Concerns with a 91 taco im looking at.. what do I look for?

Pappy

Active member
What is different here is the drivetrains. The 22R-E and 3RZ got a G-series or W-series transmission and RF1A transfer case (in the 95 and older). The V6 engines (and the turbo 4 cylinder) got an R-series transmission behind it and a VF1A t-case (the Tacoma also got a chain t-case on both engines). The difference is the RF1A is a totally gear driven transfer and the VF1A is a chain driven case. The tranny bell housings and the tailshafts don't mix, either.

Sort of. The 22RE were all W-series 5 speeds with a 21-spline gear drive transfer case. The 22RET (turbo) received a R-series transmission, the highly desirable R151F, with a 23-spline gear drive transfer case (not chain). You can use the R151F bellhousing to bolt the V6 R150F transmission behind the 22RE.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bkg

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Sort of. The 22RE were all W-series 5 speeds with a 21-spline gear drive transfer case. The 22RET (turbo) received a R-series transmission, the highly desirable R151F, with a 23-spline gear drive transfer case (not chain). You can use the R151F bellhousing to bolt the V6 R150F transmission behind the 22RE.
That is correct, the turbo 22R has a RF1A. It was confusing in my post. The unicorn configuration is a factory R151F + RF1A. This has the nice low 1st gear (4.31:1) and doesn't require changing 21-spine input gears.

Some 22R-E have a G58. Not sure what years, though.

You can also use the W59 bell housing to mate a 3RZ (presumably coming from the same Tacoma donor) to a W56 in a truck losing its 22R-E. So nothing other than motor mounts has to change. Well other than flipping the exhaust, air and fuel, all the wiring and plumbing. Trivial. ;-)
 
Last edited:

goldenfiber

New member
I have a turbo one saved in my list, going for 4k. A days drive for me so thats out of the question. I didnt think they were that rare from the few i found across the nation.

I need to keep in mind that im not as young as I used to be, so swaps are only in the 'if it needs to be done' category.

Would hopping onto a clean low miles (160k) 3.0 with some kind of engine noise (will identify tomorrow) be worth it? Ad says 75 bux in parts to fix by removing the oil pan.. I dont know what would be 75 bux in the oil pan other than a oil pump. Hes gone down on the price 3 times since yesterday. The guy is moving and is afraid to drive it with engine noise.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Couldn't tell you production numbers, but people travel to get them when they come up for sale so I don't think it's something you see often.
 

goldenfiber

New member
Anyone know what supercharger this is? I read somewhere it might be a B&M. It doesnt appear so from the ones Ive seen.

2018-07-29_220833.png
 
Last edited:

goldenfiber

New member
Sorry for constant questions, you guys are being a huge help for me tho! Would it be worth getting something with toasted head gaskets and replacing them?
 

Pappy

Active member
Sorry for constant questions, you guys are being a huge help for me tho! Would it be worth getting something with toasted head gaskets and replacing them?
Depends on the amount of damage done when the gaskets blew. If the engine was over-heated it's possible the heads are warped/cracked.
 

bkg

Explorer
That is correct, the turbo 22R has a RF1A. It was confusing in my post. The unicorn configuration is a factory R151F + RF1A. This has the nice low 1st gear (4.31:1) and doesn't require changing 21-spine input gears.

Some 22R-E have a G58. Not sure what years, though.

You can also use the W59 bell housing to mate a 3RZ (presumably coming from the same Tacoma donor) to a W56 in a truck losing its 22R-E. So nothing other than motor mounts has to change. Well other than flipping the exhaust, air and fuel, all the wiring and plumbing. Trivial. ;-)


Never been a fan of the 151 due to its shifter location. Always preferred the 150... the tcase adapter isn’t a huge deal, imho. The 150 can get a lower 1st gear from marlin, if needed, but I never felt the need (threee 150’s in front of dual/dual ultimates).

Unless the purpose of the truck is hard core, I have to agree with the “buy a 1st gen tacoma” recommendation.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
The end goal is to have a reliable something to go exploring and camping in and eventually to go from Alaska to the southern tip of SA.

Bringing this back up.

Gotta ask yourself....is it about the vehicle, or is about travel?

If it is indeed about travel, would find the lowest mileage whatever in your budget...load it up and hit the road.
 

goldenfiber

New member
Its a mix of both. I really dont want to go for something easily affordable, like a M1009 or M35A2, or the big 3 and something break and I get stranded in another country because those vehicles are not common. Or go broke shipping a part over night. The vehicle plays heavily on what travel I can do. Besides, Toyotas are known for reliability, and coming from driving american garbage, I miss having money :LOL:
 
Last edited:

Clutch

<---Pass
Its a mix of both. I really dont want to go for something easily affordable, like a M1009 or M35A2, or the big 3 and something break and I get stranded in another country because those vehicles are not common. Or go broke shipping a part over night. The vehicle plays heavily on what travel I can do. Besides, Toyotas are known for reliability, and coming from driving american garbage, I miss having money :LOL:

Understand that.

Yeah, but the age of Toyotas you're looking at are't reliable anymore. Mine is 19 years old...and I no longer trust it. It is in need of constant attention...lucky for me, it usually breaks close to home.

Doing repair work and swapping engines isn't going to save you any money either. Most of the genuine OEM parts are spendy, (I just paid $800 for a new steering rack)...because all of the Chinese reproduction parts are crap.

Sure you might be able to find a low mile one if you're lucky...but seals and plastic parts are deteriorating simply because of its' age.
 
Last edited:

bkg

Explorer
Its a mix of both. I really dont want to go for something easily affordable, like a M1009 or M35A2, or the big 3 and something break and I get stranded in another country because those vehicles are not common. Or go broke shipping a part over night. The vehicle plays heavily on what travel I can do. Besides, Toyotas are known for reliability, and coming from driving american garbage, I miss having money :LOL:

Read what is in RED... then read it again...
Now read what is in GREEN... Then read it again...

You need a stock vehicle, not something that has a drivetrain swap....
 

phsycle

Adventurer
Yeah, forget engine swaps. Heck, forget wasting time modding it up with a camper, kitchen, etc. Buy pre-built.

s-l1600-1-3-e1471023636669.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,380
Messages
2,906,403
Members
230,117
Latest member
greatwhite24
Top