coffeegoat
Adventurer
For the cracked manifolds check out this thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/163573-Cracked-Exhaust-Manifold-Replacement-Gen-3
EyeInTheSky's Gen 3 Budget Build Thread
- Thread starter EyeInTheSky
- Start date
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Thanks for the tip. Good read. Getting mixed info on the manifolds. A lot of people are saying that you have to have a REALLY good welder you trust to bother with it, others are saying never weld it, others are saying screw it, a little JB Weld won't hurt.
I found an OEM supplier where I can get the manifold delivered for $267 and my mechanic is going to charge me 150 in labor. I don't relish the hours I would have to spend removing crap to get to the manifold, so I'll have him do it and save myself the headache. My main concern would be getting an older manifold just as prone to cracking as the original and have to do this all over again.
FYI some of the Aussie aftermarket headers are now over $1000 USD each shipped (to CA). I knew aftermarket support would be limited, but wow! Plus I have to contend with CA smog rules because I'm just that lucky.
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EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Forgot to mention
Yep, manifold is cracked. Slid under it and saw an approx 3in seam perpendicular to the factory seams that has a small light gray/white discoloration right next to it. Lovely.
I've heard this strange sound occasionally, need more info to diagnose. First time was out in the Alabama Hills, and it was a grinding sound timed to wheel spin. It sounded like the front right brake caught a rock or something. I've now heard it 2-3 more times since then, but it always goes away quickly. Accumulated desert dust in my brakes maybe? Always seems to come from the right front wheel.
Below is an idea I got from Geoff/CoffeeGoat's build thread: A Google doc to keep myself organized. I've been using it since day one, but I'm no engineer so don't expect anything as pretty and organized as CoffeeGoat's. One thing I have included is part numbers for everything I've asked the dealer about, as well as aftermarket, making it easy to look up parts.
FYI I use Pep Boys as my benchmark because they are consistently the cheapest local brick and mortar supplier here when they run 20-30% off deals for online ship-to-store orders. Plus I get $25 gift cards for $20 using my credit card reward points. On that note, any of you who frequent Pep Boys, Autozone, (or any specialty store for that matter), do yourselves a favor and go on a site like GiftCardGranny, and buy some gift cards. You get a percentage off the face value and either a physical card or e-code. I've saved a good amount of money that way at places like Petco and Autozone. Current Pep Boys discounts run around 9%, which is not insignificant, especialy if you're looking into any large purchases.
Here is a link to my Google Doc.
Yep, manifold is cracked. Slid under it and saw an approx 3in seam perpendicular to the factory seams that has a small light gray/white discoloration right next to it. Lovely.
I've heard this strange sound occasionally, need more info to diagnose. First time was out in the Alabama Hills, and it was a grinding sound timed to wheel spin. It sounded like the front right brake caught a rock or something. I've now heard it 2-3 more times since then, but it always goes away quickly. Accumulated desert dust in my brakes maybe? Always seems to come from the right front wheel.
Below is an idea I got from Geoff/CoffeeGoat's build thread: A Google doc to keep myself organized. I've been using it since day one, but I'm no engineer so don't expect anything as pretty and organized as CoffeeGoat's. One thing I have included is part numbers for everything I've asked the dealer about, as well as aftermarket, making it easy to look up parts.
FYI I use Pep Boys as my benchmark because they are consistently the cheapest local brick and mortar supplier here when they run 20-30% off deals for online ship-to-store orders. Plus I get $25 gift cards for $20 using my credit card reward points. On that note, any of you who frequent Pep Boys, Autozone, (or any specialty store for that matter), do yourselves a favor and go on a site like GiftCardGranny, and buy some gift cards. You get a percentage off the face value and either a physical card or e-code. I've saved a good amount of money that way at places like Petco and Autozone. Current Pep Boys discounts run around 9%, which is not insignificant, especialy if you're looking into any large purchases.
