Disco 1 vs Disco 3 (LR3)

[tacocat]

D1 now. Skip the LR3 and go right to a 4 in a couple years. Nice D1s are going to get even more expensive than they already are as time marches on, so you may be able to own one for very cheap if you sell it later.

That’s the situation I am in now with my 80. Those and the D1 are basically gold bars you can drive. Comes at a price though. One careless moron that is texting while driving can take it all away.

I think the LR3 will get there too. Right now it’s a bit of a sleeper like the V8 4Runner. Both Toyota and Land Rover have strong long term OEM replacement parts programs due to global usage. In addition, the salvagers do a good job of saving parts.

Side note: I love visiting the Rancho Cordova auto boneyard.

D4 kinda frightens me with the timing chain issue. Of course, I can replace that myself. The 4.4 has proven itself. The 5.0 is a still maturing knowledge base, but other than the timing chain is sounding like a solid unit.

Oh yeah, I prefer the Spartan styling of the 3 more. I don’t care for the late 3’s color matched trim. I have that now in the LX450. Bleh! Give me black trim all day long.

Also the 80 is the first rig, I’ve ever owned with a split gate. Greatest. Thing. Ever. My FJ Cruiser had a barn door.

Pro Tip: Never leave your barn door open in a blizzard while suiting up.

 

[Highlander]

Disco 1 has got arguably the most sophisticated and well designed transfer case ever. It was amazing how well the AWD system of Disco I worked due to the mechanically perfect TC.
You could lock the central diff, or go to the low gear, or do both.
On the Bridgestone Blizzaks my Disco 1 was unstoppable in snow and ice. I used to beat Subarus.

Having said this , are you really gonna finds parts for Disco 1 now?

 

[Carson G]

I’ve driven every model Disco IMO the best one is a D3 with the 4.0 V6. It’s just as reliable as the V8 if not more so and the cost to do a complete rebuild on that engine is like $1,000 and I’m talking new everything in the engine. D4 is IMO not worth the premium especially when we start talking about fixing stuff that commonly breaks.

 

[XJLI]

If you enjoy wrenching, you'll be good with the D1.

And I'd argue that a one or two owner sub 75k LR4 will be more reliable than a 5,6,7 owner 150k+ LR3. Either way... pay up front, or pay later. It's still a Rover. The timing chain thing is for real, but if you get one that was taken care of with low miles and you do 5-6k oil changes it isn't as big of a deal as you think.

 

[gabrielef]

I’ve driven every model Disco IMO the best one is a D3 with the 4.0 V6. It’s just as reliable as the V8 if not more so and the cost to do a complete rebuild on that engine is like $1,000 and I’m talking new everything in the engine. D4 is IMO not worth the premium especially when we start talking about fixing stuff that commonly breaks.

No engine rebuilds after 273,491 miles, I think the V8 is a winner. I tow after enough and the V6 wouldn’t cut it for me. It already is anemic at altitude, I can’t imagine a V6.


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[gabrielef]

If you enjoy wrenching, you'll be good with the D1.

And I'd argue that a one or two owner sub 75k LR4 will be more reliable than a 5,6,7 owner 150k+ LR3. Either way... pay up front, or pay later. It's still a Rover. The timing chain thing is for real, but if you get one that was taken care of with low miles and you do 5-6k oil changes it isn't as big of a deal as you think.

I bought our 2013 LR4 back at the beginning of October with 42K miles. About to do my second oil change already.


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[tacocat]

@Carson G Thanks, that’s good to know. Information on that engine is pretty sparse. It’s a common Ford derivative, but one thing I have learned in all my wrenching is the biggest engine in any platform will have the greatest knowledge base.

@XJLI I can’t argue with that, but I don’t like the styling of the D4. Too blingy. I’d RRS SC before a D4. I think the only thing that would prevent me owning a D1 is the shear lack of availability when/if I sell my 80.

 

[Carson G]

@Carson G Thanks, that’s good to know. Information on that engine is pretty sparse. It’s a common Ford derivative, but one thing I have learned in all my wrenching is the biggest engine in any platform will have the greatest knowledge base.

