EyeInTheSky's Gen 3 Budget Build Thread

[EyeInTheSky]

Update: Smoke is gone. My vise grip did the trick.

Below is a photo of the exhaust manifold's crack. Anyone need an exhaust manifold for cheap that they can take to a welder? No reason to keep this around.





Also, look what I picked up... $16 out the door at my dealer. Not looking forward to this. I want to do more fun stuff like installing my loudspeaker!'

 

[normal_dave]

Spark plug wires (and such...)
A while back Rock Auto sent an email with wholesaler closeout parts for my '02 Montero, a slick marketing move, since I ordered several items I needed, and a few I might need later:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1387975&m=wc&l=en&html=true

FWIW, I chose the Standard Motor Products 5608 plug wire set closeout at $ 41.79. I got a slightly faded/crushed box with a perfectly packaged USA made 5608 plug wire set that was as close to OEM as I have ever gotten. They are listed as OEM performance plus 5MM, and were a perfect fit. Our OEM wires are a little thin, so don't let that alone worry you. I've always had good luck over the years with Standard's "premium" product. This said from the guy who most always advises and does get OEM. (well, ok most of the time).

Now it appears all they have left is the regular stock at the higher price. The alternate Standard "intermotor" 55201 private label version on sale, may or may not be the premium 5608, but if you are willing to chance it...you might get lucky, but for the amount of labor, the regular $ 57.xx price on the 5608 is well worth it.

I did not use the Fel pro valve cover gaskets, stubbornly stick with OEM, but I did take advantage of the sale on the spark plug tube seals, and the Fel Pro closeout valve stem seal set. I've installed one set on the wife's truck about a year ago, and they continue to work great.

I also used a coupon code for some Denso spark plugs at Advance auto parts, buy online pickup in store: When I used Denso's cross reference chart, these came up as the modern replacement, and with the coupon code were priced right, and on the shelf at the local store. Denso IK16/5303
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/denso-ik16-iridium-power-spark-plug-5303/20650552-P?searchTerm=spark+plug

I'm also going to heartily endorse Evoscan software and cable for OBDII to use for codes on our Montero. The software does much more including re-flash capability for Mitsubishi Evos, (which we won't use of course), but it sure is handy to plug in the laptop, pull codes, read them clearly, clear codes, and even save/print the file, plus I'm supporting a Mitsubishi enthusiast/author, about $ 87.00 delivered.
http://evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-obdii-cables/details/13/1/performance-vehicle-pc-diagnostic-interfaces/openport-13d-usb-obdii/mutiii/ssmii-datalogging-cable

 

[normal_dave]

Timing belt inspection:

Without written proof we're all just guessing but, here's some info I picked up from DougC at justanswer.com and my own recent spark plug change work.

You can pull the passenger side upper timing cover fairly easily, well loosen it to be accurate. Three bolts through the top of the cover. Then you can pull the cover up and forward exposing the timing belt on the passenger side camshaft gear. At this point you can easily do a visual inspection of the top/outside surface of the timing belt. Before everybody gets wound up, hear me out.

Look for a smooth surface without oil damage. Look for cracks in the surface of the belt, similar to what you would see on a sidewall of an older tire. Look for gaps/strips missing from the belt, and/or material falling out from the sides. Most important, mark the belt with a chalk mark, consider removing your engine computer fuse, and bump the starter, or turn the crank bolt by hand with a breaker bar. Do this in small increments inspecting your belt at each segment until you've made a full rotation. At some point you will get to the place where the belt specs/manufacturer information was stamped on the outside of the belt. If it is very legible, and in good condition, then the belt has most likely been changed fairly recently, maybe the last 10-20K or so? If the stamp is darkened, degraded, illegible etc. then you may be due for a new belt, since the heat, wear/tear will degrade the stamp as well as the belt itself.

Nice new stamp, clean/smooth exterior surface on the belt, probably good to go, If it is looking aged or you just don't feel good about it, get a new belt, not worth the risk. (consider the full Aisin kit with Koyo idler and tensioner).