Here is a link to my Google Doc.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
I ordered the new manifold and gaskets. Once they arrive I'll be taking it to my mechanic. While he's got the intake plenum stripped off, any other cheap/quick/easy jobs to have him do?
He doesn't like my spark plug wires (thin and flimsy), so any suggestions on replacement wires? My dealer wants $142 for OEM....lol no.
Thinking about having him knock out the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals while he's in there. Timing belt was done last year (supposedly), but I think that would add too much to this job since he is just replacing the one manifold.
Also, he quoted me $150 labor on the drivers side exhaust manifold replacement. Good, bad, ugly? It seemed decent given the amount of work it will take to get to the manifold.
So anything beyond valve cover gaskets?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
He doesn't like my spark plug wires (thin and flimsy), so any suggestions on replacement wires? My dealer wants $142 for OEM....lol no.
Thinking about having him knock out the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals while he's in there. Timing belt was done last year (supposedly), but I think that would add too much to this job since he is just replacing the one manifold.
Also, he quoted me $150 labor on the drivers side exhaust manifold replacement. Good, bad, ugly? It seemed decent given the amount of work it will take to get to the manifold.
So anything beyond valve cover gaskets?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Hm it's been a while since I did my valve cover gaskets, but here's some things that I remember replacing.
-Spark plugs
-Spark plug wires - can't go wrong with NGK or Denso for less than $60
-Intake manifold gasket
-EGR tube gasket
-Throttle body heater hose - cracked from age and started leaking as I rotated the intake manifold over
Other things that I didn't replace, but worth considering.
-Any old miscellaneous heater/coolant/vacuum hoses under there or around the throttle body that have aged and hard to reach
-Rear cam o-rings are cheap and might be easier to reach with the manifold off as well
Also nothing to do with the manifold coming off, but have you updated your crank pulley bolt?
More info here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/137347-quick-revised-updated-crank-bolt-question/page2
-Spark plugs
-Spark plug wires - can't go wrong with NGK or Denso for less than $60
-Intake manifold gasket
-EGR tube gasket
-Throttle body heater hose - cracked from age and started leaking as I rotated the intake manifold over
Other things that I didn't replace, but worth considering.
-Any old miscellaneous heater/coolant/vacuum hoses under there or around the throttle body that have aged and hard to reach
-Rear cam o-rings are cheap and might be easier to reach with the manifold off as well
Also nothing to do with the manifold coming off, but have you updated your crank pulley bolt?
More info here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/137347-quick-revised-updated-crank-bolt-question/page2
nckwltn
Explorer
Look into an ultra gauge, it's a full time obd2 device that gives you a slew of gauges as well as being a code reader. Price is around 65.
Also, check out https://www.maperformance.com for the trans fluid 7.04/qt.
Jus flushed my 99. Wise to pick up a full case and have extra vs being short a couple of quarts.
Also have cracked drivers exhaust manifold on my 03, probably will replace with OEM :-/
Yes, update crank bolt as soon as possible. You can do it without pulling the timing belt. I think I did mine by only removing the 4-10mm bolts and pulling the fan clutch and fan.
Also, check out https://www.maperformance.com for the trans fluid 7.04/qt.
Jus flushed my 99. Wise to pick up a full case and have extra vs being short a couple of quarts.
Also have cracked drivers exhaust manifold on my 03, probably will replace with OEM :-/
Yes, update crank bolt as soon as possible. You can do it without pulling the timing belt. I think I did mine by only removing the 4-10mm bolts and pulling the fan clutch and fan.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
I have an old iPad Mini that I'm thinking about using as a "car-puter." I ordered a wifi obd2 reader that should arrive in a few days. FYI be careful with these. Ordered an Ebay bluetooth one to use with my cell phone and it was one of the v2.1 models. Made my gauges go nuts and threw a speed sensor code.
Thanks for the tip on the fluid. I picked up a couple extra quarts from the dealer after the flush, but I'll keep it in mind for my next one. I think the prices were comparable though since my dealer gives me a 10% military discount.
