Good Solar gen Power Stations for DC and light AC Truck Campers

[Hodor]

Dave! Thanks for posting all this research, it's amazing we have the ability to communicate our findings in open forum like this because you just saved me so much friggin time buddy. Many thanks to you.

I'm looking at the mega 3 and 2x240 solar panels for my 6.5' Silverado Hardsider build. Vs the mega 2 is looks like having the additional Watt hours can be beneficial here in the pnw where I might camp under the trees for several days. I plan to eventually ad a dc-dc charger and 2 more lifepo batteries mounted in frame to extend capabilities but that will be flatbed time down the road a ways. There is a big sea of new tech and newer companies to wade through in researching here and I'm super grateful this info has been shared!

 

[royston.vasey]

Thanks for directing me to your thread Dave, great info, now I know a lot more about solar generators! The oupes and the pecron are not available in the UK ( we get more like a 3rd world country every day) so will be looking at the others- also like the look of the module in the video- also not in uk , but have found a similar one by licitti

 

[MiamiC70]

Maaaybe....
Goal Zero Yeti 1500x
Negatives
1. The huge negative: older Lithium Ion chemistry. Can only do 500 charge cycles, vs. 3000 plus for LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate). Is also thez battery type that can have runaway thermal issues and burst into flame if damaged or charged incorrectly, while Lifepo4 is completely safe.
2. Expensive, and you're buying old tech that lasts 1/6th the time of competition. $1300 vs $800 for same capacity lifepo4 system from Pecron, thats a lot of $$ for a name...

I don't want to buy something I can only use 500 times then throw away, at the same price for a safer one I can use 3000-6000 times!

Positives:
1. This has lots of great ports, inputs and outputs, great 30A 12v dc port, 2x dc input ports for solar or car or charing from a 120v brick charger.
2. Heavily leans towards dc output vs 120v ac, which is what you want for a truck camper. Has a ton of good amperage outputs:

• 2x 6mm: 120W Max (12V, up to 10A), regulated
• 1x Car Port: 160W Max (12V, up to 13A), regulated
• 2x High Power Port: 360W Max (12V, up to 30A), regulated; Front face & under lid

3. Company name and longevity-- established company, look likely to be around if you need warranty support, unlike many of the cheaper options. But at $1300 vs $800 for same capacity lifepo4 system from Pecron, thats a lot of $$ for a name...

Yeti 1500X

New Lower Price! The Goal Zero Yeti 1500X is one of our best-selling large portable power stations. It provides an ideal 1,516 Watt Hours for any project, indoors or out. Powerful enough to backup home circuits, but portable enough to take to the job site or integrate into a van build.

www.goalzero.com

Seems like they are updating their power stations to LiFePo4 with recent albeit smaller units. It is kind of ridiculous that in 2024 Goal Zero has not fully updated line especially, given their “lofty” opinions of their priced reflected in pricing.

 

[Dave in AZ]

Growatt infinity 2000.
Looks decent for truck camping as it has a 30A 12v Anderson PowerPole port. Would let you run a fusebox well. Additionally, the DC system can be left on and it uses up no power doing so.
Also has a 30A 120v RV outlet.

Reviewed positively by Hobotech here:

Reviewed negatively by Will Prowse here:

The main thing Will Prowse disliked is the expansion battery xt60 port, and 60v max solar input. After watching his complaints, I feel that If you don't use the expansion battery, or the app which seems not required, this would work decently for truck camper.

 

[Slacker23]

Question about power stations that have an Anderson DC 30A output feature (like the Pecron, Oupes): rather than run this to a fuse panel and then run lines out from that for fans, heater, etc couldn’t you just get an Anderson splitter that can tie in 2 or 3 devices directly into the DC Anderson port? Trying to simplify and not at all savvy about this stuff, and getting my new Tune camper set up for road trips. Appreciate the great feedback that Dave In AZ provides everyone, especially Tune owners, and am going to pull the trigger on either the Pecron 1500 or Oupes Mega 2 soon based on his detailed reviews.

 

[Dave in AZ]

Question about power stations that have an Anderson DC 30A output feature (like the Pecron, Oupes): rather than run this to a fuse panel and then run lines out from that for fans, heater, etc couldn’t you just get an Anderson splitter that can tie in 2 or 3 devices directly into the DC Anderson port? Trying to simplify and not at all savvy about this stuff, and getting my new Tune camper set up for road trips. Appreciate the great feedback that Dave In AZ provides everyone, especially Tune owners, and am going to pull the trigger on either the Pecron 1500 or Oupes Mega 2 soon based on his detailed reviews.

