Coolest fuse block ever

[proper4wd]

Blue Sea Systems SafetyHub 100

"The SafetyHub 100 combines an ignition protected fuse block and an integrated connecting plug. It is safe for use on gasoline powered boats, reduces wiring connections, and consolidates up to seven fused circuits.

-Three 30A−200A MIDI®/AMI® fuses ideal for high-amp circuits including panel feeds, windlasses, and stereo amplifiers
-Four 1A−20A ATO®/ATC® fuses ideal for circuits including bilge pumps, alarms, and clock memory
-Sealed cover protects fuses from the harsh marine environment: IP66 rating—protected against powerful water jets
-Integrated connector plugs eliminate loose wires and provide a secure, waterproof connection
-Ignition protected fusing meets Coast Guard and ABYC requirements for installation on gasoline or diesel powered boats."

I just put one of these under the hood of my F350. I love it. I'm using one of the MIDI/AMI circuits at 50A to feed a sub panel in the back of the camper shell and will eventually use another for a large power inverter, and another for another sub panel in the cab.

The four ATC fuses (with waterproof pigtail harness) are ideal for under hood circuits or things at the front of the truck (driving lights).

Picked mine up at West Marine for around $65, I'm sure you could do better online.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Okay, I have a dumb question: How do you wire in an auxiliary fuse block? I'd love to do it, would make it much easier to install electrical accessories, but I don't quite know how to do it. Do you wire the fuse block directly to the battery or do you splice it into the wiring harness somewhere?

 

[proper4wd]

Directly to the battery. Mount the block as close as possible to the battery so that the unfused power lead between battery and fuse block is as short as possible. If you wish, you could wire in a solenoid on this cable as well that could switch the aux fuse block on or off from an outside source (switch on the dash, or ignition on power so that the circuits are only energized when the engine is running or the key is on). Just make sure the solenoid is rated for continuous duty and a high enough current.

Essentially, you are creating an entire secondary electrical system with its own wiring harness. You would not have to splice in to any of the vehicle's factory harness unless you chose to do so to integrate systems.

 

[Fireman78]

This is exactly what I want to do first (thanks for the pic of that fuse block) , then install my air compressor, HAM radio, and an inverter. (Actually the compressor is already "mounted", just the electrical part is confusing to me). I can't find anyone in Albuquerque to do this kind of work, I am actually considering driving all the way to Adventure Trailers HQ for their help. Vehicle electronics is like Arabic to me.

 

[BKCowGod]

Ooh, pretty!

I'm still kicking myself for leaving my Blue Sea fuse block in the J2000 when I sold it.

 

[Butch1979]

Thinking one of these will be used during my trailer build off the battery.

 

[spressomon]

Ok...a little late here Fireman78 but Ali is your man...and he lives near you.

 

[frgtwn]

Funny thing, spressomon, I thought of PMing the same thing. Poor AA- he is so needed.

 

[Caleb Long]

Adam-

Just ordered my own safetyhub100. How close is yours to the battery and what gauge wire did you use?

Caleb-

 

[tibfibber]

West Marine / Blue Sea demo video which give a decent look at the new, larger 150 version of this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTNtz4aYzuk

Nice looking unit, I could use one!

 

[Jr_Explorer]

TEASE! The photo won't load for me!

 

[mvbeggs]

Blue Sea SafetyHub 150

West Marine / Blue Sea demo video which give a decent look at the new, larger 150 version of this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTNtz4aYzuk

Nice looking unit, I could use one!

I used the 150 in the new teardrop. One thing to note, the 150 has an integrated negative bus bar as well. I went with the 150 for just this reason. Keeps all the wires nice and tidy, and in one place. Safetyhub 150 specs

Good units. Highly recommend.