Looks like I have the old bolt. One more thing on the list. I'll start hitting it with some liquid wrench to help with the removal process.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
This thread needs more pictures. I'll add some tomorrow of the roof cross beams now that I've added the third one.
My rear shocks arrived yesterday, my fronts are supposed to be here by Tuesday. I have the day off on Friday, so I'll be taking the Montero in to the Auto Hobby Shop on the nearby Navy base so I can use their lifts (it's around $20/day) and some of their tools. Pretty handy perk to have; I actually turned my brake rotors on my Accord on their lathe last year.
My plan for Friday:
Replace front and rear shocks.
Replace crankshaft pulley bolt (confirmed, I have the old one).
I'll be following the instructions in the FSM for both. I just need to fab that cool little Y tool to hold the pulley in place.
I've also noticed that my coil spring insulators on the rear are broken and terrible looking. I'm way over budget right now so I won't be ordering the OME coil springs yet, but do you think I should replace the insulators now? Or wait and do them with the coil springs?
I'm looking at some OEM Mitsubishi parts sites and the insulators seem to run 18-25 each, while aftermarket (like KYB) seem to be half that price.
Another topic:
The seller told me he had the timing belt changed last year... but there was no documentation. I now have two pieces of evidence that point to the timing belt not being replaced: The serpentine belt (Gates brand) was cracking so I replaced it (that ALWAYS gets replaced when doing a TB, right?), and the pulley bolt was not replaced. Now, if he took it to a non-Mitsubishi mechanic, how obvious would it have been to the techs to replace that bolt? Is that knowledge limited to us "enthusiasts" and Mitsu professionals? Or would there have been some flashing red light to let them know it needed replaced?
On that topic, is there any way to tell when the TB was changed, short of tearing the engine apart to find out? Maybe an access plate somewhere or...I don't know, something?
My rear shocks arrived yesterday, my fronts are supposed to be here by Tuesday. I have the day off on Friday, so I'll be taking the Montero in to the Auto Hobby Shop on the nearby Navy base so I can use their lifts (it's around $20/day) and some of their tools. Pretty handy perk to have; I actually turned my brake rotors on my Accord on their lathe last year.
My plan for Friday:
Replace front and rear shocks.
Replace crankshaft pulley bolt (confirmed, I have the old one).
I'll be following the instructions in the FSM for both. I just need to fab that cool little Y tool to hold the pulley in place.
I've also noticed that my coil spring insulators on the rear are broken and terrible looking. I'm way over budget right now so I won't be ordering the OME coil springs yet, but do you think I should replace the insulators now? Or wait and do them with the coil springs?
I'm looking at some OEM Mitsubishi parts sites and the insulators seem to run 18-25 each, while aftermarket (like KYB) seem to be half that price.
Another topic:
The seller told me he had the timing belt changed last year... but there was no documentation. I now have two pieces of evidence that point to the timing belt not being replaced: The serpentine belt (Gates brand) was cracking so I replaced it (that ALWAYS gets replaced when doing a TB, right?), and the pulley bolt was not replaced. Now, if he took it to a non-Mitsubishi mechanic, how obvious would it have been to the techs to replace that bolt? Is that knowledge limited to us "enthusiasts" and Mitsu professionals? Or would there have been some flashing red light to let them know it needed replaced?
On that topic, is there any way to tell when the TB was changed, short of tearing the engine apart to find out? Maybe an access plate somewhere or...I don't know, something?
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Some more work done
Since I'm sitting on my butt waiting for parts I decided to get started on something else I've wanted to do. I've had the CB radio physically installed in the lower DIN since the first week I bought the Montero, but I haven't powered it up since I haven't installed the antenna. I've looked at various places to install it, from mounting it to the roof rack (too tall), a forward-facing bolt through the spare tire carrier (not enough clearance with the tire in place), to bolting it through the body panels on rear door (trying to minimize holes, that would require four 3/8in holes and one 1/2in or larger).
