Goal Zero Yeti 400 Experiences?

[nnnnnate]

I won a fridge at the end of July and while I've used it a few times I really put it and my battery through their paces this last labor day weekend. Temps weren't too high but I managed to get my only battery voltage low enough that the auto shut off engaged. I didn't do a ton of driving throughout the weekend which is atypical but still happens I guess. After reading through this whole thread I've decided I need to pick up one of these 400s. The OG one would be fine for me since I don't want to spend the extra coin for something more fancy. I'm in SLC so I guess I just need to make it down to their factory one of these days to see all their toys. They are $367 right now but I'd love to get one closer to $300.

Thanks to everyone for the great info that has been provided here over the years.

 

[spikemd]

I have had great luck with the Yeti 400 and adequate solar panels. I just picked up a new Flexopower 79w panel for my trip to Moab. Will be testing it against my Powerfilm 60w.

 

[spikemd]

It is actually smaller than I thought and a bit heavier. But weight is good if there is any wind. Looks to be the perfect size for laying on the windshield.

 

[quasar]

Hi Bjornb,

Thanks for posting details about your LifePo4 conversion - I've been planning to do the same with my Yeti 400 once the AGM battery is no longer good enough.

How are you finding the mod - has it caused any issues?

I suspect you should now have higher peak draw available, although I guess this won't be accessible without changing the fuses?

Do you discharge the battery to 100% Depth of Discharge, given this is one of the advantages of LifePo4?

By the way, what charge controller did Ping give you for the new battery? Did you need to disable the existing AGM charge controller?

Thanks!

 

[bjornb]

I must admit that I have not used it that much since I also have a Sherpa 100 that I use more often, but there has been no issues so far. I have not done many deep discharges since there has been no need so far.

Some more details:

Originally the AGM battery is connected to the powerpole ports on the each side and the electronics on separate wires:

The Yeti powerpoles are fitted with 60A fuses (you can see them on the left and right side of the electronics).

When converting to the Ping battery I also changed the internal connecors to powerpole since the Ping battery also use that, work in progress here:


The Ping battery has several connectors, the main connector with 75A PP, a smaller 30A PP which is for charging, and a small one with multiple wires for the BMS.
If the BMS is disconnected the pack is disabled and one can store it for a long time. With the BMS connected there is a small drain from the electronics and Ping recommended to recharge it at least every 3 months. The BMS is a high rate version rated for 60A continous, 70A cut off.

The PP connector on the left side of the Yeti is connected to the smaller charge PP on the pack (max charge current 20A, it can also handle 20A discharge). The Yeti electronics and the right PP port on the Yeti is connected to the main 75A powerpole.

I have two options for charging:
-Charge using the 5A charger supplied by ping, connected to the left PP port, which charges to 14.6V which is the voltage needed to activate BMS balancing.
-Charge using the internal Yeti charge/solar controller through the main connector (charging is also possible through the main connector, but there is no overvoltage protection on those wires). The Yeti controller charge to about 14.3-14.4V. This is also fine but does not trigger BMS balancing (thats ok, It does not need to be balanced that often, I just charge at home once in a while using the ping charger).

As you can see I use the existing AGM controller.

Also the battery level indicator on the Yeti display is no longer correct since the Ping pack has higher voltage, but I can live with that (one can hold the display button to switch to Wh consumed and use that as an indicator).

 

[quasar]

Sorry BjornB, thought I had replied but turns out it was only in my mind!

Thanks for the great detail, I've saved a pdf to preserve the pictures.

It is interesting that the BMS can be bypassed for charging, thought that was a must. Can overcharging happen when you connect it directly? Do you need to constantly monitor the voltage?

 

[tuesdayfox]

Hi guys,
I am now a proud owner of yeti 400..
just a quick questions, how many of us have to DIY the 8mm Charging cord?
and also I cant find a good souce for the GZ 6mm 12v cord.....
where did you get yours?

thanks

 

[astroserg]

Bought a used Yeti 400 for $100 with no cables and without a charger.
I had to make two cords/adapters. One for the in-car charging and another one MC4 to 8 mm. Car charging was pretty simple. Used a cigaret lighter part from an old Y-splitter and cut an 8 mm cable from an aftermarket charger for Yeti 400 (was not working well). For the MC4 adapter I bought an MC4 to 6 mm male cable from GZ and I also found an 8 mm to 6 mm adapter from a charger tip set I bought many years ago. Both cables work fine.
Also for the in-car charging you can use a GZ wall charger and a cheap 100 W inverter from Walmart ($10). Though you'd be wasting about 15-20 Watts of power. It (those 100 watts) may be too much for the car's alternator.
As of 6 mm 12V - what do you mean? 6 mm to the cigaret lighter socket you can buy at the GZ website. I did recently.

