"Double down or fold" - Part 2 ...

[Hillbilly Heaven]

Yeah to swap from a 4L60 to a 4L80 transmission involves swapping two wires on the transmission and reflashing the ecu so it knows it is controlling a 4L80.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Yes, the 4L80 (3/4 ton transmission) swap is "technically" possible and has been done. From what I've read on the 2wd trucks it's a fairly simple procedure but the 4wd makes it much more complicated because the 4L80 is physically longer than the 4L60 which means the transfer case has to be moved, driveshafts shortened/lengthened, etc.

I think when you consider the complications it's often more cost effective to either (a) swap in the entire drivetrain from a 3/4 ton (6.0 V8, 4L80 and transfer case) or (b) even better, sell the 1500 and get a 2500.

I'm not a fabricator or a mechanic and I don't like the idea of making major component swaps, especially on a vehicle that has to be reliable. It's just my opinion but I think when you start swapping engines, transmissions, or other major components that were originally made for different vehicles, you end up with a frankenstein machine that is neither fish nor fowl, and a potential repair nightmare. I'd rather stay as close to factory as I can get just for reliability and simplicity of maintenance or repairs.

 

[DaveInDenver]

The risk to modifying your truck is being able to repair it in the field and if it's not something you're going to do yourself or is a common swap then retaining the factory configuration makes sense I guess. But what else have you changed from the factory? Your truck is already not like it was on the showroom floor.

So I don't think it has to be any less reliable, I mean your truck headaches are with a completely stock drivetrain. Any decent wrench isn't going to be bothered repairing a 4L80, may just have to refer to two different manuals is all. I mean small block V8 conversions happen all the time into Toyotas and have for decades and the world keeps spinning when one breaks down.

Anyway, if the modification is done to beef it up then why would you assume it's going to break? If it's not preventing the damage then there is no reason to modify it and go back to the original configuration.

 

[rajacat]

Get a Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost with the heavy duty payload package. This should handle your trailer with ease. The twin turbos handle high altitude very well and the 3.5 is a torque monster with 470 lb/ft and 375 hp. The torque is available at a relatively low RPM and is steady through a long range there less downshifting and whining out at high RPM.

 

[Martinjmpr]

When they rebuild a trans they put in new steels & clutches, rubbers & seals, inspect the hard parts & test solenoids, maybe put in a reman torque convertor.
Hard parts (planetary gears) & pumps get changed if needed. When it leaves the shop they are gambling it will last out the warranty.

OK, this explains a lot. I guess had I known I would have specified a much beefier rebuild back in 2016. Ah, well, chalk it up to "lessons learned" and hopefully some other folks out there can learn from my experience.

180k isn't a lot on that truck. If a transmission is your only failure point, I don't see it being a huge issue. I don't think your first rebuild was quality which is why it failed, and it sucks you had to pay $3500 for a new trans the second time bc of a bad situation. I'm on almost 150k on my original trans, and when the time comes its getting a beefy rebuild.. HD everything. If I was towing regularly I'd be in a modern heavy 1/2 ton with a 6, 8, or 10 speed with big gears or an older 3/4 ton. Is your trailer 3500lbs dry? Remember your payload as well, which I'm sure you're getting close to loaded up camping. That isn't a lot for a 1/2 ton per say, but its a lot for a 4L60, especially with a highway gear (not sure what your truck has).

BUT If you don't plan on slowing down your camping, you should get a bigger truck. My $.02. Leaves you open to upgrade the camper in the future too. And with that short of a commute I don't think a daily is necessary, but thats just me. I commute 50 miles a day in my 1500 @ 16 mpg. Buying a cheap commuter would take 2-3 years to break even and I like driving my truck. I'd find yourself a crewcab GMT900 Silverado with the 6.0 and 6 speed auto. Thats a bulletproof combo available way under your budget and the six speed is a little easier on fuel that the old four speed.

That makes a lot of sense. One thing I'm trying to avoid is the "buy a new(er) truck every 3 years" habit that I seem to have had over the past decade or so. I don't mind paying more for something that is going to last me at least 10 years, and that leads me more towards a newer truck vs. an older one with higher miles. Just by way of reference, my Suburban had 136,000 miles on it when I bought it in December of 2015.

Seems to me this is the conundrum because what you're asking of a 1/2 ton is too much. This time it could have been a bad rebuild but either way you're at the margin of what the truck can do.

Just my $0.02, you need a truck that can do what you ask of it and if that means you daily drive a 3/4 then that's the price you pay.

I'd like to think you're wrong but I'm starting to come to the same conclusion. And if I get a new(er) vehicle, whatever I get, I only want to get ONCE.

However, if you can swing it financially having a cheap daily driver would be nice not only to save gas and parking headache. When you beat up your truck like we do it's somewhat inevitable you'll break or at least require following the severe duty maintenance, requiring more down time between trips. So having a way to get around when the truck is down probably should be factored into budgeting.

