Critical Spares List: Discovery I

Scott Brady

Founder
I would like to put together a complete spares list for the Discovery I. We can work on other vehicles next, but as I am planning to leave for Baja in a few weeks, I like the idea of doing the DI first. I appreciate any and all feedback on this. I am far from a expert on these trucks and their faults, but this is the list I have so far. Sinuhe helped a bit with this too. As suggestions are made, I will update this first post. The goal is obviously to only bring the most critical items, not to be able to rebuild the entire truck.

This will also vary some by the year and engine management.

1994-1995 3.9L and 14CUX EMS
1996-1999 4.0L and GEMS

It is also critical to have the RAVE manuals with you. Mine is stored on my iPhone, which is convenient. I also keep a copy on the laptop.

Minimum Critical Spares List:
MAS Airflow Sensor
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Relay
Upper and Lower Radiator Hose
Accessory Engine Belt
Crankshaft Sensor (GEMS)
Brake Switch
Throttle Position Sensor (GEMS)
Ignition Module STC1184
Ignition Coil (14CUX)

Remote/International Travel Spares List: In addition to above
Water Pump
Cap and Rotor (14CUX)
Bulbs for critical indicator lights (brake, turn signal, etc.)
Starter
Alternator
2-4 Spark Plugs
Fuel Filter
Fan Clutch (VC)
Alternator
Oil Filter and complete change of oil
Air Filter
Belt Tensioner Pulley
Power Steering High Pressure Hose
Wheel Bearings F and R

Technical Terrain Addendum:
Rear Drive Shaft
Rear Axle Shaft (long and short side)
Drive Flange Bolts

Specialty Tools Required:

Additional Modifications to Reduce Failure: (optional)
Remove Hi-Neutral-Lo Interlock Servo

Additions or corrections? Thanks!
 
Last edited:

roverdoc

Observer
spares

That list is pretty solid..u joints, hub nut tool, replace the plastic radiator plug if you have not with metal, cv, third if you have not upgraded the carriers
 
J

jeepfreak

Guest
Here is my list on on-hand parts. You can pick from the list what you think you need:
CV Joint
Right Front Inner Axle
Left Front Inner Axle
Right Rear Axle
Left Rear Axle
Drive Flange Bolts (5)
Spindle
Spindle/hub Nuts (2)
Brake Caliper Bolt (2)
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter
Upper Radiator Hose
Lower Radiator Hose
High pressure PS hose
Wheel Bearings (2)
Wheel Bearing Grease Seals (2)
Universal Joint (2)
Oil Filter
Brake Fluid
Tententioner Pulley
Serp Belt
Oil Lines
Pinion Bearing
Pinion Seal
Fuel Pump
Brake Switch
Diff Carrier
Starter
Alternator
Water Pump
Fan VC
Radius Arm Bushing
Thermostat
R&P
Motor mounts

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • again 011 (Small).jpg
    again 011 (Small).jpg
    69.5 KB · Views: 1,991
Last edited by a moderator:
J

jeepfreak

Guest
I also have a short and a long hard brake line zip-tied to the oh-******** handles inside the truck.
Don't forget Snap-ring pliers,Hub nut tool and 13mm, 12pt socket. I also carry some of that two-part epoxy. Comes in handy:

The_Cove_159.jpg


The_Cove_160.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
J

jeepfreak

Guest
For your bearings, grease them up real good and toss them into a vacuum food sealer bag. When you suck out the air the grease is pulled into the bearings. Then just toss the bag and all into your kit. Bearings are already packed and ready to go.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • again 015 (Small).jpg
    again 015 (Small).jpg
    56.6 KB · Views: 2,101

Scott Brady

Founder
I digg the vacuum pack idea. Clever!

Do you think the bearings are an issue if maintained properly? I am trying to determine which parts tend to break within their service interval or at random. Obviously, the fuel pump is one of those random items.

The tensioner pulley was a good suggestion, I will add that.

Is the high-pressure PS hose also a common failure point? We encountered that with a Land Cruiser in Baja, which made for quite a problem.

Thanks for the posts.
 
J

jeepfreak

Guest
I don't know how common the PS hose failure is, but it's a part you can't go to Advance Auto and pick up. It's small so there is no reason not to carry one. They usually fail when it's pouring rain or freezing cold, though:

2005_1009Image0052%20%28Small%29.jpg

It's the same with items such as motor mounts or an alternator. Although you may be able to find an alternator at a parts store, but if a bearing seizes in the middle of no-where, I'd rather have one. It's also better than relaying batteries back and forth to get home.

As for a bearing failing, why risk it? They're small - put them under the seat or in a seat pocket. A well maintained bearing may last longer, but it may last just long enough to get you 100-miles into a trip. Same with u-joints.

Anything can happen. Preparing for everything is impossible. You just got to figure out what you think you need and carry it. You can get really heavy really quick. I have a Pelican 1650 that weighs 180lbs full of "common" parts. That's too damn heavy to carry. But sure enough, what ever you do not have is/will break. How many sector shafts have you seen broken? What are the chances?

National%20Rally%20070%20%28Small%29.jpg

Same guy had a winch-line break and take out his oil filter. He needs a rabbits foot or something...
 

gjackson

FRGS
Do you think the bearings are an issue if maintained properly?

LR bearings can work loose especially on long long stretches of corrugations. If you catch it in time you just need to tighten. If not, then you are in for a hub rebuild and new bearings. For a 10 day trip to baja just check the wheels each evening. You know when the bearings were last packed don't you? :coffee: Obviously the hub wrench is pretty critical here. I'll be bringing one . . .

I also recommend prop shaft bolts for highly corrugated sections. They tend to come loose as well.

cheers
 
J

jeepfreak

Guest
Tire plugs.
Better yet, Safety Seal kit tucked away into a smaller case.

pelican029%20008.jpg
 
J

jeepfreak

Guest
One last thing before bed...

Look under your hood at the metal line on the steering box. It runs from the top of the box to the front.

Then look at your transmission line coming out of the bottom of the radiator. There should be a short piece of loom on part of the hose directly above the steering box line.

Make double sure the loom does not some in contact with the metal line. It WILL rub a hole on the metal line. If it does, you're screwed (see pics above using epoxy). I've had this happen twice.
 

Geo14cux

Adventurer
3/8 fine thread 1.25 gr8 & some nylock
VSS
Dizzy & wires
funnel & jug/cap
ultrablu/copper seals well greasy
bearing for pully
poly bushings for panhard no press needed
 

JSQ

Adventurer
Is the high-pressure PS hose also a common failure point? We encountered that with a Land Cruiser in Baja, which made for quite a problem.

Thanks for the posts.

The only line you should need to bring is the P/S soft return because everything else should be replaced with braided stainless. In your case, two engine oil and the P/S hi pressure feed line. For ZF trucks you should also replace the transmission cooler lines.

Anyone of those factory lines can burst and send the truck up in flames.
Have the rubber section replaced with braided stainless. Leave the hard line sections as they were.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
How much room & wgt is all that?

If you are traveling with other makes that share some of the same parts can you divide up who carries what? (thinking in future when with other Sportsmobile owners :)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,004
Messages
2,900,939
Members
229,233
Latest member
cwhit5
Top