EarthRoamer XV-JP "Northwest Edition"

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
For the expense involved, would it be feasible to fabricate a coolant heated unit?
Yep . . . if I had it to do over. :sombrero:

There's no reasonable place underneath the truck, but the very slickest setup would have been to custom-make a low-slung squarish unit that didn't go so far up behind the passenger's seat (to get back that seat recline) and then made up the difference by filling in the area beneath the passenger's seat, which is largely empty. That would have been out of the way, close to the connections, and probably good for three gallons easy.

I'll ponder that, especially if the electric unit won't work. And I've also thought about the practicality of using the innards of a propane-fired portable unit, since there's propane available about six inches away. Maybe reconfigure the unit (since I wouldn't need any pump) into a nice thin metal box for behind the seat.

But I'm thinking more than I was that this electric unit could do the trick and offer some advantages. And I'd forgotten that I can get a little makeup power--not much, heading toward winter in Oregon, but some--from the 80 watts of solar panels on the roof.

BTW, if anyone has a similar unit, can you give me an estimate of how long the water will stay above shower temperature with no power? That'd help make up my mind.
 

Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
Considering that it was their catalog that was a failed effort, one would think they could at least cover the costs of the shipping for you. It is not like you messed up, you just went with what you had.

I guess the big thing might be how much do you intend to want hot water in the truck over the next three months? IE if you plan to use it a lot that may change how much you are going to want to try that one you have, but if you are not planning to be out camping in the snow and ice etc then perhaps you can hold off until they get you the correct one.

Well good luck to you Mike!
 

r3run33

Adventurer
Hello been away from this tread for a little bit; thought the jeep was finished Lol Not to offend but why did you go with this unit or model? and not use the engine for heating the water?? have you had experience with these types or is this something new??
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
Hello been away from this tread for a little bit; thought the jeep was finished Lol Not to offend but why did you go with this unit or model? and not use the engine for heating the water?? have you had experience with these types or is this something new??
As explained a few posts up, I had intended to install a heat exchanger model, but was sent a different part. I've been tied up with some family medical issues and haven't yet gotten the seat out to check the chances of making use of the large all-electric unit I was sent. I can find advantages to either the heat exchanger or the electric unit, and it may come down whether the ten-liter electric unit I have in my hands will fit or whether I need to spend more time and money to source the six-liter heat exchange unit.
 

Seeker

Adventurer
Found this thread yesterday - two days of savagely destroyed productivity. All I can say is... Well done. Well done. The work done is a thing of beauty.
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
Found this thread yesterday - two days of savagely destroyed productivity. All I can say is... Well done. Well done. The work done is a thing of beauty.
Thanks for the compliment, Allen. You came by at a good time. Along about this point:

ER Upscale 02.jpg

things weren't quite so happy. All's well that ends well, though. ;)
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
Roof Rack Completion

Over the Jeep's "development period," the contents of the roof rack has been sparse and varied. I just got it into final form, though, and am very pleased with the results.

One thing that had to happen first was to stop moving the spare tire back and forth. It started life held to the roof rack with the plenty-strong and kind-of-nifty Poison Spyder 3-way tire strap that's usually used to hold the spare on a rear stinger tire carrier.

P1010227.jpg


Then Paul Jensen made a custom mount for the tire to place it forward of the roof rack

P1120166.JPG

which had many merits, not the least of which was helping to hold up his surfboard.

4 -  (23).JPG

But after a few camping trips it became clear to me that having the tire that far forward sometimes was making the struts struggle to lift the roof, so I moved the tire back onto the rack.

That didn't seem the perfect solution, though, as it struck me that the dedicated tire mount Paul made was too trick not to use.

Therefore, I risked diving into the "systems" compartment:

ER Upscale 05.jpg

to visit the air system pressure regulator, and was delighted to find there was still more pressure to be had. Adding another ten pounds to the pressure in the struts made them work smoothly and reliably with the spare at the forward edge of the roof. So now I had the whole roof rack available.

The rack itself is a JASO unit from Australia I'd purchased for another truck from a fellow Portaler prior to owning the Jeep. It's a very nice unit, and particularly appreciated for its light weight and corrosion resistance. The truck's Bully shovel (passenger's side) and Fiskers ax (driver's side) are attached with Quick Fists. The poles for the Foxwing and Foxwing awning extension are Velcro cinch strapped to the rear edge,

P1010536.jpg

and L-track pieces

P1010541.jpg

have been attached to all four sides (which was a really good idea). As the picture shows, the rack is attached through the thick fiberglass cabin roof with twelve threaded isolation bushings; it's on there very securely.

I then attached two Rotopax universal mounting plates to the rails:

P1010549.jpg

I already owned the Rotopax mounts and backing plates needed to mount them directly to the rack rails, but I figured with my luck that I'd have a void right where I needed to put a bolt, so I used the plates for an easier install. As each rack can hold two mounts, and each mount can hold hold two cans, I could theoretically carry eight two-gallon Rotopaxs. But for reasons soon to be revealed, I needed to mount the plates where the rightmost can on the front mount would foul the frontmost can on the passenger-side mount, so six is the actual maximum.

In practice, two is the most common load:

P1010554.jpg

with the area across the front of the rack used to carry the MaxTraxs.

The routine setup is two gallons of gasoline for the generator and two gallons of water for emergency use. The water is a belt-and-suspenders thing as there's up to 27 gallons of fresh water in the cabin's tank. It would take a combination of pretty unforeseeable circumstances to make that water strictly necessary, but having a couple gallons in a can would save hassles were there a pump failure or catastrophic leak.

If I needed lots of gas, it's easy to screw on more mounts and put the Rotopaxs under the MaxTraxs. Most times, though, it'll be easier to use a Super Siphon to get petrol from the vehicle tank.

