Concerns with a 91 taco im looking at.. what do I look for?

Clutch

<---Pass
The NPR I rented had the 6.0L gasoline engine, it didn't lack for power going over passes. And the auto transmission in it worked pretty well, never hunted, seems to pick the right gear accelerating or decelerating, even downshifting like I do to engine brake. I was pretty impressed with it.

His is diesel..... sloooooow. 15 mpg though

What did that 6.0 get 8-10?
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
His diesel..... sloooooow. 15 mpg though
That was the kicker, this big van, 13' tall, all the aerodynamics literally of a brick, 14,500 GVWR (I was probably 12,000 lbs, we're talking tool chests, jacks, all the heavy crap), 300 HP gas engine, two significant passes and I got 12 MPG, which isn't that far below my Taco even empty. Now I was driving pretty slow, like 60 MPH, where I'll do 70+ in my Taco.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
That was the kicker, this big van, 13' tall, all the aerodynamics literally of a brick, 14,500 GVWR (I was probably 12,000 lbs), 300 HP gas engine, two significant passes and I got 12 MPG, which isn't that far below my Taco even empty.

Hey, not bad!
 

Pappy

Active member
What I noticed about Toyota (and I honestly can say still seems true with my Tacoma) is they don't fail suddenly. Like when my timing chain let loose in the 22R-E, I ignored the signs for a while thinking I'd look into it later.

Mine did. Of course it was an aftermarket chain the engine builder installed … with steel guides. Catastrophic fail on the freeway. Just quit.
 

goldenfiber

New member
You're welcome.

What loyal Toyota owners say and do are two different things. Anyone that has one for a long time, ask them to see all the repairs they have done over the years.

It is like anything else, as long as you're willing to put the effort into it, you can keep running for a long time. Sure mine has close to 400K on it, but it has taken some effort to get it there, and to keep it going. Honestly I am tired of working on it, but I am also too cheap to buy a new one. $35K for a new version of what I have, keeps my POS running for a long time. When my broken collarbone heals back up. I have to fix the front coil-overs [YET AGAIN!!!]

You could do what my buddy did for your Alaska to South America trip. They are traveling all summer, bought a used V8 4Runner, did some minor repairs...and is going to to sell it when he is done. Knowing him that SOB will probably make a profit on it..he is "one of those" guys...me *sigh* I loose money no matter what! :p

On trip like the one you're describing...the vehicle is going to be roached by the end of...sell it in SA, and fly back.

The major think thats sticks out to me about these is parts availability across the world. Nothing lasts forever, nothing is perfect. I expect repairs to come my way. Hell, Ive been tempted to do all this in a baja bug!
 

Clutch

<---Pass
The major think thats sticks out to me about these is parts availability across the world. Nothing lasts forever, nothing is perfect. I expect repairs to come my way. Hell, Ive been tempted to do all this in a baja bug!

Going South of the Border you're probably better off in a VW Bug. They are everywhere down there, and the locals know how to cobble those things back together too.

https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https://www.facebook.com/dirtsunrise/posts/2269472336415260&width=500
 
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DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Mine did. Of course it was an aftermarket chain the engine builder installed … with steel guides. Catastrophic fail on the freeway. Just quit.
Mine were the DOA (which in retrospect probably should've been a clue) metal-backed ones, too. But the warning I was getting was that the tensioner had actually failed, it moved but wasn't smooth anymore, so it would slap a little but it wasn't the chain against the timing cover but the chain against the metal guide and it was damped by the rubber facing, so it wasn't as obvious as a fully failed nylon guide. My suspicion is the loose chain fatigued the guide until it finally snapped off.

The actual failure was abrupt, instant engine seizure. The loose piece must have fallen or jammed, then wrapped under the chain, which snapped it and shredded the inside of the timing cover. I was lucky since I was about 2 blocks from home after driving back from a weekend backcountry skiing. The truck was parked for two days under a blanket of snow. It started and got me almost home at least.

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IMG_0743_med.jpg
 
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Pappy

Active member
Mine were the DOA (which in retrospect probably should've been a clue) metal-backed ones, too.

Ditto, also DOA, in a DOA engine at around 135K. My guides were in OK shape. The chain just snapped. No noise. Nothing jammed, in fact the engine was still spinning as I rolled to a stop. Problem is the 22RE is an interference engine. Bent the #4 exhaust valve.
 

goldenfiber

New member
for the 89-04 trucks, is a standard more desirable than an automatic in performance and economy or is it still a personal preference?
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
for the 89-04 trucks, is a standard more desirable than an automatic in performance and economy or is it still a personal preference?
79-95 trucks, generally yes the standard shift is going to be better, less sluggish. Definitely with the 4 cylinder you'd want a stick shift. In a 95-04 Tacoma the auto is tolerable but probably more a personal preference. Most of the Tacomas I've driven have been 5 speeds but the V6 4Runners of the same vintage I've driven with automatics weren't terrible.
 

tacollie

Glamper
Personally anything before the 4.0 needs a manual. The slush boxes sucked power and fuel. 05+ I hate to say it but the autos preform better than their manual counterparts (still wish I had the manual though!). My vote is still a first gen Tacoma

I had a 1990 4Runner with the 3.0. it was solid. My favorite was my 2000 4Runner with a 5 speed. The 2000 had more power and got better milage and was better in every way.
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
They'll have to take the standard shift from my cold, dead hands but @tacollie may be right, Toyota screwed the pooch with the RA60 in the 2nd gen Tacoma, gearing is all wrong. It's a close ratio car gearing for no reason, 1st could be shorter and 6th certainly should be taller.
 
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Clutch

<---Pass
My vote is still a first gen Tacoma.

Anecdotal but really hard to beat the 3.4. while everything around the engine/trans/transfer case in my truck has been rebuilt. The engine has barely been touched....376,000 miles and still going strong. *knock on wood*. Even with all those miles, the trans doesn't pop out of 1st gear like it did in my 22RE trucks.

Here is what that has been do to it.

Timing belt/waterpump every 90K. This is a non-interference engine, so if it does break, no catastrophic failure to the rest of the engine. I do the water pump whether it needs it or not when I have done the timing belt.

One valve cover gasket
Oil cooler gasket and o-ring
One injector o-ring (we did them all since it was apart)
Spark plugs every 100K
 
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bkg

Explorer
Timing belt/waterpump every 90K. This is a non-interference engine, so if it does break, no catastrophic failure to the rest of the engine. I do the water pump whether it needs it or not when I have done the timing belt.

very important statement. Seen many a discussion around "why change the water pump? it's fine!" Because you have to essentially redo the timing belt work all over again to get to the water pump!

It's great packaging.. but horrible for maintenance... kind of like the 2uz starter sitting in the valley...
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
It's great packaging.. but horrible for maintenance... kind of like the 2uz starter sitting in the valley...
That's the sort of thing that looks great in CAD and makes sense logically, protected from exhaust heat and out of the muck. But when they go to write the service manual someone gets a dope slap.
 

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