ExPo Project: 1991 Land Cruiser Prado SX (LJ78)

[Scott Brady]

It is an interesting comparison for us, given that we own or have owned other Toyotas of the same era. I am forming some thoughts on the comparables, but the Prado is a really cool combination of the other trucks.

1977 Toyota FJ40
1984 Toyota PU
1985 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60
1989 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 5-Speed
1997 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 (current project)








Yes, I have hair in this photo

 

[sailor]

My genius JDM toyota expert here in Vancouver (ATEB) has a Prado just like yours plus he has added an HDJ81 front e locker, a PTO winch with air controls, tweaked the motor for power etc. etc.

 

[Scott Brady]

My genius JDM toyota expert here in Vancouver (ATEB) has a Prado just like yours plus he has added an HDJ81 front e locker, a PTO winch with air controls, tweaked the motor for power etc. etc.

Genius JDM expert is good to know. We are planning to install an ARB rear locker activated by a factory switch. We will also install a winch, either mounted between the frame rails and stealth using the stock front bumper or with an ARB bull bar.

 

[Scott Brady]

Lance,

Thanks for all the great links!

 

[1leglance]

No worries Scott...
I am pretty sure I have the EPC disk laying around somewhere...I will look in the morning when I get home from work and if I find it then I will drop it in the mail to you.

Looking forward to seeing some trip reports from this rig.

 

[Scott Brady]

We have started the restoration process on the LJ78, addressing even the smallest missing part, worn item, etc. Fortunately, the truck is very clean and this is pretty easy. We are also working through a detailed inspection.

When I was in Japan this past December, I met Dave from Japan 4x4 and toured his offices and yard. He has access to many obscure Land Cruiser parts and is sending:

1. Factory locker switch and mounting pod
2. New ash tray
3. New shifter boot
4. New 5-speed shifter knob
5. New fender indicators
6. New wiper arms
7. New rear mud flaps
8. Double-din stereo blank
9. New plastic surround for the stereo and vents

I also like to have secure and quick storage for tools and recovery gear, so we installed an ARB drawer, which fit perfect and mounted using the third row hardware locations. I can remove the drawer in a few minutes and reinstall the other seat. The current configuration allows for one third-row passenger, making it a six passenger rig.


The drawer is 20" wide and fits in exactly half of the rear space

I needed to relocate one of the drawer cross bars to allow for a full bolt-in install

I drilled an additional hole in the cross bar and mounted the drawer using the two factory floor holes. I will likely fabricate an additional bracket that mounts to the third row seat mounting holes on the wheel well.

The drawer matches the interior color and works perfect in the space. I am now deciding on which fridge to put in.

 

[goodwoodweirdo]

Interesting project, I was looking at them in the UK before buying the troopy... they are plentiful in RHD / Jap imports and not overly loved in the UK so cheap +/- £3000 ... everyone said the same thing, you’re just waiting for the head to go...

How easy is a head swap ? just bolt on or is machining necessary ? then it begs the question why not a full engine swap and if so which...


Good luck with the project, I look forward to the updates..


cheers
Matt

 

[BigSwede]

Except for the SFA, looks pretty much like a Trooper or Montero.

If the heads are that vulnerable I would consider a new radiator, any radiator that old will have scale deposits in it that will cut down on cooling ability, although it doesn't look like the rig was neglected.

 

[Scott Brady]

The vast majority of head failure accounts I have read on the web are directly related to abuse or neglect. This is not to say the engine is class-leading or anything, just that preventative maintenance, monitoring EGT and coolant temps and driving it as intended allows these trucks to last a long time. It also seems that the automatic trucks are particularly prone to failure, which makes sense due to the increased thermal load of the ATF and the performance-robbing 4-speed. There are many high-mileage LJs with the stock motor and head still purring along.

Overall, I am not concerned about it, and am willing to install the 3L head if it goes. We specifically searched out this truck given the suspension, cargo and passenger capacity and fuel economy. It was reasonably priced given the immaculate condition - we are really enjoying it

 

[Scott Brady]

Except for the SFA, looks pretty much like a Trooper or Montero.

All the same vintage. In fact, the Prado was very much a market response to the success of the Montero.

 

[p1michaud]

Very cool and clean rig. Would not expect anything less for an Expo/Expeditions West/OJ build up vehicle.

1. EGT gauge
2. 2.5" exhaust

On a diesel, these two changes will make a difference in longevity and performance. Might I suggest that you consider a boost gauge as well, this is a very nice unit:

Autron 52 mm Boost and EGT

Worth $450 AUD.

4. Coolant system maintenance

Will this include a new thermostat and water pump?

Cheers,
P

P.S. Let me know if you need any Oz parts, I may be able to assist...

 

[bjowett]

Add a nice intercooler, reduced intake temps = gain reliability and performance. The air to liquid OEM Celica units may work well as they are desiged to mount over the valve cover... or something aftermarket?

 

[Scott Brady]

The air to liquid OEM Celica units may work well as they are desiged to mount over the valve cover

That is an interesting idea.

The intercooler is not high on the priority, but is being considered.

 

[Scott Brady]

Very cool and clean rig. Would not expect anything less for an Expo/Expeditions West/OJ build up vehicle.
On a diesel, these two changes will make a difference in longevity and performance. Might I suggest that you consider a boost gauge as well, this is a very nice unit:
Will this include a new thermostat and water pump?

P.S. Let me know if you need any Oz parts, I may be able to assist...

I am most interested in the EGT and actual water temps. That seems to be the critical solution for preserving these motors. However, I am looking at a few gauges that also include boost

The truck will need a timing belt soon, so we are going to install a new waterpump and thermostat at the same time. I also intend to install a higher pressure coolant cap to raise the boil point.

Thanks for the offer of OZ parts. There is some inconsistency in when the Light 70 stopped being imported to Australia (as the Bundera). Are you seeing some JDM trucks being imported?

Dave from Japan 4x4 was a big help and sourced all of the little bits for a reasonable price.

 

[p1michaud]

I am most interested in the EGT and actual water temps. That seems to be the critical solution for preserving these motors. However, I am looking at a few gauges that also include boost

The truck will need a timing belt soon, so we are going to install a new waterpump and thermostat at the same time. I also intend to install a higher pressure coolant cap to raise the boil point.

Thanks for the offer of OZ parts. There is some inconsistency in when the Light 70 stopped being imported to Australia (as the Bundera). Are you seeing some JDM trucks being imported?

Dave from Japan 4x4 was a big help and sourced all of the little bits for a reasonable price.

In the 4WD market it's mostly Surfs (4Runners) and shorty Nissan Patrols. They do tend to bring in lots of engines and parts from Japan into Oz. I will second bjowett regarding intercoolers. If EGT are one of your major concerns, go with intercooler. I won't even go close to the air to air vs air to water debate here might put your thread off the rails. Make sure your EGT pick up point is before the turbo. Too many variables for inferring actual EGT temps after turbo. The limiting design factor in diesel turbo engines is the actual metal temperatures of the exhaust ports/heads. From what I've read the figures being quoted are 700 to 750 deg C but I'd be getting very nervous at those temps. Stick to 600 deg C or below before turbo and you'll be fine. To get a full picture on engine temps it may be prudent to look at EGT, water and oil temperatures.

Cheers,
P