Buying & Building a Medium Ambulance into an RV – The FAM-BULANCE

r_w

Adventurer
West marine (and I suppose a few others) sell 30 and 50 amp manual selector switches that are really nice.

I am still contemplating 2 or 3 way--As you have pictured but with a grid-tie inverter tied to the panel (to get surge capability to start a normal AC) or a 3 way with the inverter as the third input. I don't think I can afford the fancy automatic switch/charger/controller/inverter at this point.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
West marine (and I suppose a few others) sell 30 and 50 amp manual selector switches that are really nice.

I am still contemplating 2 or 3 way--As you have pictured but with a grid-tie inverter tied to the panel (to get surge capability to start a normal AC) or a 3 way with the inverter as the third input. I don't think I can afford the fancy automatic switch/charger/controller/inverter at this point.

West Marine sells Blue Sea electrical gear, which is what I am using. Many ambulance electricians also use Blue Sea since it is a high quality product. All my components are Blue Sea- and the selector switch is a Blue Sea #8359 2 position plus OFF. They also offer a 3 position plus OFF as well.

Google Blue Sea Systems - the switch itself is under SWITCHES, and the panel version is under 120 VAC PANELS.

My first plan was to use my Vanner inverter as a third input, but the output is not nearly enough to run the rest of the panel -- AC, microwave, blowers, etc, so I will just leave the inverter connected to a few receptacles that will be a different color. My wife sews, so I'll be sure to leave a receptacle close to where she would set up her sewing machine. If I can find a microwave with less than a 1050 watt power requirement - probably 600 - 700 watts output - then the microwave can also live on the inverter.

The advantage to an ambulance inverter (usually a Vanner) is that they pass-through AC power when it is available, so when the ambulance is running from ground power, or from the generator, the inverter will no longer be a limiting factor.
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
Dumb me! Totally forgot that solar is 12 volt! But I like how your going to use solar in sort of a dedicated system for the fridge and some LED lights, as electric-only fridges are actually very energy-efficient, and we all know how miserly LEDs are. I'm going to follow this closely! I would eventually like to see how both the 12VDC and 120VAC systems tie together to whatever extent they do via inverter(s). This is gettin' GOOD!
 

rlrenz

Explorer
just curious, why not an automatic switch? is it just the price?

I'm a very firm believer in Murphy's Law and KISS as well. I could easily build an automatic system, but a manual switch will do the job just fine, and I can tell at a glance what's happening. The more sophisticated the system, the more complicated the problems can be.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
While I'm waiting for my marine refrigerator to show up, I spent today fiddling with the ambulance. I installed the new gas springs for the cabinets (about 30 seconds for each one), I found out why the module hot water heat didn't come on (I'd turned the thermostat too far, probably to a 150F set point, and it defaulted to OFF), and I found out that one oddball drawer's slides were totally worn out. The drawer has an 8" slide, but it's only 3/8" thick, which means that was a special way back in time when it was built. I can get 10" slides that are 3/8" thick, but not 8" slides. I can get 8" slides that are 1/2" thick. After digging through every source I could figure out, and trying my always-reliable ambulance parts suppliers, I gave up and ordered a 1/2" thick slide. I'll dado a recess in the side of the drawer to handle the extra slide thickness. The good news is that I'll have a new slide that is probably heavier duty than what I had.

Getting the beast into the garage for the winter is also quickly getting more feasible - my S250 military shelter sold today, plus he also took the shelter air conditioner, 2 extra floor jacks and a parts washer - all of which took space. I also finally figured out a solution to storing the ambulance parts while I'm in the build-mode: store them in the ambulance! Even though there are some cabinets I'll be modifying, there are also plenty of cabinets that I'll be leaving exactly as they are. I started loading it today, using a marking pen to label the boxes as they went in. For those of you familiar with ambulance design, the parts are going into cabinet 5 (FYI: the cabinets are numbered from the driver's side, counter-clockwise, so cabinet 5 is the one closest to the passenger's front seat. One shelf is electrical, one is plumbing, etc.

