Yeah IMO it just creates more problems from a parts availability stand point.
Disco 1 vs Disco 3 (LR3)
- Thread starter tacocat
- Start date
gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
My $0.02 as someone who has owned, driven for extended periods, wheeled, and substantially wrenched on a D1, D2, and D3 (currently). I also have a RRC LWB, wife drives a RRSC, dad just traded a D4 for new Defender. Get the 3 all day, every day. I wasn’t a fan of my D2 very much at all.
My D1 (97 with GEMS) was reliable enough that I drove it from TX to FL several times a year, and never had any major mechanical issues, but there was always something “sort of” not working on it, primarily electrical stuff. The beauty of it was that it was designed to be worked on. If you’re a mechanic, you know what I mean. The fuel pump is changed out by STANDING at the rear cargo door, tank in place. There are no ball joints to wear out, you simply remove shims from the kingpins as they wear. Diffs are the same front and rear, oil can be changed with a crescent wrench, etc. If I was going somewhere extremely remote for a very long time, the D1 is better to “bush mechanic.” It’s not a major issue for most places in NA as parts availability (or lack of) is the same. Bust a coolant reservoir, and you’re waiting on one, it’s not something commonly stocked.
My 3 has been great, I’ve done some normal wear items (alternator, radiator, needs LCA bushings, etc). It takes more effort and finesse to work on if you have very limited tools laying in the dirt in the middle of nowhere, but it’s by no means frustrating. What I’ve enjoyed the most is the lack of troubleshooting and intermittent problems. For the most part, each issue has one well documented fix, you do it and that’s all.
I also much prefer the 3 interior to the 4 in terms of the analog dash, layout of the EAS controls, Terrain response knob, and general functionality of it (and over the new Defender FWIW). I find the 4.4 V8 to be sufficient for everything besides towing an enclosed trailer at interstate speeds, it cannot remain in 6th gear so it gets terrible mileage. My only other substantial complaint is the 20 gallon tank isn’t enough. I wish the 3 had been available with the 4.2 Supercharged V8 and 26 gallon tank from the RR.
From an off road standpoint, my D1 had 32” BFG KM2’s on it, the 3 has the same size BFG KO2’s. IMO the traction control on the 3 more than makes up for any perceived mechanical advantage the 1 has, unless you’re adding lockers. It would be nice to be able to manually lock the CDL on the 3, rather than waiting for it to slip and engage on its own in certain situations. I have taken both of them into places most would be shocked by.
My D1 (97 with GEMS) was reliable enough that I drove it from TX to FL several times a year, and never had any major mechanical issues, but there was always something “sort of” not working on it, primarily electrical stuff. The beauty of it was that it was designed to be worked on. If you’re a mechanic, you know what I mean. The fuel pump is changed out by STANDING at the rear cargo door, tank in place. There are no ball joints to wear out, you simply remove shims from the kingpins as they wear. Diffs are the same front and rear, oil can be changed with a crescent wrench, etc. If I was going somewhere extremely remote for a very long time, the D1 is better to “bush mechanic.” It’s not a major issue for most places in NA as parts availability (or lack of) is the same. Bust a coolant reservoir, and you’re waiting on one, it’s not something commonly stocked.
My 3 has been great, I’ve done some normal wear items (alternator, radiator, needs LCA bushings, etc). It takes more effort and finesse to work on if you have very limited tools laying in the dirt in the middle of nowhere, but it’s by no means frustrating. What I’ve enjoyed the most is the lack of troubleshooting and intermittent problems. For the most part, each issue has one well documented fix, you do it and that’s all.
I also much prefer the 3 interior to the 4 in terms of the analog dash, layout of the EAS controls, Terrain response knob, and general functionality of it (and over the new Defender FWIW). I find the 4.4 V8 to be sufficient for everything besides towing an enclosed trailer at interstate speeds, it cannot remain in 6th gear so it gets terrible mileage. My only other substantial complaint is the 20 gallon tank isn’t enough. I wish the 3 had been available with the 4.2 Supercharged V8 and 26 gallon tank from the RR.
From an off road standpoint, my D1 had 32” BFG KM2’s on it, the 3 has the same size BFG KO2’s. IMO the traction control on the 3 more than makes up for any perceived mechanical advantage the 1 has, unless you’re adding lockers. It would be nice to be able to manually lock the CDL on the 3, rather than waiting for it to slip and engage on its own in certain situations. I have taken both of them into places most would be shocked by.
