Discovery 2 Vs GX470

[johohoward]

I’m getting into my first overland build.
I have a budget of $8,500
As the topic suggests I’m considering the Disco2 or Gx470 Open to other suggestions)

Purpose, I own a business and receive a passive income. I will be going to sporting events like Redbull Rampage here in Utah, and surf competitions on the west coast.
I need something that’s ideal for distance travel and storage. I also have a growing addiction for wildlife photography witch means camping for extended periods and driving into remote places.

I have driven my grandmothers GX and she absolutely loves it. It’s a great vehicle but I’m not completely sold. I have not driven a Disco of any kind, I have talked to owners and they may be biased. I have foolishly fallen for the disco’s looks and curb appeal.
This car will also be my daily driver witch is a joke because I work from home. I do go fishing, biking, snowboarding etc.. multiple times a week but all that’s less then 15 miles from home.

I understand to a small degree what owing a discovery 2 means.
I also know what owning a GX means since one has been in the family since new.

So I ask the more experienced audience for there opinion.


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[OregonGX]

I think GX470 and LR3 are more comparable platforms. Having owned both the GX470 and LR3.

If you are truly pitting the D2 against the GX, as much as it pains me to say I would vote GX based on the powerplant alone. The 2UZ-FE is legendary, Rover V8s are legendary for all the wrong reasons.

Now, it is a little unclear, are you getting a family hookup on the GX? In the open market, you are going to be buying a very high mileage GX for your budget.

Again, another great reason to look at the LR3 as your budget will go a little further with LR as you won't be buying the Toyota reputation (it is earned, don't get me wrong).

Do you have room in your budget for sorting the vehicle beyond the purchase price, or is that your all-in number? And what are your mod plans?

I'm in the Portland Oregon area and we have a couple of mechanics and sources for late model Land Rovers that could help you find a well-sorted example of either if your search is coming up short.

 

[nickw]

I’m getting into my first overland build.
I have a budget of $8,500
As the topic suggests I’m considering the Disco2 or Gx470 Open to other suggestions)

Purpose, I own a business and receive a passive income. I will be going to sporting events like Redbull Rampage here in Utah, and surf competitions on the west coast.
I need something that’s ideal for distance travel and storage. I also have a growing addiction for wildlife photography witch means camping for extended periods and driving into remote places.

I have driven my grandmothers GX and she absolutely loves it. It’s a great vehicle but I’m not completely sold. I have not driven a Disco of any kind, I have talked to owners and they may be biased. I have foolishly fallen for the disco’s looks and curb appeal.
This car will also be my daily driver witch is a joke because I work from home. I do go fishing, biking, snowboarding etc.. multiple times a week but all that’s less then 15 miles from home.

I understand to a small degree what owing a discovery 2 means.
I also know what owning a GX means since one has been in the family since new.

So I ask the more experienced audience for there opinion.


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Nowhere in your post do you mention 'offroad'. Do you need a offroad rig? I honestly would think about something like a Subaru Wagon, you'll get more car for your $ vs a GX, cheaper to maintain and since you are driving big miles, much more reasonable MPG.

 

[johohoward]

I think GX470 and LR3 are more comparable platforms. Having owned both the GX470 and LR3.

If you are truly pitting the D2 against the GX, as much as it pains me to say I would vote GX based on the powerplant alone. The 2UZ-FE is legendary, Rover V8s are legendary for all the wrong reasons.

Now, it is a little unclear, are you getting a family hookup on the GX? In the open market, you are going to be buying a very high mileage GX for your budget.

Again, another great reason to look at the LR3 as your budget will go a little further with LR as you won't be buying the Toyota reputation (it is earned, don't get me wrong).

Do you have room in your budget for sorting the vehicle beyond the purchase price, or is that your all-in number? And what are your mod plans?

I'm in the Portland Oregon area and we have a couple of mechanics and sources for late model Land Rovers that could help you find a well-sorted example of either if your search is coming up short.