Not to mention driving your truck on short trips and in traffic isn't doing it any favors either.

Eh, I did the "daily driver" thing for almost 7 years (January of 2011 to December of 2017.) First DD was a Mazda Protege sedan that I ended up putting a replacement engine into. Second was a bone-stock Mazda B2300 (AKA Ford Ranger) that was dead nuts reliable and the third was a bit of an indulgence, a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder (R50) with a 5 speed. Fun to drive but at 17 mpg it wasn't enough of an improvement over the Suburban's 12 mpg to make it worthwhile.

Really, as much as I wanted to be one of those guys with multiple cars, I crunched the numbers honestly and it didn't make any kind of financial sense for me to keep an extra vehicle.

I tend to agree with XJLI above that with a 60 mile/week commute, the "break even" on a DD commuter car is likely to take too long to justify it. What's worse, when I started having a separate DD in 2011 we had a small house with a big driveway and garage, but since 2017 we have a much bigger house with a much SMALLER driveway and garage so parking at home is a concern.

All in all, I don't think a separate DD car is the right answer for me. I have two motorcycles, if I really wanted to save fuel on commuting I'd ride one of them to work on nice days and get 50 mpg. The only "cost" there is the time it takes for me to put all my gear on.

 

[Todd780]

My 2 cents, a newer half ton truck with a factory tow package (factory coolers etc) should pull that trailer fine. I tow a flagstaff micro lite 23 lb and the half ton seems fine with it. (Haven't towed it into the mountains yet thought) I am not familiar with your terrain so that could be the difference.

 

[D45]

Yes, the F150 with Max Tow can pull over 12,000 and payload can be over 2500

However, I am NOT impressed with the motor and think the 3.5 is junk, along with the quality of the truck

 

[Ghetto Fab.]

I'm just amazed the factory 10bolt rearend in your burban hasn't blown up yet. I would definately skip modifying the 1500 burban and go find a 2500 burban instead. 6.0-4l80-semifloat 14bolt is a good combo.

I will say that any of the newer 1/2ton pickups should be fine since they have made some decent strides in the past few years with their capabilities. I'm more partial though to 3/4 tons, specifically the rams and superdutys for their solid front axles. Less stuff to go wrong on those front suspensions when out in the middle of nowhere. My current ram 2500 ctd barely moves the temp gauge when pulling grades with 7klbs behind it.

I don't feel like the 3/4tons are that much more innefficient than the 1/2tons. Neither ones a prius. If if buys you more peace of mind then its worth it.

Kevin

 

[6gun]

As far as "swapping causes maintenance/repair nightmares". It is all in design. My '99 Ranger is on 2006 F250 axles and the swap is very well documented. I have a folder that stays with the truck detailing EVERY nut, bolt, wire, etc that has been changed. 99% are factory standard parts that can be bought anywhere. The rest were necessary customs and if it is a breakable/wear item I had 2 made and carry a spare(front driveshaft, PS hose, etc). Mileage may vary with mechanical competence/desire but My .02 is don't be afraid of modifying to fit your needs. A well built 4L80E would be money well spent IMHO.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Really, as much as I wanted to be one of those guys with multiple cars, I crunched the numbers honestly and it didn't make any kind of financial sense for me to keep an extra vehicle.

The only thing I might point out (since I also do not have a daily driver) is the financials do need to account for your sanity and time. It's ultimately a hobby where you justify more luxury than you need in the first place. You could use a tent, a 2WD pickup and hiking boots to get to the same places. So if having a back up inexpensive run around car saves you from missing a Monday meeting then it's earned it keep in a way even if the bottom line on a spreadsheet doesn't say so.

 

[rajacat]

@ D45. The new generation 3.5 is not junk. Its the best selling truck for a reason. You're stating an opinion not fact.

 

[Todd780]

I don't feel like the 3/4tons are that much more innefficient than the 1/2tons. Neither ones a prius. If if buys you more peace of mind then its worth it.

Kevin

Not that much more inefficient, but in my area the difference between purchase prices on similarly equipped 1/2 tons and a 3/4 tons seems to be about 10 grand.

 

[hour]

@ D45. The new generation 3.5 is not junk. Its the best selling truck for a reason. You're stating an opinion not fact.

Can confirm.

 

[js9234]

Not that much more inefficient, but in my area the difference between purchase prices on similarly equipped 1/2 tons and a 3/4 tons seems to be about 10 grand.

Don't know where your're you're from but I've never seen such a large difference. You can buy a 2018 CC 2500 4x4 for around 31-34 in most places

 

[Todd780]

Don't know where your're you're from but I've never seen such a large difference. You can buy a 2018 CC 2500 4x4 for around 31-34 in most places

Up north.





Tried to keep options similar Both V8 gassers, cloth interior, 4X4 FX4 pkgs etc.... I did the same thing with Ram 1500 and 2500's and the difference was similar.