Just a thought, but if DiploStrat doesn't chime in here, you might want to check in with him.
He has a lot of experience with overlanding in an old Blazer.
He has a lot of experience with overlanding in an old Blazer.
For exploration, not necessarily expedition
- Thread starter Joanne
- Start date
nbleak21
Adventurer
I've always been fond of vintage blazers and broncos... Looks like you're in for a great build. The pic of that second blazer made my heart warm. It is beautiful! I as well have gone through your build of the grasshopper, and it's inspired me to build one... LATER than sooner... (when I first started looking into teardrops, I was thinking I could knock one out in a month or so, but the more and more research I did, made me find that the quality that I want to envelop in mine will take a little more time!)
Good luck on the Build! I'm hoping someday my wife and I will be able to begin building ourselves a dedicated rig for the family, and we'll most likely be going vintage as well!
Good luck on the Build! I'm hoping someday my wife and I will be able to begin building ourselves a dedicated rig for the family, and we'll most likely be going vintage as well!
1976K5Chalet
Observer
I actually have both...a 76 Chalet and a FWC i just aquired for my 79 K5.
I like the FWC more as it is lighter being a bolt on made of aluminum vrs. the heavy fiberglass slide in chalet. I have had years of experience driving my chalet all over the place and so far i am rather impressed how the truck feels with the FWC attached...
DW
I like the FWC more as it is lighter being a bolt on made of aluminum vrs. the heavy fiberglass slide in chalet. I have had years of experience driving my chalet all over the place and so far i am rather impressed how the truck feels with the FWC attached...
DW
Joanne
Adventurer
Thank you for the kind words. The Desert Dawg has gotten a ton of use since I built it and I love camping in it! I look forward to hearing about your build.
Joanne
Joanne
Adventurer
Ok,
Here are some "baseline" photos to give you a feel for the condition of the truck. There is a LONG way to go but I'm starting to put together a project plan. Now all I need is a lot of money. Since I plan to keep it forever and pass it along to one of my children, I'm not going to skimp on the build. I'll save up my $ and do the job right rather than rush through for the sake of getting done. I'm thinking pretty much everything is going to get rebuilt or replaced.
So I think I have a good rig to start with. It's going to be a big project, but one I'm going to enjoy the results of.
Joanne
Here are some "baseline" photos to give you a feel for the condition of the truck. There is a LONG way to go but I'm starting to put together a project plan. Now all I need is a lot of money. Since I plan to keep it forever and pass it along to one of my children, I'm not going to skimp on the build. I'll save up my $ and do the job right rather than rush through for the sake of getting done. I'm thinking pretty much everything is going to get rebuilt or replaced.
So I think I have a good rig to start with. It's going to be a big project, but one I'm going to enjoy the results of.
Joanne
Yeah any diesel would be cool, 6.2/6.5/5.9...
Joanne
Adventurer
A diesel powered 1st gen would be pretty neat. That said, I think I'll stick with the engine I have and just get it freshened up. I would like to keep it relatively close to stock without major modifications.
Maybe we can encourage one of the members to buy a 1st gen and do the diesel conversion.
Joanne
Maybe we can encourage one of the members to buy a 1st gen and do the diesel conversion.
Joanne
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Engine cost aside, I don't see a lot that would be expensive. An auto trans, if so equipped, would need re-programming and a different governor. The fuel system would need a return line, but a TBI needs one as well. Perhaps a radiator upgrade, but all of that should be transportable from a one ton.
I can see a rebuilt 6.2 running into some money, but I'd be more interested in finding a running 6.5td donor truck and transplanting it entire drive train. Certainly that would cost more than a JY TBI swap, but I'd guess still under 3k for the power train.
If I were allowed the 6.5td option in my FJ60's IP engine swap I'd have been all over it.
I can see a rebuilt 6.2 running into some money, but I'd be more interested in finding a running 6.5td donor truck and transplanting it entire drive train. Certainly that would cost more than a JY TBI swap, but I'd guess still under 3k for the power train.
If I were allowed the 6.5td option in my FJ60's IP engine swap I'd have been all over it.
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matt s
Explorer
ntsqd (sorry I don't know your name) from reading other posts from you in the past I know you know your stuff. This is what I found in regards to re-powering the first gen blazers
The cost is more due to frame issues. The first gens have a different frame (narrower and different wheel base from the later models. There are issues with the entire driveline fitting. It can be done, and has been done. You could bolt up the 6.2 to a stock th350, but then you need to regear, re-fuel etc. Also many people wonder if the th350 (not to mention the rest of the stock driveline D44 and 12bolt rear) is up to the torque of the diesel so now your talking th400 or other tranny swap.
If you go with a 700r4 there are sorts of things you have to overcome. It can be done. However it's one of those, you changed X so now you change Y and then now you need one of Z kind of problems.
A manual presents it's own challenges if not originally equipped as a stick. Not huge obstacles but there is going to be some cutting and fitting for sure.
I do think you may be right about a 3K price tag. TBI is running about half that for a kit.
Taking the entire driveline is a good idea. You will still have some custom fabbing to make it fit, but a least all the parts can handle the load. Next comes suspension issues for the new heaver axles, and perhaps some pinion angle challenges.
Again all can be done, but at what point is it too much trouble?
