I have converted my Yeti 400 to using a LiFePo4 pack.
I asked Ping (http://www.pingbattery.com/) to build a custom pack that fit inside the cage in the Yeti. With the measurements I gave them they recommended a 40Ah pack, but I asked them what they could do if they made a pack with almost no margins, and they said they could push it to 55Ah (4S11P).
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They are using pouch cells (5ah per cell 130x100x6mm). The cells are stacked like this:
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The pack I received was slightly too large and I didnt dare to push it in by force into the Yeti. If I did it would be almost impossible to get it out again, so I decided to remove the shrink wrap (not a problem since it is protected inside the yeti anyway), and I also cut away the braces in the back with a dremel to give it a bit more space (not ideal, but I dont see a big problem, I treat it nicely). The weight is 4kg less now as well (just above 9kg instead of 13.2kg with the SLA battery.
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Things are going much smoother now that I'm in contact with an EE; I think we're getting there. He thinks it might be an indirect short on the control board.
If you tested with the vehicle off, it would mean that your 8mm input was effectively unplugged, no? I'm guessing you accounted for this, but if not I would expect the unit to behave normally under that condition (because your "vehicle off" = my "8mm unplugged" which is the condition under which mine performs normally). No need to re-investigate if you tested with the vehicle off, but if you did and you're game to try with ignition on, I'd be curious to know the result.This weekend I can recreate your "vehicle off/8mm plug in" scenario and see how my Yeti performs.
Have any of you looked at the new Yeti Lithium 1000 that can be purchased at Costco for $1000.00?
I've been all over the map with my accessory charging system and I have all the shock works brackets sitting on my work bench to add a second battery under the hood, was going to go with a BB or Odyssey battery, CTEC D250s and 7002 AC/DC charger, Vicron solar charger, etc. However, at the end of the day I'm looking at a way more complex system, with more expense, with no universal warrantee, installation headaches and lack of mobility compared to a Yeti Li 1000.
I'm strongly considering purchasing the Yeti Li 1000, strapping it down and running my ARB with it. I'll likely install a Genesis 110 plug to charge the Yeti 1000 and run the fridge at night. I can still install my roof rack solar panel and have the benefits of a 1500w continuous/3000w peak inverter already built in.
That's what I'm contemplating. I may do the 1400 when I can use the REI 20% coupon
If you are just trying run a fridge, a 400 and 100w panel will be fine. Coincidentally, I'm currently pulling 70w off of my renogy. More than enough to keep my fridge happy.
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Update: GZ sent me a new unit, which has allowed me to remove "faulty unit" from the list of potential problems. The same condition exists with the new unit swapped in.
Snowblind, I went through this thread again and noticed that in your setup you have the 8mm input wired to an ignition hot source, correct? I wired mine direct, and am wondering if this difference possibly accounts for the different behavior you saw when you tried to recreate this issue with your setup:
If you tested with the vehicle off, it would mean that your 8mm input was effectively unplugged, no? I'm guessing you accounted for this, but if not I would expect the unit to behave normally under that condition (because your "vehicle off" = my "8mm unplugged" which is the condition under which mine performs normally). No need to re-investigate if you tested with the vehicle off, but if you did and you're game to try with ignition on, I'd be curious to know the result.
After going through all the threads where Expo members have shown similar setups, I've noticed that everybody is using an ignition hot relay in conjunction with the input to the Yeti. I missed this on my first round of investigation. Either I've got some weird one-off problem that I've created, or nobody has noticed it because the isolator/relay masks it.
I'm going to install a cheap isolator this week, and have one question: Is it necessary to fuse the wire going between the Yeti and the isolator? Starting batt -> isolator is already fused. I suppose the Yeti-> isolator wire needs to be fused to protect against arcing if the wire were to be damaged somehow? Is there any internal fuse on the Yeti that would make this redundant?
I was toying with building a system and it would run almost as much as the 1400 using Blue Sea, Victron and CTEK components but was curious if there are any alternative batteries you can replace with what is already in the 400? Also, i could just add an extra battery via Anderson plug, correct? What precautions would i need or how would i charge the additional battery from the 400 itself? I have a 100w briefcase and took your idea and running a cable from my alternator/battery with a 60A inline fuse. Would i need a seperate solar charge controller (my panel doesnt have one due to the yeti already having a controller) or would i need a battery tender?
I'm trying to just run a 12v fridge (leaning towards a Snomaster but contemplating National Luna) is all and some interior camp lights and charge phone/tablet/laptop. If all else fails, i have my Yamaha ef2000is generator to charge while camped. If i dont need to spend the money, i don't want to.