Trip to Johnson's Shut-ins state park, Meramec caverns, and Elephant rock state park.
DIY Composite Flatbed Camper Build
- Thread starter Terra Ops
- Start date
flatheadrider
New member
I would definitely like to hear about your new idea for panels. I've been watching the whole build closely, and I'm working on plans to build one next year. Thanks for taking the time to document!
rruff
Explorer
Absolutely!
Do you remember the thickness and product model that you ended up using? Vetroresina has a handful of different models/versions. I know it has only been a year, but has it held up well?
I am just north of you in NC. If they make a good FRP, I may use it in my build.
Thanks for all the info in your thread!
I am just north of you in NC. If they make a good FRP, I may use it in my build.
Thanks for all the info in your thread!
House info here; http://aidomes.com/
The original plan was to build a box without the cab-over to minimize weight and cost. An exterior storage rack would have taken its place.
The final decision resulted in the "point" / "snout". Or non aerodynamically challengedThis space serves as sleeping or storage. There is enough room
for two adults to sleep east/west or if your head faces south and curl your body, plenty of space for north/south position. Great for kids too.
After owning a couple cab over campers, my wife and I decided to forego climbing a ladder into bed. Instead, the dinette will be our bed.
The first step in this build was to determine if I could fabricate a substantial panel. The test using 3/4" foam board and single weave frp confirmed that I could.
I would later use 1/2" foam board for the interior framing.
After I located my source for the frp, I decided to go with a stronger double weave high gloss material. The cost for this was $1.61 per square foot. Since the manufacturer was within
driving distance, I saved on shipping.
Thanks for your interest!
Skin specs can be seen on post #26.
It still looks good as new, at least when its clean
Been very happy with their product.
Did a little winter camping last night. Temps dropped to 37. The propex heater did a great job on a minimal setting. No sleeping bag needed just a lite
blanket. Easily maintained temp of 60. Also used 3% of battery. Anxious to try it out when it gets really cold and windy.
blanket. Easily maintained temp of 60. Also used 3% of battery. Anxious to try it out when it gets really cold and windy.
Wow!! Thanks for an enormous amount of info and fantastic documentation. Was thinking about building a more traditional skinned-steel or -alu skeleton camper but "watching" you do it this way makes me want to try.
I am specifically looking for something to hold up to twisting and torquing of its frame and the abuse of washboard roads at speed. How do you feel the bonded panels (both the individual panel laminations and the whole panel/angle alu assembly) have held up to your duty cycle? Based on what I have seen in your writing and your willingness to share your experience, I assume all has gone well but I'm curious to know if you make compromises in how you use it.
The other weird question I have is: you mentioned riveting the angle alu to the interior walls. Are you using normal blind rivets in the fiberglass? I thought that might damage the glass and they'd be prone to pulling out.
Thanks for sharing the build and documenting it so well.
Chris
I am specifically looking for something to hold up to twisting and torquing of its frame and the abuse of washboard roads at speed. How do you feel the bonded panels (both the individual panel laminations and the whole panel/angle alu assembly) have held up to your duty cycle? Based on what I have seen in your writing and your willingness to share your experience, I assume all has gone well but I'm curious to know if you make compromises in how you use it.
The other weird question I have is: you mentioned riveting the angle alu to the interior walls. Are you using normal blind rivets in the fiberglass? I thought that might damage the glass and they'd be prone to pulling out.
Thanks for sharing the build and documenting it so well.
Chris
The Artisan
Adventurer
Hey man just an FYI. I am researching materials for a client build. Called the Southern sales manager about foamular 600. He said it can be up to 1/4" off up or down off the 2". They deal with a co that can cut to 2" but price goes way up. If you get stock your foam most likely wont be even when layed up.
Kevin
My idea for a new panel has different variations. * Cost and weight. If you go with 2" foam board, you will need 4" aluminum angle which increases cost and weight. For 1" foam board, 3" aluminum angle which will decrease cost and weight. This will be a personal preference regarding wall thickness and R value.
Another weight factor is the FRP skin. The double woven is heavier than the single, maybe not by much, but it all adds up.
Cost of the high density foam board is, well, high. Is it really necessary to have high density or can it be achieved another way? Density comes more into play horizontally, while rigidity is more a vertical factor.
The following has not been tested yet. If I were to build another panel I would use all carbon nanotube epoxy. This stuff is strong and rigid. Next would be single weave FRP to save weight.
To save in cost I would use the pink foam board that is easily found at Home Depot or other hardware stores. Then I would lay out a grid on the foam board; for example 1' X 1', and drill a hole at each intersection with either a 3/8 " or 1/2" bit. Panel lamination would be 2 steps. 1'st laminate/epoxy foam to FRP and allow to cure. 2'nd fill the holes with epoxy/laminate other FRP skin.
The epoxy will not only provide rigidity but density too. If you look back at my first post, my first test was on regular 3/4 inch foam board using single weave FRP and non carbon nanotube epoxy. It was strong enough to support my weight of over 200lbs. I would think with the connecting bore holes filled with epoxy, added strength, rigidity, and density could be achieved at a lower price.
I would also look at vacuum bagging the panels or making some sort of jig that would allow placement of jacks to put pressure on the skin while curing.
So in conclusion, cost can be reduced by using regular foam board and weight can be reduced by using smaller aluminum angle and single weave FRP.
Chris, So far my build has held up very well. This type of panel construction is not new to overlanding. I think the key to the twisting and torqueing is a solid foundation and possibly a 3 point attachment. There is a ton of discussion on that in the forum. For my build, the floor is made with double layer plywood for a solid foundation. My flatbed is also rigid and does not flex.
She's no rock climber, but I feel it a very capable rig. As for compromises, I think the only limitations would be that of the truck.
The rivets are normal, nothing fancy. However the main purpose in their use is to help bond the aluminum angle to the fiberglass. Sikaflex 252 is applied first, then the rivets. Once its attached,
there is no moving it
It was good meeting you too. Yeah, got out no problem. I figured if your big rig made it, so could I
Looked like you had some snow waiting for you at home.
IdaSHO
IDACAMPER
FYI, Ive never seen such inconsistencies with DOW products.
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