Gladiator Pop-Up Pass Through Camper Build

[pith helmet]

This is the one I was thinking about.

CF 812 WD low-pressure door and window foam - Foams - Hilti USA

Hilti Foams - CF 812 WD low-pressure door and window foam - Low-pressure foam for air-sealing, filling and insulating doors and windows without warping the frames or jambs

www.hilti.com

EDIT: The price!!! ?

 

[Mules]

Have you looked at Lizard Skin? Havent used personally, but researched it at one point and it seemed really effective. I think some here on Expo have used it, and Brian on the Solid Woodworks YouTube channel had segment on it if you’re researching.

I'll check it out.

 

[ITTOG]

Making interior panels today. Will wrap them in carpet like the bed platform.
View attachment 717478View attachment 717479View attachment 717480View attachment 717481

I like that wood look.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Mules]

Ordered the fridge on Easter sale. It's hard to layout the interior without knowing the size of the fridge.

 

[Mules]

It just arrived. I’m pretty exited about not needing ice this summer.

 

[Mules]

Fits nicely in the two locations I'll be using it.

1) In back seat when short hardtop is on.


2) In the bed when the camper is on.

 

[Mules]

Alright, time to talk power supply for the build. Tell me about your systems and recommendations. I'm sure you've got some opinions.

1) Use the Gladiators battery. Good while driving, not so much for camping.
2) Dual battery setup under the hood. Nice and expensive.
3) Jackery style portable (1500w ?) system in the camper. Nice and expensive.
4) DIY (100 amp/hour?) battery setup.

Also, how many days can I camp without using solar to recharge these systems?

 

[pith helmet]

Yesterday I listened to the latest Overland Journal podcast discussion on f ridges since I was thinking about taking the plunge.

‎The Overland Journal Podcast: Fridge/Freezers and soft coolers for Overlanding on Apple Podcasts

‎Show The Overland Journal Podcast, Ep Fridge/Freezers and soft coolers for Overlanding - Apr 21, 2022

podcasts.apple.com

When power sources were discussed, they mentioned using one hq starting battery and no house battery, conserving cranking power by turning the fridge off or the thermostat up when in camp. This would be especially useful for someone like me who moves nearly very day and has limited space and weight capacity.
However, with a build like yours I would probably pursue an alternate source, too.

Good podcast. I am going to listen again and play a drinking game when Scott Brady says the word ‘robust’. It may kill me.

 

[pith helmet]

This great how-to by @jscherb is what I will do if I ever add a house battery.

Barn Door for JK factory hardtops

OO tells me they're about to offer limited edition all-black Saddlebags for the JKU, JK and JL 2dr. They sent me a pair and asked me if I would take some photos for them since they don't have a JKU handy right now. Here's one installed just behind the rear seat: I decided to try them in the...

expeditionportal.com

 

[highwest]

I built a 100Ah lithium system for my fridge, diesel heater, water pump, LED lights (2), and phone charging (pics, music). I generally estimate that I can run for 3 days without charging.

Keep in mind that 100Ah of lithium is much different than lead acid (I’m sure you already knew that).

jscherb’s plan listed above is amazing (simple, “robust” ?, possible jump starting from the house), but is only compatible with lead acid batteries.

I tried to figure a way to jump start from my lithium house battery, but just ended up packing one of those little jump packs. I’ve never used it on my own vehicle, but I’ve helped others and they are great.

 

[Mules]

I built a 100Ah lithium system for my fridge, diesel heater, water pump, LED lights (2), and phone charging (pics, music). I generally estimate that I can run for 3 days without charging.

Keep in mind that 100Ah of lithium is much different than lead acid (I’m sure you already knew that).

jscherb’s plan listed above is amazing (simple, “robust” ?, possible jump starting from the house), but is only compatible with lead acid batteries.

I tried to figure a way to jump start from my lithium house battery, but just ended up packing one of those little jump packs. I’ve never used it on my own vehicle, but I’ve helped others and they are great.

Can you post some pictures? I'd love to see it all.

 

[Mules]

This is a fascinating battery. Has anyone tried replacing their single truck battery with a Dual Purpose Lithium Ion Phosphate battery like the one below? They have the cold cranking amps needed, can be deep cycled, recharged very fast, are half the weight, and last a long time. It sounds a bit too good to be true. Also has anyone found a 100ah one that fits a Gladiator?

 

[skijunkie]

About 2 years ago I built a compact stand-a-lone system to run an engel 35 as a freezer and couple 12v sockets (charge devices, run fans, etc). It can run the freezer 4 days without needing a charge. With three 115 watt solar panels I never needed external power last summer. Basically if I get half a day of sun every 4 days the system sustains itself.

Components include, 100 ah lithium battery, victron solar controller, victron battery monitor and shunt, Bluesea distribution panel, three breakers, a battery fuse, a plug in victron 15amp smart battery charger (haven’t needed this yet) and 3 solar panels.

I contemplated an all in one unit like the jackery. At the time their solar charging was very limited and slow. They have improved a lot since then. I do still like individual components over an all in one because you can spread the components out so can be out of the way more that a single big box.

If doing it today I would look at SOK or Ampere Time batteries instead of battleborn. 1/2 to 1/3 the price. I used victron which is more expensive than other brand but their solar controller is very compact for space saving.

I’m enjoying your camper box build on the gladiator. Hope this helps in your decision.

 

[86scotty]

Don't be afraid of running a couple of smaller or odd sized lithiums to make your approx. 100ah battery bank, or really any size battery bank. I like Scherb's idea except he is going very old school with the big blocky lead acid that take up so much space in a Jeep, and also I wouldn't trust any electronic component (solar controller in this case) from Harbor Freight. I'm not anti HF but I am with good reason anti HF when it comes to electronics that I depend on far from civilization. Check out my Oversleeper build for some alternate ideas. I have less than $500 in that system not including the CVS solar panel.

I'm not so sure about lithium as a starter battery yet personally. Not sure why, I think I would go for an AGM dual purpose over a lithium until they've had a few more years to prove themselves and come down in price. I recently switched to AGM dual purpose on another vehicle of mine (not my Jeep) and they are fantastic as is the warranty.

 

[coguzzi]

all my friends who switched to lithium starting batteries on thier motos eventually switched back to AGM, weight be damned. not up to the task. but the worst part for starting in all modern lithium is cold weather reliability. since they cant be charge below 0C (32F) but can be discharged down to ~-25C, you only get so many starts before battery is dead. lithium for house makes sence (even though i am a AGM hold out) but for starting--no way