The most of the real technical stuff on the engine can be found on most of the popular Ford forums. Most everything else is easy enough to figure out. One plus side is changing spark plugs is cake on the V6, a full set of plugs for the V6 is the same price as one plug for the VThey also mounted the alternator up high on the engine like they traditionally are instead of down at the bottom like on the Jag V8’s. It’s also a cast iron block but it does have aluminum heads. So if you overheat it you’ll probably jack the heads up but the block will probably be fine, thankfully heads aren’t that expensive.

The two biggest down sides to the engine are the timing chain configuration it has one chain at the front and one at the back, so if you have to change them or the passenger side head gasket you have to pull the engine. One positive to that is the tools and parts are cheap and frankly doing timing chains on either of the Jag V8’s while in the vehicle are just as much work. The other downside is the fact the engine isn’t a V8, It doesn’t have as much power and it doesn’t sound as good.

I however have enjoyed mine as have most people that own them.

 

[Carson G]

No engine rebuilds after 273,491 miles, I think the V8 is a winner. I tow after enough and the V6 wouldn’t cut it for me. It already is anemic at altitude, I can’t imagine a V6.


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Oh no doubt the 4.4 is a tank of an engine. No argument there. My point about the rebuild cost was more about the cost to maintain the engine. If a full rebuild is only $1k then the rest of the parts aren’t that expensive either. There’s very few LR specific parts. Having driven both at sea level there’s not as much difference as you would think. I mean they’re only 400cc apart in displacement. The 4.0 is also a very torquey engine with a nice flat torque curve.

Basically it’s slightly slower but just as reliable while being a significantly cheaper to maintain. Not to mention it still smokes just about every original Defender. Lol

 

[tacocat]

@Highlander It seems the hardest parts to find for Disco 1s are the door cards. Luckily, they only came in one color. I believe most other soft goods are available as OEM or quality repops.

@Carson G there seems to be a fair number of V6 units available. It seems most are lower mileage as well. They just have a less popular following. This might change in time, especially with the release of the ARB locker which makes the HD pack not being so elusive.

 

[Wander]

Watch the rear floor under the carpet and pad on the D1, that can be a bad area for rust and unless you look, you have no idea it’s happening. I’ve owned a couple D1’s - the 97 5 speed was awesome and is being cared for by a close friend now. That drivetrain is an excellent set up as the 5 speed really makes the most use of those 180 ponies. A bonus was that I could hear the induction through my snorkel as I worked up through the gears. Getting ready to pick up a fully kitted , low mileage LR3 this weekend that will be my new DD and escape pod. The D2 needs some freshening and I know the D3 well, looking forward to the refinement of the D3 while tackling Atlanta traffic.

 

[03Evan]

LR3 is a much better and more reliable vehicle all the way around.

The D1 definitely has it perks being coil sprung with straight axles and a large amount of aftermarket support BUT the LR3 has a bulletproof engine (as long as you get the 4.4).

My LR3 is currently at 304k miles on the original engine, transmission, and transfer case.


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[gabrielef]

LR3 is a much better and more reliable vehicle all the way around.

The D1 definitely has it perks being coil sprung with straight axles and a large amount of aftermarket support BUT the LR3 has a bulletproof engine (as long as you get the 4.4).

My LR3 is currently at 304k miles on the original engine, transmission, and transfer case.


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You’re the first person I’ve come across who has a higher mileage than me. Hitting 300K in about 26K miles.


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[03Evan]

I should add that if you decide to go LR4 over LR3, set aside $5k for timing chain guides unless the previous owner has documentation that they were done.


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[gabrielef]

I should add that if you decide to go LR4 over LR3, set aside $5k for timing chain guides unless the previous owner has documentation that they were done.


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ESPECIALLY 2010-2012 LR4’s. The updated parts were added by 2013 production but I hear cutting your oil changes to half the mileage due will help a lot in avoiding doing the chains.


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