Eurosonic's Montero 2.5Gen Build Thread
- Thread starter eurosonic
- Start date
Granted the bumper was for an XJ and was used on a rock crawler.... has some decent trail rash... and I'll have to make my own frame mounts. But thats OK.
nwoods
Expedition Leader
Really enjoying this build thread, and the associated links and commentary. I have a few naive questions, hope you don't mind:
1. Did you ever disconnect the sway bars? If so, was there a notable increase in articulation?
2. Besides the BL, did you do anything to the suspension to lift it or increase articulation yet? If not, Do you have anything planned?
3. Why did you install the locking hubs? Does that engage the axle to the front diff? Isn't the front diff open anyway? I don't understand what locking hubs do.
4. What are you doing for a rear bumper? Last photos I saw it was off and not yet replaced/modified.
5. What mpg are you getting on the 33's?
6. When you search online (Craigslist), are you searching using any kind of meta search tool? Or are all these amazing finds of yours local?
Thanks for your responses and great work in this thread!
1. Did you ever disconnect the sway bars? If so, was there a notable increase in articulation?
2. Besides the BL, did you do anything to the suspension to lift it or increase articulation yet? If not, Do you have anything planned?
3. Why did you install the locking hubs? Does that engage the axle to the front diff? Isn't the front diff open anyway? I don't understand what locking hubs do.
4. What are you doing for a rear bumper? Last photos I saw it was off and not yet replaced/modified.
5. What mpg are you getting on the 33's?
6. When you search online (Craigslist), are you searching using any kind of meta search tool? Or are all these amazing finds of yours local?
Thanks for your responses and great work in this thread!
vgreen
Putting the G in RGB
I'll go ahead and answer the question about locking hubs.
The Montero have solid front hubs (can't remember the term for these), basically a flange bolted to the hub with a splined hole in the center that the front axle goes through. The front axles splines engage the flange, powering the front wheels. The problem is that you can't disconnect it. That means the entire front drive assembly is ALWAYS turning, even in 2wd. The CVs, the diff, everything. That causes a lot of extra drag on the vehicle. The upside is your never have to get out of your vehicle to engage 4wd, and they are reliable. It is literally just a solid piece of steel, bolted to the hub.
A manual locking hub is useful because you can UNLOCK it. When locked, it acts just like the factory drive flange, but when unlocked, it allows the front wheels to freewheel, and the axles, cv's, diff, etc, to remain still.
If the truck doesn't have to move all the extra parts, it should get better gas mileage. I've heard somewhere between 1-3mpg difference. It also means less wear on the cv's and diff, especially helpful on a lifted truck, since that cause more stress on the cv's. The downside of the locking hubs is that you have to get out and lock them before you can use 4wd. Also, they occasionally fail. My friend had a superwinch hub explode on his trooper, but he was being stupid, trying 4 rated trail in a nearly stock trooper. 33" front tire spinning in the air llike crazy and suddenly getting traction is tough on things. He broke more than just the hub.
Im not sure if that was helpful or not. Hopefully it wasn't too confusing. If it wasn't 3am, I'd go take photos of my hubs to show the difference.
The Montero have solid front hubs (can't remember the term for these), basically a flange bolted to the hub with a splined hole in the center that the front axle goes through. The front axles splines engage the flange, powering the front wheels. The problem is that you can't disconnect it. That means the entire front drive assembly is ALWAYS turning, even in 2wd. The CVs, the diff, everything. That causes a lot of extra drag on the vehicle. The upside is your never have to get out of your vehicle to engage 4wd, and they are reliable. It is literally just a solid piece of steel, bolted to the hub.
A manual locking hub is useful because you can UNLOCK it. When locked, it acts just like the factory drive flange, but when unlocked, it allows the front wheels to freewheel, and the axles, cv's, diff, etc, to remain still.
If the truck doesn't have to move all the extra parts, it should get better gas mileage. I've heard somewhere between 1-3mpg difference. It also means less wear on the cv's and diff, especially helpful on a lifted truck, since that cause more stress on the cv's. The downside of the locking hubs is that you have to get out and lock them before you can use 4wd. Also, they occasionally fail. My friend had a superwinch hub explode on his trooper, but he was being stupid, trying 4 rated trail in a nearly stock trooper. 33" front tire spinning in the air llike crazy and suddenly getting traction is tough on things. He broke more than just the hub.
Im not sure if that was helpful or not. Hopefully it wasn't too confusing. If it wasn't 3am, I'd go take photos of my hubs to show the difference.
Last edited:
nwoods
Expedition Leader
Very helpful! I thought that was the explanation, but wasn't sure. Nice description. Thanks!
eurosonic
Expedition Leader
Yeah, vgreen said it well. Locking and unlocking the hubs is really no big deal. When i get to the trail I turn them on, and when leaving I turn them off. I did notice a slight increase in MPG since putting them on.
And nwoods to answer your qs,
As far as suspension, my plans are to crank the torsion bars to raise the front. (cant believe I still haven't done that). In the back will add a Toyota Sequoia spring spacer. Eventually planning to add KYB Monomax shocks. The sway bar is still on, will delete that as well.
The rear bumper I took off bacause the factory one was too bulky and sticking out too much. Right now Im working on designing a rear bumper that will most likely bend around to the lower quarter panels.
Right now with the 33s and newley installed hubs Im getting solid 16 MPG, before was getting no more than 14.5.
As far as craigslist, I use www.searchtempest.com. It covers all of the surroundings Craigslist communities with one search. Most are all local, I do check in with ebay sometimes. Thats where I bought the fog-lights covers for the ARB bumper, paid $30. Those things are about $200 from ARB.
deadbeat son
Explorer
1. This depends on the answer to number 2.
2. This depends on what you hope to achieve from number 1.
3. Again, this depends on the previous questions.
The more you crank your torsion bars, the higher you lift the vehicle and the rougher it will ride.
Monterorider
Adventurer
More you crank less articulation (traction) of whatever little is available you have. Down travel is always more valuable off-road. If you crank it up much don't forget to undo front bushings bolts. Otherwise you put extra stress on them causing premature failure.
