CYi5's '99 4Runner Buildup

[ryani]

Great news! Thanks for the response. I stopped and talked to my local tire dealer and they said it shouldn't be a problem to put the 235 on the LC rims. Now I just have to paint mine and i'll be set.

 

[CYi5]

I picked up my Demello sliders today in Corona, roughly one month after date of order. I took advantage of the Christmas sale so I didn't mind waiting. They are the HD 1.75" round weld-on's with powder coating.

Question for you guys. I've got a lincoln 125 MIG 115V + gas that I have in my garage...oor access to a miller 220V + gas about two hours away in San Diego.

Convenience says to just use the 125 and take my time, what say you? I haven't had experience with the 220, but am pretty familiar with the 115.

 

[dustboy]

Hmm, things are always easier in the comfort of my own garage, and working in such a difficult position as sliders require, a familiar machine would probably work best. Do you think the 125 is powerful enough to get proper penetration?

The real question might be, is there a lift in SD?

 

[sasaholic]

if you are comportable welding with ur machine id just use it. make 1 pass with the heat up and get it to penetrate good and if after the first pass ur not satisfied lay down another weld. these frames are only 1/8 inch so it not like its think. ive welded with plenty of 110 machines that im comfident in the work that u can make them do. i always remember the key to a good weld is good prep so make sure u take a sanding disk and get every bit of that old paint off.

 

[CYi5]

Dustboy: Nope, no lift. I'll be lying on my back no matter what .

sasaholic: That's good advice, I was thinking along the same lines. Red87 and I just finished his bumper (3/16" mostly) and the welds turned out well with adequate penetration.

 

[CYi5]

Demello sliders and limited flares don't mix, fyi. A good amount of the inner plastic molding had to be shaved down, leaving a cavity which would fill with water/dirt. I filled these guys with silicone sealant. The plastic is also white underneath the paint, I was expecting it to be black. I also like to weigh things before they go on my truck...34 lbs. each side.

 

[sasaholic]

looks good did u use ur welder? also im surprised they dont look like they stick out far enought to get a highlift on there without smacking the doors. how far from the frame do they stick out

 

[red87]

looking good man

 

[dustboy]

It's good to have sliders that stick out a little further, I just kissed this rock with my side panels:

Someday I'll add another bar to make them a couple inches wider.

 

[CYi5]

yea, I used the 115v, worked terribly on about 6/8 legs. Probably just my lack of skill, I couldn't seem to dial it in for some reason.

I don't do many rocky trails these days and didn't want to rub my leg on them every time I enter the vehicle. The tucked up fitment is part of the reason I went with DO's this time. I haven't put the hi-lift up to it yet; I assumed the silver armor cladding was put there for hi-lift protection anyway .

 

[CYi5]

Curiosity got the better of me now that you mentioned it. There's about a fist width between the hi-lift body and the silver cladding and a smidge more to the door skin.

 

[red87]

Don't do what I did when I first used my hi-lift on my sliders, your paint is much nicer than mine

 

[Photog]

I have seen folks open the door, before placing the Hi-Lift under the slider. This provides plenty of room for the Hi-Lift. Even better, when the rig is leaning down on the side you want to lift (flat tire, tire in a hole, etc.) The rig is not likely to be level, when you need to lift it. :ylsmoke:

Hi-Lift work is always shakey. There will be issues to watch out for, no matter how you do it.

 

[xcmountain80]

I have seen folks open the door, before placing the Hi-Lift under the slider. This provides plenty of room for the Hi-Lift. Even better, when the rig is leaning down on the side you want to lift (flat tire, tire in a hole, etc.) The rig is not likely to be level, when you need to lift it. :ylsmoke:

Hi-Lift work is always shakey. There will be issues to watch out for, no matter how you do it.

True!

A

 

[red87]

I have seen folks open the door, before placing the Hi-Lift under the slider. This provides plenty of room for the Hi-Lift. Even better, when the rig is leaning down on the side you want to lift (flat tire, tire in a hole, etc.) The rig is not likely to be level, when you need to lift it. :ylsmoke:

Hi-Lift work is always shakey. There will be issues to watch out for, no matter how you do it.

Oh good idea, wish I would've known that little trick a year ago.