This is a great thread. I’d like to add that an
RRC isn’t out of the question either, but their recent values equate to them being very expensive or very beat.
It does seem parts availability (especially interior) is better on Disco 1’s vs RRC. It appears the only drawbacks to an LR3 is finding a good one, and that dropped sockets will no longer fall straight to the ground.
RRC isn’t out of the question either, but their recent values equate to them being very expensive or very beat.
It does seem parts availability (especially interior) is better on Disco 1’s vs RRC. It appears the only drawbacks to an LR3 is finding a good one, and that dropped sockets will no longer fall straight to the ground.
blueberry.taco
Active member
I'm a little late to the party, but I owned a disco1 for a while and thoroughly enjoyed it.
but everything they say about how it always rains inside a rover was true. it took a bit of time and effort to seal it up.
with a mild OME lift and removing the swaybars, it was a joy offroad though.
the only major issue I had (after spending a couple weeks fixing it up from a neglectful previous several owners, including needing a new t-case) was the fan clutch failed "open" which caused it to get super hot. (i was terrified of popping a head gasket but that actually didn't happen). JB weld was used as a trail fix to fully lock the clutch engaged and it was fine until I was able to drive to a parts store with a GM fan clutch that was basically a bolt-on (with drilling out some holes bigger) and it was fine after that.
oh and it leaked oil. a lot. I tried sealing it up for a while but it was a lost cause. it was easier to just keep topping of the oil.
so my opinion: if you like / don't mind wrenching on stuff, the disco1 is a great choice, but you will probably want to be able to do some field repairs by yourself, which as someone mentioned previously, is pretty easy to do.
I have no opinions or experience with an LR3, but a buddy had an LR4 and it seemed to cost him a lot of repair moneys for only driving it on the road
and some reminiscent photos for enjoyment (sorry if this is too many pictures, but IMO the disco just looks so damn good)
but everything they say about how it always rains inside a rover was true. it took a bit of time and effort to seal it up.
with a mild OME lift and removing the swaybars, it was a joy offroad though.
the only major issue I had (after spending a couple weeks fixing it up from a neglectful previous several owners, including needing a new t-case) was the fan clutch failed "open" which caused it to get super hot. (i was terrified of popping a head gasket but that actually didn't happen). JB weld was used as a trail fix to fully lock the clutch engaged and it was fine until I was able to drive to a parts store with a GM fan clutch that was basically a bolt-on (with drilling out some holes bigger) and it was fine after that.
oh and it leaked oil. a lot. I tried sealing it up for a while but it was a lost cause. it was easier to just keep topping of the oil.
so my opinion: if you like / don't mind wrenching on stuff, the disco1 is a great choice, but you will probably want to be able to do some field repairs by yourself, which as someone mentioned previously, is pretty easy to do.
I have no opinions or experience with an LR3, but a buddy had an LR4 and it seemed to cost him a lot of repair moneys for only driving it on the road
and some reminiscent photos for enjoyment (sorry if this is too many pictures, but IMO the disco just looks so damn good)
Yeah that’s a not something you do on a LR3.
Every rig has a don’t get that part wet. The distributor on the FZJ80 is a big one. I did appreciate the seller’s honesty and frankness. I’ll have to inquire further once they get it back.
Yeah IIRC there’s a ECU right behind the battery that hates water.
DiscoDavis
Explorer
If you want it to be a toy or a weekend getaround machine, not a commuter or everyday family car, sure get a D1. The 5 speed is the most fun and the flexibility is better (had to bump start one several times over the years). Unfortunately unless you are on top of the trans output shaft/TC input, all the engine mounts, the frame bushings, the prop shaft joints, the diffs, axle shafts, wheel hubs, etc., that car will be a rubber banding machine with the V8 (the diesels have less of an issue). The auto I have not seen any rubber banding or serious perceived slop as that transmission does a good job of eating up play. For regular commutes, all weather driving, off road driving, long distance trips with family or friends, the LR3 is a good choice. It is quieter, faster, better handling, more comfortable, and safer.
I have not seen anyone mention here in the thread but the unspoken demon of the NAS D1's is the interior. The plastic quality is so bad compared to anything modern, even defender from similar years or range rover holds up better. You will break interior pieces that are just nigh impossible to find and you will (like me) start hoarding any rare pieces you find because so much interior trim is fragile. Compared to an LR3 which has a far more functional and durable interior, and you can find parts nowadays, not even a fair comparison. The engine serviceability of the V8 D1's is good, I had an easy time changing basic things like fluids, belts, sensors, filters, plugs, wires, etc but the interior and electrics makes me hate it so much when a defender from the same time is so user friendly. The LR3 is also pretty easy to work on. A lot of it is plug and play components, ESPECIALLY in the interior.
