disco 1 tdi in a US spec rover

Red90

Adventurer
It is very important that you increase the off boost fueling. This gets rid of a large amount of the turbo lag. You should never need to slip the clutch.
 

JSQ

Adventurer
we didn't have any problems if we were in low range so agree with Jack that something else is happening if one is stalling in 1Lo.

Even in 1Hi you shouldn't be bogging out or stalling with the base fuel turned up a bit.
 

jrose609

Explorer
It is very important that you increase the off boost fueling. This gets rid of a large amount of the turbo lag. You should never need to slip the clutch.

Is it ok to turn up the fuel on an engine with 90,000Kms on the clock?

I just got an uprated intercooler. Instructions say you can turn up the fuel when you install the intercooler. Just haven't done it yet. Does it make that much difference?

Jason
 

JSQ

Adventurer
Is it ok to turn up the fuel on an engine with 90,000Kms on the clock?

I just got an uprated intercooler. Instructions say you can turn up the fuel when you install the intercooler. Just haven't done it yet. Does it make that much difference?

Jason


I don't know your engine and I'm not your attorney, but if the engine is sound, it's sound. 90K kms is very little for a three hundy. As long as you have no outstanding issues I would adjust, base fuel, boost fuel, boost signal and boost pressure.
If you haven't already install a pyrometer for EGT before you attempt any of the above. Watch that and don't let it get over 1200F. Adjust a little and test drive. Don't go too big.

I run a big intercooler on the 110 and there's much debate about how effective the various units are. From my perspective in this application a big IC doesn't necessarily give you more power it just allows you to run more fuel without dangerously raising the EGT. I think the people who say they install an IC on a 300Tdi and instantly butt-dyno off the charts are full of ********. My big priority was setting up my engine to run cool (both water and EGT) with reasonable power. I wasn't hotrodding and that's why I don't have a VVT or anything like that.

I want it to run cool and run far.
 

iveco4x4

New member
Is it ok to turn up the fuel on an engine with 90,000Kms on the clock?

I just got an uprated intercooler. Instructions say you can turn up the fuel when you install the intercooler. Just haven't done it yet. Does it make that much difference?

Jason

yes its fine, subject to the engine, pump etc are in good condition, my mate runs allisport the intercooling specialists and he's often working on high milage vehicles, 90k km is nothing (hes gotta do my iveco soon with 250k km on the clock)

rich
 

jrose609

Explorer
I don't know your engine and I'm not your attorney, but if the engine is sound, it's sound. 90K kms is very little for a three hundy. As long as you have no outstanding issues I would adjust, base fuel, boost fuel, boost signal and boost pressure.
If you haven't already install a pyrometer for EGT before you attempt any of the above. Watch that and don't let it get over 1200F. Adjust a little and test drive. Don't go too big.

I run a big intercooler on the 110 and there's much debate about how effective the various units are. From my perspective in this application a big IC doesn't necessarily give you more power it just allows you to run more fuel without dangerously raising the EGT. I think the people who say they install an IC on a 300Tdi and instantly butt-dyno off the charts are full of ********. My big priority was setting up my engine to run cool (both water and EGT) with reasonable power. I wasn't hotrodding and that's why I don't have a VVT or anything like that.

I want it to run cool and run far.
Thanks, Jack. Do you have EGR? I took mine out and put a blanking plate in. Is that where you installed the pyrometer? Seems like the logical place. Which gauge system did you use? VDO?

I agree on the intercooler. I bought the intercooler to lower temps. I hear a little more whine from the turbo, but that could just be me being more attentive to it. I bought my 300 to run cool and a lot of miles too. Nice not having an ECU to worry about on trips.


Rich, I bought my intercooler from Allisport. It is almost like a piece of art. Shame it has to get dirty :)
 

JSQ

Adventurer
Thanks, Jack. Do you have EGR? I took mine out and put a blanking plate in. Is that where you installed the pyrometer? Seems like the logical place. Which gauge system did you use? VDO?

I agree on the intercooler. I bought the intercooler to lower temps. I hear a little more whine from the turbo, but that could just be me being more attentive to it. I bought my 300 to run cool and a lot of miles too. Nice not having an ECU to worry about on trips.