I plan to make a pilgrimage next week to check out a local ambulance dealer who regularly adds 120 volt air conditioning to ambulances. I want to see what he recommends and what the costs for the components look like. The first option would be to install a combined system, where the same blower, ducting, condenser, and controls handle a 120 volt addition. I could also go with a separated system with a totally separate evaporator and condenser. The compressor for either system would be installed in the top of the oxygen cabinet next to the Vanner inverter, and a new front-of-module condenser would be added to just handle the 120 volt portion. I'm sticking with 134 refrigerant to stay consistent with the rest of the ambulance.

Once I know enough about add-on air conditioning's installation needs and power requirements, I can start installing the new 120 VAC panel and equipment.

I'm also going to see what they would charge me for a Corian / Avonite work area (action station). I'm debating between one of the solid surface materials or stainless steel for the countertop. I prefer solid surface unless prices get too extreme, but the kitchen counter top folks don't have a clue about ambulances. I'll see if the dealer can shoot me a price that I can live with.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
I finally got around to downloading some photos from the camera, plus the new refrigerator came in today. The refrig was a pricey little bugger, but it is very solidly built, and should long outlast me - it's an Isotherm, a European brand. It commonly shows up in sailboats in Europe and Australia, and is designed to operate at up to 30 degrees from vertical.

The source selector switch - it should be very easy to figure out for just about anyone.
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Rear view:
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The main breakers that will be used for both shore power and generator output. They'll be side by side so there will be a logical progression through the system: Two main breakers (pick one) - a selector switch (pick power source) - a breaker panel (turn on circuit)
DSCN4644.jpg

The Isotherm CR65 refrigerator
DSCN4649.jpg

DSCN4650.jpg

DSCN4647.jpg

The fan-cooled condenser, and it is REALLY quiet!
DSCN4648.jpg

Complete with a very small ice cube tray
DSCN4651.jpg
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
Looks like the selector switch has slots for power level gauges. Do they come w/ the switch, or supplied separately? Fridge looks good; ought to do a good job! Always liked electric compressor types to absorption types; you can't always be level enough for the latter.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Man, you're getting all the nice toys!

I'm planning on using all Blue Sea components in my system also. It also looks like you're headed in the same direction I'm planning as far as logical progression and A/C on one side, and D/C on the other side of the panel. Since my shore power and generator are on the driver's side, A/C will be on the left side of the panel, and my batteries are on the passenger side, so D/C will be on the right side of the panel.


Looks like the selector switch has slots for power level gauges. Do they come w/ the switch, or supplied separately? Fridge looks good; ought to do a good job! Always liked electric compressor types to absorption types; you can't always be level enough for the latter.

I believe those slots are for backlit 'Panel Labels' similar to the one in the center that says 'A/C Power'. They can be ordered by the sheet or custom ordered.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Labels/Large_Labels
 

rlrenz

Explorer
The slots are for labels. A small set comes with the switch and with the circuit breakers - I found what I needed in the furnished sets: SHORE & GENERATOR. They are back-lit on the distribution panels, but not on the main breakers and on the selector switch.

Blue Sea is far from cheap, but I like to only do a job as nicely as I can. Marine circuit breaker panels are regularly used in emergency vehicles - Blue Sea and Paneltronics are probably the most common.

Before I retired, I used to design and test military equipment - it can be seen in what I design and build...
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Regarding my earlier comment about the quality / durability of standard off-the-shelf RV equipment, a friend of mine who is an ambulance electrician replied:

"It's a shame isn't it. The RV stuff I shop from time to time looks the same as the novelty stuff from the 70's."

I never thought about it that way, but he's 100% right. All the stuff you could buy to "dress up" your car back then was all flash, and would sometimes be thrown directly into the trash can when the package was opened - the kind of stuff that you'd see at a garage sale (unopened), or at a flea market (also unopened).
 

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