BX M101 lid & tent mods

[BajaXplorer]

One question for ya:
Can you still access the contents of the trailer when the tent is open?

Access is easy with tent up as it was set up to open to to the opposite side.
Included pix of tiedowns used to remove stress to hinges and lid when offroading, and pix of quad cover from Harbor Freight used to protect trailer in my backyard. You can also see the bungies used on tent cover to prevent flapping at highway speeds to prevent tearing, I hope.
BX

 

[RunninRubicon]

Nice M101!

Very nice job! I have a friend who will really like to see these pictures. He is waiting for his M101 to arrive in Phx hopefully by the 29th. We will use your examples to build off of. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Steve Curren]

Indeed a most well thought out trailer, I sure hope that my friend will duplicate some of your great ideas. Is the trailer pretty much sealed or does the bed need any special sealing? How about the lighting, were you able to use any existing wires and what type of connestor was there if any?
Thanks,
Steve

 

[Sonofmax]

Help!!!!

I just recently purchased an M101 1.5 ton trailer off military base in Hooks, Tx. I planned to convert it to an off-roader. It was recently recondiotioned by the military and was B rated. I went to pick it up and it was too large(weight/tires) for my 4Runner. I left it at a trailer shop in Texarkana to change out axle and tires so I could transport back to Santa Fe, NM. The trailer shop is a couple of good ol boys who are clueless and haven't even looked at it for 2 wks. I need help in either instructing them, or better, the name of someone in the area(200miles?) who can finish, or better yet start , the work. Thanks in advance. Dean

 

[BajaXplorer]

M101 Lid Build

In response to a PM about the lid build, I am posting the info here in case someone else is curious.

The top rim of the M101 trailer is made from square 1"x1" tubing, so the square 1"x1" tubing I used for the lid frame sits level on it. The frame is made from two 1"x1"x6' (sides) and five 1"x1"x4' square tubing (crossribs) bought at Home Depot for about $120. Had to trim about 2" off the three middle 4' rib pieces before welding it all together. Clamped the pieces down on the trailer rim and tacked them together for welding.
The top material is cut from a 4'x8' sheet of cold rolled steel 16 gage. It was $65 plus $20 for the cutting to size at local metal yard.
Used 1"x3/16" rubber gasket (Ace) with adhesive on one side attached to the lid to seal out dust and water. While the lid's weight has really compressed the gasket, so far no dust inside from offroading, and no water leakage in downpour.
About $275 invested in the lid including hardware (hinges, struts and locks). It weighs about 85 pounds and the tent weighs another 125, so when towing offroad, I use the tiedowns as mentioned in post above to relieve stress on hinges. Otherwise, I don't bother with the tiedowns.
BX

 

[BajaXplorer]

I just recently purchased an M101 1.5 ton trailer off military base in Hooks, Tx. I planned to convert it to an off-roader. It was recently recondiotioned by the military and was B rated. I went to pick it up and it was too large(weight/tires) for my 4Runner. I left it at a trailer shop in Texarkana to change out axle and tires so I could transport back to Santa Fe, NM. The trailer shop is a couple of good ol boys who are clueless and haven't even looked at it for 2 wks. I need help in either instructing them, or better, the name of someone in the area(200miles?) who can finish, or better yet start , the work. Thanks in advance. Dean

I'm sorry, but I cannot be of any help on the US Army M101. I know they are much bigger (too big for my D/C). Maybe someone else reading your post can offer some advice.
BX

 

[BajaXplorer]

Indeed a most well thought out trailer, I sure hope that my friend will duplicate some of your great ideas. Is the trailer pretty much sealed or does the bed need any special sealing? How about the lighting, were you able to use any existing wires and what type of connestor was there if any?
Thanks,
Steve

Steve,
Trailer did not have lights when I got it. Used after market trailer lights (from Lowe's). Trailer wiring was intact and I cut and spliced as needed at the hitch and at the lights. Lid seal has worked very well for such a simple solution. Just 1"x3/16" rubber gasket from Ace with peel and stick adhesive on one side.
BX

 

[Steve Curren]

Thanks for the info, that will save a few minutes of time when we are ready to get working on the trailer.
Once again thanks a million,
Steve

 

[Willman]

Thanks for the info, that will save a few minutes of time when we are ready to get working on the trailer.
Once again thanks a million,
Steve

Ditto!!

 

[p1michaud]

Dig the trailer

BX,
Just caugh up on this thread. Cool trailer, nicely set up, I like it!
Cheers :beer:,
P

 

[Willman]

BX,
Few more questions for ya.....

Do you have a picture of the hinges all mounted up on the lid?

Where did you get the hinges?

Are they steel of SS?

In your opinion...do you like the hinges you used or would a piano hinge would have worked better?

Thanks BX!

 

[Willman]

And another one or two for ya......

How do you like the 16 ga. on the lid? To little, good, or not heavy enough?

Thanks BX!

:chowtime:

 

[BajaXplorer]

Willman,
Will have to take a couple of pix of hinges and post them here. There are four 2"x2" steel hinges (not SS) spaced evenly (from Ace, I believe). Didn't see a need for piano hinge, but was careful about squaring the hinges to each other so they did not bind up when opening the lid. Used the crimped type lock nuts on the inside so someone could not remove the bolts to get in (they just spin around after bolt is turned a little). Hinges have worked fine and not loosened up. Of course, offroading I have a ratchet strap across each end to control any movement of lid. Don't feel piano hinge necessary, but believe it would probably be more secure due to number of fasteners used.
Feel the 16 gage was a good choice to keep someone from using a can opener to get in. Weighed the complete lid before attaching it. At 80 lbs, it a little heavier than I care for, but has not been a problem. Feel 18 gage would be light as I would care to go.
BX

 

[Willman]

Willman,
Will have to take a couple of pix of hinges and post them here. There are four 2"x2" steel hinges (not SS) spaced evenly (from Ace, I believe). Didn't see a need for piano hinge, but was careful about squaring the hinges to each other so they did not bind up when opening the lid. Used the crimped type lock nuts on the inside so someone could not remove the bolts to get in (they just spin around after bolt is turned a little). Hinges have worked fine and not loosened up. Of course, offroading I have a ratchet strap across each end to control any movement of lid. Don't feel piano hinge necessary, but believe it would probably be more secure due to number of fasteners used.
Feel the 16 gage was a good choice to keep someone from using a can opener to get in. Weighed the complete lid before attaching it. At 80 lbs, it a little heavier than I care for, but has not been a problem. Feel 18 gage would be light as I would care to go.
BX

Thanks BX for taking the time to reply back!

Thanks for all the great infor!

Look foreword to seeing those pictures when you get time.

Thanks again!

 

[BajaXplorer]

Willman,
Have attached pix of hinges as requested.
BX