I finally hit upon a solution. I will still have to drill a hole in the rear door, but it's only one hole and I will be sealing it quite heavily. Pics below.
I bought a "mirror mount" for the antenna from Ebay, planning to mount it as designed along a bolt. I tried, but as stated above, not enough clearance. The bolts are also too short to mount to the roof rack, so that was out (along with not wanting a 5ft antenna waving about overhead).
I've been looking at the spare tire carrier as a possible location for my jerry can holder when all of a sudden, a light bulb turned on. Why not bolt it to the side of the tire carrier? I did a test fit and the antenna will clear the tire, though just barely.
Below are the in progress shots.
Ta da! Now I just need to work up the courage to drill a 1/2in hole in my rear door panel so I can get the wire/plug through and attach it to the antenna.
Since I'm sitting on my butt waiting for parts I decided to get started on something else I've wanted to do. I've had the CB radio physically installed in the lower DIN since the first week I bought the Montero, but I haven't powered it up since I haven't installed the antenna. I've looked at various places to install it, from mounting it to the roof rack (too tall), a forward-facing bolt through the spare tire carrier (not enough clearance with the tire in place), to bolting it through the body panels on rear door (trying to minimize holes, that would require four 3/8in holes and one 1/2in or larger).
I finally hit upon a solution. I will still have to drill a hole in the rear door, but it's only one hole and I will be sealing it quite heavily. Pics below.
I bought a "mirror mount" for the antenna from Ebay, planning to mount it as designed along a bolt. I tried, but as stated above, not enough clearance. The bolts are also too short to mount to the roof rack, so that was out (along with not wanting a 5ft antenna waving about overhead).
I've been looking at the spare tire carrier as a possible location for my jerry can holder when all of a sudden, a light bulb turned on. Why not bolt it to the side of the tire carrier? I did a test fit and the antenna will clear the tire, though just barely.
Below are the in progress shots.
Ta da! Now I just need to work up the courage to drill a 1/2in hole in my rear door panel so I can get the wire/plug through and attach it to the antenna.
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EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Gen3 Redneck Roof Rack (almost) finished product
Here are some pictures of the roof rack with the third cross member installed. I will be cutting down the bolts ASAP so it doesn't look as terrible. Also, the cross members are evenly spaced, trust me. It's the angle that makes it look kinda wonky.
Here are some pictures of the roof rack with the third cross member installed. I will be cutting down the bolts ASAP so it doesn't look as terrible. Also, the cross members are evenly spaced, trust me. It's the angle that makes it look kinda wonky.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Could use some advice
Autozone is running a promo right now, spend $100 on a ship-to-home and you get a $35 gift card. Not a bad deal. With that in mind, are there any parts/pieces anyone here would recommend that tend to fail at the most inopportune times? Any known weaknesses that I could prepare for? The only part I can think of that I need right now is a new set of spark plug wires, but their price on NGK is $114 (!).
Also, they won't ship gear oil to me, only pick up in store, so that's not happening.
So, what spare parts and/or tools would be good to have when I'm hundreds of miles from home and X breaks?
Autozone is running a promo right now, spend $100 on a ship-to-home and you get a $35 gift card. Not a bad deal. With that in mind, are there any parts/pieces anyone here would recommend that tend to fail at the most inopportune times? Any known weaknesses that I could prepare for? The only part I can think of that I need right now is a new set of spark plug wires, but their price on NGK is $114 (!).
Also, they won't ship gear oil to me, only pick up in store, so that's not happening.
So, what spare parts and/or tools would be good to have when I'm hundreds of miles from home and X breaks?
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
On the cusp of something great...
Not really. But I did get my struts yesterday, completing the set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks/struts for my Montero. I will (probably) install them tomorrow depending on how productive I am.
