Discovery II Questions

wokkerk

New member
This sounds like something I can tackle. I think I'm going to move forward and start looking for a local D2. I'm in Oregon and there seems to be plenty of them available. Good news is that we don't salt the roads here so rust is a minor issue compared to water. I will check into making sure there aren't any sunroof leak issues when buying.

Thanks again for all your help and being so easy and welcoming! I'll let you guys know how it goes!


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MLu

Adventurer
Coming over from 7-series BMWs, a Subaru and a Passat into a Discovery 2 was a bit of a leap from a wrenching standpoint. Everything seems to have tolerances that you're not used to in German or Japanese cars, where things attach to other things in one way only. But you get used to it. There are some frankly idiotic solutions at times (the oil filter location on the TD5 comes to mind...), but then again life wasn't always roses with ze Germans either.

From a reliability point of view, I can only speak from personal experience. The stuff that has given me the most grief the past 46,000 km have been rusty pipes of various descriptions. One brake line (which has to be routed manually along the bottom since the originals go partly above the frame but under the chassis), the cooler line for the automatic transmission (goes to the front), an ACE pipe and a high-pressure power steering pipe.

In addition to that, I fixed one of the traditional ABS faults by replacing the valves attached to the modulator. 30€ part and three screws once you figured out the problem. The ABS has failed on every single one of my cars at some point or another I believe, so I wouldn't say the D2's ABS is particularly prone to fail. An ACE pipe had rusted through, and the rest of the pipes were probably not far behind so rather than to keep throwing money at it I decided to simply bypass the ACE pump (there are kits available, it was 300€ including parts and about 1,5h of labor at a specialist, the most expensive part being the roller that replaces the pump). Both the transmission line and the power steering were stupidly expensive to repair at a specialist.

Sure, there are electronic gremlins as well. When it rains, the body control unit might get moisture and start throwing up warning lights.

Alright, all of this being said... it's a great truck. Every time I drive it I absolutely love it. More than capable enough off road, far more capable than what I'm comfortable putting it through. Without the ACE it gets quite a bit more lumbering to drive, with ACE it's a dream. It's a future classic, if only because they are about to go extinct as more and more of them develop problems that are uneconomical to fix.

My advice is to find the best and newest one you can, with a solid service history, and to specifically spend time crawling around underneath and inside with a flashlight, a rag and some oil cleaner spray, poking and prodding and taking a good hard look at what the various pipes and joints look like. If it looks like a power steering pipe has been MacGyvered together then my bet would be that some similar line is about to need some MacGyvering too.
 

kcabpilot

Observer
For the ABS Mod, Here are the basic instructions I used years ago. I think I probably did this mod in 2009 and haven't had an issue since.

http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/abs-mod.html

Yes that's the link, I did "Option B" I had purchased a new switch pack but turned out my switches were okay, it was an open circuit in the traces on the embedded circuit card so the bypass worked and I was able to do it on the truck without removing the ABS or disconnecting any brake lines.
 
Ohh boy you sure did open a can of worms on the one .

im not evensure where to start on this one ,

So here I go ... I own 3 land rovers a 97 D1 , 01 D2 , and a 94 RRC . Since all were mentioned I should probably talk about them all .


My D1 is a great truck I have a full Old Man Emu HD lift on in with 245/75 R16 AT's . It performs great off road , but I think the packing space can be a bit of a challenge but then I have a wife and son and a dog. A few months ago the forward "A " clutch went out on the transmission , which required a full transmission rebuild which I have done . And let me tell you what a job that is .
I currently have about 225,000 miles on my D1 I've only used Mobil 1 and Shell Rotella , and truck runs like a top . It's going to need new head gaskets if I want to get any more mileage out of it .

My D2 is also a great truck but I think when BMW became the owner of The Rover group they addressed many of what they thought were shortcomings in the design of the D1 , one of those was the addition of the ZF4 HP 24 transmission , which has in my opinion is a better trans. The D2 is 5 inches longer than the D1 which has come in hany many of times . There are a few things that could be different about the D2 , the Diff lock is one of them . I've got around 152,000 mile on my D2 , I've re done the front cover , because of a large coolant leak from the drivers side (LHD) .

