First Fuso FM from RUF Inc

Robthebrit

Explorer
How tight are the lugs on a fuso that you can't get them off with a cheater?

I use an impact socket with a breaker bar and the handle from the jack as a cheater bar. The mogs lugs are 320 ft/lb (i think, maybe 390) and they come off. Although, after its been to the tires shop and they put the wheels on with an impact wrench they do take some getting off.

If you put the wheel on when its wet you might want to use thread lube or at least loosen and reset the nuts a few days later. If you get the smallest amount of corrosion inside the threads at 300+ ft/lb it can be an effort to release the nut.

Rob
 

DontPanic42

Adventurer
The lug nuts on a FUSO can be broken manually without a cheater but it isn't easy. I got a flat out on a ranch where I was working. I had the proper size impact socket and a 3/4 inch driver - no cheater. I held everything in place while my partner stomped on the driver handle. It took a while but we got the job done. Not bad for a couple of "ungracious and grumpy persons of extended years who are prone to flatulence" that are well over 60.
I do carry a cheater bar now. Anyone know if one of those force multipling gear jobbers or 12V impact wrenches would work in this scenario? I am getting too old to do this more than once or twice.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
DontPanic42 said:
Anyone know if one of those force multipling gear jobbers or 12V impact wrenches would work in this scenario? I am getting too old to do this more than once or twice.

I don't think the 12 volt impact I own has enough ooomph to do it. I have a torque multiplier, and although I haven't used it on the FG, I don't see why it wouldn't work. I bought it for the lug nuts on my BlueBird Wanderlodge. I'm not talking about the $40 multipliers on ebay used for automotive wheels. but a serious large multiplier typically used on heavy equipment.
 

Tom_D

Observer
Lug nuts

The wheels were rotated at a local shop a couple of years ago and I can only guess what they tightened them too. I was totally unable to loosen them.

I bought an special impact socket and the problem was easily solved. I use a very small (cheap) compressor and it seems really easy. I can't depend on any help if I have to change a wheel so the air solution seems easy. I have not tried a torque multiplier -- sounds like I should.

-- BTW Michel I DID read your web site and did know you were talking about the FM. Just thought I'd set the record straight for others who might not have first hand knowledge of Darrin's work and products.

cheers
Tom
 

Tom_D

Observer
Seats and Misc.

Kerry, the seats I took out were not suspension and are too thin and stiff. You don't want them.

I replaced them with Corbeau BAJA seats. No air or hydraulic dampers but soft enough to take the edge off. My wife and I were surprised at how comfortable they were on our last trip. Still not totally plush but small and they bolted right to Darrin's mounting frame.

12 impact drivers didn't work for me -- I own one, a Ridgid, and it didn't even budge the lug.

I don't know why the FUSO's wheels are so hard to get off. Maybe the size of the lug has something to do with it... I have never needed an impact wrench on my Unimog 416 or 406's wheels.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
What size impact wrench did you use? I had a flat on the trip home with my FG and one tire shop could not get the wheel off with a 1" impact wrench. Went to a tractor trailer tire shop that got it off with a 1" impact wrench but one of the inner budd bolts took a lot of hammering before it came loose.
A 1" impact wrench is a big tool to haul around
I tried my torque multiplier this morning but I only have on hand a 24" 1/2" breaker bar (the multiplier is 1" x3/4") I couldn't budge any lug nuts with it but I was afraid I was going to damage the breaker bar so didn't jump on it. I need to get my 3/4 breaker bar and give it a shot. I think the mulitplier is 4/1 so I was probably putting something like 350 lbs of torque on it.
 

FusoFG

Adventurer
kerry said:
I couldn't budge any lug nuts with it but I was afraid I was going to damage the breaker bar so didn't jump on it. I need to get my 3/4 breaker bar and give it a shot. I think the mulitplier is 4/1 so I was probably putting something like 350 lbs of torque on it.


The owners manual calls for 325 to 398 ft/lbs of torque. Who knows how tight the shop that mounted the wheels tightened them.

Remember the lug nuts on the drivers side are left hand threads and you have to turn them the opposite direction to loosen.

I ask the shop that mounts and rotates my tires to use the lowest torque setting on their 1" gun when tightening the nuts.

Then I use a 3/4" drive cleveland pneumatic air wrench with more torque in reverse than forward and a 240v household air compressor to loosen them at home.

It just barely does the job, especially on the left hand threads.

Then I tighten them by hand with my 5' cheater bar. I figure a 70 pound pull (about as much as I can muster) gives me 350 ft/lbs of torque.

And if I tightened them by hand, I can get them loose by hand.

I'd like to try a torque multiplier. Napa has one for several hundred dollars. Is that what you have?

Tom_D, if your on board air compressor and gun can do the job, what kind are they?
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Yes my torque multiplier is probably like the NAPA one. I bought it used on Ebay. I think it's rated for either 1000lbs or 2000lbs, I can't remember.
I have a 1" impact wrench so I'll probably drag the monster out and see if I can loosen my lug nuts and then do as you do and tighten them by hand. I just ordered a 40" 3/4" breaker bar from Northern Tool for $40. That and the torque multiplier should be able to do the job.

Yes, those left handed threads were wreaking havoc on the brain cells of the guy in the tire shop who couldn't get the lug nuts off.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Yes, those left handed threads were wreaking havoc on the brain cells of the guy in the tire shop who couldn't get the lug nuts off.

Kerry maybe the different colour should have given him a clue. Gold / rh thread and silver lefthand thread.

Tell you the truth I still have the occasional "Doh" moment. Only occasionally.

If I'm without an impact driver, I use the factory socket with a slightly longer bar and support the end of the socket. I carry a folding axle stand for this so you can put more weight on the bar safely. Then the axle stand goes under the truck during the wheel change for extra safety.

Regards John
 

FusoFG

Adventurer
whatcharterboat said:
Kerry maybe the different colour should have given him a clue. Gold / rh thread and silver lefthand thread.


Regards John


or maybe the big L or R stamped in the end of the studs.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Kerry

Should be. They normally have a very bold L or R stamped in the end of the studs and the left nuts are cadmium plated and the right are zinc plated.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
whatcharterboat said:
Should be. They normally have a very bold L or R stamped in the end of the studs and the left nuts are cadmium plated and the right are zinc plated.

Yep, you're right. When I look at it now, I can see the L and R on the Budd bolts. However, without looking at the R, I never would have thought that the L was an L.
Front studs don't have them but there is a small L and R raised on the lug nut.
My wheels have recently been painted so I can't see the color of the nuts.
 

Steve_in_29

New member
kerry said:
....Yes, those left handed threads were wreaking havoc on the brain cells of the guy in the tire shop who couldn't get the lug nuts off.
You might want to think about replacing the left hand studs the tire shop bozo worked on. Who knows what load he subjected them to as he probably used bigger and bigger impact guns (or at least torque settings) in his attempt to loosen them. There is the possibility that he stretched them and that they could unexpectedly fail.
 
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