I contacted my dealer for the new crank pulley bolt and washer. I'd heard $4-6/bolt, $2/washer thrown around somewhere. Wrong. The updated bolt, 1100A141, is listed at $10.35 and the washer, MR994412, is listed at $7.02. I checked around online and my dealer prices still beat anything else I saw. I could save a buck or two at some OEM part warehouses, but shipping would push it back over the total from my dealer. The parts guy had to order it from a nearby warehouse, so they SHOULD be in tomorrow. Still need to make my fancy tool to hold the pulley in place.
I'm in a bit of a quandary here. The exhaust manifold was shipped from NJ a couple days ago so I'll be bringing it in to my mechanic when it arrives. I'm thinking that while he's in there I'm going to have him do a few other things. I'm going to ask him tomorrow, but maybe some of the 3.5L experts in here know. Will he have to remove the intake plenum to get to the driver's side exhaust manifold? If so, does the intake gasket need replaced as well?
If so, I'd like to get one ordered ASAP. Also, if it needs replaced every time the plenum is removed, as I have seen written regarding other years with the same engine, then I might have him do the plugs and wires as well, plus the valve cover gaskets. If it's around $15 each time the plenum is removed I might just bite the bullet to a certain extent.
Anything else you would recommend while he's in there? I think the valve seals might bump my price up beyond my budget, though I might check with him for a quote. Right now I'm looking at $150 labor for the manifold. Not trying to make that labor quote sky rocket.
I'm also going to try to finish the CB antenna install tomorrow. I'm just struggling to find a grommet that is the right size (3/4in exterior diameter, 1/8in or so interior).
Not really. But I did get my struts yesterday, completing the set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks/struts for my Montero. I will (probably) install them tomorrow depending on how productive I am.
I contacted my dealer for the new crank pulley bolt and washer. I'd heard $4-6/bolt, $2/washer thrown around somewhere. Wrong. The updated bolt, 1100A141, is listed at $10.35 and the washer, MR994412, is listed at $7.02. I checked around online and my dealer prices still beat anything else I saw. I could save a buck or two at some OEM part warehouses, but shipping would push it back over the total from my dealer. The parts guy had to order it from a nearby warehouse, so they SHOULD be in tomorrow. Still need to make my fancy tool to hold the pulley in place.
I'm in a bit of a quandary here. The exhaust manifold was shipped from NJ a couple days ago so I'll be bringing it in to my mechanic when it arrives. I'm thinking that while he's in there I'm going to have him do a few other things. I'm going to ask him tomorrow, but maybe some of the 3.5L experts in here know. Will he have to remove the intake plenum to get to the driver's side exhaust manifold? If so, does the intake gasket need replaced as well?
If so, I'd like to get one ordered ASAP. Also, if it needs replaced every time the plenum is removed, as I have seen written regarding other years with the same engine, then I might have him do the plugs and wires as well, plus the valve cover gaskets. If it's around $15 each time the plenum is removed I might just bite the bullet to a certain extent.
Anything else you would recommend while he's in there? I think the valve seals might bump my price up beyond my budget, though I might check with him for a quote. Right now I'm looking at $150 labor for the manifold. Not trying to make that labor quote sky rocket.
I'm also going to try to finish the CB antenna install tomorrow. I'm just struggling to find a grommet that is the right size (3/4in exterior diameter, 1/8in or so interior).
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
New shocks
I got the front KYB shocks installed today. I was going to do the back shocks at home since I wouldn't need a spring compressor, but my crummy little Harbor Freight jack wasn't tall enough to let the tires clear the ground when lifting from the center. I loaded everything up and headed to the Auto Hobby Shop on base and rented a stall ($1/hour, no charge for tools). I opened the boxes in the back, and imagine my surprise when I saw this:
Oops. That's what I get for using RockAuto and not checking immediately.
I ordered KG5743. The other is 554317 RA-16. The barcode on the box was for a KG5743, and the design looks identical. When I search 554317 on Google I only get hits in Russian. Maybe it's the Russian model number for KYB's Montero shocks?