No family hookups, G-Ma is Taking the GX to the grave.
In Utah there’s a good amount of deals to be had. well taken care of examples with 180k miles have been willing to sell for 4.800.

“All in” would be 10.5
I start with the LandRover and the conversation of buy stock or modded. I must emmet my knowledge Is limited here.

The GX I would buy from a grandma not mine. Their clean and mostly never abused.
Quite few are from out of state, like Oregon.

My Off Roading would be moderate,
I would put a 2 inch lift on the GX and 32s.
If I where to buy an LR1 or 2 I would like see more capability.

All I hear about the LR3 is bad news.
Im always open to new information. Enlighten me

I appreciate your offer, that could be a tremendous help. Oregon is never to far for the Right Deal.


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[EricTyrrell]

The Disco2 is more likely to leave you walking back to civilization or reaching help in some way. It's also more likely to require more investment in maintenance. If you're prepared for that and you must have the D2's character, then go for it. If not, I'd go for the GX or something else.

 

[OregonGX]

All I hear about the LR3 is bad news.
Im always open to new information. Enlighten me

My mechanic calls them the Camry of Land Rovers, his personal LR3 has 230K miles and he services one that regularly goes to the Arctic that is approaching 300k on the original power train. The Jag 4.4 is very reliable and doesn't eat head gaskets like breakfast cereal like Rover V8.

 

[Howski]

I’d second all of the comments by OregonGX. Not to mention the air suspension in the LR3 is very comfortable and you can add a mild lift with an adjustment to the air suspension computer. I’ll also note that for the moderate roading you cited either vehicle with a set of decent tires will likely handle most of the terrain you encounter

 

[EricTyrrell]

My mechanic calls them the Camry of Land Rovers, his personal LR3 has 230K miles and he services one that regularly goes to the Arctic that is approaching 300k on the original power train. The Jag 4.4 is very reliable and doesn't eat head gaskets like breakfast cereal like Rover V8.

It's true, the 4.4 is relatively reliable, but you failed to mention the rest of the vehicle. Lackluster interior quality, extremely heavy, water pump failure, T-case ECU failures, water ingress related electronics issues, tail-light bulb transmission faults, various types of air-suspension faults, etc. You've probably read about these and more. FWIW, my LR3 at about 115k blew all its coolant out multiple times after the OEM spring clamp failed, and a coolant hose failed on another occasion. Both left me stranded. Always be prepared. YMMV.

 

[johohoward]

The Disco2 is more likely to leave you walking back to civilization or reaching help in some way. It's also more likely to require more investment in maintenance. If you're prepared for that and you must have the D2's character, then go for it. If not, I'd go for the GX or something else.

Something about the well done discovery subtly screams 911 Meets Dakar. In my opinion aesthetically you can’t get much better.
Does that compensate for what’s wrong with the car? I don’t know that’s why I’m here.
Personally leaning towards the Discovery.
I built a 72 super beetle with my grandfather I recently sold the Volks to get into something more practical for my life style.

There’s something special about building a car. will I be missing that with the GX?probably. I have to make a decision between practicality, or something with more soul.
I trying to figure out if the discovery is that soul.


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[crystalclear]

Lr3 all the way - more comfortable, plenty capable, and definitely more reliable overall (every make/model will have outliers)

If you insist on a d2 - get the cheapest d2 you can with a decent interior (99-01), pay 3-4k, then spend 3-4k doing a complete refresh

 

[Victory_Overland]

All I hear about the LR3 is bad news.
Im always open to new information. Enlighten me

127k on my LR3; bought as the second owner around 63k. Maintained per the LR3 service interval suggestion and zero problems outside of the Camry I ran over. I'd be more than happy to be added to your list of sources to ask about a properly maintained LR3 and what it will get you in reliability. There is just no way to tell on these older sale vehicles what a previous owner as or has not done so look at the service interval list I attached and expect at a minimum around these mileage these things should have been done; if they haven't, then it is likely on you to make that happen or expect issues just as any vehicle of that age and mileage will give you.