My 94 RRC , oh boy ... Well if you really want to talk about complicated electrics the RRC has the most complicated electrics I've ever seen , My RRC ran for about 8 days after I bought it I'm not complaining about that after all I only spent $650 on it , and I haven't been able to get it running since . I would not recommend an RRC to any one as thier first Rover . Now with that said RRC are incredible vehicles and blast to drive , and just a comfortable as my D2 . But there are relays fuses and crap stuffed everwhere on theses things .

My advice is that if you work on your own vehicles and actually like doing the maintenance, then you will have no problems with owning Land Rovers . As far as the D1 vs. D2 argument it's a hard one but I think I would side with my D2 . It's not that D1's are bad , I just think D2's are more refined for every day life .

And that's my 2p worth

97 D1
01 D2
94 RRC
 

lwg

Member
This sounds like something I can tackle. I think I'm going to move forward and start looking for a local D2. I'm in Oregon and there seems to be plenty of them available. Good news is that we don't salt the roads here so rust is a minor issue compared to water. I will check into making sure there aren't any sunroof leak issues when buying.

Thanks again for all your help and being so easy and welcoming! I'll let you guys know how it goes!


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Where are you in Oregon? I used to live in Portland and Bend. Columbia Roving is run by Todd who's a good friend of mine in Portland, he'd be a good resource for you during your search. Also the Northwest Overland Society (NWOS) is a good local community for trails and other PNW events.


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wokkerk

New member
Where are you in Oregon? I used to live in Portland and Bend. Columbia Roving is run by Todd who's a good friend of mine in Portland, he'd be a good resource for you during your search. Also the Northwest Overland Society (NWOS) is a good local community for trails and other PNW events.


Sent from my Toaster

I live in Portland. Grew up in SW Portland and still live in the area. I have seen the Columbia Roving stickers on many of the cooler Rovers I have seen around. I will check out both of the groups that you mentioned! Thanks!


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Explorer0863

Adventurer
For the ABS Mod, Here are the basic instructions I used years ago. I think I probably did this mod in 2009 and haven't had an issue since.

http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/abs-mod.html

To the original poster, search for the Land Rover Rave Manual to download if you get a D2. It is the factory manual that most of us rely on for the details that are sometimes missed with the interweb. To someone handy with tools and a decent toolset, some patience and ability to google things you will have no issues maintaining and repairing the vehicle yourself. At this point the Discovery 2 have been around a while and the community has more or less encountered every issue you can imagine. One good thing about Land Rovers is the community is relatively small and everybody is always willing to help out a new member!

Thanks for the link!
 

groomez

New member
My Disco 2 is great. It's a 2002 SE (I think).

Know it's achilles heels though. There's a couple things you should do if you get one for preventative maintenance so figure that into your buying decision.

1. Head gasket needs updating with a better part (can do it at home if you're handy)
2. Upgrade front drive shaft.

Honestly that's it. There's a few things that break with age and get old and wear out but you'll find that on mostly any older vehicle.

It's dog**** slow (I have the V8) but I didn't get it to go fast. I have 3 motorcycles for that. It's comfy and can tackle off road obstacles fairly easily.
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
I am envious of the fact that aside from motor and the OEM driveshaft, most everything else on a D2 seems to work. Always thought they were cool.
 

Howski

Well-known member
I am envious of the fact that aside from motor and the OEM driveshaft, most everything else on a D2 seems to work. Always thought they were cool.

I'm convinced headgasket issues are exacerbated by the Dexcool coolant used (and suggested) from the factory. I've had 1 headgasket let go between two 100k + mile D2's. I have had no failures with many miles on traditional green coolant
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Huh, that's too bad. I like dexcool, it lasts a good while in the newer jag motors. Is it eating away at the gasket material on the 4.0/4.6?
 

DNTL740

Adventurer
11 year D2 owner. 01 SE7, been trough two engines, last engine I did I did top hat liners. Apart from the head gaskets this thing has been super reliable, has never left me stranded. My Ace was working awesome until I did a 3 inch lift on it and then it started acting up. With an updated rear bumper your departure angle is not a problem unless you are doing some really tough offroading. I did the rubicon 3 years ago, 33s, with my wife and 3 kids, fully loaded, enough food for 5 days, 60qt refrigerator and not one problem. I would buy another another one in a heartbeat now that I know what it takes to keep it running.
 

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