Disco3 expected repairs

[SaintEvil]

Looking to buy a LR3/disco3 in the 80 to 110,000 miles range. Probably buying from the typical soccer mom owner, but just curious what repairs I can expect immediately and ballpark costs?

timing chain for every vehicle is around 100k
I've heard the compressor should be replaced at 70-80, would that be true of one that wasn't off roaded much?
at what miles will the suspension need replaced?
I heard one guy say that the differential will absolutely go out and it's 4-5k to have that fixed. That's not right is it?

Is there anything else I should be expecting? Thanks for any help you can give me, and I hope to have a Disco3 soon (I hate the LR3 name, so I stick with the Disco name).

 

[MontyMog]

about 6 months ago I bought an 08 lr3 with 89k on the clock. Don't know if it was a soccer mom rig but I know it had been taken care of. Before I bought it I could tell they had replaced both front air shocks, the front valve block and the compressor. I also checked and found that it hadn't been dealer maintained, if that was good or bad idk yet.
So to answer your question..... expect the sun roof to leak, replace the gas cap at some point, lower control arms, and buy a Gap IID too for about $500. As for suspension, get under it and look for replaced parts, on a vehicle with that many miles a new part is gonna stand out. On my front shocks I could see they were made in 2013, rears were still 2008 (big white sticker)

Lastly, before I bought mine I researched for months. Over the course of those months I saved numerous post, threads, DIY, and repair post. Out of the hundreds of files I saved....I only found one guy (who posted on many forums) to have had a diff issue. Just to be safe I cracked my rear diff open, not a speck of rust. Judging from the condition of the bolts, road grime, and build up Im 80% sure that was the first time the fluid was changed.

 

[srschick]

proper maintenance is key to LR3 longevity.
does it have maintenance records? oil changes?
You should at the least look at diff and transfer case fluid changes. There's a chance the lower control arms may have been replaced already, ask about that.
Timing chains don't require the "mandatory" change at a certain milage as timing belts do.
At the very least, find a reputable independent foreign car shop in your area, especially one that has knowledge with Land Rovers. get an inspection before purchase.

I'll throw this out there as well - If you're mechanically inclined and internet savvy, many of the fixes can be done yourself, such as the control arms.

 

[Colin Hughes]

Have to say I hadn't heard the gas cap thing yet or thought about it but, mine's been throwing a CEL light on and off over the winter which resets after a few cycles, can't nail it down to anything specific on the Autologic, was thinking water in the fuel because of the extreme changes in temperature but maybe it's the gas cap letting a bit of air in.

 

[Scott Brady]

Air bags and A-arm bushings for sure. Most likely a compressor too. I believe the diff issues were on early cars. If the airbags have not been changed, I would do so preemptively, at least in the front

 

[srschick]

as far as the compressor, you may want to look into one of the "refurb" kits to change the seals and dryer desiccant .

 

[jhawk]

Have to say I hadn't heard the gas cap thing yet or thought about it but, mine's been throwing a CEL light on and off over the winter which resets after a few cycles, can't nail it down to anything specific on the Autologic, was thinking water in the fuel because of the extreme changes in temperature but maybe it's the gas cap letting a bit of air in.

I've just started getting the p0441 code, and have had a rough idle until the truck warms up. All started with the winter gas.

Jim

 

[A.J.M]

Generally at that mileage I would consider the following.

Knocks from front over bumps are ball joints, knock under braking is lower arm bushes. Remove whole arm and fit new one solves that issue.
I would check the drop links and ARB bushes as well as they may need changed. Both are easy driveway jobs.

Jack up the rear and support on stands. Give the wheel a shake, any movement will show the rear upper arms need changed, I would change the lowers and hub bushes at the same time.
Again, check for drop links and arb bushes.

Diff failure is rare and doesn't cost $4000. You can upgrade to full air locking arb diffs front and rear for less than that!

I would get the autobox oil flushed as ZF say it should be every 60-75k.
Wheel bearings at the front can go at 100k.

The hitachi compressor fitted to the 3 is good for 70k or 5-7 years of use.
The 4 has a AMK compressor and is much better for life span. Not heard of many failures of that yet. Some pipe work mods and a software update will have the AMK running in a 3 with no issues.

Consider changing the battery every 3-5 years. Check the alternator.
The 3/4 have many systems and a good electrical supply keeps it happy. Many fault codes and lights on start up can be traced to a failing battery or alternator.

Address the wear and tear items and keep it services and they will run for years and cover space ship miles.

 

[SaintEvil]

Thanks for the info everyone! Hopefully I can post some pictures of a Land Rover soon.