Finding a really nice and nicely maintained LR3 at your budget is not hard at all and surely not out of range. I would just add that sometimes the budget doesn't take into consideration what probably should be done immediately on a used vehicle purchase and that is cover the gaps in maintenance schedule which may lead to additional budgetary considerations.

The Disco2 is more likely to leave you walking back to civilization or reaching help in some way. It's also more likely to require more investment in maintenance. If you're prepared for that and you must have the D2's character, then go for it. If not, I'd go for the GX or something else.

From what I hear and that has been proven, do the sleeve mod and gaskets and it's bulletproof after that. Sure was a problem no doubt, but there are definitely a ton of guys floating around on "fixed" D2 overheat issues with zero problems. Again, previous maintenance history is key and anyone can expect a high mileage vehicle to need a reset on some components; not really any excuse for the overheat but there is a quality fix out there if you are willing to go into it. As @EricTyrrell states; if the engine work has not been done you are probably gambling unless you intend to do it in which case you can pick up a really nice D2 for cheap to cover that rebuild or swap.

Pay attention to the last page on usage and what the interval commitment is. I make the assumption this is where the vehicle has lived when I bought it even though I knew it was a mall-crawler; I did everything on the list to include "Severe Conditions List"; the clock is now reset under my responsibility at that time. Hope this helps how I view the interval when bought it and what to look for; I then go 18" each check to confirm integrity of the adjoining components.

My mechanic calls them the Camry of Land Rovers, his personal LR3 has 230K miles and he services one that regularly goes to the Arctic that is approaching 300k on the original power train. The Jag 4.4 is very reliable and doesn't eat head gaskets like breakfast cereal like Rover V8.

Yep, I even ran over a Camry with mine and it was the only issue I have ever had. I am approaching the mileage where I plan to do higher mileage resets such as a dedicated injector cleaning, new O2's, and maybe CATS and that is solely based off my history with emissions and performance degradation with these components on just about every vehicle I have owned.

I’d second all of the comments by OregonGX. Not to mention the air suspension in the LR3 is very comfortable and you can add a mild lift with an adjustment to the air suspension computer. I’ll also note that for the moderate roading you cited either vehicle with a set of decent tires will likely handle most of the terrain you encounter

Most comfortable and quite vehicle I have owned and I am confident to say the only thing better in comfort and sound quality is a newer LR/RR. Daily driving or trail riding; the fatigue level is significantly reduced in an LR3 over anything of like year and category to include the GX.

 

[Victory_Overland]

It's true, the 4.4 is relatively reliable, but you failed to mention the rest of the vehicle. Lackluster interior quality, extremely heavy, water pump failure, T-case ECU failures, water ingress related electronics issues, tail-light bulb transmission faults, various types of air-suspension faults, etc. You've probably read about these and more. FWIW, my LR3 at about 115k blew all its coolant out multiple times after the OEM spring clamp failed, and a coolant hose failed on another occasion. Both left me stranded. Always be prepared. YMMV.

Where do I start on this BS?

1) 4.4 is an extremely reliable engine; the numbers and data are out there to prove it. Blaming a coolant issue on a spring clamp is hilarious actually because I'd bet my left nut that at 115K your hoses were probably still OG. Of course if you were following the maintenance schedule you would have not only performed the coolant change but you would have also (any real owner with the slightest of knowledge) would have inspected your entire coolant system for any anomaly's. That's how 95% of us find the real coolant issue which is the T-fitting and sometimes the thermostat housing bottom mate. Again, I don't care what vehicle, coolant hoses and brake lines have a life limit and should be followed. If that clamp did fail, it should have been found during your inspection, don't blame LR if they didn't look at it. Every 12k miles and more under Severe Duty use.