 

[martnH]

Bought a used Yeti 400 for $100 with no cables and without a charger.
I had to make two cords/adapters. One for the in-car charging and another one MC4 to 8 mm. Car charging was pretty simple. Used a cigaret lighter part from an old Y-splitter and cut an 8 mm cable from an aftermarket charger for Yeti 400 (was not working well). For the MC4 adapter I bought an MC4 to 6 mm male cable from GZ and I also found an 8 mm to 6 mm adapter from a charger tip set I bought many years ago. Both cables work fine.
Also for the in-car charging you can use a GZ wall charger and a cheap 100 W inverter from Walmart ($10). Though you'd be wasting about 15-20 Watts of power. It (those 100 watts) may be too much for the car's alternator.
As of 6 mm 12V - what do you mean? 6 mm to the cigaret lighter socket you can buy at the GZ website. I did recently.

Thanks

Yes the 6mm are all sold out in Australian GZ webstore....I just placed an order to have then shipped from US

I have a few question.....
So is there any way I can improved the charging for the yeti 400? Or its already pretty good? Is the onboard charger a dc-dc charger? Charging at 120w means less than 10amps.
I used both a relay style amd DC-DC dual battery system in my trucks before.. and I have seen charging current up to 100AMPs (relay) and 30AMPs with Dc-dc charger..

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[astroserg]

An OEM wall charger will charge at ~75 watts. From a 105 W solar panel I saw 80 Watts. So this is pretty good already (comparing to the 400 W capacity). If you try to use it from a car with an inverter, you're looking at about 100 W consumption from the car system. My car's AC power outlet can't handle it and shuts off. When I use a DC port then maximum power input I saw was about 45-50 W. I don't know why it does not go all the way to 75. I guess the Yeti detects big voltage drop and doesn't want to use too much power to protect car's battery/alternator. Though from the same DC port I was able to use a cheap 100+ Watt inverter just fine with 75 W input display on the Yeti.
Perhaps with other cars it could be better. Though I believe my Jeep GC has a good alternator.
Anyway I'm happy with the Yeti. Use it to run a 28L fridge, charge batteries and to connect a 12V LED light strip. Occasionally I charge my laptop.

 

[tbisaacs]

I've been experimenting with different tie down configurations with my non-lithium 400. The 4 bolts on the top and 8 bolts on the side of the case screw directly into the internal chassis. I picked up some longer hardware bolted on some tie downs:

It's not perfect yet, but promising. I'll likely get some smaller tie downs—these are overkill.

 

[martnH]

An OEM wall charger will charge at ~75 watts. From a 105 W solar panel I saw 80 Watts. So this is pretty good already (comparing to the 400 W capacity). If you try to use it from a car with an inverter, you're looking at about 100 W consumption from the car system. My car's AC power outlet can't handle it and shuts off. When I use a DC port then maximum power input I saw was about 45-50 W. I don't know why it does not go all the way to 75. I guess the Yeti detects big voltage drop and doesn't want to use too much power to protect car's battery/alternator. Though from the same DC port I was able to use a cheap 100+ Watt inverter just fine with 75 W input display on the Yeti.
Perhaps with other cars it could be better. Though I believe my Jeep GC has a good alternator.
Anyway I'm happy with the Yeti. Use it to run a 28L fridge, charge batteries and to connect a 12V LED light strip. Occasionally I charge my laptop.

Yes I have the same issue with in car charging as well.
I am thinking of charging the yeti via the chain port( Anderson plugs) by a voltage sensing relay or simply ignition-on relay.....

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[martnH]

Just bought myself a goal zero 8mm to Anderson plug (normal grey one) adapter

Cost is eye watering at $70......


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[martnH]

This maybe a good solution to in car charging for the yeti

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[martnH]

Just to contribute to the database here

So I think the yeti has dc-dc charger on-board and also it is sensitive to voltage,meaning it will not draw power of the car is not running. I am not sure what the threshold voltages are

I use the 50amps Anderson plug to adapt it.the Charing power is 140watts if vehicle is running, and zero if the vehicle is not running.

So my plan is to plug it in car 100% and connect up the solar when parked.

Cheers
Martin

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