FZJ/FJ 80 Help please?

[Topgun514]

Is there a service manual with the intervals online?

If I get one I am thinking to get it baselined:

Front axle, birfields
brakes.
Oil, Tranny, T-case, change fluids
Flush Rad
Tune up: Cap, dist, wires, plugs

That is of course the "if the 80 is clean" already. So now please correct me! Again, thanks a ton guys, you have all been a huge help!

 

[yohavos]

The entire FSM (pertinent to 95-97's specifically, though a lot is the same for 93 and 94) is available for download through MUD. I've only referenced it for how-to's, so I honestly don't even know if there is a service schedule in it, but I'm assuming that information is available somewhere.

Here you go:: 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser Factory Service Manual PDF

This is just an inkling of the support the mud community provides. Between this document and a quick search, you'll find whatever info you could possibly need to diagnose or fix anything.

With regards to baselining, that sounds like a good start. Depending on any oil leaks, there are a few basic seals and o-rings that tend to be neglected that can be changed out. A big one is the dizzy o-ring, which I'm assuming would be changed when you do that. The crank case has some philips head bolts that can strip, so many replace them with some torx type bolts when they do that seal. Depending on your cooling system, many like to modify/replace their fan clutch as well, though this isn't necessarily a requirement.

These are pretty resilient trucks, but previous owner neglect can be pretty haggard. PM stuff can take you as far down the rabbit hole as you're willing to go, so it's not a bad idea to compile the type of list you are right now. There are times when the line between baselining and modifying starts to blur.



-Mike

 

[MoGas]

Is there a service manual with the intervals online?

Yes, through TIS. It should be in the Owner's manual, too.

If I get one I am thinking to get it baselined:

Front axle, birfields

$200->$1000 depending on what you find in there.

brakes.

Pads only or with new rotors? $100-$600

Oil, Tranny, T-case, change fluids

Depending on if you use basic dinosaur oil or uber high end synthetics, $100-$300

Flush Rad

~$50 for 2 gallons of Toyota red, then add for a couple gallons of distilled water

Tune up: Cap, dist, wires, plugs

I want to say those parts all together run ~$300

That is of course the "if the 80 is clean" already. So now please correct me! Again, thanks a ton guys, you have all been a huge help!

 

[Topgun514]

MoGas, that all seemed pretty reasonable, and depending on the condition, I will be doing dino-oil.

But the 2 things that stood out were the Anti-freeze and tune up parts. The tune up seemed about 150 more than average? Is this not stuff we can get at autozone or do we need to order it? I'm not going to put crap in but I didnt think copper was that much.

Also, is Toyota Red needed for some additive? Or will dexcool or ol'greeny work?

 

[yohavos]

The Toyota Red vs. Green coolant thing has been beat to death over on mud. There are proponents for both, but I think the most important thing to take away is that they react negatively with each other, so consistency is key. Switching from one to another (for whatever reason) requires a very good flush of the entire system.

Personally, I stick to Toyota Red, and when asked by others, that's what I recommend.

I run regular old dino oil with OEM filters and change regularly.

With tune up stuff, OEM is the way to go. Plug wires for instance, can be a bit spendy, but they last well beyond required maintenance intervals.

 

[MoGas]

MoGas, that all seemed pretty reasonable, and depending on the condition, I will be doing dino-oil.

But the 2 things that stood out were the Anti-freeze and tune up parts. The tune up seemed about 150 more than average? Is this not stuff we can get at autozone or do we need to order it? I'm not going to put crap in but I didnt think copper was that much.

Also, is Toyota Red needed for some additive? Or will dexcool or ol'greeny work?

The Toyota Red vs. Green coolant thing has been beat to death over on mud. There are proponents for both, but I think the most important thing to take away is that they react negatively with each other, so consistency is key. Switching from one to another (for whatever reason) requires a very good flush of the entire system.

Personally, I stick to Toyota Red, and when asked by others, that's what I recommend.

I run regular old dino oil with OEM filters and change regularly.

