ExpoScout's 03 Tundra

ExpoScout

Explorer
If you get a set of wheels with 4" backspacing you will not have any issues with the control arms. My set-up up front is with the Bilstiens set at the 2.5" notch and the wheels are 16x8s with the 4"backspace.

Which size tires?

I think this is what I'm gonna do. Wheelers steel wheels with 4" back spacing. Leave stock arms for now, I can always upgrade them later. 5100s and maybe a leaf or something in the rear, diff drop. Should get me where I want to be for now.
 

Stone_Blue

Adventurer
If you're gonna go with the Wheelers wheels, you can get 5100s front and rear, and AAL packs for the rear, diff drop, and any other hardware or small items you may need from them...Basically you can make it a one-stop-shop deal... Should be right around $550-$600, including shipping, without the wheels added into the order. When I was shopping for 5100s & stuff, Wheelers was just about the best price I got on everything, and I had the order in my hands exactly 7 days after ordering (Theyre in OR, I'm all across the country in NY)...
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Good to know. I'll probably hold off for a little while (as long as I can) before doing suspension....I need to get the bed sprayed and some other things first. Still very much in the planning stages.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Got the diehard platinum PM1 today and installed it as the official first mod, apart from some maintenance tasks. Everything went smoothly. I didn't have to modify anything except the hold-down itself and the routing for the positive wiring.

15wgff6.jpg


For the hold down I cut off the angle closest to the hood and moved it/welded it 1/2" towards the firewall, essentially narrowing it for a shallower battery....if that makes sense.

Weathertech floor mats will be on the way soon. Still trying to convince myself to shell out for the wet okole seat covers. Drawing plans now for the center console.

As soon as I sell the camper top it came with I will have the bed sprayed. So that's basically going to take me through the next month or two. In the mean time I'm just going to enjoy driving it.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
This is from a PM I received from ExpoScout and felt it was pertinent to the thread. Remember any information is my opinion formed from my experience. YMMV.

ExpoScout said:
Hey Jim, just wanted to pick your brain for a minute about my tundra situation.

I like what you've done with your truck and would like to do something similar. I think the 255/85s look good and are what I'd eventually like to run but there's a lot of opinions I've been wading through about lifts, tires, etc....and it's all a little fuzzy.
There is a lot of info out there, some of it I agree with, some I'm leary of. I know what has worked for me, and it has worked flawlessly with both 255/85s and 285/75s.

ExpoScout said:
I really don't want to have to do UCAs and other somewhat extensive mods. I need this truck to be capable but as close to stock/reliable as I can get. I have a scout that is going to be my warm weather toy and I'm not afraid to go crazy with it, but the tundra will be my DD....so I'm sure you can understand where I'm coming from.
Unless you go crazy off road, or lift it a lot, you won't have to do the UCA's. As a DD, this can be a very reliable truck with a good amount of offroad capability. My truck has always had to be a DD first and offroad machine second, so everything I've done has to not affect its ultimate reliability or driveability.

ExpoScout said:
What exactly have you done for your lift? I'm thinking of 5100s, AAL in rear...maybe 1.5" lift or so as you stated you have. I was initially thinking of running the largest tire (265) as I could stock and leaving it at that, but I don't think I'll be happy in the end. So a mild bump in height and 255s would be great. I just don't want to have to deal with regearing or anything.
My current lift is:
Front: Donahoe coilovers set at 1.5" lift over stock. You do not have to go the racing coilover route! I did only because I got a smokin' deal. I ran a Daystar 3/4" puck (gives a 1.5" lift) for about 70,000 miles before that. The Bilstein 5100's are an excellent budget choice.
Rear: Deaver 3 leaf AAL with a AirLift Aircell for the bumpstop. The Deavers evened out the lift but they are soft, and I had to crutch the springs with the AirCells to haul camping gear on rough forest roads. If I had to do it over again I would call Deaver and special order a spring pack to suit my needs.

What I recommend to anyone who DD's their Tundra:
Keep the lift low. Everyone wants to go the full 2-1/2" to 3" and It's unnecessary to run a slightly taller tire. It kills CV's, boots and ball joints quicker. Run the least amount of lift to fit the tallest tire you can. With a low lift I ran the original CV's, CV boot's and ball joints for 170,000 miles. I did have to do the boot clamp on the big end of the inner boot, no diff drop necessary.
Wheels with a 4" or less backspace. You can fit a 285 without rubbing the control arm with a 4" BS, 3-3/4" even easier.

A 265/75/16 will fit with no lift. Especially with the 4"BS wheels
A 255/85/16 will fit with a minor (1-1/2") lift. On an 03, you will have to do the pinchweld mod.
A 285/75/16 will fit with a minor (1-1/2") lift. On an 03, you will have to run the 4" BS, do the pinchweld mod, and trim your front flare.
A regear with any of these tires is not needed unless you really, really want it.

The downside to a lower lift height:
A little more work to run bigger tires
No one, I mean, NO ONE notices - until you're parked next to a similar truck. 'Cool Truck" compliments are hard to come by. The 285's look proportional to the lift compared to the 265's and factory ride height.

If you go with the taller lift, you MAY not have to do the pinchweld, and you MIGHT need to consider the diff drop, you WILL PROBABLY have to do the boot clamp mod, you WILL have to keep an eye on your CV's, the CV boots and your balljoints.

Hope this helps you in your decisions, good luck and keep us posted.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
Excellent info Jim, I certainly appreciate it.

Did you find that the 255s or 285s were the better all around tire for the Tundra in your experience?
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
Excellent info Jim, I certainly appreciate it.

Did you find that the 255s or 285s were the better all around tire for the Tundra in your experience?
On road the 285s handle better on dry roads ( try to slalom in a pickup truck), but I don't notice a definitive difference offroad. I really don't believe there is enough width difference to really matter on a fullsize truck.
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
On road the 285s handle better on dry roads ( try to slalom in a pickup truck), but I don't notice a definitive difference offroad. I really don't believe there is enough width difference to really matter on a fullsize truck.

I do like the look of the 255s more for whatever reason. I had some on a rover and they were nice tires. Now I'm wishing I hadn't sold them!
 

Stone_Blue

Adventurer
I like the skinny tire look also, but only when the tires are even or slightly extended past the fenders/flares....I'm running 16x7 Tacoma steelies with 255s, and even with 1 1/8" spacers, the tires are still an inch or more inside the flares....So if a flush look is kind of important to you, if you go with 255s wheel BS and spacers may be required on a 1st Gen Tundie, and you still may come up a little shy...

Kinda hard to see in this shot, as I didnt get the top of the flare...
DSCN0540lg.jpg
 

ExpoScout

Explorer
I like the skinny tire look also, but only when the tires are even or slightly extended past the fenders/flares....I'm running 16x7 Tacoma steelies with 255s, and even with 1 1/8" spacers, the tires are still an inch or more inside the flares....So if a flush look is kind of important to you, if you go with 255s wheel BS and spacers may be required on a 1st Gen Tundie, and you still may come up a little shy...

Kinda hard to see in this shot, as I didnt get the top of the flare...
View attachment 153401

I'm looking at the wheelers 4" BS steel wheels...I think I should be good but I could always go with spacers afterwards if necessary.
 

jim65wagon

Well-known member
Passenger side is a 255 Cooper St, Drivers side is a 265 BFG AT, both are on a 16x8 Wheelers Steelie with 4 inch BS


This is a 285 Cooper ST Maxx, same Wheelers Steelie, same 4 inch BS
 

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