2) Lackluster interior and quality: The LR3 was arguably the last utility variant JLR built. The interior was lightyears ahead of the Defender that was coming off the lines and nobody seemed to care; to say lackluster is relative to who views it and their purpose for it. Keep in mind, almost every component is designed to pop on and off to include the breakaway clips on the bumpers; not sure where interior quality has been an issue with most as I have not experienced this or read this much of anywhere. With the exception of the 8 million screws holding the dash on (Dash cover airbag cracks are a big issue) the rest of the interior can be taken out in about two hours mostly by hand and the rest with two tools. LR4 changed in that aspect as the interior became mainstream and elegant which in turn needed more sound proofing and tighter securing. The LR4 can be had now for $10-14k so look around cuz there are some great deals. Keep in mind timing belts on the LR4; I know they are out of the current budget but just throwing it out there.

3) Yep, she's heavy, built well and extremely survivable in every situation. Can't remember how many airbags that actually work in a Land Rover but they didn't seem to get the same heat as the millions of Toyotas that were pulled for safety not once but twice. Anywho; that weight is a tax in trail mud and gas mileage only but safety, comfort, and ride quality to include off-road. I rear ended a Camry at 15mph and the LR3 drove away to clear the road and the Camry's trunk was in the back seat. I'll take that weight for chassis strength and safety both on and off road over the GX. Google Land Rover and Audi on the Autobahn. When I am in my LR3 I feel 100% safe and the data proves that as well.

4) Water Pump Failure: not sure what the mileage was on that but sounds like someone maybe had some significant coolant issues or lack of care involved in the coolant system like highly corrosive neglect of internals and external components. I did my water pump at 75k because I had an accident; not a hint of a leak. I don't see a bunch of water pump problems listed in the forums at all but I put a Delco one in over the LR one due to cost and over 50k miles and still running leak-less like a champ; maybe someone has some further data on that but I did two water pumps on my F150 and Excursion and my Lexus had one (under warranty 52k miles) in the time that I "didn't" have an LR3 water pump failure.

5) Use JLR factory tail-light bulbs or upgrade to LED bulbs ($50) or LR4 taillights and all of these are solved. Store bought taillight filaments are not vertical like JLR bulbs so when they fail (JLR bulbs rarely fail but they do at times like other lightbulbs) they short-out causing the top and bottom filament to touch; this trips the ABS to think the vehicle has an issue and it goes to limp mode. Again, use JLR vertical filament bulbs or LEDs and you will not have to worry about this problem. Carry spares like you should in all vehicles. Are there some air suspension complications; yes, but generally speaking well maintained you will have little to no issues and you will see this argument all over the forums. But, on that note, for the cost of rebuilding your suspension that will likely need it at high mileage anyway (all vehicles have condition based suspension repairs) you can install the AB OME coil kit and all of your EAS worries are solved. I would say its like adding Bilstein upgrades to your GX

6) Water intrusion issues come from the moonroof drains getting clogged. I've heard of a few cases were the interior drain tubes have broken but I have not witnessed this. I've had many cars/suv/trucks with moonroof drains that needed to be purged/cleaned out, multiple OEMs. It is true if your LR3 drains are clogged they will leak down into the kick plates where there are wire looms and will cause corrosion. Light compressed can air you can easily blow these out on your periodic maintenance schedule.

Just wanted to provide some clarification for the overwhelming amount of LR3 owners and lovers that properly care for our vehicles and not put you in doom and gloom mode like there are tons of problems and the thing just blows up because it's just downright untrue. I just don't think the LR3 or the GX are get in and go vehicles like there are no maintenance considerations on either platform. The OP clearly states he plans to use it for an overland build. A properly maintained vehicle like the GX or LR3 will give you high mileage joy and excitement if you put the effort in on your end as well as both vehicles in this environment will need proper and regular care.

@johohoward Sorry for the novel but feel if I can help provide good and constructive information to help on your decision than I've done my part in what you asked of us readers. PM me for any questions directly if desired. I do not have any GX experience but the neighbor up the street has one and I can research some points if needed.

Ciao

 

[EricTyrrell]

Where do I start on this BS?

