FlashHole's M416 trailer Build

3d fj

Observer
I just welded up all the small holes and welded patches in the larger ones. Pick up a good copper spoon to lay behind the holes when you are welding. You can get one from harbor freight for about $10. Welding up the rust holes can be frustrating because you just burn the hole bigger until you get to some solid metal. Take your time and get on and off the trigger quite often.


.....While you are at it, you might as well start a build thread. The advice you get from others is very valuable. Plus, we all like to see pictures

Copper spoon on outside of tub or inside of tub? I would think on the outside of the tub to facilitate ease of finishing right?

As per my build thread. It will start very soon. I'm going to try and do my SOA tomorrow, take some measurements for my wheel adapters and maybe start welding up some small holes. YAY!
 

TheJosh

Explorer
Copper spoon on outside of tub or inside of tub? I would think on the outside of the tub to facilitate ease of finishing right?

As per my build thread. It will start very soon. I'm going to try and do my SOA tomorrow, take some measurements for my wheel adapters and maybe start welding up some small holes. YAY!

I prefer to have the copper spoon on the inside of the tub and grind down to a smooth finish
 

Flashole

Adventurer
I prefer to have the copper spoon on the inside of the tub and grind down to a smooth finish

That's how I did it too, but it makes for a lot of grinding. I had to fill a couple of bolt holes in the fenders and did it the opposite way and it seemed to work better with a lot less grinding.

3d fj......Try it with the spoon on the outside and see how that works for you. The problem I had was holding the spoon and welding at the same time. If you have a helper to hold the spoon, you can climb inside the tub to do your welding. Either way, you are going to have to do some grinding.

As for grinding discs......I've found that Diablo brand at Home Depot will absolutely chew through welds. Dewalt brand was the next best. Both are worth the extra money over the Harbor Freight discs. Harbor Freight cutting discs seem to work pretty well though.
 

3d fj

Observer
That's how I did it too, but it makes for a lot of grinding. I had to fill a couple of bolt holes in the fenders and did it the opposite way and it seemed to work better with a lot less grinding.

3d fj......Try it with the spoon on the outside and see how that works for you. The problem I had was holding the spoon and welding at the same time. If you have a helper to hold the spoon, you can climb inside the tub to do your welding. Either way, you are going to have to do some grinding.

As for grinding discs......I've found that Diablo brand at Home Depot will absolutely chew through welds. Dewalt brand was the next best. Both are worth the extra money over the Harbor Freight discs. Harbor Freight cutting discs seem to work pretty well though.

I tried welding today with both the spoon on the inside and outside. There are pluses and minuses to both. What i will say is I should have worn ear plugs when I started grinding. I had ringing in my ears for a good hour after i was done. I really didn't realize how many small holes there were. I was able to fill some of the larger holes, but the little pin holes.. man that will be laborious. Is there any way to use a paint or a bed liner of sorts to fill in these tiny little ones?

As far as the lid weight... Can you somehow get your hands on a luggage scale or a similar type of scale? When you have it hinged, it takes more effort to get it moving than to keep it moving. (My ears are still ringing. I dont' know if i'm making sense.)
 
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TheJosh

Explorer
I tried welding today with both the spoon on the inside and outside. There are pluses and minuses to both. What i will say is I should have worn ear plugs when I started grinding. I had ringing in my ears for a good hour after i was done. I really didn't realize how many small holes there were. I was able to fill some of the larger holes, but the little pin holes.. man that will be laborious. Is there any way to use a paint or a bed liner of sorts to fill in these tiny little ones?

As far as the lid weight... Can you somehow get your hands on a luggage scale or a similar type of scale? When you have it hinged, it takes more effort to get it moving than to keep it moving. (My ears are still ringing. I dont' know if i'm making sense.)

I have a couple things to add


For consumables check out Roark supply online. Great prices and great quality cut off disc and flapper disc. I paid $99 for 35 flap disc (usually $8 at a hardware store) and 15 cut off wheels (normally $3 at said store) and they are really great and last a long time.


So for filling small holes I used por15 and after the first coat I used woven fiberglass cloth over the holes and painted then another layer then painted and the one more cycle and now I have a solid patch to cover my pin holes and of you haven't used por15 id recommend it. Its excellent rust inhibitor paint. I've been using it for 15 years and I'm only 30 :)
 

Flashole

Adventurer
I tried welding today with both the spoon on the inside and outside. There are pluses and minuses to both. What i will say is I should have worn ear plugs when I started grinding. I had ringing in my ears for a good hour after i was done. I really didn't realize how many small holes there were. I was able to fill some of the larger holes, but the little pin holes.. man that will be laborious. Is there any way to use a paint or a bed liner of sorts to fill in these tiny little ones?

