not the price: $ 780.
The cost becomes a bit lower if a cylindrical, 11 gallon heater can be used - $ 496. It has the same heater element.
I may wind up looking for a used conventional marine heater and grafting in a smaller element - all I'll save is the housing and the insulation. Time to do some pondering.
I like the rectangular construction, and the wattage - just not the price: $ 780.
The cost becomes a bit lower if a cylindrical, 11 gallon heater can be used - $ 496. It has the same heater element.
I may wind up looking for a used conventional marine heater and grafting in a smaller element - all I'll save is the housing and the insulation. Time to do some pondering.
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ben2go
Adventurer
Get the model number and keep an eye on ebay and amazon.Those units go on sale a few times a year there and are nearly half that price.I am planning on installing that 11 gallon unit in my boat.
rlrenz
Explorer
My sketch only shows the 120 volt portion of the system - since a solar panel would supply 12 volts, it would connect directly to the separate 12 volt deep cycle battery that will be added for the refrigerator and some LED lights. I'll add a sketch of the 12 volt system later.
The Vanner inverter is rated at 1050 watts (9 amps) output, but it has a 130 amp 12 volt fuse on its input - I don't plan to add a solar panel to that portion of the system, but I am thinking about a Solargizer to keep the batteries topped off.
rlrenz
Explorer
I hadn't thought of E BAY for something as oddball as this - but I'll keep my eyes open (plus a search for ISOTEMP should be pretty straightforward). Thanks for the idea!