The 3.9 was ok, the idle control and throttle control are terrible (ancient stupid computer - this was 14cux). The fuel economy of the D1 was about 9mpg average over 4 years. LR3 is about 13.
The electrics are pretty bad on the D1 compared to the LR3 where everything works well (barring known issues mostly water ingress). I had a check engine light in a D1 for 4 years and an electronic door locking system which refused to work and set the alarm off all the time... the whole car electrically is a nightmare. Don't imagine that because they used D1's as camel trophy cars they are like that because the actual camels are ridiculously simple by comparison and had some of the best non-factory modifications.
The only thing the LR3 does not do the same as D1 is pure simplicity, and probably its potential for serious drive train modification with good aftermarket support. And the D1 is not as simple as a ROW range rover or ROW defender, which is what you will wish you had.
I had an LR3, loved it, then a D1, hated it, dumped tons of money into it chasing a GOOD car experience and sold it at a loss when it was never GOOD, at least compared to my earlier experience with the LR3. I bought a second LR3 which is a GOOD car. As for the D1, If I could have had a base model, 2 door, cloth interior, NO power lock OR windows, and a Tdi, I would have THAT one.
WHATEVER YOU BUY GET IT INSPECTED FIRST.
I have not seen anyone mention here in the thread but the unspoken demon of the NAS D1's is the interior. The plastic quality is so bad compared to anything modern, even defender from similar years or range rover holds up better. You will break interior pieces that are just nigh impossible to find and you will (like me) start hoarding any rare pieces you find because so much interior trim is fragile. Compared to an LR3 which has a far more functional and durable interior, and you can find parts nowadays, not even a fair comparison. The engine serviceability of the V8 D1's is good, I had an easy time changing basic things like fluids, belts, sensors, filters, plugs, wires, etc but the interior and electrics makes me hate it so much when a defender from the same time is so user friendly. The LR3 is also pretty easy to work on. A lot of it is plug and play components, ESPECIALLY in the interior.
The 3.9 was ok, the idle control and throttle control are terrible (ancient stupid computer - this was 14cux). The fuel economy of the D1 was about 9mpg average over 4 years. LR3 is about 13.
The electrics are pretty bad on the D1 compared to the LR3 where everything works well (barring known issues mostly water ingress). I had a check engine light in a D1 for 4 years and an electronic door locking system which refused to work and set the alarm off all the time... the whole car electrically is a nightmare. Don't imagine that because they used D1's as camel trophy cars they are like that because the actual camels are ridiculously simple by comparison and had some of the best non-factory modifications.
The only thing the LR3 does not do the same as D1 is pure simplicity, and probably its potential for serious drive train modification with good aftermarket support. And the D1 is not as simple as a ROW range rover or ROW defender, which is what you will wish you had.
I had an LR3, loved it, then a D1, hated it, dumped tons of money into it chasing a GOOD car experience and sold it at a loss when it was never GOOD, at least compared to my earlier experience with the LR3. I bought a second LR3 which is a GOOD car. As for the D1, If I could have had a base model, 2 door, cloth interior, NO power lock OR windows, and a Tdi, I would have THAT one.
WHATEVER YOU BUY GET IT INSPECTED FIRST.
85_Ranger4x4
Well-known member
Don't we all... they don't exactly grow on trees in NA though.
Single digit/low teens mpg would kind of get old in a hurry.
I’ll counter @DiscoDavis, as daily D1 driver who sold a ‘14 FJ to get into a ‘99 D1.
A D1 is magnificently simple to keep on the road. I purchased mine for $800 and assumed it needed EVERYTHING I could poss replace on it. I put several weeks of time into changing all the fluids, rebuilt both axles including brakes, rebuilt both driveshafts, replaced every suspension bushing and all shocks, all the rod ends, new tires, aligned it, and replacing all the engine’s hoses, belts, gaskets, and ignition components, and O2 sensors.
Around 35 days from limping it home I drove it to Tobermory, Ontario(1600 miles round trip) it averaged 16mpg on the trip which is only .2 mpg worse than the 14 year newer FJ it replaced. To register in my county/state it has to have the check engine light off, so getting it running in good order was top priority so I could get tags on it. It has been a phenomenal daily driver. The interior looks hammered, but the factory radio, heat, AC, heated seats, and controls all function regardless of appearance. I’ve put 30k miles on it so far and am planning on many, many more.
