We leave on Sunday for the Smoky mountains (I hope the National park is all cleaned up by then). We will also so some stuff up in Ky, like Mammoth cave and stuff. I will post pics up in here, it isin't a real "expedition" just a vacation so I don't think it needs another thread.
EricM's 2001 XJ Camping - Geocaching - Family Daily Driver
- Thread starter EricM
- Start date
Oh, there are three things that need addressed.
1. I need better headlights. Not additional lights, just better
2. I need to clear the check engine light for gas tank charcole filter.
3. Find and fix the annoying oil drip. Just the slightest drips, but still I want to clean that up.
1. I need better headlights. Not additional lights, just better
2. I need to clear the check engine light for gas tank charcole filter.
3. Find and fix the annoying oil drip. Just the slightest drips, but still I want to clean that up.
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
I am very happy with the performance of the Hella E Code H4 headlamps I am running now. I opted for the upgraded Eautoworks wiring harness with 2 relays and the Hella housings/bulbs. In the US, you will likely require the DOT lamps if you get inspected, but MAN the ECE (e code or european code) housings sure have a nicer cutoff. Quality of the Hella housings and bulbs is great. Ciebe makes better housings but they are $$.
DONT pop in H4's without relays... can burn out your switch due to amperage draw being too high. A decent upgrade is to simply pop in a set of the Silverstar Sealed Beams...much better than simply stock. I did a whack of research on this, PM me if you want any details, happy to share.
Greg
mudbutt
Explorer
It's pretty common for the oil filter adapter o-rings to get hard and leak. If the oil is coating the starter motor then that's probably your leak.
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
There are about three or four common oil leak issue areas actually... but what Mudbutt said is just as likely as any of them. Rear main seal likes to go out between 80-150k. The valve cover is a usual suspect as well. And like mine, you'll want to order the far better Fel Pro gasket kit for that which comes with the special fastener seals. Its not so much the covers gasket that likes to leak as the bolts that hold it to the head. Most of the cheap kits don't include the bolt seals and you WILL need to replace them at the same time. Also, there is a seal in the timing cover which the harmonic balancer goes... they can leak also.
A bit of food for thought, if its the oil filter adapter that is leaking you'll need to go to the (ugh!) stealership to get the O ring kit to fix it. Its less than 10 bucks so not to bad by dealer standards but the O rings are kinda peculiar sized. The other thing of note is how the adapter is attached to the block. If its held on with what looks like a huge bolt (like 1 1/16-1 1/8?) then it won't be so bad. If it has what appears to be a huge torx bit... curse your life! haha! Both of these types can be a giant bear to remove as time, and heat and gunk can kinda bake the bolt in place. With the hex bolt its just a matter of proper leverage to get it to break loose... With the torx... not so much. It takes a T60 bit to fit in properly and its near impossible to get to with anything more than a box end wrench! I actually made a tool just for this and it was still a tough fight. Its like Godzilla on steroids used God's impact gun to install the thing! And you really, REALLY don't want to strip out that torx bit! Find out where the leak starts and go from there.
A bit of food for thought, if its the oil filter adapter that is leaking you'll need to go to the (ugh!) stealership to get the O ring kit to fix it. Its less than 10 bucks so not to bad by dealer standards but the O rings are kinda peculiar sized. The other thing of note is how the adapter is attached to the block. If its held on with what looks like a huge bolt (like 1 1/16-1 1/8?) then it won't be so bad. If it has what appears to be a huge torx bit... curse your life! haha! Both of these types can be a giant bear to remove as time, and heat and gunk can kinda bake the bolt in place. With the hex bolt its just a matter of proper leverage to get it to break loose... With the torx... not so much. It takes a T60 bit to fit in properly and its near impossible to get to with anything more than a box end wrench! I actually made a tool just for this and it was still a tough fight. Its like Godzilla on steroids used God's impact gun to install the thing! And you really, REALLY don't want to strip out that torx bit! Find out where the leak starts and go from there.
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
My Jeep had a small weep at the RMS, had that replaced as my front seal on the pan gasket had a small weep as well. My O ring at the oil filter went too, small weep again, so I had that done too... no more drips at all!
well...except the one from my worn steering box that is. lol
well...except the one from my worn steering box that is. lol
Project Check engine light.
So, I have been driving it around with the check engine light on I decided to take care of that today.
Check engine light, multiple codes. Mostly miss fire detected. Vacuum leak detected. Hopefully it is just the Vacuum leak detection pump like the cryptic code is referencing. That or the Evap Solenoid there is a TSB about it sticking open, I will start there.
OK so, it was the Evap Solenoid, that's nice it was only $40. Also it was right on the firewall passenger side on TOP! the easiest part replacement I have ever done. One electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.
While I was in there I took care of the Miss fire codes as well. It was on 1 and 2, and also on 3, but not 4, 5 nor 6.
