loren85022
Explorer
Thats a winner. Details look great.
Fiberglass M416/M100 Military-style Trailer Tub Kit
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Nate,
Yes, when I did the design for my fiberglass cover, I designed it so that it could be adapted to an M416.
Jeff
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Sorry, don't need an apprentice, this is a hobby for me, not a business
.From time to time I think about offering a class of some sort to forum members interested in learning how to design and build fiberglass components, but for two reasons, I've always decided against it. First, since I do this as a hobby in my home workshop and garage, I really don't have a facility that lends itself to a group training/work session. And second, I live in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York, which isn't really close to anywhere people might be coming from to attend the session.
But... a friend I met recently through the forums has a Jeep-tub trailer, and he wants a different style tailgate for it. So I'm going to give him a tutorial on how to do a tailgate in fiberglass - we'll use my existing molds with a few minor mods to suit the specific tailgate features he's looking to build, and he'll do the fiberglass work under my supervision. I plan to lay up a part I'm making as an example to show him how to do it, and then he'll do the fiberglass layup for his tailgate parts himself, so he'll get some hands-on experience. Should be fun.
I do try to post as much design and construction information for my projects as I can, with the idea that someone interested in doing this themselves could learn from my posts. If ever anyone has any design or fiberglass questions, they should feel free to ask, I'll always do my best to answer.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I've posted many photos of the trailer with jerry cans and a storage box on the front rack, but up until today I haven't bolted the storage box in place. The reason is that the tie-down straps for the cans have latches on the front, and the storage box gets in the way of unlatching them.
Yesterday I solved that problem by making new straps that have the latches on the side of the can:
Now the box and cans are bolted in place, and the can locks/latches can easily be accessed from the side.
The new straps are very similar to the commercial straps they replaced. They're made from 14-gauge sheet metal, and they use the same type of latch although they aren't the latches the commercial strap came with - I swapped these latches onto the commercial straps because I wanted the straps to be adjustable so the cans could be snugged down really well.
To secure the straps to the bases, I pop-riveted a pair of footman loops to each base; these were on a Wrangler tub that's sitting in my garage. The ends of the straps have a hook bent in them to hook around the footman loop.
The strap above doesn't have a finish on it, the strap below has 22mm heat shrink tubing slid over it and shrunk tight. The heat shrink tubing is from Harbor Freight; I thought it would make a nice non-scratch covering for the straps.
I haven't decided if I'll paint them, do them both in heat shrink, or perhaps do them in something like plasti-dip.
But in any case everything is bolted down now and ready for the road.
Yesterday I solved that problem by making new straps that have the latches on the side of the can:
Now the box and cans are bolted in place, and the can locks/latches can easily be accessed from the side.
The new straps are very similar to the commercial straps they replaced. They're made from 14-gauge sheet metal, and they use the same type of latch although they aren't the latches the commercial strap came with - I swapped these latches onto the commercial straps because I wanted the straps to be adjustable so the cans could be snugged down really well.
To secure the straps to the bases, I pop-riveted a pair of footman loops to each base; these were on a Wrangler tub that's sitting in my garage. The ends of the straps have a hook bent in them to hook around the footman loop.
The strap above doesn't have a finish on it, the strap below has 22mm heat shrink tubing slid over it and shrunk tight. The heat shrink tubing is from Harbor Freight; I thought it would make a nice non-scratch covering for the straps.
I haven't decided if I'll paint them, do them both in heat shrink, or perhaps do them in something like plasti-dip.
But in any case everything is bolted down now and ready for the road.
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jscherb
Expedition Leader
A few people have told me they don't really like the Jeep-style tailgate on the military trailer, they said they think the trailer should have a tailgate less identifiable as Jeep, so I suggested the Dinoot smooth tailgate:
They said that one was nice, but they thought it should have a squared-off top to match the tub, rather than the angled top that the Dinoot tailgate has (which matches the top edge of a Jeep tub).
So I designed a fairly simple DIY-welding-project tailgate to demonstrate how they could get the styling they wanted...
I started fabricating one mostly out of scrap and cutoff pieces of steel had around or scrounged from the cutoff bin of my friendly local fab shop. In this next photo I've got the weatherstrip lip welded together; the top bar is just setting in place for now. Also on the workbench is a factory CJ tailgate, it's there so I can make direct comparison measurements (because the M72 tailgate opening matches the Jeep tailgate opening).
