Goal Zero Yeti 400 Experiences?

[dcg141]

Thanks for the info. The part that was most surprising to me is that it draws through the charge port even when the 12V output port is "off". I think I'll break up the input line with a relay that is tied to the ignition. Still a pretty slick setup, but not as slick as I'd hoped. If I were doing it again I'd probably build my own system from scratch.

Well I have both actually...a homemade one in my trailer where I have the room and the Goal Zero in my vehicle were I don't. I keep my fridge in the vehicle so the GZ is pretty much just for it alone. I do have room to stow away another 33 amp hour battery so I am going to chain it to the GZ. Unplugging it is not a big deal for me.

 

[snowblind]

Mine drew down my starting battery also so now I unplug it when its not running and has a draw. I knew that if you have batteries in a chain a draw will pull down the battery at the end first but I didn't think it would draw thru the charging port.

I finally tested my Yeti 400 in the truck. Sorry it took so long but I got distracted with motorcycles. :wings:

My Yeti 400 is NOT drawing down the vehicle battery in the way you describe. I tested with a 12v LED light and with the charge port connected the light will not light unless the Yeti 12v socket is turned on. This is of course the way we would expect it to be. Perhaps there is a problem with some of the Yetis.

Do you guys have solar panels to test with? Conventional wisdom says that you should be able to power an LED light with the 12v socket turned off and solar plugged in; just like you are currently doing with the vehicle battery.

I think you should all hit up GZ for a warranty. Getting power from a 12v socket that is supposed to be off is a pretty scary proposition to me.


Best regards,
Matt Crawley

 

[North]

My Yeti 400 is NOT drawing down the vehicle battery in the way you describe. I tested with a 12v LED light and with the charge port connected the light will not light unless the Yeti 12v socket is turned on.

I think you should all hit up GZ for a warranty.

Thanks for the update Matt! I requested to be connected with a different support rep at GZ and they mercifully granted my wish. Things are going much smoother now that I'm in contact with an EE; I think we're getting there. He thinks it might be an indirect short on the control board.

I don't have panels to test with, but did try with the wall charger a while back. As I recall, I couldn't recreate the problem with the wall charger (which made me think I'd wired something incorrectly in the car). Maybe the AC power from the wall charger doesn't behave the same as the DC from a battery or Solar? That theory probably doesn't hold water as I assume the wall charger has a transformer and all the GZ sees is DC power.

 

[dcg141]

I finally tested my Yeti 400 in the truck. Sorry it took so long but I got distracted with motorcycles. :wings:

My Yeti 400 is NOT drawing down the vehicle battery in the way you describe. I tested with a 12v LED light and with the charge port connected the light will not light unless the Yeti 12v socket is turned on. This is of course the way we would expect it to be. Perhaps there is a problem with some of the Yetis.

Do you guys have solar panels to test with? Conventional wisdom says that you should be able to power an LED light with the 12v socket turned off and solar plugged in; just like you are currently doing with the vehicle battery.

I think you should all hit up GZ for a warranty. Getting power from a 12v socket that is supposed to be off is a pretty scary proposition to me.


Best regards,
Matt Crawley

I have not tried to test it again to see if something else possibly caused the problem. Like you I still find it hard to believe that it was the GZ.

 

[bigskypylot]

I don't have a dual battery but I have a Yeti400 (not the new one) a Renogy 100W solar briefcase (no controller) and I have a Yamaha ef2000is generator if I need it. I plan on being out on an extended outing from the end of June til end of August. Thinking about the NL Power Pack as I think I'm going to be running a dual zone 60 NL fridge.

 

[spikemd]

If you are stationary, be sure u move the solar panel for optimal sun and no shade. any shade on the renogy renders if useless. the Powerfilm handles shade much better. You can watch the input wattage as u test the panels with shade. Depending on how often u r opening and closing, the Yeti should be sufficient.

 

[snowblind]

Got an email from GZ today with this comparison of Yet AGM vs Yeti Lithium. Short answer is around 25% more power, almost 50% less weight and around 40% more dollars.





Matt

 

[bigskypylot]

Matt,

I was toying with building a system and it would run almost as much as the 1400 using Blue Sea, Victron and CTEK components but was curious if there are any alternative batteries you can replace with what is already in the 400? Also, i could just add an extra battery via Anderson plug, correct? What precautions would i need or how would i charge the additional battery from the 400 itself? I have a 100w briefcase and took your idea and running a cable from my alternator/battery with a 60A inline fuse. Would i need a seperate solar charge controller (my panel doesnt have one due to the yeti already having a controller) or would i need a battery tender?

Thanks in advance!

I'm trying to just run a 12v fridge (leaning towards a Snomaster but contemplating National Luna) is all and some interior camp lights and charge phone/tablet/laptop. If all else fails, i have my Yamaha ef2000is generator to charge while camped. If i dont need to spend the money, i don't want to.

 

[tbisaacs]

Matt,

I was toying with building a system and it would run almost as much as the 1400 using Blue Sea, Victron and CTEK components but was curious if there are any alternative batteries you can replace with what is already in the 400? Also, i could just add an extra battery via Anderson plug, correct? What precautions would i need or how would i charge the additional battery from the 400 itself? I have a 100w briefcase and took your idea and running a cable from my alternator/battery with a 60A inline fuse. Would i need a seperate solar charge controller (my panel doesnt have one due to the yeti already having a controller) or would i need a battery tender?

Thanks in advance!

I'm trying to just run a 12v fridge (leaning towards a Snomaster but contemplating National Luna) is all and some interior camp lights and charge phone/tablet/laptop. If all else fails, i have my Yamaha ef2000is generator to charge while camped. If i dont need to spend the money, i don't want to.

If you are just trying run a fridge, a 400 and 100w panel will be fine. Coincidentally, I'm currently pulling 70w off of my renogy. More than enough to keep my fridge happy.

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[vartz04]

I built this. All in including lithium battery and the pelican case and solar panel and pure sine 300 watt inverter I am at $650ish. More than goal zero but lithium isn't cheep. The battery was $200 and the pelican was $110

 

[tbisaacs]

I built this. All in including lithium battery and the pelican case and solar panel and pure sine 300 watt inverter I am at $650ish. More than goal zero but lithium isn't cheep. The battery was $200 and the pelican was $110

Wow! Nice. How heavy is it?


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[vartz04]

Wow! Nice. How heavy is it?


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15 lbs or so. The case weighs more than the 35 AH battery.

 

[bigskypylot]

Nice and thanks!

 

[bigskypylot]

If you are just trying run a fridge, a 400 and 100w panel will be fine. Coincidentally, I'm currently pulling 70w off of my renogy. More than enough to keep my fridge happy.

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Any idea on rhe size of 400 battery or group? I have yet to take mine out or replace it.

Thanks!

 

[vartz04]

Any idea on rhe size of 400 battery or group? I have yet to take mine out or replace it.

Thanks!

It's a 33 AH battery