GM fullsize AWD Van Info thread

[Inspired Adventurist]

Sorry no pics of before. But most of the rust was hidden by the running boards.
Removal was lots of self tapping screws and a few braces that were also rusty as hell.

Dah...Well! Time to grind. Possibly literally.

 

[Avogt]

New to the club. Bought a 2003 awd savana hightop. I see alot of good talk about Bilstein 4600 and Supersprings Sumo.
ANY parts store I visit don't list them as being compatible.
Are they a direct fit or any additional mounting hardware/modification required?
I'll be keeping it stock NO LIFT.
I'm looking for the part numbers as well.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers

 

[Avogt]

Excited to join the Express AWD van fam!

Thanks a bunch to everyone who's shared knowledge and high-quality information. I super stoked to have just picked up a 2003 Express AWD (185k mi) with an Explorer Conversion package from a motorcycle mechanic/racer/engineer in MI. It's got the dual-side barn doors, heated seats, and all the extra bells and whistles (or at least, the 03 version of bells and whistles). Also, I got a lucky bonus, it has a G80 LSD!

The seller added a set of Timbren bump stops in the rear, upgraded the tires to 265/75r16 BFG K02's (@80% tread life) with a size matched spare. I got an extra set of rims and tires. Transfer case and tire rods were both recently replaced.

I had a pre-purchase inspection done, and the mechanic was amazed at the limited amount of rust for a car of it's age from IN and MI. He said someone took very, good care of it, and gave me a clean bill of health on codes, drivetrain, and engine. I'll still have it brought my mechanic for a fluid/fill and check-over.

There are a few warts: A couple rips/smudges/smootze/squeaks here and there. The front suspension is probably due for a refresh, as it rides pretty rough over bumps or I need to air down the tires . There are a few interior lights out, and the radio system is gremlin plagued. All the blower's/louvres for the heat are strong and functional, but the A/C is out. Thankfully, it's winter and I can wait to have the A/C replaced in the spring.

My first set of tasks is getting an underbody rust inhibitor coating, chasing down and quieting shakes/squeaks on the interior that are pretty obnoxious. Then I'll install a lift and will replace the shocks. Depending on how difficult/impractical it is, I'd like to cut off the fiberglass underskirting, running boards, and bumper fascia. Getting rid of that stuff would claw back a couple inches of ground clearance.

My intentions with this rig, are to keep it simple. I have batteries, diesel heater, refrigerator, etc from a previous build of an 03 Sprinter 158" High Roof. I'll use those things so I can basecamp out of ski parking lots for the rest of the season. I still have the Sprinter, but I've been waiting on a new engine for way too long. My former daily driver (07 Honda Accord Hybrid: 270k mi. Held together literally with duct tape and zip ties) is at the far end of it's best days. I'll accept 60% of the liveability from this rig that I built into the Sprinter, for 90% fewer mechanical headaches, and when mechanicals happen, even a far north Maine mechanic will know exactly what to do and have parts in stock.

A few questions:
1. Has anyone done the work to remove the fiberglass underskirting, running boards, faux-bumper, etc? What did you have to do? Was the van two-toned as a result?

2. For the lift kit, I'm planning to just go with the BOR kit. Is there any feedback/opinions of the Fox vs Bilstein and additional helper springs vs none?

3. Swivel Mounts: This van has really fancy seats with a huge bundle of wires powering tilt, swivel, heat, lumbar support, etc. Has anyone installed a swivel seat and been able to keep these functions? Also, the driver's seat has about an inch of play between braking and accelerating which is disconcerting. Is there a a way to eliminate that motion?

Nice find. The ko2 tires, 265/75/16. Were they fitting fine w/o a lift?

 

[Inspired Adventurist]

Reply here for benefit of the larger community - The BFG's 265/75/r16 fit. There is a smidge of rub on the driver's side for split second if I have the wheels locked turning right and hit a bump. I'm going to also add the body lift kit from Boulder Off Road with new springs and helper shocks this spring when I do the rust work.

Added - The previous owner added timbren bump stops to the rear, and I'm pretty has cranked the torsion keys on the front. It rides a little harsh when I hit bumps/large road cracks in the front. I did have a loose bumper support bar, which exacerbated the sound intensity, but even fixing the, it's still a bit of a rough ride.

 

[Teacher88]

Welcome to the club. I have a 2013 Chevy that I love. In fact I love it so much I bought a 2003 GMC similar to the one you've got this past summer. It even has the G80 ( maybe this option was more likely in conversion vans??)

I found some pretty rusted rocker panels when I removed the running boards. I ended up cutting out what rust I could, chemically treating what remained as good as was possible and welded some new steel rockers on. I sanded and sprayed the 5 or 6 inches below the lowest body line with Stone Guard, matched rattle can paint and clear coat. It turned out great and should look good and stay rust free for a long time to come.

I did the 3/4 rear Suburban springs, indexed torsion keys and Bilstein's for a lift on my 2013 and it's a joy to drive. Cruises comfortably at 80 all day and lumps me to some great campsites with no drama. If I can't sell the 2003 before summer, I may end up giving it the same treatment.

I put a passenger swivel in the 2013 and had to lengthen most of the wiring. It's not a power seat so it was just the seat belt and airbag stuff. Worked great as long as it was rotated in then back out. Borrowed it to a friend, they spun it all the way around and tore up the wires. Aaargh!

Page 30 of this thread has links to the lift parts I used.

Where did you get the new rockers from?

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk

 

[TheEL]

Here's my suspension modification parts list. Great improvement to clearance and road manners...

