CYi5's '99 4Runner Buildup
- Thread starter CYi5
- Start date
Good tip. My old truck had a vertical "dent" on each side from the hi lift. The damage wasn't on the doors but I'm sure I could have moved the lift to the door area and still been able to lift the truck as much as I needed it. I would have been able to do what I was doing without damaging the sheet metal.
CYi5
Explorer
I was out at Calico this past weekend cruising around and realized a problem with my Hi-lift mount. I currently have it bolted to my yakima crossbars and stays up there perfectly well. However, It's nonstop rattling from the jack! I took the base plate off and that cut the rattling down slightly, but the mechanism itself bounces like crazy. Being solidly mounted, the clanking goes straight though my roof into the cab...I miss my tacoma with the separated cargo area 
.
I can put rubber isolators in the mount but I doubt that would help much. Anyone have any other ideas on how to keep the mechanism from bouncing around on the jack?
.I can put rubber isolators in the mount but I doubt that would help much. Anyone have any other ideas on how to keep the mechanism from bouncing around on the jack?
xcmountain80
Expedition Leader
Either a small ratcheting strap, or a HD rubber bungee cord anchored from tip of somewhere in the HL to the nose of the mechanism so that it take the slack out. I have mine mounted in the truck and it doesn't rattle much at all.
A
A
SilverBullet
Explorer
I used shock bushings on my bolts inside. It helps a lot.
CYi5
Explorer
Thanks for the ideas, i'll give some of them a shot. Another idea kicking around in the back of my head, a bolt on swing out. Granted this would be to retain the stock bumper for those to don't want to invest in a fabricated replacement.
I'm tempted to just invest in a new replacement for better departure angle (low tow hitch) and my stocker seems to be getting banged up more these days...But I also don't feel like dropping $750+ at the moment either.
The main reason for the swing out is to carry fuel; the spare tire has never been an issue where it is. Bolt on also allows me to take it off when not on trips if I really wanted to.
Please tell me what you think of this idea. I realize the main cross member may have to extend past the supports in order for the swing out to get out of the way of the hatch coming up, so that would be a little different design. The uprights would be 3/8" plate, the same thickness as the stock drop-downs for the hitch. The main crossmembers would be 2x2 .120 or 2x3 .120 for the swing arm.
I was leaning towards the iron pig spindle, but I may incorporate a double shear design, unsure at the moment.
I'm tempted to just invest in a new replacement for better departure angle (low tow hitch) and my stocker seems to be getting banged up more these days...But I also don't feel like dropping $750+ at the moment either.
The main reason for the swing out is to carry fuel; the spare tire has never been an issue where it is. Bolt on also allows me to take it off when not on trips if I really wanted to.
Please tell me what you think of this idea. I realize the main cross member may have to extend past the supports in order for the swing out to get out of the way of the hatch coming up, so that would be a little different design. The uprights would be 3/8" plate, the same thickness as the stock drop-downs for the hitch. The main crossmembers would be 2x2 .120 or 2x3 .120 for the swing arm.
I was leaning towards the iron pig spindle, but I may incorporate a double shear design, unsure at the moment.
Last edited:
CYi5
Explorer
Yea I would relocate it.
The sticker is covering a bit of paint that is beginning to chip away...
valkyrie
Adventurer
That's actually pretty slick.
You may have to offset the can carrier portion a bit off center to the driver's side . With such a short swing arm, the tailgate may not clear it. Otherwise, all you cold do is set the whole thing back which is undesirable IMO.
You could mount the highlift a low across the bottom of the can carrier and you relocate your license plate to the carrier as well. And, if you're wiring for the plate lights anyway, maybe you could add a work/backup light?
Interesting possibilities, and it's certainly something I think could be adapted to a fabricated bumper down the road if you ever do that.
You may have to offset the can carrier portion a bit off center to the driver's side . With such a short swing arm, the tailgate may not clear it. Otherwise, all you cold do is set the whole thing back which is undesirable IMO.
You could mount the highlift a low across the bottom of the can carrier and you relocate your license plate to the carrier as well. And, if you're wiring for the plate lights anyway, maybe you could add a work/backup light?
Interesting possibilities, and it's certainly something I think could be adapted to a fabricated bumper down the road if you ever do that.
CYi5
Explorer
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Yea, I think I may have to extend the main crossmember to the sides for a longer swing arm and to keep things symmetrical. Shouldn't be too much of a problem, i'll just have to alter the way it sits on the side supports slightly.
I was also throwing the idea around of the hi-lift bolted down low. Lower CG as well as less noise through my rack as I mentioned just prior. I may have to get a little more creative with the mounts than just welding bolts through, it seems like the tolerances will be somewhat tight with the swing arm. I haven't held it up yet, however.
Good ideas for the backup lights, that one hadn't crossed my mind yet.
The project would go rather quickly if I had access to my plasma cutter. Straight cuts, a grinder, and a sawzall will have to do..oof!
CYi5
Explorer
Those plans may be put on hold for a bit, just found these issues under the hood .
Engine has 150,000 miles. Mobil 1 since 125,000 when I acquired it. Any ideas? Valve cover gasket on top? Oil pan gasket on bottom? Rear main seal X-( ? Please help me diagnose! I've done the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket on a samurai, is this a shade tree job as well? The oil spots look similar to that situation which has me guessing those options.
Oil around cap.
On top around PCV valve.
Rear passenger from top.
Dripping down on steering rack.
Bottom of Bellhousing.
Above bellhousing driver's side.
Closer view of above bellhousing drivers side.
Passenger side rear oil pan.
Close up rear oil pan.
.Engine has 150,000 miles. Mobil 1 since 125,000 when I acquired it. Any ideas? Valve cover gasket on top? Oil pan gasket on bottom? Rear main seal X-( ? Please help me diagnose! I've done the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket on a samurai, is this a shade tree job as well? The oil spots look similar to that situation which has me guessing those options.
Oil around cap.
On top around PCV valve.
Rear passenger from top.
Dripping down on steering rack.
Bottom of Bellhousing.
Above bellhousing driver's side.
Closer view of above bellhousing drivers side.
Passenger side rear oil pan.
Close up rear oil pan.