Desertdude -1997 80 series build up

[Desertdude]

Isotherm PDF

Watts divided by voltage shows amps being drawn.

115v / 750 W = 6.5 Amps

I am running a Yellow Top Optima ( soon to be changed to a higher amperage Lifeline or similar brand battery)

It takes approx 20 mins to heat the water . The 80 series Alt can barely keep up at low Rpm's. I really have not considered heating the water without the engine charging the battery.

One of the better designs in water heaters - the Isotherm can run of the engine ( heater I/O) - So I am thinking of removing the unused heater under the drivers seat and using those lines to heat the Isotherm.

In my early research I was looking at those submergable coils, but in the end, choose to have a SS tank with a complete set up - in case I change my mind and want to remove it and use it somewhere else. (Which I am close to doing)

I also own and use a Zodi extreme and a Helton heater (in the Tacoma)
they also work great - the Zodi the most fool proof and basic of the three.

 

[adventureduo]

Right on, thanks for the info DesertDude, I appreciate you taking the time to explain.

 

[Ursidae69]

I saw this amazing machine in person recently and it doesn't get much better than this. :bowdown:

 

[kcowyo]

Slee made SS ARB locker air lines will be included in the wrap up mod list...

Anymore info on these? I'm not finding anything on Slee's site......?:088:

The new stuff looks great. It will be interesting to see how you like the Columbus vs. the Maggiolina. The Toyos are cool but the BFG's just have that classic looking tread design to them. Nice pics from Escalante!

BTW, when heating the Zodi, what temp range is about right for a shower, ie not scalding and not freezing? When removed from the heating source, do you find the water cools quickly or slowly in the can? I still haven't used mine yet, (but apparently someone did, while pulling a trailer over Elephant Hill this weekend....) so knowing when to back off the heat as the thermometer display climbs would be a good thing.

Gracias Dude - :friday:

 

[adventureduo]

here ya go..

http://www.russellperformance.com/auto/acc/acc-arb.shtml

 

[akcruzers]

A few more photos of our nearly finished rig

After nearly 40K miles since leaving for the N2A trip - the 80 series Landcruiser is as solid as new. This is one enjoyable vehicle on and off highway.

We installed a DC front and rear DS and this along with Slee's 4" heavy coils in the rear have made all the difference in carrying all our gear, and making our drive train vibration free.

We're wrapping up a few loose end mods on the vehicle, and a bit of preventive maintenance (including a broken internal airline on the rear ARB locker) - Spoke with Christo and Ben at Slee offroad - they sent the parts I needed and the gaskets/seals came from Cdan (on IH8Mud) and American Toyota in NM - I completed the simple repair in a few hours, and was also able to install new seals and gaskets for the rear axle shafts. Installed all new brake pads ( after 30K miles the really needed it) Slee SS brake lines as well as Slee made SS ARB locker air lines will be included in the wrap up mod list...

A complete system OEM 50 litre sub-tank is coming from Australia to be installed. :jumping:

I moved from BFG tires to a new set of Open Country Toyos - man what a difference off-highway - Rugged profile, great tires.

A big thank you to Mike S over at Autohome for setting us up with the new Columbus Carbon Fiber Rooftop Tent - :REOutArchery02: its a beauty!

A super cool thanks goes out to the Overland Journal folks for including this 80 series Landcruiser in the first issues vehicle centerfold spread.

I will post up more info and a few more photos :Mechanic:

Photo Copyright © 2006, Gina Bringman

Good morning Pasquale and Kristina,
Oh I do remember this trip and the great green 80 you brought to Alaska for the TREK in 06.

I just want you two to know that you, Bob & Sally as well as Jim Brantly have been a huge inspiration to me. I saw first hand how well the 80's did up here when you guys brought them up. The 80 is a great platform for expedition travel. I have picked up a locked 80, here in Alaska of all places and have started my build. I am about 95% done with the build and am already wheeling it. I am super impressed by the rigs abilities. When I'm finished I'll post up some build pics.

Thank also for introducing me to ExPo as well. I have truly learned and have been inspired on this site.