 

[EyeInTheSky]

I'll address all the points in your posts NormalDave, but I need to get to bed because tomorrow the wife, dog, and I are going to Hungry Valley SVRA to take advantage of a rare shared day off. Trip report and pics to follow.

I do thank you for the information, especially the timing belt info. Definitely going to be cracking the FSM open.

 

[nckwltn]

There is a good thread in the solar section of expo with a similar write-up (with links to some products) to making a quick and dirty dual battery setup. I did it this weekend.

Tip: You can tap into the wiper motor for acc-switched power to activate your solenoid.

I want to wire in a master override, but will save that for another weekend

 

[EyeInTheSky]

There is a good thread in the solar section of expo with a similar write-up (with links to some products) to making a quick and dirty dual battery setup. I did it this weekend.

Tip: You can tap into the wiper motor for acc-switched power to activate your solenoid.

I want to wire in a master override, but will save that for another weekend

Where did you mount your second battery on the gen3?

 

[nckwltn]

Gen 2.... Right now it's just in the cargo area. I think on the get 3 there is room on the passenger side under the hood. Not on the gen2 though

 

[EyeInTheSky]

Spark plug wires (and such...)
A while back Rock Auto sent an email with wholesaler closeout parts for my '02 Montero, a slick marketing move, since I ordered several items I needed, and a few I might need later:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1387975&m=wc&l=en&html=true
FWIW, I chose the Standard Motor Products 5608 plug wire set closeout at $ 41.79. I got a slightly faded/crushed box with a perfectly packaged USA made 5608 plug wire set that was as close to OEM as I have ever gotten. They are listed as OEM performance plus 5MM, and were a perfect fit. Our OEM wires are a little thin, so don't let that alone worry you. I've always had good luck over the years with Standard's "premium" product. This said from the guy who most always advises and does get OEM. (well, ok most of the time).
Now it appears all they have left is the regular stock at the higher price. The alternate Standard "intermotor" 55201 private label version on sale, may or may not be the premium 5608, but if you are willing to chance it...you might get lucky, but for the amount of labor, the regular $ 57.xx price on the 5608 is well worth it.
I did not use the Fel pro valve cover gaskets, stubbornly stick with OEM, but I did take advantage of the sale on the spark plug tube seals, and the Fel Pro closeout valve stem seal set. I've installed one set on the wife's truck about a year ago, and they continue to work great.
I also used a coupon code for some Denso spark plugs at Advance auto parts, buy online pickup in store: When I used Denso's cross reference chart, these came up as the modern replacement, and with the coupon code were priced right, and on the shelf at the local store. Denso IK16/5303
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/denso-ik16-iridium-power-spark-plug-5303/20650552-P?searchTerm=spark+plug

I’m going to file this away for future reference. I’m going to pull the only plug that looks accessible sometime this week and see what kind of shape it’s in and determine if I need to do plugs/wires. I might save it for a more in-depth job though since I’ll have to remove the plenum.

I'm also going to heartily endorse Evoscan software and cable for OBDII to use for codes on our Montero. The software does much more including re-flash capability for Mitsubishi Evos, (which we won't use of course), but it sure is handy to plug in the laptop, pull codes, read them clearly, clear codes, and even save/print the file, plus I'm supporting a Mitsubishi enthusiast/author, about $ 87.00 delivered.
http://evoscan.com/evoscan-gps-obdii-cables/details/13/1/performance-vehicle-pc-diagnostic-interfaces/openport-13d-usb-obdii/mutiii/ssmii-datalogging-cable

I bought a Bluetooth OBDII reader (was supposed to be wifi, but he refunded me the entire price… can’t complain about free I guess). It’s been really useful, but there are some limitations to the free software. I was considering buying Torque Pro, but the Torque Lite is missing some sensors, such as Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2, among others. They show on other apps, just not Torque. Going to do some more research on that.

I might consider the Evoscan software if I need to pull the more specialized codes at some point (SRS etc.) Learned the hard way on my wife’s old Kia that sometimes those codes can’t be read by a standard reader.

