Ford OBS 7.3 manual trans or 1998-2003 manual trans 4x4 for overlanding? F250 or F350
- Thread starter jonb96150
- Start date
AFBronco235
Crew Chief
Dang it. Beat me to it. lol.
People always seem to associate old with worn out and underpowered. If only they knew how to use a little elbow grease to fix some very minor issues and you'll get something that will out last anything new on the market.
Can't wait to see it on the Adult Rig thread.
Today I can magically attach pix.
Small tear in drivers seat is only rip in interior.
Small areas of flaking chrome on front bumper are the biggest exterior flaws.
Sorry for all the reflections, I'm a crappy photog.
Small tear in drivers seat is only rip in interior.
Small areas of flaking chrome on front bumper are the biggest exterior flaws.
Sorry for all the reflections, I'm a crappy photog.
Attachments
Thanks. It does not look as good now.
On the way to get a weight cert. of unladen weight (required in California) I ran over an unopened quart of motor oil (like to find that s.o.b.) which absolutely exploded and showered the entire truck in motor oil. $10.00 at one armed bandit self serve car wash didn't even dent it. Came home and a super strong ratio of Dawn soap slightly removed some.
Goo gone did no better. Finally using a dollar store bottle of windex with vinegar and many old bath towels got it off.
Except for the plastic trim around the mirrors and the trim around the body panels. I now have a polka dot patten on most of the plastic trim where the oil was absorbed. Grrh!
So I have spent 3 hours on this today when I am supposed to be packing for Moab and leaving tomorrow.
Whew, after that rant I feel better, kind of lol! At least it wasn't a can of brake fluid or I would be re-painting a lot sooner than budgeted!
On the way to get a weight cert. of unladen weight (required in California) I ran over an unopened quart of motor oil (like to find that s.o.b.) which absolutely exploded and showered the entire truck in motor oil. $10.00 at one armed bandit self serve car wash didn't even dent it. Came home and a super strong ratio of Dawn soap slightly removed some.
Goo gone did no better. Finally using a dollar store bottle of windex with vinegar and many old bath towels got it off.
Except for the plastic trim around the mirrors and the trim around the body panels. I now have a polka dot patten on most of the plastic trim where the oil was absorbed. Grrh!
So I have spent 3 hours on this today when I am supposed to be packing for Moab and leaving tomorrow.
Whew, after that rant I feel better, kind of lol! At least it wasn't a can of brake fluid or I would be re-painting a lot sooner than budgeted!
underdrive
jackwagon
At least with some of it. Are you sure the factory cable to the solenoid on the fender is indeed 1/0? Everything I've see has barely been adequate for the factory electrical equipment... Even if it was 1/0, how many heavy-draw connectors can you really stack on that stud before you run out of space? For example we got two winches and a big alternator all using 1/0 cables, the power inverter is also hooked up on that side of the truck, and the glowplugs have their own cable that is also pretty thick - overall thickness of the connectors is way past what the solenoid can accommodate, even if all the factory junk was removed from it. Mind you there has been at least one occasion where we used both winches at the same time - admittedly not at full load, but still, their combined power draw can equal that of the starter, and you know what size of cable that thing takes
And how is the marine terminal unreliable anyways? Everything medium-duty and larger used bolt-on connections like that (your standard issue big truck battery, Group 31, usually has 3/8" threaded studs), they don't seem to have much problems and their batteries are usually in a much more corrosion-friendly location. Clean your connections, tighten them properly, spray them with that protective goop (that actually works), and all will be well. Oh, and of course use the proper marine terminals, size does matter
At least with some of it. Are you sure the factory cable to the solenoid on the fender is indeed 1/0? Everything I've see has barely been adequate for the factory electrical equipment... Even if it was 1/0, how many heavy-draw connectors can you really stack on that stud before you run out of space? For example we got two winches and a big alternator all using 1/0 cables, the power inverter is also hooked up on that side of the truck, and the glowplugs have their own cable that is also pretty thick - overall thickness of the connectors is way past what the solenoid can accommodate, even if all the factory junk was removed from it. Mind you there has been at least one occasion where we used both winches at the same time - admittedly not at full load, but still, their combined power draw can equal that of the starter, and you know what size of cable that thing takes
And how is the marine terminal unreliable anyways? Everything medium-duty and larger used bolt-on connections like that (your standard issue big truck battery, Group 31, usually has 3/8" threaded studs), they don't seem to have much problems and their batteries are usually in a much more corrosion-friendly location. Clean your connections, tighten them properly, spray them with that protective goop (that actually works), and all will be well. Oh, and of course use the proper marine terminals, size does matter
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Any argument on that subject at this point, like your post, would be nothing but a moot hijack of jonb96150's thread. Want to argue about it, start another thread and PM me a link.
underdrive
jackwagon
jonb96150, nice truck!
That is a Warn Enforcer bumper up front, arguably the most elegant and civilized winch bumper available for OBS trucks - they are no longer in production IIRC, and some people will pay BIG money for them especially if in good condition. If you don't need a full-face protection that can take on stray cows, I suggest that you keep it, I'm yet to see any current aftermarket bumper that looks half as good. Have you identified what winch is behind it? IIRC the center top section of the bumper should open to give you access to the winch controls (free-spooling clutch handle mostly), you should be able to get a good view of the winch's ID tag then too.