Thx much You could get a splitter. Probably cost just as much, $30 or so. The reason you get the fusebox is this: Wire runs should be protected by a current interrupt device, either a fuse or circuit breaker. It is electrical safety 101. By the nature of a power station, folks are thinking to just plug things right into it, I know. But it's a bit like having a kitchen at work all plugged into an extension cord and duct taped together... sure, someone will do it, but it would never ever pass any legit safety inspection.

Story: I didn't believe it was much risk either. But, now I do... 1 man duck kayak. 12v AGM battery to trolling motor, with supplied 6AWG wires. BUT WIRES CAME WITHOUT FUSE, and I screwed their spades right to battery. Pushed kayak up against shore in a bush, the on/off trolling motor handle got twisted to on, but prop was blocked from turning. Motor pulled massive current trying to turn. Within 1 minute while I had back turned, the large 6AWG wires melted, insulation caught fire. Lead battery terminals melted into bottom of plastic boat. Large flames and sparks burst out of 3 ft wires and trolling motor and caught bush on fire. Whole back of boat with camo netting and camo leaves caught fire. Only the fact I was standing in a river let me put it out. Had I been sleeping in there I would have died.

Consider how these points combine:
1. Wires get hot when a lot of current flows through them, they will melt and catch fire, and burn your truck to the ground... and anyone trapped in there trying to open those locking doors from the inside!
2. All wire runs are supposed to be protected, preferably near current source, with a fuse no more than 120% of the wire rating, rounded up to next available fuse size. So if the wire is rated at 10A, a 15A fuse.
3. 30A dc is absolutely enough current to catch a small wire on fire. And both a power station or 12v battery can do it.
4. What protection is built into the power station? 30A port is probably limited to 30A, 380W... probably. But will it allow 100A for 10 sec? Maybe? Imagine the wire element of a 40W lightbulb, totally a good fire-starter!
5. A truck camper or RV is the highest threat, riskiest wiring you can possibly have, worse than a boat. Wires are jerry rigged, shoved into cracks out of way, ziptied together with improper insulation wear protections. Wires are in contact with metal camper shell all over. Truck is bouncing and flexing, pulling and wearing on wires. Water incursions are common, as well as massive inside condensation while sleeping, wetness assured. It is not a question of IF you will rub a wire insulation off and get a short circuit somewhere, it is WHEN.
6. When a bare spot or rub on a wire short circuits, you can get the max current flow the battery or source can do. What size wires does your 30A splitter setup supply? Can the fan wires do 30A?--no. Can the Tune lighting wires do 30A?--no. Can the chinese diesel heater wires do 30A?--no, you're lucky if they can do the needed 10A to startup! Do you know what all the wires in your camper can support, what gauge they are, do you trust them to actually meet specs?--no, it's usually smallest possible wire from China, unrated or labeled, probably aluminum copper clad, insulation temperature ratings are not labeled or known...
7. I have 20 electrical things I bought on Amazon for my camper, I have zero idea what the wires are for most of them! On/off toggles, dimmer switches, led power cords, etc. But I DO know the device power ratings, and CAN calculate a fuse for it and the supply wire.
8. Using a dc fusebox, you can safely feed it from 30A power station port, and then have a fuse for each small, crappy, device supply wire. 5A for the fan, 15A for the diesel heater, 10A for the lights, 10A for 12v dc blanket, 10A for your USB-C laptop port near bed, etc. NOW WHEN THAT WIRE RUBS THROUGH AND SHORT CIRCUITS ON CAMPER, THE FUSE BLOWS before wire melts and catches fire!
9. Think of all the electrical codes for your house wiring. Think of all the fire codes for room escape. Almost all of those are being violated in your truck camper. Those things can and do catch fire and burn up all the time. Here is a video I made showing correct wiring setup for a truck camper, whether supplied by a 2nd battery or a power station: Hope this is helpful!

 

[Dave in AZ]

Question about power stations that have an Anderson DC 30A output feature (like the Pecron, Oupes): rather than run this to a fuse panel and then run lines out from that for fans, heater, etc couldn’t you just get an Anderson splitter that can tie in 2 or 3 devices directly into the DC Anderson port? Trying to simplify and not at all savvy about this stuff, and getting my new Tune camper set up for road trips. Appreciate the great feedback that Dave In AZ provides everyone, especially Tune owners, and am going to pull the trigger on either the Pecron 1500 or Oupes Mega 2 soon based on his detailed reviews.

P.s., there are other ways to do it. You COULD use a splitter, then individually fuse each wire run with appropriate fuse. In the video title picture, you can see in lower right that the Vevor diesel heater actually comes with its own wire fuse, so like that. And it's possible various devices have their own overcurrent protection... but it's a lot of knowledge and checking, and a more jerry rigged setup, and harder to find fuses when they blow. And those are sized to protect device, not the wire, if you run own wires. But it's possible.