Rich, I bought my intercooler from Allisport. It is almost like a piece of art. Shame it has to get dirty :)


From the EE bbs:
http://www2.expeditionexchange.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27114&postcount=541

JSQ said:
Most importantly I installed the pyrometer for my EGT. I finally have an idea of how hot the turbo is getting and what kind of room I have to make fuel and boost adjustments.

I decided to use the EGR blanking plate as the location to weld a bung for the probe. This gives me a temp reading upstream of the turbo, right off the manifold and it gives an average temp across all four exhaust ports.

P1080847.JPG

I drilled an angled hole through the plate and then ground a 45 degree surface on the back of the bung. That way the probe is cleanly in the center of the manifold.

Here's the probe:

P1080852.JPG

And here it is installed:

P1080853.JPG

It's working properly and I'm watching the behavior of the exhaust gas temp closely. So far so good it's well below any dangerous peak. I've read that 1200 degrees or so is the edge of the danger zone. I'd like to tune the turbo to produce what I can while staying well short of that.
The other nice thing about having EGT is I now have a gauge to show me when the turbo is sufficiently cool to shut down the motor. Up until now after driving any considerable distance I would idle the motor after parking to allow the turbo to cool and prevent excessive wear. This was really just a guessing game though. 30 seconds or a minute and I turned it off. Now I just watch the gauge and let it get down to 450 before I kill the engine.

It's a very good feeling to have these accurate gauges and senders in and know what's really going on with the 300Tdi.

P1080859.JPG

Hopefully I'll get the speedometer programmed soon and I'll really be stylin.
 

Red90

Adventurer
1200 is not dangerous. You can run continuously there forever. Short term limits are much higher. You don't need to add safety factors on top of this.
 

piper109

Observer
Hi,
I have just joined this forum and read this thread so I am not well informed yet.
I am about to convert a Disco to 300tdi myself. I was unaware of the suppliers on both sides of the pond who ship stuff as kits so I am basically going to do it myself. Engine, transmission, rad etc. Hopefully I can convert to 5 sp at the same time.

I am planning to crate the stuff up and ship to Charleston. I would love to find folks in the SE who have already done this.

What do you have to do to make sure the engine comes in without offending anyone important? Does it have to have an "earlier model" description?

Thanks,

Steve
 

High Center

Adventurer
Reading this thread fired my imagination- has anyone seen or heard of alternate engine swaps in a Disco I? Mercedes Diesel perhaps? I love my Landy engine but the truth is that I'm sure it will sputter to a leaky stop one day and I would love to have a few options at hand.

Cheers!
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
I am planning to crate the stuff up and ship to Charleston. I would love to find folks in the SE who have already done this.

What do you have to do to make sure the engine comes in without offending anyone important? Does it have to have an "earlier model" description?
I had mine shipped to Charleston and didn't have any issues. If you want, I can dig out the paperwork and see exactly how it was labeled, but I think it just said "Land Rover Diesel Engine, gearbox and ancillaries"
 

piper109

Observer
That would be great,
I would like to see how you did it. Which forwarding company did you use?
Did you not have to fill out an EPA declaration?

Thanks, Steve

I had mine shipped to Charleston and didn't have any issues. If you want, I can dig out the paperwork and see exactly how it was labeled, but I think it just said "Land Rover Diesel Engine, gearbox and ancillaries"
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Here's what was on the invoice:
Sold as Unit:
Used Land Rover diesel engine (take out) consisting of:
Engine
Engine ancillaries
Gearbox
Gearbox crossmember
Radiator
Radiator mounting frame
Intercooler
Snorkle
Clutch slave cylinder
Other miscellaneous parts needed for installation

The freight company in the UK gave me the information on where it was going to end up, in this case CaroTrans, and I used JF Moran as the customs broker, http://www.jfmoran.com/
Other folks have said they've handled the customs stuff themselves without an issue.

I drove to Charleston with a trailer, went to JF Moran and signed all the paperwork and gave them their check, then drove over to CaroTrans and picked up the engine. They were very helpful in helping load it. I'd rented the smallest u-haul enclosed trailer and forgot to allow for the door opening being a little smaller than the width of the trailer so the pallet it came in on wouldn't fit. They put it on another pallet for me, which technically they could have charged me for, but they didn't.
 
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