Gladiator Pop-Up Pass Through Camper Build

Mules

Well-known member
While I'm waiting for more parts to come in, I'm thinking about another challenge, the bed platform. Any experience you guys have is appreciated. The two options I'm thinking about are as follows:

First option is (3) 48"x 25" x 3/4" AC plywood. I can take these planks down and get them out of the way, so I can walk around. It will also allow plenty of headroom when pop top is not up. Will these be strong enough to span a 4' gap without additional support?

Second option is (1) 48" x 75" x 3/4" AC plywood. It would be hinged at the front, with pneumatic struts to push up, when not needed. I think this will be strong enough to span the gap. Maybe I need a front 1x4 to support the front edge. It will also be fast and easy to access. Downside is it will have less headroom when pop top is down.

Both would rest on a 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle on the sides.

What do you guys think/recommend?

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pith helmet

Well-known member
The span strength will depend on the weight I think. We use 3/4” spanning 40” for two and there is a bit of sag but not bad. You might consider making a rollable/foldable pallet of narrow (3”) slats of a strong wood like teak. It could be arranged together with a similar width webbing and equal air space between each slat.
What is the mattress you plan to use?
 

Mules

Well-known member
The span strength will depend on the weight I think. We use 3/4” spanning 40” for two and there is a bit of sag but not bad. You might consider making a rollable/foldable pallet of narrow (3”) slats of a strong wood like teak. It could be arranged together with a similar width webbing and equal air space between each slat.
What is the mattress you plan to use?
Pretty cool idea. Ikea has some under bed slats like this. The Europeans seem to like the slat style on Range Rovers. It's not a roll up, but pictured below is a slat bed. I'm thinking an RV 4" memory foam mattress is what I want. They come in 48" x 75" size, which is difficult to find.

Screen Shot 2022-03-21 at 12.15.26 PM.png

Here is Brec's Ursa Minor bed.

Screen Shot 2022-03-21 at 12.21.24 PM.png
 
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pith helmet

Well-known member
We covered the main surface and all the rough edges of the ply with some thin fabric for speaker cabinets. Makes it a lot nicer.
With all your fiberglass skills I bet you could make some lighter and stronger pieces.
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pith helmet

Well-known member
And for the stability and support we wanted, the cross piece just fits in. Stores flat in my office when not in use.
Different application, though of course 3487AF14-329D-49E3-B836-3AFE76525D95.jpeg
 
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1000arms

Well-known member
... First option is (3) 48"x 25" x 3/4" AC plywood. I can take these planks down and get them out of the way, so I can walk around. It will also allow plenty of headroom when pop top is not up. Will these be strong enough to span a 4' gap without additional support? ...
The span strength will depend on the weight I think. We use 3/4” spanning 40” for two and there is a bit of sag but not bad. You might consider making a rollable/foldable pallet of narrow (3”) slats of a strong wood like teak. It could be arranged together with a similar width webbing and equal air space between each slat.
What is the mattress you plan to use?
Pretty cool idea. Ikea has some under bed slats like this. The Europeans seem to like the slat style on Range Rovers. ...
1.5" square ash "slats", with webbing for quick setup and consistent placement, would be extremely strong, but one would want to make sure the webbing held them securely in place when in use.

The 3/4" panels, with extra 3/4" ribs/slats epoxied to the underside, would also be extremely strong. One could cut holes in the panel for handles, airflow, and weight reduction.

Although I think @pith helmet 's idea is a very good one, I think you would better served by ribbing the panels you were considering.
 

Mules

Well-known member
The hatchback struts are in! They work but I'm not comfortable with the amount of pressure on the plexiglass window. The weight of the hatch was between two strut sizes and I picked the heavier one. Looks like I'll drop down to the lighter strut. Pretty easy to change out though.

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pith helmet

Well-known member
Is this a sleeping platform for the JK in the background?
yes it is. It stays in there full time.
unfortunately I don’t really have any good pics of it installed. I have since lowered it from 7” to 3.5” to gain headroom.
 

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Mules

Well-known member
yes it is. It stays in there full time.
unfortunately I don’t really have any good pics of it installed. I have since lowered it from 7” to 3.5” to gain headroom.
I like the way you hide the piano hinge along the seam. Most people put the hinge on the surface of the platform, which doesn't look as clean. I'll probably do a similar folding platform in my rig to allow seating over the front bed rail of the Gladiator. I'll also need vertical spacers between the platform and the folded down back seats of the Gladiator. Thanks for the pics.
 

VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
Still need to clean off some smudges, but I think it turned out pretty nice. I have a thin scratch in the paint, but it looks like the bottom fiberglass edge conceals it. I used flat black which looks like gloss from the outside of the vehicle and flat from the inside. What do you think?
Looks awesome... OEM from the outside!
 

pith helmet

Well-known member
I like the way you hide the piano hinge along the seam. Most people put the hinge on the surface of the platform, which doesn't look as clean. I'll probably do a similar folding platform in my rig to allow seating over the front bed rail of the Gladiator. I'll also need vertical spacers between the platform and the folded down back seats of the Gladiator. Thanks for the pics.

Thanks. That would be nice to get the seating or shelf/table use out of it while stowed. When this one is flipped back you can sit on it with leg room and change clothes etc.
I envy your ability to stand!
 

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