Gitout Expedition Build - 2013 Toyota Tacoma DC TRD
- Thread starter montypower
- Start date
montypower
Adventure Time!
Thanks for the feedback! I'm happy with the bumper so far. It is low profile with excellent approach angles, heavy construction and good fitment. I've done a number of hard pulls with the Warn Xeon 10s winch without issues. Also, recovered stuck rigs with the Viking recovery rope. Solid setup. I originally looked at the ARB and Demello bumpers. I like the design of the Demello but some people have reported the construction being somewhat weak. ARB is a solid choice but fitment is extremely poor. I still can't believe people have to chop up their stock bumper to fill some of the huge gaps. That combined with the poor approach angle and overly bulky appearance made it an easy decision. BTW... Glad I didn't need to cut up my stock bumper! I sold it on Craigslist for $400!!!
montypower
Adventure Time!
GoPro snow pic. 
montypower
Adventure Time!
Not much. I've seen multiple people trimming it down for more "low profile" look. I'm happy with it as-is. It's at least a couple inches lower than the factory radio antenna. My radio antenna barely hits the door header. Does your antenna hit?
montypower
Adventure Time!
Our group volunteered for the SOLV Forest cleanup workday. Then we explored several trails afterwards. Sorry, no action pictures...
Stay involved. Make a difference.
Stay involved. Make a difference.
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montypower
Adventure Time!
Also... Had a new drive shaft built about a month or so ago. The factory 3 u-joint shaft is junk. It shuttered off the line when the truck was stock. It only got worse after being lifted. And to top it off... the u joints were out of phase from the factory. There are 2 basic driveline theories with these 2 piece shafts.
1. Toyota Method = make the 1st shaft & 2nd shaft within 1-1.5 degrees of each other + match the diff flange and tcase flange angle.
2. Spicer Method = make the 1st shaft 1-1.5 degrees down from tcase flange + match the diff flange to the 1st shaft. 2nd shaft is whatever it is. BTW... Spicer makes the Toyota driveline...
I setup the driveline using both methods without success. And yes, I have a digital angle finder so everything was spot on. Finally, gave up and had a custom driveline built. It has a somewhat firmer carrier bearing with CV joint behind it. Also, moved the slip section to the rear. It seems to have resolved the obnoxious shutter issue. It's much better than the 1 piece driveline option which has critical velocity issues (ie vibrates if you go 70+). Maybe a good solution for others plagued by the Taco vibes.
1. Toyota Method = make the 1st shaft & 2nd shaft within 1-1.5 degrees of each other + match the diff flange and tcase flange angle.
2. Spicer Method = make the 1st shaft 1-1.5 degrees down from tcase flange + match the diff flange to the 1st shaft. 2nd shaft is whatever it is. BTW... Spicer makes the Toyota driveline...
I setup the driveline using both methods without success. And yes, I have a digital angle finder so everything was spot on. Finally, gave up and had a custom driveline built. It has a somewhat firmer carrier bearing with CV joint behind it. Also, moved the slip section to the rear. It seems to have resolved the obnoxious shutter issue. It's much better than the 1 piece driveline option which has critical velocity issues (ie vibrates if you go 70+). Maybe a good solution for others plagued by the Taco vibes.
montypower
Adventure Time!
Snorkel is 9" shorter than the antenna. Hope that helps.
montypower
Adventure Time!
I had Six States in Portland (local) make it. Cost was about $600. High Angle Driveline is my first choice but they wanted $900 and being in Cali required shipping. They essentially setup the driveline up the same. You'd probably be better off finding a local shop to save shipping and limit down time.
You'll need an angle finder. Otherwise, you'll just be guessing and hoping. This is the angle finder I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBRQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Toy Tech has lots of different axle shims. ARB had carrier bearing spacer (available from ToyTech).
Final setup with the new driveline... Flipped the carrier bearing so the first shaft is 2.5 degrees down. Rear axle is shimmed 2.5 degrees up.
Uglyduck
Adventurer
Good info, thank you!
I found that same angle guage but not for that price, great find.
I purchased steel shims from an online source I found through a tacoma forum. The OME kit I purchased from Sierra Expeditions came with the bearing shim kit although it didn't help much. Hopefully the shims help, if not I may try the street tacos bearing drop kit http://stores.streetacos.com/-strse-1/carrier-bearing-driveshaft-vibration/Detail.bok. They claim a high success rate with a significant drop of over 1". But claims are just that until verified. Fortunately its still cheaper than a drive shaft and I'm willing to give it a shot.
A new shaft is my final option and I didn't know that the single piece shafts had their own problems. Thanks for posting that. Did you look at the Tom Woods single piece shafts?
If you get a chance, can you drop in a photo of the new shaft installed?
I found that same angle guage but not for that price, great find.
I purchased steel shims from an online source I found through a tacoma forum. The OME kit I purchased from Sierra Expeditions came with the bearing shim kit although it didn't help much. Hopefully the shims help, if not I may try the street tacos bearing drop kit http://stores.streetacos.com/-strse-1/carrier-bearing-driveshaft-vibration/Detail.bok. They claim a high success rate with a significant drop of over 1". But claims are just that until verified. Fortunately its still cheaper than a drive shaft and I'm willing to give it a shot.
A new shaft is my final option and I didn't know that the single piece shafts had their own problems. Thanks for posting that. Did you look at the Tom Woods single piece shafts?
If you get a chance, can you drop in a photo of the new shaft installed?
montypower
Adventure Time!
Don't waste your money on the "street taco" drop until you know how much you actually need. Go too far and you'll invert it. The middle u-joint should be at least at 1-1.5 degrees (difference in angle between first & second shaft). With the angle finder you can raise and lower the carrier bearing then measure what spacer you need. With that type setup... you'll want to make the pinion flange and tcase flange equal. Don't just throw at it money and hope.
Single shaft with have issues around 70mph. That's why Toyota used the 2 piece. There is a critical velocity issue with it being the driveline is so long.
Little bit of fun information... Toyota has been doing 2 piece driveshafts since the 90s. Why are these so troublesome? Simple. All the previous generation Tacoma and Pickup drivelines used a CV joint behind the carrier bearing. I guess they cut costs on the latest generation... So essentially, I just followed the driveline design used in previous model Tacos. Here's another possibility... Get a 95-04 Taco shaft and have it re-tubed / change flanges as needed. That might save some cash...
Verdict. It's a poor design. Carrier bearing is too weak especially with the 3 u-joint type shaft. Mine had issues when it was stock (brand new). Then it became horrible after being lifted.
Single shaft with have issues around 70mph. That's why Toyota used the 2 piece. There is a critical velocity issue with it being the driveline is so long.
Little bit of fun information... Toyota has been doing 2 piece driveshafts since the 90s. Why are these so troublesome? Simple. All the previous generation Tacoma and Pickup drivelines used a CV joint behind the carrier bearing. I guess they cut costs on the latest generation... So essentially, I just followed the driveline design used in previous model Tacos. Here's another possibility... Get a 95-04 Taco shaft and have it re-tubed / change flanges as needed. That might save some cash...
Verdict. It's a poor design. Carrier bearing is too weak especially with the 3 u-joint type shaft. Mine had issues when it was stock (brand new). Then it became horrible after being lifted.
Uglyduck
Adventurer
I don't want to turn your build thread into a "vibe" thread, but one more question. Did you put the shims in with the fat part forward to bring it up?
montypower
Adventure Time!
Fat end back to go up.