What gears in the axles? We always tow in 5th as long as the engine can make enough power for that, and we have 3.55s in a truck that's about a full ton heavier than yours - if you have 4.10 axles there's little reason to stay in 4th and burn up fuel excessively, if you can stay around 2000 RPMs and your EGTs are not hovering around 1100 just run her in OD. Also Korben is absolutely right that the force is strong with this one, it's older Dodges that eat 5th for breakfast lunch and dinner, Fords rarely had that problem - if anything reverse was more of a problem with them cause the gear ratio is pretty high and unless you drop the t-case in low range (obviously impossible in case of 2wd trucks) you're riding the clutch quite a bit to keep the overall speed in check.
Regarding the lack of power seat, trucks that old never got that option, the front-back sliders were always manual. The only power option for the seats was the lumbar support, which is what that switch on the side is.
That is a Warn Enforcer bumper up front, arguably the most elegant and civilized winch bumper available for OBS trucks - they are no longer in production IIRC, and some people will pay BIG money for them especially if in good condition. If you don't need a full-face protection that can take on stray cows, I suggest that you keep it, I'm yet to see any current aftermarket bumper that looks half as good. Have you identified what winch is behind it? IIRC the center top section of the bumper should open to give you access to the winch controls (free-spooling clutch handle mostly), you should be able to get a good view of the winch's ID tag then too.
What gears in the axles? We always tow in 5th as long as the engine can make enough power for that, and we have 3.55s in a truck that's about a full ton heavier than yours - if you have 4.10 axles there's little reason to stay in 4th and burn up fuel excessively, if you can stay around 2000 RPMs and your EGTs are not hovering around 1100 just run her in OD. Also Korben is absolutely right that the force is strong with this one, it's older Dodges that eat 5th for breakfast lunch and dinner, Fords rarely had that problem - if anything reverse was more of a problem with them cause the gear ratio is pretty high and unless you drop the t-case in low range (obviously impossible in case of 2wd trucks) you're riding the clutch quite a bit to keep the overall speed in check.
Regarding the lack of power seat, trucks that old never got that option, the front-back sliders were always manual. The only power option for the seats was the lumbar support, which is what that switch on the side is.
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underdrive
jackwagon
Eh, maybe, maybe not. He has a winch. Would be interesting to see how that is wired... (which is pretty much the only reason I brought it up again anyways)
BTW what is up with you people automatically jumping to "arguing"? It's a civilized discussion till someone starts typing in all caps. Then it's arguing. I don't argue.
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Warn m10000 that didn't work until I took all the battery connections off, cleaned them, sprayed them. But I was checking the winch solenoids first and that bumper does not make that any easier lol. I've had the same bumper on an 89 f250 gasser so I know about the removable center section. Winch is hooked to just one battery, but will be so seldom used I'm not going to worry about it. I've had 24V rigs and always had to be wary of loading just one battery but that was for constant loads.
3:55 ratio. Good to know that 5th is strong.
Changed the serp belt and it reminded me that if one of the items being turned freezes up you are hosed. Any experience with emergency belts that could be shortened in the field to just run the essentials? Bypassing whatever froze up?
Thanks again for all the good tips!
3:55 ratio. Good to know that 5th is strong.
Changed the serp belt and it reminded me that if one of the items being turned freezes up you are hosed. Any experience with emergency belts that could be shortened in the field to just run the essentials? Bypassing whatever froze up?
Thanks again for all the good tips!
Winch can't be connected to just one battery, the batteries are constantly connected to each other, connecting to one connects to both.
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Ya know this rig isn't 24V right, I've run mine on one battery often.
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Don't have a lot of off hand knowledge with that serpentine system, mine are V-belt. Can't be that hard to work out though, keep your old one cut it and use it to measure different situations.
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Ya know this rig isn't 24V right, I've run mine on one battery often.
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Don't have a lot of off hand knowledge with that serpentine system, mine are V-belt. Can't be that hard to work out though, keep your old one cut it and use it to measure different situations.
underdrive
jackwagon
Correct, two batteries in parallel, winch is only hooked up to one but it's still pulling from both at the same time - just like the glowplugs and the starter, so as long as winch cables are nice and fat you're good there.
With 3.55s you will be spending some time in 4th if hooked up to a big trailer or loaded down heavy. That is not a bad thing, as Korben said 4th being direct drive makes the least amount of heat, not that heat buildup is a major issue with these units, but still the less of it the better.
I'll get back to you on the serpentine belt later tonight, got one of those around here but it's been a while since I looked under the hood, lol.
With 3.55s you will be spending some time in 4th if hooked up to a big trailer or loaded down heavy. That is not a bad thing, as Korben said 4th being direct drive makes the least amount of heat, not that heat buildup is a major issue with these units, but still the less of it the better.
I'll get back to you on the serpentine belt later tonight, got one of those around here but it's been a while since I looked under the hood, lol.
