MoGas
Central Scrutinizer
Average miles for that vintage. If the sunroof is flat across when closed and does not rattle, use it as a bargaining point. Then just never use it. For repair, the rail assemblies that have the cables and such list for around $530 each and you would need 2. The headliner on 93-94 is very fragile and will require a professional to remove and reinstall. This is with you doing all the other labor yourself. If you take it somewhere that specializes in sunroofs, they may have aftermarket parts available for less, but if it goes to Toyota, it will easily be a $2K fix.
Hard to say without seeing for myself, but common culprits are, in order of time/expense to repair: Distributor O ring, Valve cover gasket,
Front crank seal/oil pump cover. (I combine those, because you have to remove the crank pulley to replace the oil pump cover seal, and if you don't replace the oil pump cover seal while replacing the front crank seal, you're just silly), Oil pan arch seals, Rear main seal.
I never trust hoses of unknown age.
There are fixes for this in the FAQs on Mud. I bit the bullet and replaced both with new assemblies.
Probably just needs a new cable. They do wear out and get a bit of a hitch in the travel.
Of coruse. It is, after all, the superior A442F.
Supporting documentation or he said that they were done?
It is common for someone to either clean the truck really well to hide something or just because they want a nice presentation. You have to go with your gut. If the rest of the rig is detailed to a consistent level, I would lean more towards presentation.
Without pictures it is hard to advise on this. They all seem to get a little rust at the tail pipe from the condensation dripping out. When water condenses, it is very pure and is the most corrosive because it can leach minerals from the surrounding environment easier.
Use this as a bargaining chip.
Point out the birf clicking, sunroof issues, and mirror shaking, I'd walk if he won't take 3K. Without seeing it myself, 4K is already competitively priced. Also take a good look at the headlights. If there are any chips in the glass or condensation in the lens, they list for 350-400 depending on build date. That reminds me, on a 93, if the A/C drier is up high, forward of the battery tray on the left side, it is (or was) R12. It cools the cabin better, but is more expensive to repair due mainly to the cost of the refrigerant. It may have been converted. If it is behind the bumper, it is R134. You can also look at the tag on the driver's door for the build date. "Early" '93s are before 05/93.
'93 was a little bit funky because ABS was still an option. You could potentially end up with drum brakes and therefore a semi floating rear axle. If it has ABS, it will have 16" wheels, rear disc brakes, and a full floating rear axle.
On any '93 or 94 that you look at, pull the glove box down by pinching the edge stoppers in and look at the part number on the ECU. If it is 89661-60221, you are fine, If it is 89660-60220 or 89661-60170, they are known to develop issues. This is only on 93-94 model years. '95 and newer are OBDII and use a different ECU that will not interchange directly into an earlier OBDI truck.
Yup
in 100 years.