As far as the lid weight... Can you somehow get your hands on a luggage scale or a similar type of scale? When you have it hinged, it takes more effort to get it moving than to keep it moving. (My ears are still ringing. I dont' know if i'm making sense.)

Yes, I wear ear muffs when I grind. My ears ring anyway from my other hobby......Shooting guns.

As for filling small holes, I see 3 ways of doing it. Cutting out larger areas and welding in patch panels. Welding each hole up individually. Or, filling them with filler. There's noting wrong with using filler, you just can't grind both sides smooth, or there will be nothing for the filler to stick to and it won't last. That's the problem with M416s. They are single walled and anything you do to the outside of the trailer also affects the inside of the trailer.

How many holes are we talking about here? Where are the holes? Can you post up some pics, or do you have a thread going somewhere?
 

Flashole

Adventurer
I'd go with a simply Deezee type contractor rack. Bolts straight on. Around $230. People spent a ton of cash on those silver colored set ups
http://www.etrailer.com/Ladder-Racks/DeeZee/DZ95055.html
Then paint to match.

Those seem functional enough, but I could probably just make something like that for much cheaper. I certainly haven't ruled that out. A system like the Thule is appealing because it's track system is very versatile. Unfortunately, it's also very costly. I kind of like the basket designs. Sure wish I had a pipe bender.
 

Flashole

Adventurer
Update

I posted this in Balu4k's thread because he was asking about the sturdiness of my lid design. Since I wasn't 100% sure, I decided to go out and stand on it. I weigh 225 lbs and the lid held my weight no problem. I was more worried about the plastic saw horses giving way than I was the lid.


The sheet metal didn't all meet up perfectly at all the corners, so I had to fill some decent size gaps with the welder. Since I'm not the best welder on the planet, the corners weren't exactly perfect after grinding. I used some light weight polyester body filler to fill the grinding marks and to even out all the edges.


It's hard to see, but after sanding it off, all the edges look nice and even and have a nice smooth feel to them.



The guy at the paint supply store talked me into trying Dolphin Glaze.

I was skeptical at first because it comes in a bag like Canadian milk:snorkel:. I was worried that it would be to runny to spread, but I have to say, this stuff is pretty awesome. I highly recommend it, or something like it. Once you are done done making the panel straight with the body filler, you just apply a thin layer of this to fill the deep sand scratches and sand it off with a finer grit paper. You are left with a very smooth surface that's ready for primer.

Since that is done, it was time to do something with the underside. I originally had planned on having the underside powder coated, but the guy I use is backed up about 5 weeks, and I don't want to wait that long. After much thought, I ended up just using Rustoleum primer and their aluminum colored paint. I went with that color for 2 reasons. 1.)The trailer and outside of the lid will be painted silver to match my jeep. This aluminum color is a brighter silver, but it follows the same theme. 2.)I will eventually install some sort of led cargo lights and I wanted something that would reflect light as opposed to absorb it. Otherwise, I probably would have just painted it black to match the bed-liner on the inside of the tub.

For a brush on finish, I think it looks pretty good. Tomorrow, I will flip the lid over and prime the top so that it's ready for paint. ETA...In this picture, you can see where the frame warped a little and the sheet metal doesn't lay down quite flat. So irritating!!


Oh yeah, my weather stripping came from Uni-Grip. That means that I finally need to make a decision on how to attach the hinges to the lid. To weld them on, or to bolt them on, that is the question. Frankly, the thought of drilling 12 holes through those 1/4 inch steel hinges and then 12 holes through the structure of the lid is leaving me less than enthused about the bolt on route. Welding them on would save me a bunch of time, not to mention the expense of the hardware. I just can't decide. I'll keep thinking on it I guess:coffee:
 
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Flashole

Adventurer
Update

Got the lid primed and sitting on the trailer.


I think it looks a little to bulky for the trailer, but I wanted it to be tall for the extra cargo space. A fair trade off I suppose.




 

3d fj

Observer
That looks really nice! Really really nice.

I was wondering though. After seeing the picture of you standing on the lid, I was wondering... Have you considered welding in a vertical square tube at the middle of the lid from the cross bars to the top? Then again, hmmm... how often would you have weight in the middle of the lid? eh... forget it.

What does the top of the tailgate section/bottom of the lid look like? (Now you have me thinking about making a tailgate.)
 

Flashole

Adventurer
That looks really nice! Really really nice.

I was wondering though. After seeing the picture of you standing on the lid, I was wondering... Have you considered welding in a vertical square tube at the middle of the lid from the cross bars to the top? Then again, hmmm... how often would you have weight in the middle of the lid? eh... forget it.

What does the top of the tailgate section/bottom of the lid look like? (Now you have me thinking about making a tailgate.)

Not sure I understand your question, but I believe there are some photos of the tailgate earlier in the thread.
 

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