Daddy's Jeep gettin' some love.

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
I would be looking to get some shocks on that thing.


Since it feels "stiff" in the front, too, maybe it's just traveling all the way to the bump stop and bouncing me off the axle assembly itself. That might explain the front away, now that I think about it. They are the stock springs up there, after all.

Could also explain what I'm feeling in the rear. I guess I could just get a set of shocks that works from 0"-2" over stock, in case I decide to go with the OME setup, minus the shocks that I'd have already.

Bilstein 5125's are what I've had my eye on for a while.

$$, though. Lot's of jeepers seem to like the Monoe Sensatracs for the $.
 

bat

Explorer
On your jeep 5100's is the way to go and it might be hard finding a 5125 in a eye to stem combo with proper valving and length.
 

ryanhewitt

Adventurer
Link to "Stu's website"

BIGdaddy could you post a link or any other info on the steering upgrade? Looks like it might be a nice/cheap upgrade. Thank you in advance.
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Hmmm...I dunno. That's a good question I guess.

NOT placing blame on anyone, but I think it was CA-RJ and XJmike who installed those two particular bolts. :sombrero:

I remember because I worked almost exclusively on the left front spring bolt, with a grinder, a BFH, and several choice curse words for probably 4-6 hours... :coffeedrink:

I doubt those guys would have overtightened anything that might need a bit of movement retained, but very worth checking it out.

Would overtightening the front bolts have done anything? (Didn't know you could overtighten them till now, so I very well could have overtorqued them)

Would new stock length shackles with greasable poly inserts be better if my stock ones are "done for".

Hey now!!! Actually IIRC, I told you that you needed to put the Jeep back on it's own weight AND tighten all those spring bolts. It needs to be under its own weight so the steel bushings that are vulcanized to the rubber part of the bushing, actually sit at a relaxed state at normal ride height. If you have the suspension drooped down and tighten these, when you put the weight on the springs, the rubber bushings will only rotate so far and then just bind... until they finally rip the center bushing out. I don't remember us doing it as we were running out of time because you took all day removing one bolt... :elkgrin:

If you have any ramps, back the rear axle up onto them, loosen the retighten the spring bolts if you're not sure. This will reset them. If no ramps, jack rear up and put jack stand under the axle (not frame) so the weight is like at ride height.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
+1 I'd be interested in a little more info too.


Pretty simple really. XJ's have pretty beefy drag links from the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle.

The tie rod that goes from the connection point on the drag link to left knuckle, however, leaves a lot to be desired:

-Hollow tube
-small adj. sleeve
-small tie rod ends.


ZJ's with V8 motors have almost exactly the same setup except for the fact that their tie rods are solid stock with a permanant rod end at the draglink side (eyelet on the draglink) and a beefy adj. sleeve and beefy tie rod end at the driver's side knuckle.

So basically you need:

-> ZJ V8 Tie rod (long part w/ permanant rod end either new or in good used shape)

-> Possibly a new adjuster sleeve

-> ZJ V8 Tie rod end. I ended up with a napa premium, as Moog parts turned out to be really hard to find here in San Diego.

I'll post up the rod end and adj. sleeve part number tomorrow (In my jeep right now) Not sure on the Part # for the ZJ tie rod, but I know other blokes have bought them new from a place like Morris4x4. I happened get one gifted to me to a buddy who went to heim joints on a larger, lifted XJ.
 

ryanhewitt

Adventurer
Thanks

BIGdaddy thank you for the reply. I figured it was a pretty easy swap, but was wondering if it would on a TJ? One difference that comes to mind is high vs. low pinion, but I don't know if there are others.

Has anyone done this on a TJ? Thanks in advance.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
BIGdaddy thank you for the reply. I figured it was a pretty easy swap, but was wondering if it would on a TJ? One difference that comes to mind is high vs. low pinion, but I don't know if there are others.

Has anyone done this on a TJ? Thanks in advance.


Hey Ryan,
check out this link:

http://www.performance4trucks.com/S...dium=froogle&utm_campaign=product&emlprox=out

If you're not familiar with it, this is the Correctlync from Currie. It basically does the same thing I am accomplishing with "cross-swapped" ZJ parts: a beefier, stronger, true-r "inverted Y" setup. This currie setup works for both XJs/ and TJs and uses all stock parts like pitman arms, knuckles, etc. No reaming necessary. (The currie setup is probably quite a bit stronger, but it's also much more expensive, but if I had the money to fling at it, I'd DEFINITELY go for it. I'm a big fan of overbuilt steering setups.)

If you follow the logic, it would seem that anything for an XJ should work for a TJ. Pretty much, a Dana 30 is a Dana 30 as far as steering goes.

That's what my research has shown me anyways...
 
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ryanhewitt

Adventurer
Some good info

BIGdaddy, thanks again for the quick reply. I've heard/seen the Currie setup, but I've been waiting due to the price. I might see if I can find the ZJ setup and do a compairison with my stock TJ as far as measurements go.
 

ccarm

Adventurer
Any updates on the shocks?? Curious as to what you will decide to go with. Great build so far...very entertaining!
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Any updates on the shocks?? Curious as to what you will decide to go with. Great build so far...very entertaining!

No decisions on shocks just yet. I did, however, stop off @ West Marine today to pick up my Blue Sea fuse block.

So far I'm VERY impressed with the quality, and it should clean up my install of my lights, CB radio, and eventually my Ham radio, too.

I also picked up a marine grade 12V Fridge, er, I mean..."lighter" socket for the rear cargo area. :D
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Ok, added to the parts pile with my CB antenna/coax setup.

Also, I finally, finallllly setup an appointment to get my bullbar built. I'm a big believer in protecting the front end from wayward deer and large socal, lifted pickups.

I'm dropping off my bumper with a local fab dude this saturday. He said it shouldn't be but a few hours to get it bent, notched and welded. NICE!!

His welds and prep are top notch, for sure. I'm excited! :)

It'll end up looking something like a shrockworks or Safarigard bumper with a main hoop, and two side hoops.

Something like this:

38231_423216530632_508465632_4871724_3238929_n.jpg
 
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ExpoMike

Well-known member
Yeah, sorry I couldn't help you out but my bender only has the 1.5" dies and your tube in 1.75". Looking at that Disco pic, looks like they are using 1.5" tube. LOL
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
Yeah, sorry I couldn't help you out but my bender only has the 1.5" dies and your tube in 1.75". Looking at that Disco pic, looks like they are using 1.5" tube. LOL

nope, no worries. I'm gettin' friend prices, so I'm happy.

Yeah, I like the Safariguard style, I just don't like the look of smaller 1.25-1.50 tube. Also, when I went to the metal store 2.00 seemed too big.

From handling the tube, and holding it up on my bumper, the 1.75 seems to be like Goldilocks porridge...Jussst right. :D
 

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