DIY enclosed trailer frame

[mihunt44]

Hello, new to the site. I’m sure it has been talked about many times before but I’m looking for input/advice on what size/gauge material to use for the frame of a enclosed trailer I am going to be building.
the trailer will be 6’ wide x 10’ x 6’2 interior height, plain rectangular shape. It will be mainly used to haul a freezer, hunting gear, solar panels, etc.
It will be used on rough forest service roads. I am going to install a 3500 # timbren axle less suspension.
I am wondering what size/gauge material to build the main frame out of. Also don’t know if I should just incorporate the tongue and braces in the the main frame or weld them on to the bottom side. Any input from someone who has seen or done something similar would be greatly appreciated.
thank you

 

[jmnielsen]

I build a similar sized trailer a while back.

I used 1/8 wall 2" square tubing for the main, exterior part of the frame, and for the tongue. I used 2x1" rectangular tubing - I believe 12 gauge - for cross beams and other support areas.

I welded an A frame tongue and bracing under the frame, it was just easier that way.

This was for a 5x8 squaredrop camper I built, and the frame was way overbuilt. It's taken a beating over the years though and held strong.

 

[high-and-dry]

Tongue and tongue supports on the bottom its much stronger.

For a 6x10 I would use 2x3 .120 on the tongue/side supports. And probably on the frame rails too, but you could use 2x3 085 as well. most of the stress is on the tongue and what its attached too. I would use 2x3 .085 as cross rails.

But then again I use 2x3 on everything, its stronger than 2x2. 2x3 .085 is stronger and lighter than 2x2 .120.

Below is my frame, floor is 5'6" wide and 10 long. tongue is 2x3 120, everything else is 2x3 085, not including the angle around the edge. It weights less than 300 lbs not including axle, and could easily carry 3k lbs.

edit its sized with 31 10.5 r15 tires to be 78 wide so it does not need extra lighting.

 

[billiebob]

I am going to install a 3500 # timbren axle less suspension.

Follow the Timbren spec for frame mounts, the Timbren Axleless suspension puts way more stress on the mounting points than a leaf spring suspension.

 

[Timbren]

Very nice choice!

 

[mihunt44]

Thanks everyone for the input, would love to hear from others who have some experience.
What would you use for the walls/top? 1x1 strong enough? Seems like it could be a pain to weld/get square

 

[high-and-dry]

1x1 .065 is plenty strong, yes it takes a little more skill to weld. As for getting it square, lots of tack welds and measuring, once you get most of it tacked it will be pretty solid.

Edit you dont need a stell structure depending on how you build. look at sawtooth ultimate build thread here, no steel in the wall or roof

 

[jwiereng]

Tongue and tongue supports on the bottom its much stronger.

For a 6x10 I would use 2x3 .120 on the tongue/side supports. And probably on the frame rails too, but you could use 2x3 085 as well. most of the stress is on the tongue and what its attached too. I would use 2x3 .085 as cross rails.

But then again I use 2x3 on everything, its stronger than 2x2. 2x3 .085 is stronger and lighter than 2x2 .120.

Below is my frame, floor is 5'6" wide and 10 long. tongue is 2x3 120, everything else is 2x3 085, not including the angle around the edge. It weights less than 300 lbs not including axle, and could easily carry 3k lbs.

edit its sized with 31 10.5 r15 tires to be 78 wide so it does not need extra lighting.

what is the purpose of the stubs in from the rear bumper?

 

[high-and-dry]

what is the purpose of the stubs in from the rear bumper?

Well they where for the stabilizers, until I put them on and found out the did nothing when coming in from the side at 90 degrees to the frame. So they got changed to 45 degrees, and I did not worry about cutting them off.