Timing belt inspection:
Without written proof we're all just guessing but, here's some info I picked up from DougC at justanswer.com and my own recent spark plug change work.
You can pull the passenger side upper timing cover fairly easily, well loosen it to be accurate. Three bolts through the top of the cover. Then you can pull the cover up and forward exposing the timing belt on the passenger side camshaft gear. At this point you can easily do a visual inspection of the top/outside surface of the timing belt. Before everybody gets wound up, hear me out.
Look for a smooth surface without oil damage. Look for cracks in the surface of the belt, similar to what you would see on a sidewall of an older tire. Look for gaps/strips missing from the belt, and/or material falling out from the sides. Most important, mark the belt with a chalk mark, consider removing your engine computer fuse, and bump the starter, or turn the crank bolt by hand with a breaker bar. Do this in small increments inspecting your belt at each segment until you've made a full rotation. At some point you will get to the place where the belt specs/manufacturer information was stamped on the outside of the belt. If it is very legible, and in good condition, then the belt has most likely been changed fairly recently, maybe the last 10-20K or so? If the stamp is darkened, degraded, illegible etc. then you may be due for a new belt, since the heat, wear/tear will degrade the stamp as well as the belt itself.
Nice new stamp, clean/smooth exterior surface on the belt, probably good to go, If it is looking aged or you just don't feel good about it, get a new belt, not worth the risk. (consider the full Aisin kit with Koyo idler and tensioner).

I took a look at the timing belt cover; you’re right, it looks pretty easy to pull forward. I’ll take a peek on my next day off and see what I can find. I noticed a small, squareish hole on the front…. Is that supposed to be plugged?

 

[EyeInTheSky]

Quick Trip Report - Hungry Valley SVRA

Had a blast with the wife and pup out at Gorman yesterday. The weather was Seattle-esque, but that was fine with me. We'd never been so we missed that the south entrance is Smokey Bear, so we came in the north entrance. We paid our princely sum of $5 and got a map. We decided to mostly stick to "green" routes since I don't have true mud tires and I'm still getting used to the rig. We took Powerline up and around almost to the eastern edge. I honestly didn't enjoy it very much, since I'm not a fan of hillsides where a sneeze or slide could send you tumbling down. The Montero was fine through most of it, though a steeper section with pretty serious mud sent me sliding sideways towards the edge. That was exciting. I locked the center diff and off we went again.

We took the main road down the middle and explored some of the tamer trails by the campgrounds. We then went over to the 4x4 Practice Area and watched a guy in a 4runner remove a fender flare in the rock garden. My wife had never seen rock crawling before so it was interesting watching her reaction (mainly consisted of "Oh my God. Why?").

We then went and played in the mud. I might have gotten a little... exuberant in one of the mud troughs. Pictures below will show that exuberance. Also, any tips on cleaning dried mud from a radiator?

I had fun teaching her about 4wd. I had her drive on the muddy flat area in 2wd, then 4wd, then 4wd with the center diff locked. She had so much fun and gained a better appreciation of the systems in the Montero. She also couldn't stop giggling as she slid around in 2wd. She did around 12 laps in that small area, just letting the back end wander.

We meandered toward the south entrance, finding random trails and switching up drivers from time to time. We both really enjoyed it and will definitely be going back more often. A great place to learn the ropes of offroad driving.

Some during and after photos:

 

[EyeInTheSky]

Hungry Valley SVRA - Continued

Here are some more pics from Gorman, as well as a video. The mud pits in the 4x4 Practice Area were so fun.

https://youtu.be/Tf-edKpZdxs

 

[EyeInTheSky]

Dual Battery Setup

Here's a screenshot of my work in progress sketch for a battery mount for my Montero. I'm planning to use that empty space by the passenger side firewall in the engine compartment. Once I get it completed I'll upload the sketch with measurements for anyone who would like to copy it to make their own.

Any thoughts? I have access to a welder and plasma cutter, no press brake though. Thinking about heating the steel and bending it in a vise.



This angle would be from rear to front with the vertical up against the passenger side of the engine compartment.

Just picked up some scrap metal from a local steel place for pretty cheap.