Either way, I got the new front shocks in. I used the FSM, though I skipped removing the upper control arm and just wiggled it out.
Quick description of how to remove front shock assembly for a Gen 3 Montero (haven't seen one on here):
Passenger Side:
Jack up from frame (not control arm like when changing a tire)
Remove wheel
Remove air filter box cover and air filter
Remove air filter box
*
Remove three nuts below where box was (14mm)
Remove plastic cap
Remove three 12mm nuts on upper control arm
Remove shock bolt on bottom (21mm)
Lift upper control arm to give you some wiggle room while pulling down on the shock assembly
Use whatever spring compressor is available to you and replace shock.
Driver's Side:
Disconnect battery
Remove battery
Disconnect radiator overflow container (10mm(?) deep socket, though a nut driver would be better)
Remove battery tray
Disconnect plastic wire holder from bolt
Go to asterisk above
Re-assembly:
Lift upper control arm, wiggle shock, swear, curse me for not telling you to remove the upper control arm
Slide into place (get the top bolts through the holes first, then use a prybar to set the bottom)
Re-attach nuts on top, and bolt on bottom.
Place jack underneath the lower control arm and raise it up.
Replace three bolts on upper control arm.
Tighten all bolts to spec (don't forget lower bolt).
Replace wheel
Put the other stuff back
Drink beer
All in all it's a quick job. The shop on base had a pneumatic spring compressor which made my life so much easier. Felt a little better on the drive home, though that could be the placebo effect.
I got the front KYB shocks installed today. I was going to do the back shocks at home since I wouldn't need a spring compressor, but my crummy little Harbor Freight jack wasn't tall enough to let the tires clear the ground when lifting from the center. I loaded everything up and headed to the Auto Hobby Shop on base and rented a stall ($1/hour, no charge for tools). I opened the boxes in the back, and imagine my surprise when I saw this:
Oops. That's what I get for using RockAuto and not checking immediately.
I ordered KG5743. The other is 554317 RA-16. The barcode on the box was for a KG5743, and the design looks identical. When I search 554317 on Google I only get hits in Russian. Maybe it's the Russian model number for KYB's Montero shocks?
Either way, I got the new front shocks in. I used the FSM, though I skipped removing the upper control arm and just wiggled it out.
Quick description of how to remove front shock assembly for a Gen 3 Montero (haven't seen one on here):
Passenger Side:
Jack up from frame (not control arm like when changing a tire)
Remove wheel
Remove air filter box cover and air filter
Remove air filter box
*
Remove three nuts below where box was (14mm)
Remove plastic cap
Remove three 12mm nuts on upper control arm
Remove shock bolt on bottom (21mm)
Lift upper control arm to give you some wiggle room while pulling down on the shock assembly
Use whatever spring compressor is available to you and replace shock.
Driver's Side:
Disconnect battery
Remove battery
Disconnect radiator overflow container (10mm(?) deep socket, though a nut driver would be better)
Remove battery tray
Disconnect plastic wire holder from bolt
Go to asterisk above
Re-assembly:
Lift upper control arm, wiggle shock, swear, curse me for not telling you to remove the upper control arm
Slide into place (get the top bolts through the holes first, then use a prybar to set the bottom)
Re-attach nuts on top, and bolt on bottom.
Place jack underneath the lower control arm and raise it up.
Replace three bolts on upper control arm.
Tighten all bolts to spec (don't forget lower bolt).
Replace wheel
Put the other stuff back
Drink beer
All in all it's a quick job. The shop on base had a pneumatic spring compressor which made my life so much easier. Felt a little better on the drive home, though that could be the placebo effect.
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
CB Antenna Cable has been run
I finally had enough free time to finish running the CB antenna cable. I would recommend to all that when you get a CB, get a cable that is NOT premade, that way you can crimp the end yourself and minimize hole size (plus it would be easier to run).
