FOX Steering Stabilizer kit for E_Series (WTD)

[ert01]

This might be a little off topic but regarding toe-in... Why is it referenced as a measurement of distance and also not an angle?

Seems to me like a 1/8" toe-in with 28" tires is a drastically different angle than 1/8" toe-in on 35's or 37's. Wouldn't a more accurate reference be something like "2deg in" as that way the tire size wouldn't affect it?

 

[Jsweezy]

AAANNNNDDD just to further derail this thread. While your getting your alignment done at the location in Torrance that REDOVAL recommended, be sure to hop on over to "Eat at Rudy's" in downtown Torrance for some amazing breakfast! Seriously.

 

[REDOVAL]

AAANNNNDDD just to further derail this thread. While your getting your alignment done at the location in Torrance that REDOVAL recommended, be sure to hop on over to "Eat at Rudy's" in downtown Torrance for some amazing breakfast! Seriously.

This guy knows what's up! Worth the trip for out of towners!

Scott

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

This might be a little off topic but regarding toe-in... Why is it referenced as a measurement of distance and also not an angle?

Seems to me like a 1/8" toe-in with 28" tires is a drastically different angle than 1/8" toe-in on 35's or 37's. Wouldn't a more accurate reference be something like "2deg in" as that way the tire size wouldn't affect it?

It is often listed in degrees.

If you have 28" tires, and you set the tow in at 0.125 degrees in for each tire, your total tow in measured in inches is ~0.122 (aprox. 1/8" tow in).
With a 35 inch tire at the same 0.125 degree setting will have total tow in of ~0.153 inches - not a lot more. A 37 inch tire would be ~0.161.

So specifying 0.125 degrees or 0.125 inches total tow is not that big a difference or significant.

In today's age of computer and laser measurements, people get too caught up in fractions of fractions of an inch - it really does not matter. Especially in the dynamic movements of suspension systems and big heavy tires.

Don't think that the tolerances are close - concentrate on how it drives and wears.

 

[Jsweezy]

This guy knows what's up! Worth the trip for out of towners!

Scott

I have seriously contemplated just purchasing a day flight to LA and back just so I could have their Tri Tip Steak and Eggs one more time...

 

[jblaze5779]

ok this is my data sheet for my latest alignment.

 

[B350]

It seems clear that I do need more caster to achieve the nice driving characteristics Scott/Redoval described. I have to say that while getting the steering dialed in is a minor annoyance and pia, this is more related to not having alignment shops here in Minneapolis that are experienced with aftermarket off road suspension. The average shop sees a cargo van and treats it as a work vehicle no one gives a rat's _ss about.
Just to be clear, I am happy with the quality of the WTD lift and the way it performs. No issues there at all. Jeremy from WTD actually called me this morning to see how he could help and offered to send another set of i-beams bent with more caster. This follow up is much appreciated. Thank you. And thanks to everyone else for their input as well.

@BajaSportsmobile - I have the Fox 2.0 shocks front and back as supplied in the WTD kit.

 

[B350]

A local wheel alignment shop now recommended a drop pitman arm too. None of you guys mentioned using a drop pitman arm and and still got the desired driving characteristics even with the 6" lift. Does this recommendation make sense? The reasoning is to get the drag link and inner tie rod more parallel like they were at stock ride height which will affect the steering characteristics.
The alignment guys also warned of increased stress on the ball joints with 6+ degrees of caster decreasing the life of the ball joints. Do you guys agree or is this not really the case? Again, I'm in MN where no one has a lifted van. As soon as the typical mechanic looks at it they comment that the lifted van will never drive like it did stock. After all your feedback I nicely tell them that it is absolutely possible...

 

[Grngiant]

A local wheel alignment shop now recommended a drop pitman arm too. None of you guys mentioned using a drop pitman arm and and still got the desired driving characteristics even with the 6" lift. Does this recommendation make sense? The reasoning is to get the drag link and inner tie rod more parallel like they were at stock ride height which will affect the steering characteristics.
The alignment guys also warned of increased stress on the ball joints with 6+ degrees of caster decreasing the life of the ball joints. Do you guys agree or is this not really the case? Again, I'm in MN where no one has a lifted van. As soon as the typical mechanic looks at it they comment that the lifted van will never drive like it did stock. After all your feedback I nicely tell them that it is absolutely possible...

No need for a dropped pitman arm . You didn't change any of the factory pivot points. A dropped arm will increase bump steer in this setup.
The mechanic was right about the fact that your van won't drive like a stock van, it handles bumps much better than stock and in my opinion gives a softer ride. Without the factory sway bar in place, there is a "looser" feel to the front end due to the fact that each side is working totally independent of the other, which to me is not bad, just different.
Sounds like your mechanics are way over thinking this. I brought my van to a Midas shop and just asked for an alignment. I told them nothing about my mods. They put it on the rack, came back in 15min with the computer printout to show me the initial measurements before they did anything. No drama, no fuss about it being lifted.

 

[Grngiant]

ok this is my data sheet for my latest alignment.

I would get the toe-in set to 1/8". This will help stop the darting wandering problem.

 

[Petrolburner]

I'm running the 4" WeldTec lift kit and on my last trip to Baja I recall coming to the conclusion that I didn't want or need a steering stabilizer. I only have 30.5" tall tires though. If the steering ratio was a little quicker, say 2.7 turns lock to lock instead of 4 full turns, then it would probably be more useful. Just a guess.

Ok so I just did another 4000 mile trip in my Motovan fully loaded, Redmond OR to South of Mulege and back again plus side trips. I want the steering stabilizer for highway cruising. The bump steer doesn't bother me much in the dirt but it does on the highway. Did I just do the trip fine without it? Yes. Do I want it for the next trip? Yes.

 

[Mwilliamshs]

I would get the toe-in set to 1/8". This will help stop the darting wandering problem.

oh wow I didn't read the whole page. Yes, get that 1/32 of toe turned into 1/8 or even 3/16 depending on tire diameter. Taller and wider tires tolerate and frankly need more toe-in.

 

[Petrolburner]

Installed my WTD steering stabilizer kit the other night. I painted the attachment pieces in POR-15 before the install. I only had time to drive it around the block so standby for a review.

 

[Grngiant]

I have had my WTD stabilzer kit installed for about a week. This should be considered mandatory for those running oversized tires on their 2wd vans.
Potholes, rocks, and other hits are much more controlled now, just the icing on the cake.