So, I figure the 12 year old coils are failing, also I replaced the spark plugs. I gapped the new plugs to .035 and just for giggles I checked the old plugs, LIKE. OH MY GOD! 4 of them the gap was too big to mesure with my gage! the other two were well above .080. I am surprised it ran at all. I guess I could of gotten away with just replacing the plugs and not the coil bar, but it does have 180K miles and I use it to tow my trailer all over the USofA with my family so I feel better with a new coil rail in there.
Anyway, the check engine light is out and it idles so much smoother, and the throttle response is so much better as well.
The Magic (old) parts ( replaced the air filter because I had one in the garage )
So, I have been driving it around with the check engine light on I decided to take care of that today.
Check engine light, multiple codes. Mostly miss fire detected. Vacuum leak detected. Hopefully it is just the Vacuum leak detection pump like the cryptic code is referencing. That or the Evap Solenoid there is a TSB about it sticking open, I will start there.
OK so, it was the Evap Solenoid, that's nice it was only $40. Also it was right on the firewall passenger side on TOP! the easiest part replacement I have ever done. One electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.
While I was in there I took care of the Miss fire codes as well. It was on 1 and 2, and also on 3, but not 4, 5 nor 6.
So, I figure the 12 year old coils are failing, also I replaced the spark plugs. I gapped the new plugs to .035 and just for giggles I checked the old plugs, LIKE. OH MY GOD! 4 of them the gap was too big to mesure with my gage! the other two were well above .080. I am surprised it ran at all. I guess I could of gotten away with just replacing the plugs and not the coil bar, but it does have 180K miles and I use it to tow my trailer all over the USofA with my family so I feel better with a new coil rail in there.
Anyway, the check engine light is out and it idles so much smoother, and the throttle response is so much better as well.
The Magic (old) parts ( replaced the air filter because I had one in the garage )
MtnClimber
Ready To Explore!
When I replaced the plugs on my 00 XJ, they too were all gapped right around .085". Amazing that it ran at all... Quicker start-ups and idling when they're all gapped at .035".
If you haven't done so, make sure you use ample amount of neverseize on the 4 bolts that hold the rail in, for future ease of removal.
I replaced my air filter w/a K&N drop in. For my area and type of driving/camping/overlanding (Maine and points North) it's nice knowing that I can simply clean it. However, most air filters ar only $10/ea so it all depends on your driving environment.
Oh ya, nice Jeep! :wavey:
If you haven't done so, make sure you use ample amount of neverseize on the 4 bolts that hold the rail in, for future ease of removal.
I replaced my air filter w/a K&N drop in. For my area and type of driving/camping/overlanding (Maine and points North) it's nice knowing that I can simply clean it. However, most air filters ar only $10/ea so it all depends on your driving environment.
Oh ya, nice Jeep! :wavey:
jjdieselman
New member
ah rear main seal is a roll in one. gotta say they are easy to do when the tranny is out, that when i did mine. my front seal started to finally weap after 5000+ miles of wheelen since my jeep gets trailered to the wheelen or weekend trip.
jjdieselman
New member
i had also installed a remote oil filter on my 4.0 cause i got more idle hours then miles on the motor. also keep the tranny cool cause they run around the 220 degree mark. i installed a B&M techni cooler on my jeep to cool that slush box down. mine now runs on the trail down around 180 on a hot day.
jjdieselman
New member
not trying to high jack the thread cause im new but i own 2 cherokees and i got alot of time in both and my buddys rigs. lets just say i know them in and out.
VanIsle_Greg
I think I need a bigger truck!
The coils in an XJ are not likely to fail. I have spoken to a number of people including my mechanic who have yet to see a coil rail fail on a Cherokee or any other DIS Jeep. The plugs however take a beating. The DIS system on the Jeep is a 2 plug per coil setup, and apparently there are some known issues with that configuration and plug gaps. I think this is one of the reasons that Chrysler went from Champion Double Copper plugs on these to NGK Platinum? Anyhow, when the one of the 2 plugs per coil fires a charge, the other plug on that coil gets hit with a negative draw on it. Apparently this is really hard on the plugs.
I read a really great article on this with a lot of technical data on a spark plug site. Keep on top of the gaps and you will be GTG. I pulled a set of new Champion Double Coppers I put in after 6 months and the gap was at about .41 thou already. Plugs looked near new still, so I re-gapped and reinstalled. They are about due again now. If I find that plug link I will share it here.
I read a really great article on this with a lot of technical data on a spark plug site. Keep on top of the gaps and you will be GTG. I pulled a set of new Champion Double Coppers I put in after 6 months and the gap was at about .41 thou already. Plugs looked near new still, so I re-gapped and reinstalled. They are about due again now. If I find that plug link I will share it here.