 

[OuterLimits]

Enjoying following your build. :bigok:

Here are some links with examples of dual battery mounts from "down under".

http://www.arb.com.au/mitsubishi-pajeromontero-nm-2000-2003/battery-kits/

http://offroaddownunder.com.au/product/dual-battery-tray-mitsubishi-pajero-nm-to-nt-nw/

lots of mounting location pics on google:
https://www.google.com/search?q=mon...ved=0ahUKEwiPrLGY84vQAhUpqVQKHUGKATAQ_AUICCgB

"Eye in the sky" Alan Parsons fan???

Cheer

 

[EyeInTheSky]

Enjoying following your build. :bigok:

Here are some links with examples of dual battery mounts from "down under".

http://www.arb.com.au/mitsubishi-pajeromontero-nm-2000-2003/battery-kits/

http://offroaddownunder.com.au/product/dual-battery-tray-mitsubishi-pajero-nm-to-nt-nw/

lots of mounting location pics on google:
https://www.google.com/search?q=mon...ved=0ahUKEwiPrLGY84vQAhUpqVQKHUGKATAQ_AUICCgB

"Eye in the sky" Alan Parsons fan???

Cheer TR

Thanks fugitive. I had seen the second link you posted but not the ARB brand one. I like that the ARB install sticks them right next to each other, though I'd have to move a bunch if stuff to make that feasible on mine.

I have yet to see any evidence of anyone actually doing an install like I plan. Found a couple threads talking about it, and one guy who mounted an optima sideways in that location. That's it. Not sure why since it's the perfect location.

On the Aussie dual batteries the ABS system is on the right side of the vehicle, not the left, so the space they have is unique with different dimensions and bolt patterns. I've seen people stick them in the 3rd row seat compartment, but I find that storage space to be too valuable for a battery.

Can't wait to get this installed, since it's a bottleneck on a bunch of other mods.

My username is what I do as a career actually.

 

[OuterLimits]

I have been toying around with picking up a gen3 3.8L Montero, but they are few and far between. Hard to find to find the right platform. Too many HIGH mileage, and too many with a history of multiple "failed emissions" problems in CA.

I've been poking around the Montero forum for ideas and found your post. I like capable and simple. :smiley_drive:

FYI: Your mud video is OK, but your puppy videos are adorable!

re: EyeInTheSky. I'm guessing you participate in airborne play with the Navy.

(If you like old school music, you should still check out some Alan Parson's Project on YouTube).

I'll be watching to see how you sort out the dual batts!

Cheers

 

[EyeInTheSky]

I have been toying around with picking up a gen3 3.8L Montero, but they are few and far between. Hard to find to find the right platform. Too many HIGH mileage, and too many with a history of multiple "failed emissions" problems in CA.

Oh man... just looked up smog results in CA. Monteros seem to fail much more often than other vehicles. Check out this database.

http://www.sacbee.com/site-services/databases/article72718117.html

Also, not sure if you've used this or not, but it's a good tool. Type in the VIN or license plate and you get smog history on a vehicle (plus it confirms year/model).
https://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/vehicle/pubtstqry.aspx

If I could go back and do it again I think I'd try to find a 3.8L. I went with a 3.5L for parts availability/interchangeability with the previous years, but since it's hard to find parts anyway I don't think it could get much worse. The power boost would be nice. Ideally, 3.2 diesel. But hey, California.

I've been poking around the Montero forum for ideas and found your post. I like capable and simple. :smiley_drive:

Glad I could provide some inspiration. That's exactly why I made this thread: to pay it forward like all the threads I used for ideas.

FYI: Your mud video is OK, but your puppy videos are adorable!

She is pretty awesome. She is now over 6x the weight when we got her. 8lbs to 50lbs.

re: EyeInTheSky. I'm guessing you participate in airborne play with the Navy.

OPSEC fugitive, OPSEC. Not quite. But fun stuff.

(If you like old school music, you should still check out some Alan Parson's Project on YouTube).

I'll be watching to see how you sort out the dual batts!

Cheers, TR

I'm mostly a country guy but I'll have a listen.

Hoping to whip up the mounts this weekend with a buddy who's a pretty good welder. We'll see. Once that's in it will be down to creating the actual wiring system. See my next post for more details.