Maybe I am just being a pessimist! Ha.
The cost is more due to frame issues. The first gens have a different frame (narrower and different wheel base from the later models. There are issues with the entire driveline fitting. It can be done, and has been done. You could bolt up the 6.2 to a stock th350, but then you need to regear, re-fuel etc. Also many people wonder if the th350 (not to mention the rest of the stock driveline D44 and 12bolt rear) is up to the torque of the diesel so now your talking th400 or other tranny swap.
If you go with a 700r4 there are sorts of things you have to overcome. It can be done. However it's one of those, you changed X so now you change Y and then now you need one of Z kind of problems.
A manual presents it's own challenges if not originally equipped as a stick. Not huge obstacles but there is going to be some cutting and fitting for sure.
I do think you may be right about a 3K price tag. TBI is running about half that for a kit.
Taking the entire driveline is a good idea. You will still have some custom fabbing to make it fit, but a least all the parts can handle the load. Next comes suspension issues for the new heaver axles, and perhaps some pinion angle challenges.
Again all can be done, but at what point is it too much trouble?
Maybe I am just being a pessimist! Ha.
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ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
Thank you.
One last diesel hijack, and then I'll rest.
[hijack]
As much as I like the 700 (using one dictated the rest of my FJ's engine swap choices) I wouldn't use one behind a 6.2 or a 6.5. Either a 400 as came behind the 6.2's or the 4L80 (essentially a 400 with OD) that came behind the 6.5td's if OD is desired. About the only fault in a 400, and it is a minor one, is the fairly short first gear ratio. I'd call going to a 241 or 241HD (if there's a RH drop version) a mandatory choice with a TH400.
6.2's and 6.5's are reported to use the same mounting holes on the frame as do the SBC/BBC's. So with a narrower frame the issue would be solely the engine mounts themselves. I'd assume, and we all know what that means....
If such a swap were highly desired and the easiest option is to make the mounts, then they can be made from new rubber spring eye bushings sourced from places like Steele Rubber and Metro Molded Parts. Something that looks like these: http://www.autofab.com/DSC00002jpg.JPG I wouldn't use those because their inserts are urethane and the NVH transmitted would be likely be very objectionable.
I have to wonder about the 6.2's. They do not have all that great of a reputation here in the Sates, yet they are at least somewhat desired for FJ60 engine swaps in OZ. That makes me wonder if the OZ heads and blocks are better castings. If so, perhaps that US company offering new, improved block and head castings is getting them from OZ?[/hijack]
For a TBI conversion I would look into using an OE harness. My dad is in-process on converting the '73 2WD Short-Narrow Bed that he bought from my grandad's estate. There is a lot of info out there on these systems. Comes down to which you have more of, time or money. The harness isn't all that complicated, what it might be tied into may be. Separating it out might take time.
About the only thing lost in using a TBI Throttle Body adapter on a carb intake vs. a TBI dedicated manifold is the coolant jacket under the plenum. In warmer climes I wouldn't sweat that. In colder climes I wouldn't consider anything lacking it.
I recognize that an in-tank TBI pump uses the fuel to keep itself cool and to reduce it's noise. I still wouldn't go that way. Frame mounted F-250 pump for me, please.
Thom
One last diesel hijack, and then I'll rest.
[hijack]
As much as I like the 700 (using one dictated the rest of my FJ's engine swap choices) I wouldn't use one behind a 6.2 or a 6.5. Either a 400 as came behind the 6.2's or the 4L80 (essentially a 400 with OD) that came behind the 6.5td's if OD is desired. About the only fault in a 400, and it is a minor one, is the fairly short first gear ratio. I'd call going to a 241 or 241HD (if there's a RH drop version) a mandatory choice with a TH400.
6.2's and 6.5's are reported to use the same mounting holes on the frame as do the SBC/BBC's. So with a narrower frame the issue would be solely the engine mounts themselves. I'd assume, and we all know what that means....
If such a swap were highly desired and the easiest option is to make the mounts, then they can be made from new rubber spring eye bushings sourced from places like Steele Rubber and Metro Molded Parts. Something that looks like these: http://www.autofab.com/DSC00002jpg.JPG I wouldn't use those because their inserts are urethane and the NVH transmitted would be likely be very objectionable.
I have to wonder about the 6.2's. They do not have all that great of a reputation here in the Sates, yet they are at least somewhat desired for FJ60 engine swaps in OZ. That makes me wonder if the OZ heads and blocks are better castings. If so, perhaps that US company offering new, improved block and head castings is getting them from OZ?[/hijack]
For a TBI conversion I would look into using an OE harness. My dad is in-process on converting the '73 2WD Short-Narrow Bed that he bought from my grandad's estate. There is a lot of info out there on these systems. Comes down to which you have more of, time or money. The harness isn't all that complicated, what it might be tied into may be. Separating it out might take time.
About the only thing lost in using a TBI Throttle Body adapter on a carb intake vs. a TBI dedicated manifold is the coolant jacket under the plenum. In warmer climes I wouldn't sweat that. In colder climes I wouldn't consider anything lacking it.
I recognize that an in-tank TBI pump uses the fuel to keep itself cool and to reduce it's noise. I still wouldn't go that way. Frame mounted F-250 pump for me, please.
Thom