I routed the cable around the passenger side footwell and back along the passenger side cable channel. I couldn't access the cable channel once I hit the back seat/wheel well, so I used a large flathead screwdriver to push the cable underneath the trim. The only exposed section is where it goes through the third row seat side mount doors. The then routed it through the back corner and up to the rubber boot connecting the rear door electrical to the body. I removed the rear door trim and the glass cleaner reservoir, drilled a 5/8in hole to the outside world, and routed the cable through. I used two grommets, one inside the other, since I couldn't find a rubber grommet with the dimensions I needed. I'm not to worried about this redneck fix since I used a bunch of sealant I had laying around on both sides. Since it's hidden from the outside world I'm not too concerned with how it looks. I might also look into an aerosol sealant to give the outside one or two more coats just in case.
Sorry for the lack of pics, I was running out of daylight and wanted to get this done.
For the CB radio power, I drilled a 3/8in hole in the firewall in the passenger side footwell and ran a 10ga cable from the battery over to my new access hole. I used the open slot on the fusible link, installed a 60a fuse, and a ring terminal to connect to the fusible link. I will be re-routing this once I get the second battery installed, so as to run the CB from the house battery.
Below is my proposed wiring diagram (behold my mighty Paint skills). Any reason this won't work or could be better done another way?
I finally had enough free time to finish running the CB antenna cable. I would recommend to all that when you get a CB, get a cable that is NOT premade, that way you can crimp the end yourself and minimize hole size (plus it would be easier to run).
I routed the cable around the passenger side footwell and back along the passenger side cable channel. I couldn't access the cable channel once I hit the back seat/wheel well, so I used a large flathead screwdriver to push the cable underneath the trim. The only exposed section is where it goes through the third row seat side mount doors. The then routed it through the back corner and up to the rubber boot connecting the rear door electrical to the body. I removed the rear door trim and the glass cleaner reservoir, drilled a 5/8in hole to the outside world, and routed the cable through. I used two grommets, one inside the other, since I couldn't find a rubber grommet with the dimensions I needed. I'm not to worried about this redneck fix since I used a bunch of sealant I had laying around on both sides. Since it's hidden from the outside world I'm not too concerned with how it looks. I might also look into an aerosol sealant to give the outside one or two more coats just in case.
Sorry for the lack of pics, I was running out of daylight and wanted to get this done.
For the CB radio power, I drilled a 3/8in hole in the firewall in the passenger side footwell and ran a 10ga cable from the battery over to my new access hole. I used the open slot on the fusible link, installed a 60a fuse, and a ring terminal to connect to the fusible link. I will be re-routing this once I get the second battery installed, so as to run the CB from the house battery.
Below is my proposed wiring diagram (behold my mighty Paint skills). Any reason this won't work or could be better done another way?
EyeInTheSky
Adventurer
Well that was a terrible way to spend my day off. I started around noon and am just now sitting down to relax. I replaced the driver's side exhaust manifold, and man was it tight in there. Busted a couple knuckles and at times used every single extension/adapter I had. The manifold was definitely cracked, so at least it wasn't all for nothing. The problem is, I now am getting smoke from the EGR Pipe (1582A188).
If you look at the diagram there's a large fitting on the bottom that screws into the manifold. That's where I'm getting my smoke. The problem is that it's a 28mm nut, and I don't have a wrench, adjustable or not, that is big enough. I used some channel locks to tighten it down, but I guess that wasn't enough. Going to go look for my vice grips and see if I can torque it down a little more. Really looking forward to opening these scabs on my knuckles again. This should be fun.
If you look at the diagram there's a large fitting on the bottom that screws into the manifold. That's where I'm getting my smoke. The problem is that it's a 28mm nut, and I don't have a wrench, adjustable or not, that is big enough. I used some channel locks to tighten it down, but I guess that wasn't enough. Going to go look for my vice grips and see if I can torque it down a little more. Really looking forward to opening these scabs on my knuckles again. This should be fun.
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