 

[Slacker23]

P.s., there are other ways to do it. You COULD use a splitter, then individually fuse each wire run with appropriate fuse. In the video title picture, you can see in lower right that the Vevor diesel heater actually comes with its own wire fuse, so like that. And it's possible various devices have their own overcurrent protection... but it's a lot of knowledge and checking, and a more jerry rigged setup, and harder to find fuses when they blow. And those are sized to protect device, not the wire, if you run own wires. But it's possible.

Got it, makes perfect sense when explained this way, especially your kitchen scenario. Even for someone like me who isn't savvy about this stuff I fully understand your points. A fuse panel it is, and your attached video I've seen so that has been very helpful. Thank you.

 

[Marine359]

I’m a big-time advocate of Dave’s recommendation to install a dc fuse block. Not doing so invites complexity, confusion and possibly danger. JMO, but I’m also a strong advocate of installing bus bars. Bus bars reduce complexity, and gives the entire rig a common path to ground. Additionally with fuse block and bus bars installed, you’re not limited to the maximum dc output of a powerstation. You can easily add a LiFePo4 and connect it to the bus bar. Even a small/cheap LiFePo4 can output 100 amps dc. From bus bar, route a cable to positive side of fuse block. Negative side of fuse block to negative bus bar, which is wired to chassis ground. In summary, for a few extra bucks you’ll have all the flexibility you could want to modify, upgrade, or change your electrical system components.

 

[Dave in AZ]

@Marine359 all good points! I'm kind of using a powerstation, plus 100Ah Lifepo4 12v battery as extender. I just trickle charge station from battery via it's mppt if needed. Just a lot lighter than my 3072Wh Pecron extension battery, and so far on 3 and 4 day trips I rarely even need the Lifepo4.

 

[jaywo]

So what’s the best station to get now? The pecron solar input at 30-90V is not ideal because it will require solar panels to be in series to be optimal. Series is not great with shading we encounter when camping.

 

[Dave in AZ]

So what’s the best station to get now? The pecron solar input at 30-90V is not ideal because it will require solar panels to be in series to be optimal. Series is not great with shading we encounter when camping.

Doesn't require series, just requires that you buy a panel with 37V output or so.

 

[jaywo]

Doesn't require series, just requires that you buy a panel with 37V output or so.

Most panels are below that and It’s not ideal to be right above the minimum voltage because in the morning and evening you could be below the minimum voltage and not charge at all.

Yeti got it right with the new Pro 4000. 14-150V 50A solar input up to 3000w. Serious spec right there. Why did they only release a 500, 700 and 4000 with the new tech is weird. Give us a 2-3000 with a wide range of voltage input and 30A DC output!

 

[Marine359]

IMHO, yeti 4000 is a ton of money for a need that can be met for 1/2 the price. Pick a powerstation that will give you enough ac output (like 2,400w), then decide if the total capacity is sufficient to meet both your ac and dc needs. If it is enough, and you’re gonna go with just the powerstation with no expansion, pick one that has a high amperage dc output. That eliminates some of the very good brands like my Ecoflow Delta 2 Max, which has only 10 amps dc output. Most people will want at least 30 amps dc. I think Pecron 1500 has 30, as does Bluetti 200 Max. However, if You want to add capacity, it is way way way less expensive to just add on a LiFePo4 battery, and dump power from it into your powerstation when needed. Having a LFP on board, even if it’s only 100ah, solves the low dc output of the powerstations that can only output 10 amps dc. I picked up a 280ah (3,584wh) smart self-heating Chins for only $600. That’s like twice the capacity of an expansion battery at half the price. since The LFP is 12.8v, you can dump watts from it into your powerstation at 100w, or better, add a cheap boost converter to up the voltage to 24v. I’m using a LiTime ac/dc charger for my Chins, run by my truck ac outlet, and a Pecron dc to dc charger for my powerstation. I can also use the Pecron charger as a boost converter by switching its cable from the alternator to a cable connected to the LFP. Almost 6kWh total, and it all works great. Like I said, way way way less dough than high capacity powerstation or powerstation with expansion battery.

 

[Dave in AZ]

@Marine359 everything in your post is good wisdom! Particularly these points:
1. Pick station first based on it having sufficient AC output. For me, this is 2000W min, as most all decent induction run 1800W, as well as electric kettles etc.
2. A 12.8V Lifepo4 battery i.e. LFP, is a much cheaper expansion and can be had in tons of size/weight/Watt-hrs choices.
3. A power station without a good 12v DC supply, say one with just 10A output, can be made fully workable with a small 12V LFP in the system, particularly useful for folks that have issues driving a Chinese diesel heater from their power station.