I just received a pair of tailgate cable brackets from Compact Camping for testing, they're meant to replace the getting-hard-to-find factory CJ tailgate brackets and they're pretty nice:
I'll test them on the existing tailgate on the trailer and I'll also test them on this metal tailgate.
Also in the photo are the latches I plan to use on this one, they're also from Compact Camping; the inset photo shows what they look like on the outside.
I'll be making a few changes from the original concept sketch to the attachment points for the hinges and cable brackets based on the final dimensions; I'll post an updated and dimensioned drawing after I finish fabrication.
They said that one was nice, but they thought it should have a squared-off top to match the tub, rather than the angled top that the Dinoot tailgate has (which matches the top edge of a Jeep tub).
So I designed a fairly simple DIY-welding-project tailgate to demonstrate how they could get the styling they wanted...
I started fabricating one mostly out of scrap and cutoff pieces of steel had around or scrounged from the cutoff bin of my friendly local fab shop. In this next photo I've got the weatherstrip lip welded together; the top bar is just setting in place for now. Also on the workbench is a factory CJ tailgate, it's there so I can make direct comparison measurements (because the M72 tailgate opening matches the Jeep tailgate opening).
I just received a pair of tailgate cable brackets from Compact Camping for testing, they're meant to replace the getting-hard-to-find factory CJ tailgate brackets and they're pretty nice:
I'll test them on the existing tailgate on the trailer and I'll also test them on this metal tailgate.
Also in the photo are the latches I plan to use on this one, they're also from Compact Camping; the inset photo shows what they look like on the outside.
I'll be making a few changes from the original concept sketch to the attachment points for the hinges and cable brackets based on the final dimensions; I'll post an updated and dimensioned drawing after I finish fabrication.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Yes, for the fiberglass cover I'm using cut-down Stanley hinges, I cut them down to turn them into "lift off" hinges so the cover can quickly be removed without unbolting the hinges. I haven't done extensive washboard testing yet, but I don't think it will be a problem because the compression of the weatherstrip for the cover keeps constant pressure on the hinges/hinge pins, as do the gas struts. When the top is closed and latched, there's very good tension on the hinges, so I don't think there will be any opportunity for anything to move.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Progress update on the metal tailgate project.
Based on the actual dimensions (instead of the from-memory dimensions I used when I did the design drawing while on my trip), I was able to weld the nuts for the hinges directly to the bottom angle; a separate bracket wasn't necessary as shown in the original drawing. I'll probably do the same for the tailgate cable brackets, so that'll eliminate 4 parts shown in the original drawing.
Next up, the nuts for the tailgate cable brackets, then the inside 1" square tubing which provides the attachment point for the inner and outer skins.
Based on the actual dimensions (instead of the from-memory dimensions I used when I did the design drawing while on my trip), I was able to weld the nuts for the hinges directly to the bottom angle; a separate bracket wasn't necessary as shown in the original drawing. I'll probably do the same for the tailgate cable brackets, so that'll eliminate 4 parts shown in the original drawing.
Next up, the nuts for the tailgate cable brackets, then the inside 1" square tubing which provides the attachment point for the inner and outer skins.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
The nuts for the tailgate cables are welded in place:
I used Jeep CJ factory brackets to locate the holes/nuts accurately, using the countersunk holes in the brackets to guide the positioning. Later I'll switch these out for the Compact Camping test brackets to compare them to the factory style.
Here's roughly how the Compact Camping latches will be positioned when the outer and inner skins are in place:
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I used Jeep CJ factory brackets to locate the holes/nuts accurately, using the countersunk holes in the brackets to guide the positioning. Later I'll switch these out for the Compact Camping test brackets to compare them to the factory style.
Here's roughly how the Compact Camping latches will be positioned when the outer and inner skins are in place:
jscherb
Expedition Leader
While I'm in a metal fabricating mode working on the tailgate... I've been thinking about how I might design an "over tub" rack for the M72.
I'd want the rack to be easily removable and stored, so I'd design it so it slipped into receivers on the frame for mounting, and it would be modular so it could be disassembled and stored flat against the wall of the garage.
I'd mount 1-1/4" receivers on the 4 corners of the frame. Could use 2" receivers, but I don't think something that large is necessary. I've pasted some receivers on these photos to show to locations, I'd put them on the side of the frame so they wouldn't interfere with the tongue or the front rack basket. I'd have to mount the tail lights and side marker lights slightly differently because the receivers would go where they're mounted now, but that's not a big deal.
