DeMented Toys $500 Excellent Adventure Trailer Build

80DDYota

Member
So in order to keep with the all purpose trailer goal, I need to figure out how to fit my motorcycle in it. Floor to inside ceiling is 38" high. My motorcycle is 41"tall.

I'm thinking that opposed to adding a spacer to raise the whole trailer top, I can instead just cut the center strip of floor and drop that section down 6".... Any thoughts or ideas? Has anyone done something similar?

No, no, no. Lower the bike and put a set of drag bars on it. Make it into a bobber, it will look cool and fit in the trailer.
 

Ted_Z

Adventurer
Let the air out of the bike's tires and carry a little electric compressor. Or make the top part of the trailer removeable with some toggle clamps.
 

zukrider

Explorer
why put it in with the top on? i thought it was removable for a reason? i wouldnt drop the floor, thats silly.
 

DeMented Toys

Adventurer
why put it in with the top on? i thought it was removable for a reason? i wouldnt drop the floor, thats silly.

It's not silly, it's smart.

Yeah, I'm bobbing the bike this winter, so maybe it will fit afterward. The top was going to be removable, but to seal it watertight the top had to be permanently attached/sealed. I could have probably come up with a way to still make the top removable, but I ran out of time/ got divorced and lost my garage, so i had to finish it in a hurry to a point that it was useable to move my stuff. Structurally with wing doors on the both sides and on the back, the top needs to stay attached. Also in order to lock it up securely the top has to be in place. The main frame rails are 6" tall, spaced 2' apart. To fit the bike at its current height without adding additional weight to the trailer The only solution I can see is to cut a center strip from the plywood floor, lowering it a few inches to drop the bikes wheels into. That way I can still lock the trailer to secure the bike and my tools and gear. I can easily cover the dropped down section with an aluminum ramp that would serve dual purpose to load the bike.

I'm really open to suggestion and I truly appreciate the constructive criticism and/or suggestions. I've put many hours in researching, looking at other builds, and designing then building this trailer. I value this forum and the way that we help each other out.... :)
 
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zukrider

Explorer
whoa, calm down! i dont know where your childish bull**** comment comes from, but it was not the intent. just an opinion. you would notice the 2 questions ahead of it?

anyway, more power to ya. i like the ramp over slot idea, that would be user friendly! sorry bout the issues, ive been there.

is it out of the question to "peak" the ceiling whether it be a "^" or peaked on sides with a flat top still. the flat portion could be as wide as your handlebars?
 

Mashurst

Adventurer
I'm trying to envision how the tail gate would work with the drop. Other than that I think I would be cool. My trailer plan has a false floor in it with water, batteries and such under it but it is below the tale gate hing. I like the ramp idea.
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
So in order to keep with the all purpose trailer goal, I need to figure out how to fit my motorcycle in it. Floor to inside ceiling is 38" high. My motorcycle is 41"tall.

I'm thinking that opposed to adding a spacer to raise the whole trailer top, I can instead just cut the center strip of floor and drop that section down 6".... Any thoughts or ideas? Has anyone done something similar?

41" To what? the mirror or the gauge cluster?
 

DeMented Toys

Adventurer
Yeah, I had considered peaking the ceiling, but with the solar panel and kayak rack mounted on top it just wouldn't work. The original design and intent was for the trailer to be an all purpose adventure trailer to securely hold my outdoor gear... But the I got this new toy... :)
And it would be sweet if it also served another purpose to securely hold my bike.

It's 42" to the top of the gauge cluster. Mirrors are coming off and I'll have bar end style mirrors with the new drag bars. I may be able to lower the gauges slightly, also I can get about 2" by compressing the front forks with a ratchet strap.

I was thinking of starting the lowered floor section about a foot or so forward of the tailgate inside the trailer, the wheel would be inside the trailer about that far before the handlebars/gauges. If the front wheel drops just before the handlebars hit the ceiling then it should work. That's my thinking anyway. I'll post some pics.
 

80DDYota

Member
It's not silly, it's smart. If you want to flame people's ideas you can take it somewhere else. I don't appreciate it one bit.

Yeah, I'm bobbing the bike this winter, so maybe it will fit afterward. The top was going to be removable, but to seal it watertight the top had to be permanently attached/sealed. I could have probably come up with a way to still make the top removable, but I ran out of time/ got divorced and lost my garage, so i had to finish it in a hurry to a point that it was useable to move my stuff. Structurally with wing doors on the both sides and on the back, the top needs to stay attached. Also in order to lock it up securely the top has to be in place. The main frame rails are 6" tall, spaced 2' apart. To fit the bike at its current height without adding additional weight to the trailer The only solution I can see is to cut a center strip from the plywood floor, lowering it a few inches to drop the bikes wheels into. That way I can still lock the trailer to secure the bike and my tools and gear. I can easily cover the dropped down section with an aluminum ramp that would serve dual purpose to load the bike.

I'm really open to suggestion and I truly appreciate the constructive criticism and/or suggestions. I've put many hours in researching, looking at other builds, and designing then building this trailer. I value this forum and the way that we help each other out.... I have zero tolerance for childish bull****. Enough said.

I wasn't being silly, I'm sure it was meant for someone else. I just knew that it would be a matter of time before you would modify the bike. Like most of us, it is hard to keep our stuff stock. That said...
It is not a bad idea for making a removable center section but, you wil be losing axle clearence. How bad would it be to space the whole top? I'm sure after the mods that you do to the bike it wouldn't need to be spaced by much.
 

DeMented Toys

Adventurer
Yeah, I thought about just spacing the top, but wanted to keep the top of the trailer lower than the top of my 4Runner tow vehicle. I think the bike need lowering anyway. :)
 

DeMented Toys

Adventurer
Allll righty then...

So I've finally gotten settled in with personal affairs taken care of... FINALLY! I've also worked out some anger issues and I apologize if I was harsh on anyone for their comments/criticism/suggestions. I greatly appreciate ALL comments and replies. :)

Now, on with the trailer build!!!

First thing I'm going to do is replace the floor. 3/4" plywood was overkill and just added weight. the unfinished trailer had to sit outside for quite a few months too so I feel that starting with a fresh floor is the way to go. And I can also go ahead and cut out "go fast" holes in the main 6" frame rails to reduce weight too. Being C channel design I don't think the holes will affect the strength enough to make a difference in relation to the size/purpose of the trailer.

Next I'm going to mount the solar pannel to the top front using quick release type mounts. Im not going to finalize wiring though until I find batteries and get my battery box for the tounge.

Then... Well, I'm going to accomplish one thing at a time and continue to move forward. In life and with this build. ;)
 

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