fuso 4x4 rebuild
- Thread starter alan
- Start date
PKDreamers
Adventurer
G'day Alan,
I notice you have not cranked the chassis down as per original so that will mean a different spring mounting arrangement for the rear axle. Would this or could this also be an advantage in some other way, ie shock mounts different spring geometry.
Just Curious.
Rob
Newcastle
I notice you have not cranked the chassis down as per original so that will mean a different spring mounting arrangement for the rear axle. Would this or could this also be an advantage in some other way, ie shock mounts different spring geometry.
Just Curious.
Rob
Newcastle
G'day Alan,
Reason for my question is I'm in a similar position as you were when you took delivery of your truck. This one I got was decribed by a mate as real gooooood, just a bit of light surface rust on the chassis, nothing a wire brush on a grinder wouldn't clean up. With only 100,000k's on the clock I thought yeh allright lets go. Allthough my chassis has no cracks it is badly rusted around the crossmember areas and lapped joints.
I have scared up an FE chassis and as far as I know the only difference is the absence of the cranked section (some more knowledgeable people might like to chime in here....whatcharterboat?). It is well priced and rust free however I will go over it thoroughly for cracks prior to taking delivery, and of course take a heap of measurements to make sure it all goes together.
As soon as I saw your post and the amazing work you have done I thought thats it, replace the chassis with an FE and rework the rear mounts.
Thanks for the help Alan and keep up the good work.
Cheers
Rob
Reason for my question is I'm in a similar position as you were when you took delivery of your truck. This one I got was decribed by a mate as real gooooood, just a bit of light surface rust on the chassis, nothing a wire brush on a grinder wouldn't clean up. With only 100,000k's on the clock I thought yeh allright lets go. Allthough my chassis has no cracks it is badly rusted around the crossmember areas and lapped joints.
I have scared up an FE chassis and as far as I know the only difference is the absence of the cranked section (some more knowledgeable people might like to chime in here....whatcharterboat?). It is well priced and rust free however I will go over it thoroughly for cracks prior to taking delivery, and of course take a heap of measurements to make sure it all goes together.
As soon as I saw your post and the amazing work you have done I thought thats it, replace the chassis with an FE and rework the rear mounts.
Thanks for the help Alan and keep up the good work.
Cheers
Rob
whatcharterboat
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Hi Rob,
Gidday. How are you? Welcome to Expo. Nice part of the world where you are.
Yeah, if you hunt around , you will find a couple of threads on this but .......as Alan has just said I would agree too...they are the one and the same thing. Maybe the easiest way out is to cut your replacement FE in half and utilize the stepped sections of the old rusty FG. That is unless the "S"s are too rusty as well. Some of the wreckers might have some good ones lying around though.
I'm sure the way Alan is going about the spacing of the diff on his custom chassis will be fine judging by the high degree of engineering so far :clapsmile but I'm not so sure about how you would successfully space your suspension down on the 4.5mm C-section FE chassis. I'd be very careful about that one. Have a look at the way Isuzu tackled it when they went away from the stepped chassis to the current straight chassis.......they spaced between the springs and the diff......not sure I'd go that way either.
Hopefully your stepped sections won't be rusty at all. They are 6mm thick in that section. Get someone to rivet the whole thing back together properly too if you go that way.
John.
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Thanks Men,
Yes John, it is a nice area, I'm to the north of Newcastle on a little 25ac property hidden in the hills. I work from home manufacturing an agricultural machine......great lifestyle.
Cranked section is pretty much R.S. at lapped points, so I'll be going with the straight FE chassis. Looking at attaching the spring hangers using a fabrication bolted to side of the chassis and extending underneath the bottom flange like putting a chassis section under the rail and extending a plate up the side of the web and bolting through both, then mount the hanger to the lower section which would be at the same height as if I had used the cranked down chassis. Any flex from side to side could be countered with a crossmeber between the fabricated lower hanger mounts. This would stiffen the chassis forward and aft of the diff but still allow sufficient chassis flex beyond the crossmembers.
I'll have a look at the Isuzu.........but I'm not that keen on using blocks between diff and springs. To keep things on the straight and level I'd be looking for around 200mm............the photo of Alans old chassis at the beginning of the thread is a clear illustration of the block height, top of rear section is pretty much in line with the bottom of the front section.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers
Rob.........a lttle bit further downunder than you guys.
Yes John, it is a nice area, I'm to the north of Newcastle on a little 25ac property hidden in the hills. I work from home manufacturing an agricultural machine......great lifestyle.
Cranked section is pretty much R.S. at lapped points, so I'll be going with the straight FE chassis. Looking at attaching the spring hangers using a fabrication bolted to side of the chassis and extending underneath the bottom flange like putting a chassis section under the rail and extending a plate up the side of the web and bolting through both, then mount the hanger to the lower section which would be at the same height as if I had used the cranked down chassis. Any flex from side to side could be countered with a crossmeber between the fabricated lower hanger mounts. This would stiffen the chassis forward and aft of the diff but still allow sufficient chassis flex beyond the crossmembers.
I'll have a look at the Isuzu.........but I'm not that keen on using blocks between diff and springs. To keep things on the straight and level I'd be looking for around 200mm............the photo of Alans old chassis at the beginning of the thread is a clear illustration of the block height, top of rear section is pretty much in line with the bottom of the front section.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers
Rob.........a lttle bit further downunder than you guys.
trek 4wd safaris
Observer
thats not a codan base is that a barret?
Yes it's a Barret antenna.
Bar work may look easy but believe me free hand bending is not easy.
We have been busy in the shop so not much time to play with the canter!
But have started attacking the rear diff housing, had it sand blasted first then found the spring perches were cracked and rusted underneath so off they came to be remade, I also removed the old shocker mounts as these are no longer required, the new housing should hold at least an extra litre of oil which will help with temperature and long service life.
But have started attacking the rear diff housing, had it sand blasted first then found the spring perches were cracked and rusted underneath so off they came to be remade, I also removed the old shocker mounts as these are no longer required, the new housing should hold at least an extra litre of oil which will help with temperature and long service life.
D
Deleted member 9101
Guest
My jaw literally drops every time I read about this project.