Gladiator Pop-Up Pass Through Camper Build
- Thread starter Mules
- Start date
Mules
Well-known member
Here's a link on how to put together a linear actuated bed lift (also top lift) for a camper.
www.progressiveautomations.com
Enhancing Comfort with Linear Actuators for Automation and DIY Projects
Discover how to optimize your RV's space and functionality with linear actuators. Learn about automated solutions for slide-out rooms, solar panels, bed lifts, and more, including a DIY camper van project. Elevate your RV experience with Progressive Automations' high-quality actuator systems.
www.progressiveautomations.com
CoyoteThistle
Adventurer
Have you looked at Breha pop top/roof lifters? I used them in combination with electronic actuators on a hard-side pop-up. They are used on soft-side pop-ups too I know.
LostInTheWorld
Builder/Traveler
Years ago, our old Italian roof top tent (Maggiolina) used a #25 roller chain (basically a small bike chain) to synchronize the multiple lift acme screws. It made a nice synchronized lift from one hand crank. It worked great, made a satisfying sound, and was very smooth.
Mules
Well-known member
Nice and simple. Wonder if it's available in the US. Do you think two would work on my small top, or would I have to put four on it? I'm guessing those are springs inside, but they are hard to see.
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CoyoteThistle
Adventurer
Answer to the 2 vs. 4 question depends I think. Four is a lot of force if your roof is really light weight. Closing it might require a good bit of yanking. Another thing to consider is that each lifter gives good lateral stability for the roof in only the direction of the long axis of the lifter - using four, one on each edge, should give you a super stable roof in the up position. If you go with two, one on the front and back say, the roof would be stable from side to side, but not fore and aft. Developing a secondary stabilization strategy for fore-aft rigidity would be simple I think, but one more thing to deal with.
Other thing to keep in mind is that the lifting force varies as the lifter goes from closed to all the way open - force is essentially zero when totally closed (because of the geometry) and again when totally open (little to no tension on the springs). Most of the lifting force is in the maybe middle 50% of the extension. With soft sides, having the up position in that middle range somewhere would give you good tension on your fabric and a roof that could take some snow loading or what ever. Said another way, if you want your pop-up to be 550mm tall, get the lifter with the 700mm range - you wont get the full 550mm out of the 550mm range one.
Hope that all made sense!
I got mine from OZ via EBay. Worked out to about $400 for a pair shipped IIRC.
Other thing to keep in mind is that the lifting force varies as the lifter goes from closed to all the way open - force is essentially zero when totally closed (because of the geometry) and again when totally open (little to no tension on the springs). Most of the lifting force is in the maybe middle 50% of the extension. With soft sides, having the up position in that middle range somewhere would give you good tension on your fabric and a roof that could take some snow loading or what ever. Said another way, if you want your pop-up to be 550mm tall, get the lifter with the 700mm range - you wont get the full 550mm out of the 550mm range one.
Hope that all made sense!
I got mine from OZ via EBay. Worked out to about $400 for a pair shipped IIRC.
Mules
Well-known member
Thanks for the great advice about lift length and stability. This will save me a lot of trial and error frustration, if I go this route. I read that you can take out a spring if needed. I think one on each side with springs, and one on the back without a spring might work to stabilize the design. This idea is on my short list. There are a lot of options out there.
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Mules
Well-known member
So here is another option, (4) pneumatic struts.
If I did my trigonometry right, (4) of these struts will get me close to a 36" lift. Instead of front and back like Project M, I would do (2) on driver side and (2) on passenger side. So far the upper top weighs 70 lb. I figure I'll add another 30 lbs of paint, insulation, lining, lights, etc. That wil put it at about 100lbs. Do you think (4) 40 lb. struts would be overkill? The next lighter size would be too light at 20 lb. each.
By the way, both top and bottom shells come in at a total of 170 lbs, so far. I'm pretty happy with how light it is.
If I did my trigonometry right, (4) of these struts will get me close to a 36" lift. Instead of front and back like Project M, I would do (2) on driver side and (2) on passenger side. So far the upper top weighs 70 lb. I figure I'll add another 30 lbs of paint, insulation, lining, lights, etc. That wil put it at about 100lbs. Do you think (4) 40 lb. struts would be overkill? The next lighter size would be too light at 20 lb. each.
By the way, both top and bottom shells come in at a total of 170 lbs, so far. I'm pretty happy with how light it is.
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ITTOG
Well-known member
My roof is currently 100 pounds and I used four 50 pound gas struts. It works well. I will probably be about 150 to 160 when completed so will have plenty of lift. I was afraid it would be too difficult to close as it is now but it isn't. I think you will be fine.
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Mules
Well-known member
Thanks for the verification. I forgot the struts will be at an angle. We need to use vector forces. My build will have the struts at 60 degrees when extended, so only 2/3 of the total force will be upwards. 2/3 of 160 lb is 106 lb. 4-40lb struts should be just about right for me.
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