Hope to see you next spring

AKCRUZERS
(Greg)

 

[FourByLand]

Well it sure has come along way and will take you guys alot further.

Great job on the build guys and thanks for sharing!

:arabia:

 

[mountainpete]

Pasquale - my truck wants to be just like yours when it grows up!

Looks great :wings:

 

[DaveInDenver]

SS ARB locker air lines will be included in the wrap up mod list...

Chris Wood from ARB gave the club a demo a couple of weeks ago. He was asked about this and why ARB uses the plastic air lines. He said they are designed as the fuse for the system and he recommended against using solid lines that run from the solenoids to the axles. I guess the idea is if the hose catches on something, it's designed to break the blue line rather than a fitting, solenoid or the locker bulkhead or compressor. Thoughts about this?

 

[spressomon]

Chris Wood from ARB gave the club a demo a couple of weeks ago. He was asked about this and why ARB uses the plastic air lines. He said they are designed as the fuse for the system and he recommended against using solid lines that run from the solenoids to the axles. I guess the idea is if the hose catches on something, it's designed to break the blue line rather than a fitting, solenoid or the locker bulkhead or compressor. Thoughts about this?

I ran a SS braided line with threaded fittings on each end for my front ARB mainly because the fitting on the front diff (LC 100 IFS) is on the top side of the diff housing...and it can only be accessed by lowering the the whole assembly (and if it developed a leak or needed to be replaced it would be a major PITA in the garage let alone out on a trail). There is no possible way, on my set-up, trail debris could snag my line. However a rear run would be a little different and possibly more exposed. Other than that it makes sense from a "weak link" perspective.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Chris Wood from ARB gave the club a demo a couple of weeks ago. He was asked about this and why ARB uses the plastic air lines. He said they are designed as the fuse for the system and he recommended against using solid lines that run from the solenoids to the axles. I guess the idea is if the hose catches on something, it's designed to break the blue line rather than a fitting, solenoid or the locker bulkhead or compressor. Thoughts about this?

I believe the concern is that the compressor might stick on and the hope is to blow the line instead of blowing out the seals in the diff.

 

[Desertdude]

Good morning Pasquale and Kristina,
Oh I do remember this trip and the great green 80 you brought to Alaska for the TREK in 06.

Its is great to hear from you Greg! Yes that trip is still on the fore front of our minds, and talk about it often. Wish we could drive right back up there now and do it all over again. Hope to see you down here in the desert when you can, the door is always open...

 

[Desertdude]

I agree in part. The connections being slip fit might also be a "fuse". The blue line is easy to fix with connectors if it gets a rip or tear. The Blue line is quite stout, ad the way its been routed under the vehicle, it has no chance of being hit, or grabbed, or burned by exhaust.

I do however think that SS braided lines offered by Slee offroad will make for a nice clean "forever" install.

Chris Wood from ARB gave the club a demo a couple of weeks ago. He was asked about this and why ARB uses the plastic air lines. He said they are designed as the fuse for the system and he recommended against using solid lines that run from the solenoids to the axles. I guess the idea is if the hose catches on something, it's designed to break the blue line rather than a fitting, solenoid or the locker bulkhead or compressor. Thoughts about this?

 

[DaveInDenver]

I believe the concern is that the compressor might stick on and the hope is to blow the line instead of blowing out the seals in the diff.

That makes sense. Didn't think to press him on the specifics. Actually, as I type this, that really makes a whole bunch of sense, because the only thing keeping the tank on the compressor from blowing up if the pressure switch dies would be the blue hose. The pressure switch is a piece of electronics like anything else, certainly prone to vibration, heat/cold, wear.

 

[Mlachica]

That makes sense. Didn't think to press him on the specifics. Actually, as I type this, that really makes a whole bunch of sense, because the only thing keeping the tank on the compressor from blowing up if the pressure switch dies would be the blue hose. The pressure switch is a piece of electronics like anything else, certainly prone to vibration, heat/cold, wear.

McMasterCarr has a great line up of safety relief valves that could solve this. There's adjustable one's or you can get them preset from 0-100psig in increments of 5psig. I like the ss lines. Will the blue nylon hoses get brittle over time?