GM fullsize AWD Van Info thread

Hi I'm a long time lurker and have learned a ton on this thread and others. I'm finally getting around to replacing the wheels and tires on my mostly stock 2011 AWD rig. I had my heart set on these American Classics at 17" and planning on running 265's (no lift). Their fitment guide...

expeditionportal.com

What year is your van?

Curious about how that control arm kit is working out. I have an 07' express awd with the torsion key lift in the front(maxed out) and blocks in the back. This setup seems to be putting a lot of wear on my tie rods and ball joints. Anyone else having this issue? Im wondering if I take the front torsion keys down one notch if it will help alleviate it.

 

[Willsfree]

What year is your van?

Curious about how that control arm kit is working out. I have an 07' express awd with the torsion key lift in the front(maxed out) and blocks in the back. This setup seems to be putting a lot of wear on my tie rods and ball joints. Anyone else having this issue? Im wondering if I take the front torsion keys down one notch if it will help alleviate it.

Express van AWD is 2005.
If you read my post, the Cognito control arms allowed the suspension full range for the tires to drop into holes and rise over bumps. Whereas the key lift only was unmanageable; every bump/pot hole/ road imperfection was jarring the suspension as it had topped out, tire couldn't drop into any depressions. The ride and handling was dangerous. As far as accelerated wear on parts, holding up well for 20k miles now. Van has good brakes, tires, suspension for blasting up to the Sierra during big snow storms. I highly recommend the control arm mod.

 

[jonnypage]

Express van AWD is 2005.
If you read my post, the Cognito control arms allowed the suspension full range for the tires to drop into holes and rise over bumps. Whereas the key lift only was unmanageable; every bump/pot hole/ road imperfection was jarring the suspension as it had topped out, tire couldn't drop into any depressions. The ride and handling was dangerous. As far as accelerated wear on parts, holding up well for 20k miles now. Van has good brakes, tires, suspension for blasting up to the Sierra during big snow storms. I highly recommend the control arm mod.

On your B3 setting did you have to crank the torsion bars a bunch with the tool just to get the bolts and blocks started on the b3 setting? I tried to get them in on that and I felt like there was waay to much tension on the torsion bars. I put them on the B2 setting which I feel like was pretty much the exact same as a generic torsion key lift but maybe a little extra thread on the torsion bolts. I think I would of been better off with slightly longer bolts

 

[kntr]

Anyone else use the Cognito control arms?

 

[drsmonkey]

Anyone else use the Cognito control arms?

I installed mine about 35k miles ago, and I think I am still on those same ball joints now.

The only change that I experienced in handling from them was the ability to get enough positive caster to be in spec and get good return to center.

You do have to use a limit strap because the tubular arms will be damaged by the oem droop limiter, so it does actually decrease suspension travel downwards some amount.

 

[TheEL]

Express van AWD is 2005.
If you read my post, the Cognito control arms allowed the suspension full range for the tires to drop into holes and rise over bumps. Whereas the key lift only was unmanageable; every bump/pot hole/ road imperfection was jarring the suspension as it had topped out, tire couldn't drop into any depressions. The ride and handling was dangerous. As far as accelerated wear on parts, holding up well for 20k miles now. Van has good brakes, tires, suspension for blasting up to the Sierra during big snow storms. I highly recommend the control arm mod.

Sorry Im pretty car illiterate but after reading again and researching torsion bars, torsion keys and how it can effect the ride its all making sense. I get a lot of squeaking from the front of the van when turning the wheel these days. I don't really blast anywhere but Ive been down a lot of bumpy roads and figured thats probably accelerating things if the limits of of suspension system are being hammered on.

My main concern was to know if that control arm kit would be compatible with my 07'. I know some things changed between those years but from my research it appears to be mainly interior. Upgraded trim, stereo, etc...

Curious to know if you need those limit straps as well. Im running 17" wheels.

 

[boardrider247]

What year is your van?

Curious about how that control arm kit is working out. I have an 07' express awd with the torsion key lift in the front(maxed out) and blocks in the back. This setup seems to be putting a lot of wear on my tie rods and ball joints. Anyone else having this issue? Im wondering if I take the front torsion keys down one notch if it will help alleviate it.

I had 190k on my vans front end, 100k of that with a torsion key lift before replacing ball joints/tie rods ECT. Even at that mileage it still drove fantastic. I only replaced parts as preventative maintenance. 210k after this weekend and running strong, though it did need a transmission rebuild around 205k

 

[Willsfree]

I installed mine about 35k miles ago, and I think I am still on those same ball joints now.

The only change that I experienced in handling from them was the ability to get enough positive caster to be in spec and get good return to center.

You do have to use a limit strap because the tubular arms will be damaged by the oem droop limiter, so it does actually decrease suspension travel downwards some amount.

The shop that installed the Cognito control arms said that I didn't need the limiting straps (which I had provided for install). It's possible they didn't want to take the time to make the mod, but I have not noticed any bottoming out issues. The control arms allow free movement up and down; stable at high speed, pushing hard on sharp corners, feel solid on steep fast descents fully loaded.

 

[TheEL]

I had 190k on my vans front end, 100k of that with a torsion key lift before replacing ball joints/tie rods ECT. Even at that mileage it still drove fantastic. I only replaced parts as preventative maintenance. 210k after this weekend and running strong, though it did need a transmission rebuild around 205k

Interesting. I remember seeing your threads back when I was building out my van. Im wondering why Im getting the extra strain on mine. I found a leaf spring builder/suspension shop close to me. Going to take it in to further diagnose.

 

[TheEL]

No surprise the leaf shop wants to build me a custom set of springs for 2k. I think i'll go with the suburban springs for now.

Anyone use the rough country control arms? Im wondering if these would work. https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-for...tml?find=2006-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-736544