1) 4.4 is an extremely reliable engine; the numbers and data are out there to prove it. Blaming a coolant issue on a spring clamp is hilarious actually because I'd bet my left nut that at 115K your hoses were probably still OG. Of course if you were following the maintenance schedule you would have not only performed the coolant change but you would have also (any real owner with the slightest of knowledge) would have inspected your entire coolant system for any anomaly's. That's how 95% of us find the real coolant issue which is the T-fitting and sometimes the thermostat housing bottom mate. Again, I don't care what vehicle, coolant hoses and brake lines have a life limit and should be followed. If that clamp did fail, it should have been found during your inspection, don't blame LR if they didn't look at it. Every 12k miles and more under Severe Duty use.

2) Lackluster interior and quality: The LR3 was arguably the last utility variant JLR built. The interior was lightyears ahead of the Defender that was coming off the lines and nobody seemed to care; to say lackluster is relative to who views it and their purpose for it. Keep in mind, almost every component is designed to pop on and off to include the breakaway clips on the bumpers; not sure where interior quality has been an issue with most as I have not experienced this or read this much of anywhere. With the exception of the 8 million screws holding the dash on (Dash cover airbag cracks are a big issue) the rest of the interior can be taken out in about two hours mostly by hand and the rest with two tools. LR4 changed in that aspect as the interior became mainstream and elegant which in turn needed more sound proofing and tighter securing. The LR4 can be had now for $10-14k so look around cuz there are some great deals. Keep in mind timing belts on the LR4; I know they are out of the current budget but just throwing it out there.

3) Yep, she's heavy, built well and extremely survivable in every situation. Can't remember how many airbags that actually work in a Land Rover but they didn't seem to get the same heat as the millions of Toyotas that were pulled for safety not once but twice. Anywho; that weight is a tax in trail mud and gas mileage only but safety, comfort, and ride quality to include off-road. I rear ended a Camry at 15mph and the LR3 drove away to clear the road and the Camry's trunk was in the back seat. I'll take that weight for chassis strength and safety both on and off road over the GX. Google Land Rover and Audi on the Autobahn. When I am in my LR3 I feel 100% safe and the data proves that as well.

4) Water Pump Failure: not sure what the mileage was on that but sounds like someone maybe had some significant coolant issues or lack of care involved in the coolant system like highly corrosive neglect of internals and external components. I did my water pump at 75k because I had an accident; not a hint of a leak. I don't see a bunch of water pump problems listed in the forums at all but I put a Delco one in over the LR one due to cost and over 50k miles and still running leak-less like a champ; maybe someone has some further data on that but I did two water pumps on my F150 and Excursion and my Lexus had one (under warranty 52k miles) in the time that I "didn't" have an LR3 water pump failure.

5) Use JLR factory tail-light bulbs or upgrade to LED bulbs ($50) or LR4 taillights and all of these are solved. Store bought taillight filaments are not vertical like JLR bulbs so when they fail (JLR bulbs rarely fail but they do at times like other lightbulbs) they short-out causing the top and bottom filament to touch; this trips the ABS to think the vehicle has an issue and it goes to limp mode. Again, use JLR vertical filament bulbs or LEDs and you will not have to worry about this problem. Carry spares like you should in all vehicles. Are there some air suspension complications; yes, but generally speaking well maintained you will have little to no issues and you will see this argument all over the forums. But, on that note, for the cost of rebuilding your suspension that will likely need it at high mileage anyway (all vehicles have condition based suspension repairs) you can install the AB OME coil kit and all of your EAS worries are solved. I would say its like adding Bilstein upgrades to your GX

6) Water intrusion issues come from the moonroof drains getting clogged. I've heard of a few cases were the interior drain tubes have broken but I have not witnessed this. I've had many cars/suv/trucks with moonroof drains that needed to be purged/cleaned out, multiple OEMs. It is true if your LR3 drains are clogged they will leak down into the kick plates where there are wire looms and will cause corrosion. Light compressed can air you can easily blow these out on your periodic maintenance schedule.

