Exploration and Fly Fishing in Eastern Arizona

Scott Brady

Founder
Part One: Holbrook to Springerville
Exploding tires, Big Pig BBQ and Flaming Airplanes

Every good trip should start with a great meal, although a great meal proved difficult to find in Holbrook Arizona. Actually, anything of consequence is difficult to find in Holbrook, the place being a shell of its former motorway glory. The Route 66 signs and concrete teepees fading in the endless sun, the glare only increasing slightly from the legs of passing Minnesotans.

Charlie and I drove up and down Main Street searching for any restaurant that looked acceptable, with even a quick check on Urbanspoon provided some scary reviews of what would await us at the final choice. However, there was one lone beacon of hope - Bubba's Big Pig BBQ. Parked outside was several big Fords, all clearly locals and a stroll through the 1960's era glass door greeted us with the smell of cow. Sliding into the wide, mostly cracking vinyl bench rewarded us with a hello from the waitress and stares from the locals. Of course our attention was well deserved, as Charlie and I broke out maps, laptops, iPhones and Ipads. The only thing that would have made it worse would be ordering a Mocha Latte, extra whip. :coffeedrink:
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Charlie and I sat waiting for Dave and Mike (trailsurfer) to arrive in the EarthRoamer XV-LT and Sportsmobile, and we waited - and waited. I went out to the Jeep to attempt a 2M call and heard chatter on the channel. It was Mike's voice saying "yeah, it is shredded" then "pull a little further out of traffic, but not too close to the edge". Within a minute, I received a call from Dave - one of the rear Continentals had blown, most likely from low pressure/heat (he had over 20,000 miles on the set, including a trip to Panama). A quick call to AAA, and the problem was solved. We all tore into some Brisket and then hit the trail.

One of the goals of this trip was to explore some new territory in my favorite state. Other than Canyon de Chelly, I had not ventured into much of northeastern Arizona. Just south of Holbrook is a serious chunk of nothingness, interrupted only by the Little Colorado River. With our secondary goal being some fly fishing, I thought we had a plan.

Just south of town, 180 heads SE and within a few miles there is a dirt turnoff towards Woodruff Butte. All easy and graded, with wide-open views of the high desert plains. For our first Little Colorado bridge crossing, we encountered a little problem-
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I told Dave to think "lite" thoughts. . . He was regretting the extra serving of BBQ

After the bridge, we turned onto some ranching two-tracks I had checked out on Google earth. We gained elevation and had the pleasure of watching two cow elk sprint ahead of us, hug clumps of sagebrush turned up behind them.
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The trail also increased in difficulty slightly, with several washouts and climbs. It is always impressive to watch the ER on the trail. You would think the vehicle should struggle, but the 41" Continentals and Dave's good driving always keeps the drama low.
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We also encountered a washout, right at a ranchers gate. The trail was already cambered, but the two-foot deep hole and narrow line made it all the more interesting - with the big trucks.
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The Sportsmobile is impressive in 4wd trim.

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When things get a little cambered, Dave just hits the "auto-level" button - seriously.

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Along the Little Colorado, much of the terrain reminded my of the Grand Staircase in Utah. Here a few switchbacks and a loose, rocky climb kept the interest up.
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It is hard to get the sense of scale of things with a 10,000lb. and 16,000lb. vehicle in the image.

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Sure, a little rock crawling in the LT. You can always stop and take a nap in the back, then a hot shower if the going gets too difficult.

Nearing our campsite, we had to cross a dry lake bed. The original road (on the earthen dam) had washed out. This allowed for some pretty dramatic images.
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What a great looking truck

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I love this Jeep - for so many reasons.
 
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Scott Brady

Founder
We made camp overlooking the Little Colorado. The trail had meandered up to the edge of an escarpment and had a perfect little campsite waiting for us. It was about halfway up the edge and completely level. We positioned the LT to both block out the wind, and the sun and started happy hour - we were happy indeed.
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Much of our happiness and amusement came from Dave's goal of replicating a cocktail we had in Copan City, Honduras. We couldn't remember the name of the drink, but Dave did remember the ingredients, so we began testing various levels of cranberry juice, lime and rum. A name for this drink came later. . .