With tune up stuff, OEM is the way to go. Plug wires for instance, can be a bit spendy, but they last well beyond required maintenance intervals.

Yup. Except I run Mobil 1

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Mobil 1 has been documented thru testing to be still good at 13K+ miles on the 1FZJ motor

 

[sleeoffroad]

But the 2 things that stood out were the Anti-freeze and tune up parts. The tune up seemed about 150 more than average? Is this not stuff we can get at autozone or do we need to order it? I'm not going to put crap in but I didnt think copper was that much.

If you are buying a 80 due to reliability, do not make it junk with junk service parts.

At retail level using Toyota OE parts a front axle service can be expensive if the parts are trashed. These can be had cheaper on line, but not by much

Toyota OE birfs - $550 - $600 ea
Spindles $250 ea
Shafts - $300 for both
Wheel bearings - $40 a piece - need 4

Then there is the normal seals and gaskets.

 

[yohavos]

If you are buying a 80 due to reliability, do not make it junk with junk service parts.

Well put.

 

[MoGas]

Here is a great thread from 'Mud detailing a guy's impressions about his 80. I think it really captures what most of us 80 owners feel. When you think about getting cheaper parts, realize the attention to detail that Toyota put into even a set of spark plug wires is top notch.

 

[Topgun514]

After scrolling through mud, it seems GREAt. some good deals of rigs baselined with the lift and bumpers I wanted anyways at low mileage and $8000 or so. That could definitely be a motivator. Allowing me a differing allotment of time to continue to work at my own speed on this. Thanks again guys!

 

[Topgun514]

Test drove one!!!


93' Cruiser: 218000K
Sun roof does not open, only lifts up.
Small oil leak, from who knows where? Leaks only on bottom and the front skid underneath the belts starts then goes all the way back. Top of the engine is clean
Hoses all are in good shape, no rot and seem very pliable.
Driver side mirror shakes terribly!
Gas pedal!!! Whats up with that? I need led feet to push down hard enough, but it really was not a big deal, just silly.
Tranny shifts great
Brakes just done, stops great
carpets extremely clean, no rot, smells, or anything under them too.
Muffler, slight rot on tail pipe end, but frame is perfect condition, no rust or scratches

Buttttt, clicking in the front. Bad birfeilds. This would be perfect because I expect to do them anyways.

Price is $4000.

I am not just going to jump on the first one but wow, I want to. They drive so smoothly and quiet. Cruise at 70 on the highway, and you guys are right, my 88 XJ could drive faster, but less power at higher speeds. Picking up speed, no way, but very tanky!!!

I am in love.

 

[gahi]

check out this one. 1994, 202k, lockers, $3600

http://westslope.craigslist.org/cto/2673605002.html

 

[yohavos]

Test drove one!!!


Sun roof does not open, only lifts up. - Pricey to fix, if I recall. Documented on mud.

Small oil leak, from who knows where? Leaks only on bottom and the front skid underneath the belts starts then goes all the way back. Top of the engine is clean - These are the common weeps and leaks that people deal with. A lot of these are distributor o-ring, crank case seal, etc... all PM things, nothing super complicated about them

Driver side mirror shakes terribly! - Another somewhat common issue I've seen pop up on mud. Never had this issue so I don't recall the fix, but I'm willing to bet it's well documented and very simple.

Enjoy the search, it's frustrating, but I did enjoy scouring craigslist and the thrill of test driving other people's junk! Once you find the right 80, you'll love it even more. Another thing to be on the lookout for is replaced body panels and/or glass. Not sure if you read through Slee's buying guide or not (I think it was linked earlier, it's on his site, it's awesome) but I mention this because the windshields in these rigs need to be installed in a very particular manner, and often times aftermarket replacements will leak. Mine did, though I was able to seal it pretty easily after reading a write up on mud about the issue.


GL with you search!

 

[Topgun514]

Yeah, thats another thing- his windsheld was cracked about 3 inches. I assume they are $$$. And I also have been following/lurking mud and read slees website enough to memorize the points. When I delve into an 80 I will print it off as a checklist. Again, thanks guys!