The sophistication of the whole enterprise was given a boost when Equipt was able to restock the big, low Alu-Box ABS74 I really wanted. This low-slung case's form factor (about 31 x 21 x 8) is not available in any of the other usual suspects (Pelican, Hardigg, Zarges, etc.) and having it available made all the difference to my plan.

I was able to install it semi-elegantly by epoxying isolation pads that matched the case's rounded corners in just the right spots on the rack:

P1010560.jpg

These are enough to locate the case and limit x-y movement, and lets me get away with no more tying down than cinching down the two handles to prevent up-and-down movement.

All of this manipulation resulted in this

P1010555.jpg

All in all, I'm very pleased with how it turned out.

It's worth noting that I've been at this long enough to know the woes that can befall someone putting too much weight on a vehicle's roof and I'm staying alert for problems. All told, though, we haven't yet broken a hundred pounds yet (let's hear it for aluminum) and the stuff that'll go in the box won't be that heavy. Additionally, though, we are helped by the heavy-duty suspension which is already dealing with keeping 7000 pounds of truck stable, and thus doesn't seem to be noticing another 100 pounds, even when carried up high. Anyway, this isn't one of these eight-Jerry-can loads people write about, and I've not noticed any issues to date.
 
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mhiscox

Expedition Leader
I love the refinement...Never stay satisfied...
Jensen, you cane toad. I was worried you'd been eaten by something. Listen, mate . . . Do not come home. The rain is awful. Send QANTAS to fetch us all. :sombrero:

Seriously, thanks for the compliment, and for the tire mount that made it all work out.

Stay safe and don't work too hard,

Mike
 

PaulJensen

Custom Builder
Jensen, you cane toad. I was worried you'd been eaten by something. Listen, mate . . . Do not come home. The rain is awful. Send QANTAS to fetch us all. :sombrero:

Seriously, thanks for the compliment, and for the tire mount that made it all work out.

Stay safe and don't work too hard,

Mike

The house I was staying in lost the hydro-electric system in total...After a week of adapting to the style of living done three hundred years ago, I felt the call to be home with loved ones for Thanksgiving, so at the end of three days of trains, planes and automobiles, I'm home...

Yeah, you might say the climate changes are noticeable...
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
One of the interesting issues most all of us face is how much stuff to carry when. Bicyclists have it the worst and think life is plush for motorcyclists, on up to people with Class A motorhomes who envy the space in those huge underbelly bays of the bus conversions. The XV-JP is a pretty small truck, but I'm gratefully able to carry a considerable amount of "stuff." But the space isn't unlimited, and even if it were, there's no sense in buying the fuel to haul around a lot of dead weight.

Which raises the question about how to carry and store the recovery gear you'd want with you if you were doing some hard core trail. The Jeep already has a winch, D-ring shackles front and rear, a Hi-Lift with off-road base, a scissors-jack with an ARB base for it, along with a good tow strap and a wheel chock. Certainly enough to handle most anything you could run into by accident. But there's additional stuff you'd want to have if you went out expecting to find some gnarly trail to travel.

My plan, which looks like it's going to work, was to put the hard-core stuff in a case that can stay home when not needed, but be added quickly when there might be a use for it. Turns out that using a padded ballistic nylon rifle case similar to the one I got from LA Police Gear is a good alternative.

P1010575.jpg

It zips up securely, seems more than rugged enough and (especially once I hit it with some spray waterproofer) pretty weather-resistant.

Inside, there was plenty of space for the tire puncture kit, the tree protector, the snatch strap, a second tow strap, a shackle, the big snatch block, the Hi-Lift wheel lift adapter and the collapsible bow saw. And the large pocket on the outside is plenty big for two folding chocks, the Hi-Lift repair kit, a backup winch controller, and other odds and ends.

P1010576.jpg

Once full, the case probably has thirty pounds of stuff in it.

The good news is that it's easy to put the case horizontally on to the front section of the roof rack and strap it down on top of the MaxTraxs:

P1010554.jpg

where it can either replace or go underneath the Sea-to-Summit dry bag that sometimes goes there.

P1010556.jpg

And if/when the going gets tough enough that the equipment will be needed on short notice, I can just pull the case off the roof when I stop to air down and it'll ride flat on the floor inside the cabin without being tied down, there being enough padding on the case that it won't mess anything up.

I tried a lot of different bags, including the dedicated ARB recovery bag, but all of them took up space that wasn't readily available. By putting everything into the low-profile rifle case, I'm able to use an area of the truck that is reasonably easy to access, but isn't in the way of anything else. All in all, I think it'll work well given my on-and-on need for the more serious recovery equipment.
 

Every Miles A Memory

Expedition Leader
Good idea Mike. Another option that would literally be bulletproof would be one of the Pelican Rifle Cases which would keep everything secure and you'd never have to worry about waterproofness - Wal-Mart has the best prices on them on the internet amazingly enough - Wal-Mart Link

That's a great idea for those times you're just going to be doing a day trip or a short overnight when you know you wont need all the recovery gear if off-road isnt an option
 

mhiscox

Expedition Leader
Another option that would literally be bulletproof would be one of the Pelican Rifle Cases which would keep everything secure and you'd never have to worry about waterproofness.
Hiya, Pat. Hope all is well.

Thanks for the link. I wanted to make that Pelican case work, but it was just a little too big. Pelican gives the outside dimensions of the 1700 as 38.12"L x 17.81"W x 6.12"H, which is a little long, but more importantly, considerably wider than the one I found, at 36" x 12". So if I'd gone with the Pelican case, it wouldn't have left enough fore-to-aft room for the Alu-Box.

And a side benefit I recognized post hoc is that the padded cloth case is happier riding on the spikes of the MaxTraxs than a hard-sided case would be.

Best, Mike
 

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