I knew it was 12V just hadn't worked out in my mind the winch connections. That is so much easier than 24V which complicates any 12V things you want to add. 24V winches are really nice though. 1/2 the amperage. Is it possible to run a 24V item by connecting to pos on one battery and neg on the other without anything else seeing 24V? I've never had a dual battery 12V rig.
Re: serp belt, a buddy told me yesterday to carry an a/c idler puller replacement that I could get off a non a/c truck. So if compressor freezes I could replace it with an idler pulley. Since I have had a compressor completely lock up before and not even freewheel that is an option. He also said to carry a spare alternator, which is kind of a heavy part to carry but also an option. I have also had an alternator smoke on me before. On Moab Rim trail which is hairy enough without having smoke billowing out of the hood haha. Just cut the V belt off and limped back on battery alone.
Re: serp belt, a buddy told me yesterday to carry an a/c idler puller replacement that I could get off a non a/c truck. So if compressor freezes I could replace it with an idler pulley. Since I have had a compressor completely lock up before and not even freewheel that is an option. He also said to carry a spare alternator, which is kind of a heavy part to carry but also an option. I have also had an alternator smoke on me before. On Moab Rim trail which is hairy enough without having smoke billowing out of the hood haha. Just cut the V belt off and limped back on battery alone.
Yeah I picked up 3 HMMWV winches cheap a little while back(24V M12000), want to run them 24V assuming I get them working, they need a little TLC. My intention is to add an isolated ground 12V alternator and a 3rd battery. Want to do it this way in part cause the 3rd bat and an isolated ground 12v alt could quickly be used as backup 12V with the change of just a couple connections.
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No, connecting to the pos on one battery and the negative on the other is still 12V, there's no good way to get 24V out of the rig without changing how the batteries are connected or adding another, and no way to charge 24V without another alternator. Ya really just need to think of your batteries as one large 12V battery that's oddly shaped.
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The AC idler is a good idea, but more so then a spare alternator would be a spare vacuum pump. The vacuum pumps aren't known to fail, but they are more prone to failure in a way that would seize then an alternator. Even more important however is that stock your truck is very hard to stop and not safe to drive without the vacuum pump, however, it will run a long time without a working alternator. With accessories/lights off and engine already running the amp draw and voltage needs of your truck are VERY low. As long as there is 9V at the fuel shut off solenoid and fuel in the tank it will keep going, this is one of the fantastic attributes of having a manual trans and IDI. It could easily be assured that if you had full tanks when the alternator quit charging and you didn't shut it off, you could drive until you ran out of fuel. I'd bet that if you got a few minutes of charging and a jump start at each filling station it would just keep going. Or heck in an emergency I'd even drain the oils and use it as fuel to go a few more miles, first the ATF from the tranny, then the engine oil. The engine will run well on ATF and if warm well enough on pure engine oil, and I've heard quite a few believable stories of them going some time with no oil in the pan.
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No, connecting to the pos on one battery and the negative on the other is still 12V, there's no good way to get 24V out of the rig without changing how the batteries are connected or adding another, and no way to charge 24V without another alternator. Ya really just need to think of your batteries as one large 12V battery that's oddly shaped.
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The AC idler is a good idea, but more so then a spare alternator would be a spare vacuum pump. The vacuum pumps aren't known to fail, but they are more prone to failure in a way that would seize then an alternator. Even more important however is that stock your truck is very hard to stop and not safe to drive without the vacuum pump, however, it will run a long time without a working alternator. With accessories/lights off and engine already running the amp draw and voltage needs of your truck are VERY low. As long as there is 9V at the fuel shut off solenoid and fuel in the tank it will keep going, this is one of the fantastic attributes of having a manual trans and IDI. It could easily be assured that if you had full tanks when the alternator quit charging and you didn't shut it off, you could drive until you ran out of fuel. I'd bet that if you got a few minutes of charging and a jump start at each filling station it would just keep going. Or heck in an emergency I'd even drain the oils and use it as fuel to go a few more miles, first the ATF from the tranny, then the engine oil. The engine will run well on ATF and if warm well enough on pure engine oil, and I've heard quite a few believable stories of them going some time with no oil in the pan.
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Thinking of the batteries as one big one is a good analogy. I have had 4 24V rigs so I confuse easily!
Spare alt is more about a working pulley at that spot than about needing the juice. Yeah I figure the truck could go a long way on just battery juice. Didn't know you could use ATF for fuel! Kinda funny the trans uses that instead of gear oil.
Most folks are probably content with just a spare belt, but since I have had two instances that would have disabled a serpentine belted rig I'm paranoid about it. One of my options is swapping over to v-belts, although I don't know how involved that would be.
Looks like some quality time at a junk yard is in store. Nearest one is an hour away though.
Spare alt is more about a working pulley at that spot than about needing the juice. Yeah I figure the truck could go a long way on just battery juice. Didn't know you could use ATF for fuel! Kinda funny the trans uses that instead of gear oil.
Most folks are probably content with just a spare belt, but since I have had two instances that would have disabled a serpentine belted rig I'm paranoid about it. One of my options is swapping over to v-belts, although I don't know how involved that would be.
Looks like some quality time at a junk yard is in store. Nearest one is an hour away though.