Then I'd make 2 rack ends, something like this:
They could both be the same, unless I found some cargo reason why one should be different. They'd be made of 1 1/4" tubing that would fit in the receivers. Corner bracing would in included. Rather than using hitch pins to secure the racks in the receivers, I'd use the bolt-in method to make them rattle- and motion-free:
Then I'd make side bars for the rack, shown below in pink, that bolted in place to the main end racks. Again some corner bracing would be part of the design - building this out of 1-1/4 tubing, there would be some natural flex in the tubing, so bracing against that would be important. It's likely that more bracing than I show in these sketches would be required. I'd probably include some cross-bars across the top for bolting a tent, a rack basket or kayak mounts to.
The drawings above shouldn't be considered a design, they're just idea sketches as I'm thinking about how I might do a removable over-tub rack - these drawings are just me "thinking out loud with my drawing program"... comments on these ideas are welcome.
I'd want the rack to be easily removable and stored, so I'd design it so it slipped into receivers on the frame for mounting, and it would be modular so it could be disassembled and stored flat against the wall of the garage.
I'd mount 1-1/4" receivers on the 4 corners of the frame. Could use 2" receivers, but I don't think something that large is necessary. I've pasted some receivers on these photos to show to locations, I'd put them on the side of the frame so they wouldn't interfere with the tongue or the front rack basket. I'd have to mount the tail lights and side marker lights slightly differently because the receivers would go where they're mounted now, but that's not a big deal.
Then I'd make 2 rack ends, something like this:
They could both be the same, unless I found some cargo reason why one should be different. They'd be made of 1 1/4" tubing that would fit in the receivers. Corner bracing would in included. Rather than using hitch pins to secure the racks in the receivers, I'd use the bolt-in method to make them rattle- and motion-free:
Then I'd make side bars for the rack, shown below in pink, that bolted in place to the main end racks. Again some corner bracing would be part of the design - building this out of 1-1/4 tubing, there would be some natural flex in the tubing, so bracing against that would be important. It's likely that more bracing than I show in these sketches would be required. I'd probably include some cross-bars across the top for bolting a tent, a rack basket or kayak mounts to.
The drawings above shouldn't be considered a design, they're just idea sketches as I'm thinking about how I might do a removable over-tub rack - these drawings are just me "thinking out loud with my drawing program"... comments on these ideas are welcome.
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jscherb
Expedition Leader
I finished up the tailgate frame, it's now complete and ready for skinning. I've added 1" square tubing around the inside of the steel angle, plus two vertical ribs.
The two notches you see in the outer vertical square tubes are for the Compact Camping latches, that'll make it easier to drill the latch holes through the tailgate when the skins are on:
So the next thing to do is the sheet metal inner and outer skins. The sheet metal could be welded in place, but instead of welding I plan to use automotive structural adhesive. Structural adhesive is a lot faster and easier than welding sheet metal all the way around, and it'll be more than strong enough in this application - the 1"-wide frame and the ribs will provide ample surface area for bonding. And because I'll be using adhesive, I don't necessarily have to use steel sheet metal - I could use aluminum.
Because I've used scrap metal and cutoffs from the local fab shop, my total investment in this tailgate up to this point is $10. Tomorrow I'll drop by the local fab shop to see what's in the cutoff pile that I might use for the skins.
The two notches you see in the outer vertical square tubes are for the Compact Camping latches, that'll make it easier to drill the latch holes through the tailgate when the skins are on:
So the next thing to do is the sheet metal inner and outer skins. The sheet metal could be welded in place, but instead of welding I plan to use automotive structural adhesive. Structural adhesive is a lot faster and easier than welding sheet metal all the way around, and it'll be more than strong enough in this application - the 1"-wide frame and the ribs will provide ample surface area for bonding. And because I'll be using adhesive, I don't necessarily have to use steel sheet metal - I could use aluminum.
Because I've used scrap metal and cutoffs from the local fab shop, my total investment in this tailgate up to this point is $10. Tomorrow I'll drop by the local fab shop to see what's in the cutoff pile that I might use for the skins.
loren85022
Explorer
Could you spec or direct me to the cable and connector you use here?
I think the frame idea is great. Especially the easy on/off use of a set of receivers. One thought might be to include even smaller receiver ports up in the corners.
I added one last month to receive my "tactical towel/trash bag bar" in the wheel well. Slides in and out and causes the Camp Cook to smile.
I think the frame idea is great. Especially the easy on/off use of a set of receivers. One thought might be to include even smaller receiver ports up in the corners.
I added one last month to receive my "tactical towel/trash bag bar" in the wheel well. Slides in and out and causes the Camp Cook to smile.