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Camp set-up for the evening. Yep, no tent

Another side goal for the trip was for Charlie and I to spend some time refining our camping kit for the trip to Mongolia. This involved my favorite way of sleeping -out under the stars.
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Charlie, just as the sun comes up.

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Sunrise in the backcountry. One of life's little blessings

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My sleeping accommodations. Sandstone, Nemo sleeping pad, North Face Hostel bag and a Nemo Fillo pillow - perfect.
 

SilverBullet

Explorer
So Scott, how do I get details and plans on one of these trips, this looks like tons of fun to organizae for a group run.
 

westyss

Explorer
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looks like a great rip, but what is the deal with those wheels? Can someone explain why so many bolts? My guess is split rims but there must be a hundred pounds of bolts on each wheel.
 

Scott Brady

Founder
looks like a great rip, but what is the deal with those wheels? Can someone explain why so many bolts? My guess is split rims but there must be a hundred pounds of bolts on each wheel.

They are Hutchinson dual beadlocks, and the rim can be flipped too. Basically there are a set of bolts for the adapter plate, than another set of bolts for the lugs, than another set of bolts for the dual beadlock assembly.
 

Blackeye

Adventurer, Overland Certified OC0008
This is a great group of folks, an impressive fleet and awesome environment. I’m looking forward to the fly fishing part too.
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Part II

Part II:
The Taliban invaded Springerville

With a lazy morning comes many benefits. On this morning, it meant a pre-sunrise exploration of the escarpment, my presence among the Juniper soliciting an occasional bugle from the heard of elk, or the scurry of a cottontail. Unfortunately, I was pissed off - not at anyone other than myself, as I growled at my stupidity for forgetting a tripod, the rising sun requiring much slower shutter speeds than my hands and the camera's IS could deliver. But, being the generally happy dude I am, I improvised, finding rocks and flat surfaces to rest the camera on. This resulted in some interesting (yet sharp) images. I could claim brilliance and call it "from the ants perspective" or something else clever, but none-the-less, it was just making lemonade.
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Exiting the camp included a short, steep descent, again made to appear insignificant by the mass of my companion's vehicles.
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The road conditions continued to improve, then I got lost (momentarily off course), chasing a road that existed 20 years ago on a topo map, but is now barely passable in the Overland JK. The crux was a steep ravine, cut by years of storms. A few quads had passed in recent months, but there was no way we were getting a half-million dollars of iron, leather and stemware through that gully, at least not without a small army. We lost interest and turned around.

This little detour actually saved us some time, and we ended up in Springerville earlier than expected. Dave had the goal of driving the paved 260 road, which is one on the more beautiful drive in Arizona. But, we decided to stop at Safeway and buy more (lots more) cranberry juice - and that is when everything went terribly wrong. . .

Dave and I were in the store parking lot, and he was giving the 1,457th tour of the EarthRoamer that day, and trying to find a place to store all the cranberry juice and limes when he says to me "Scott, did you just see that column of smoke?". At first, the initial plume had dissipated, but was followed by a second, and much larger column of thick, black smoke. We decided to leave and the route took us just past what looked like a school, huge flames and smoke pouring out of the side. Being a fireman many years ago, I was shocked by the density of black smoke, thinking it was possibly the auto shop or similar. It soon left our thoughts and we met up with Mike and SMB south of town and headed off on 260. But things got more weird...

Helicopters were flying overhead and all versions of marked and unmarked cars flew past us in the direction of the fire. Fire vehicles, sherif, DPS and a number of black suburbans. "What the heck is going on?" "why are there so many black suburbans with visor lights in Springerville? "is it a Mormon uprising?"

Well, it tuned out that Springerville was being invaded by the Taliban, or at least that was the story we heard from the proprietor of the Show Low Fly Fishing shop.

Fly Dude: "Where you boys from?"

Me "Well, we just left Springerville, and are going fishing tomorrow"

Fly Dude "Springerville! That place is under attack"

Me " :confused: "

Fly Dude "They are evacuating the town"

Me " :confused: Ok, can we buy some nymphs"

We did end up getting some great local knowledge on the fishing, and just as we were leaving, we got the real scoop on the "attack"

 

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