Just wanted to provide some clarification for the overwhelming amount of LR3 owners and lovers that properly care for our vehicles and not put you in doom and gloom mode like there are tons of problems and the thing just blows up because it's just downright untrue. I just don't think the LR3 or the GX are get in and go vehicles like there are no maintenance considerations on either platform. The OP clearly states he plans to use it for an overland build. A properly maintained vehicle like the GX or LR3 will give you high mileage joy and excitement if you put the effort in on your end as well as both vehicles in this environment will need proper and regular care.

@johohoward Sorry for the novel but feel if I can help provide good and constructive information to help on your decision than I've done my part in what you asked of us readers. PM me for any questions directly if desired. I do not have any GX experience but the neighbor up the street has one and I can research some points if needed.

Ciao

I’m not getting drug down into writing a novel on this. My LR3 is one data point and ultimately doesn’t matter. All I will say is it was well maintained and when it did fail on numerous occasions it presented no prior signs.

I offered a brief list of potential LR3 issues which you claimed were BS, but then validated each one in detail. Odd. There’s more to the issues than what you covered, but OP can just google this stuff. It’s all well known.

The point is, while maintenance can reduce risk, a more reliable platform like the GX will need less of it. I’d never drive a GX for other reasons though.

 

[rgallant]

As to a Discovery II they are old, you are buying a 16+ year old vehicle of unknown service history.

Things that can go wrong :

• Head gaskets - Aluminum engine running too warm due to emissions requirements. Any big overheat will likely warp the heads to the point of head gasket failure this is not LR specific by they way
• Cracked block or Slipped sleeves - once again the primary cause is overheat. Significant overheat, repeated over a short time generally
• Temp gauge like most modern vehicles is an idiot light not a gauge, by the time it moves it is way too late. For example my Disco went from 176 to 215 deg and that needle never budged
• Driveshaft should be replaced with one that has at least 4 grease points and it needs to be maintained regularly. If it lets go it generally hits the aluminum transmission casing taking out the transmission
• 3 amigos ABS faults this disables your ABS you can stop but it is not ideal - wheel sensors or internal issue with the ABS pump are the normal causes
• Sunroofs they have them and they leak sometimes like every other vehicle with them. It causes issues with the roof material if not corrected
• Water leaks into the cabin from the windshield area, annoying to find and mostly easy to fix

Those are really the big ones.
I am on year 3 with my Disco and had to do head gaskets, did it in my drive way under a tarp it was not really hard to do.
It has never left me stranded and I like driving it, I have lots of off road miles and she just keeps chugging along, but regular maintenance is the key they are not drive and forget.

Like all heavy trucks the fuel economy is poor.

But if I had to replace it would get a 4.4 liter LR3, it is just to hard to find a Disco II in good shape, Toyota and Jeep prices are just too high here.

If you still are on the fence try this site, but remember they are owners and some of them are a little biased :Discovery II website

 

[Victory_Overland]

There is a really nice D2 for sale here in SoCal I found on Offerup but I can't drop $13k on a D2 knowing that the head gaskets do not appear to have been done yet and that mean it hasn't been sleeved.

I would love a D2 for everything about it except the issues you said above.

No doubt any of these older vehicles are going to need more than general upkeep.

There are design and product issues with the LR3 for sure; many are pretty simple fixes that provide little to know maintenance once performed. Should the OEM have rectified these; absolutely! And there are exceptions like other vehicles were some crazy thing breaks or fails or whatever; but that does not mean it is applicable to every LR3 or even a small fraction of them.

By the way, my neighbor up the street just picked up his brand new 2020 Gladiator last Thursday; this week he's driving his wife's Rubicon because the Gladiator is getting recall TC stuff handled. Not sure what for, but he said something to do with electrical and the rear-end! But that thing is nice; stone or flat gray Gladiator Sport and I am sure its going to get a bed rack and RTT installed next week to match the other 3 Jeeps in the circle.