Diesel Trooper II clutch replacement

[o2bin4lo]

Cable broke so something in the clutch is messed up. Very hard pedal, return spring is not strong enough to pull pedal back. I have inspected the cable and it is not binding up inside of the casing. I'm wondering if it's the throw out bearing binding on the out put shaft. b-4 the cable broke it shifted, inspite of the hard pedal, thru all of the gears. no slipping on hard acceleration.
Any advice on how to remove the transmission. Took out the starter and the plumbing in the way, took out the dip stick tube. cross member is out, trans is supported with a jack. A couple of the bolts are out, but there are the ones
on top of the bell housing that I cannot figure out . I've cut an access hole
in the tranny hump that gets to one bolt.
Do I need to consider pulling the engine and trans as a unit then seperate to get to the clutch???
Thanks
James

 

[Bennyhana]

instead of unbolting the trans from the cross member just unbolt the crossmember from the frame and drop the trans/crossmember as a unit. You'll have to remove both driveshafts and shifters. getting it out is the easy part, getting everything to line back up however....that'll try your patience. Good luck and check out www.planetisuzoo.com for more info...

 

[o2bin4lo]

Thank you

 

[Bennyhana]

Just re-read your original post. Did you put in a new clutch cable?..If so there is a way to adjust the pedal feel on the cable. There are the two jam nuts where the cable comes out of the firewall. Loosen them and pull the cable out a bit while tightening the nut....pull too far and you'll hear the throw out bearing start to engage the pressure plate though...

BTW I too have an ole trooper, Just did the clutch last winter...not fun...

 

[o2bin4lo]

I found the jamb nut setup at the fire wall. When the cable broke I removed it to see if the bind was in the cable, nope the cable, besides being broke, would move with out any resistance at all.
So it's on to the throw out bearing, maybe it is binding on the output shaft.
This evening I've read the FSM (factory service manual) a dozen times the part where
you rotate the trans 90 degrees as part of the proceedure to get it out. Now that move
redifines PITA! My nifty setup to attach the floor jack to the motor mount as a secure
point just went down the tube. And then there is the frame cross member at the very rear of the trans, the one that is welded in. PITA! not an award winner as far a design
goes.
To dark, and too tired to do any more tonight.
If you have any other tips they would be appreciated.
Thanks
James

 

[zukrider]

i prefer to pull the engine on most cars while doing a clutch. in and out nice and easy. also, for the reaching the bolt issue, you could by some wobbly sockets. not a wobble extension with a socket, get the socket with a wobble integrated in. love em to death!

 

[o2bin4lo]

Trans is out, major pita Should have gone with the engine pull.
T/O bearing is fine, spins smooth, no signs of extreme heat.
Clutch fork snags ever so slightly on a bolt head at full extension of release, a moment at the grinding wheel will take care of that.
Disc is fine, wear is not past the grooves in the material, springs all intact, slides smooth
on trans input shaft, no signs of extreme heat.
Flywheel, you can still see the machine marks when it was surfaced. I think it's a replace ment clutch as I've not seen any Isuzu stamps.
input shaft from the trans spins free, a bit of side to side "wiggle" no movement front to back, like a thrust washer was worn out. side to side wiggle not more than a 1/16"
Pilot bearing smooth as silk.
I'm at a loss. ******???
Could it been as simple as the cable needing an injection of lube throughout the length?
The way it's mounted from the fire wall to the release fork seems fine, no obvious tight bends.
Any thoughts ???
James

 

[zukrider]

well, since its open, a t/o bearing is good insurance. i used to be big into samurai's. the clutch cable on thenm have a tendency to splay inside of the housing where they come through the fire wall. my opinion is its a faulty design. but, a new cable assembly and your good to go.

have you tried pulling the cable through the housing by hand? if their is any resistance than i would lube it with some good white lithium grease. if that doesnt help, then you need a cable.

hope this helps!

 

[o2bin4lo]

My early diagnosis is to go for the simple problem and work my way up. B-4 the cable
broke I disconnected both ends of the cable to see if it was indeed bound up. It was fine.
Then it broke a few days later, during the time I had ordered new clutch parts.
So now it gets a new cable and clutch parts. I'm also wondering about how much stretch the cable has, and how that effects the clutch operation. The cable that broke was adjusted all the way out at the jamb nuts on the fire wall. i agree the cable is a week
design.
As it goes, slowly, back together do have to remove the assembly on the left side of the trans that the front drive shaft attaches to in order to get the trans installed. Trans came
out with it still attached. But it looks like a "square peg going into a round hole"
The shop manual show it coming off, but I'm not to keen on that idea, makes an opportunity for something foriegn to get in side. Strange, strange, strange
Thanks for the info
James