A D1 is magnificently simple to keep on the road. I purchased mine for $800 and assumed it needed EVERYTHING I could poss replace on it. I put several weeks of time into changing all the fluids, rebuilt both axles including brakes, rebuilt both driveshafts, replaced every suspension bushing and all shocks, all the rod ends, new tires, aligned it, and replacing all the engine’s hoses, belts, gaskets, and ignition components, and O2 sensors.
Around 35 days from limping it home I drove it to Tobermory, Ontario(1600 miles round trip) it averaged 16mpg on the trip which is only .2 mpg worse than the 14 year newer FJ it replaced. To register in my county/state it has to have the check engine light off, so getting it running in good order was top priority so I could get tags on it. It has been a phenomenal daily driver. The interior looks hammered, but the factory radio, heat, AC, heated seats, and controls all function regardless of appearance. I’ve put 30k miles on it so far and am planning on many, many more.
Colin Hughes
Explorer
I put 345,000 of the 440,000 km on my first D1. Only towed once when the starter went. Could have bump started it as it was still a 5 speed at the time, later converted to auto, but was busy so had it shipped to the shop and picked it up next day. Never had to do head gaskets either. Sold it to buy a P38 which was actually fairly reliable too. My next D1 was a 300tdi from Japan, converted to LHD. Over 950 km per tank, great. In hindsight, never should have sold it bit when it got below -10C here (most of the winter), it never warmed up. I replaced it with an LR3. Two days in, lights and warning chimes, bumpstops, no start. Seems some brilliant engineer figured running the Canbus wiring outside the body through the rear wheel arch, subjecting it to all the road salt and grim was a good idea. Wasn't the first time this issue caused me grief. Let's see, 3 coolant tanks, a rad, 2 coolant tee's, instrument cluster, multiple Canbus wiring issues, a front end droop that could never be fully figured out/parts swapped, switched to coils, AB override module was defective. Finally had enough, bought a 4Runner. Almost two years later, three oil changes is all it's needed. But, did get another D1, a 1998 LSE. However, due to Covid and the entertainment industry getting hammered by it, I had to sell it this past summer to help cover bills. Disappointing for sure. Hopefully I can get another one day. I look at the LR3/4 currently for sale and think, yes, I'd love to have another but I don't think it will happen. Too many bad memories of all the issues. Love the D1 though.
gabrielef
Well-known member
Unless you bought that LR3 new, sounds like the previous owner didn’t take good care of the truck. Fairly common unfortunately. They need to be maintained on time and more often in harsh environments (even as noted in the owners manual). This is how I’ve reached 275K and still climbing.
If that front end was dropping (equally?) and rear end wasn’t, I’d guess the center valve block, the front valve block, or line fitting (if not an actual line itself. The whole system is pretty simple in design.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If that front end was dropping (equally?) and rear end wasn’t, I’d guess the center valve block, the front valve block, or line fitting (if not an actual line itself. The whole system is pretty simple in design.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Colin Hughes
Explorer
I bought the LR3 from my LR master tech friend and he had gone over it, new control arms, EAS compressor, coolant tank, wiring before I bought it.
Yeah, as I had access to parts to swap in/out, we tried both centre and front valve block, even swapped in Arnott airbags and I paid to have an air line replaced but she still kept dropping. The odometer sitting at about 230,000 miles when I sold it on.
Yup, maybe I got a lemon but I like the feel in my pocketbook with only a $250 outlay for vehicle maintenance in just under two years and being able to use regular gas.
That said, when we recover from this Covid and I get back to lighting concerts, I'll be putting some cash aside in case a nice D1 magically appears. Lord knows I've got enough parts in my basement from stripping two of them to keep it running for years
Yeah, as I had access to parts to swap in/out, we tried both centre and front valve block, even swapped in Arnott airbags and I paid to have an air line replaced but she still kept dropping. The odometer sitting at about 230,000 miles when I sold it on.
Yup, maybe I got a lemon but I like the feel in my pocketbook with only a $250 outlay for vehicle maintenance in just under two years and being able to use regular gas.
That said, when we recover from this Covid and I get back to lighting concerts, I'll be putting some cash aside in case a nice D1 magically appears. Lord knows I've got enough parts in my basement from stripping two of them to keep it running for years